Feb 25 2015

From Coñaripe to San Martin de los Andes

We had a great dinner last night, beside our tent – back to our tuna and chips and it was delicious. Sitting outside, under a starry sky is one of my greatest pleasures – I am happy. Tomorrow will be a longish day, with a border crossing, so we had better get some sleep…

Sleep? What sleep?!… It is the last week of the summer holidays and the partying at the beach beside our Rucahue campground goes on until 4am… Bad choice on my part…

Today as we leave Coñaripe, it is partly cloudy so we think it will be a perfect riding temperature for us on our way to San Martin de los Andes, 250kms away. We head back towards Villarrica and Pucon, by which time the sky cleared. Once again I admire the lush variety of trees and foliage and the hydrangeas that line the road. It is the end of the season for hydrangeas here but we are lucky to still see massive hedges of them. Another treat is that Villarrica volcano is gently smoking today.

Villarrica volcano is definitely smoking today

Enjoying the gorgeous scenery, lush and varied foliage and more volcanos

Leaving Pucón and smoking Villarrica behind us as we head towards Chile

As we head towards the border along route 199CH, the Pucon-Curarrehue road, the traffic gradually dies out. I am amazed how every single little bridge in Chile is named. Our road runs along the snaky Rio Trancura and leads us to the Mamuil Mamal national park. We pass some interesting looking churches – you could be in Austria or Germany. We have definitely felt the German influence in Villarrica and Pucon, from the numerous German immigrants. From the local Chilean beer advertisements on the roadside billboards with ladies dressed in lederhosen to restaurants selling bratwurst and spetzle. Apparently, Patagonia resisted Spanish and then Chilean and Argentinian settlement but national pride and competition between Chile and Argentinia in the mid 19th century fuelled immigration push from Welsh and Scottish settlers for their sheep and wool in Argentinia, and from Europeans, mostly German settlers in Chile.

After 2.5 hours, we get to the dirt road I had been expecting as I had seen photos of this stretch of road taken back in December, then suddenly a newly tarred section. This is glorious and totally unexpected. Then back to dirt and road works. They have very kindly wet the road to keep the amount of dust down. The scenery is stunning and I am loving this gorgeous ride.

The road to the border follows Rio Trancura

Then the biggest surprise, the road is tarred again. We are now in the vicinity of Lanin Volcano. The sight of the monkey puzzle trees and the snow clad volcano is magical. We stop to enjoy it – the photos do not do justice to the area but the sight and feel of the area will remain with me.

Volcán Lanin

Paso Mamuil Malal-Curarrehue has just been tarred – so glad they kept this tree

Volcán Lanin and monkey puzzle trees

Monkey puzzle trees in Lanin National Park

The Chilean border post is built to cater for snowy conditions. We park under cover and proceed to the customs and immigration counters inside this large building. In the queue, we meet our first biker, Heindrich from Munich who has just started a 12 month tour of South America on his own and like us is headed for San Martin de los Andes today. The border process is easy and very quick considering there are 30 people in front of us.

Mamuil Malal Chilean border crossing

An hour later and we are off and greeted with a welcome sign and gravel road. The forest of monkey puzzle trees is fantastic. After a 10′ ride, we arrive at the Argentinian border post. A very different set up, small building, a couple of counters to go to for immigration and bike papers and we are good to go. We went through the 2 border posts in under 2 hours.

Argentinian border post at Mamuil Mamal

It is about 120kms to San Martin de los Andes, via Junin de los Andes. Shortly after leaving the border post, we get our first taste of ripio, corrugated gravel road. It is a little unnerving at first but thankfully only lasts about 20kms. I will have to build up my confidence on this surface though…(the photo I take while riding is on the smoother part)

After we leave the Lanin national park and its monkey puzzle trees, the scenery changes dramatically. We are still surrounded by mountains, but gentle, rounded and imposing mountain ranges. It is farmland here and a really enjoyable ride on Ruta 40.

Ruta 40 south towards San Martin de los Andes

An hour and 3/4 later, we are in San Martin de los Andes. We stop at the first hotel we see in town, but it is ridiculously expensive. We continue our ride around town, spot and try another and it will do for the night. It also has underground parking which perfect, albeit down an extremely steep short ramp to a gravel floor cellar. On our ride looking for a hotel, I spot an Argentinian steak house, just 2 blocks away. We are ready for a good feed tonight!! We choose a small 350g steak with malbec jus. Delicious.

Searching for a place to spend the night at San Martin de los Andes

San Martin de los Andes is a very pleasant little town, on the edge of Lake Lácar. A road sign with distances to various cities around the world reminds us how far we are from family and friends but also how far we have travelled.

Anne

Feb 24 2015

Chile’s Lake District

We are finally “back on the road again”, something Anne sings from time to time when she is happy to be back on the motorbike. We spend two half days riding down ‘Route 5’ which is the main dual highway road spine of Chile. Easy riding, but the tolls every 50km or so are a pain to pay the 1400 pesos for two bikes – fumbling with notes and coins in gloves is not the easiest. I have resorted to small envelopes pre-packed with one 1000 peso note and four 100 peso coins. Apart from this minor irritant, weather is good, not too hot, traffic is light and follows road rules, something we have not been used to for quite a while. Our first destination is Talca, a town some 250km south of Santiago, we overnight and then push on to Temuco, our jumping off point for the Chilean Lake District, our first area to explore in our southward meander. Temuco has an unusual statue in the town’s main square which is dedicated to all the peoples, including indigenous Mapuche, who contributed to the area’s development.

Monumento a la Araucania, Plaza de Armas, Temuco

We are slowly adjusting to the the local timings, such as late breakfast, lunch and dinner. Here this pizza restaurant was open at 7pm, with one member of staff when we arrived, we were the only customers. I think we had finished dinner before all the staff arrived!

The backdrop to the main counter at Lola restaurant, Temuco, Chile

Thinking of the Cab Sav we are about to enjoy.

In Temuco, we visit the railway museum, which while they have retained some impressive buildings such as the coaling tower and roundhouse for locomotives, the level of carriage and engine maintenance is non existent with rusty coaches and deteriorating steam engines, a pity really as it could be a wonderful historic tourist attraction. We travelled parallel to a railway line down route 5 and while bridges and other infastructure appeared intact the track, catenary and signalling had a disused air about it, plus we saw no trains running. It appears some sections are no longer in use, probably due to the highway running parallel to the railway offering faster transportation options for people and goods.

Steam crane and coaling station at the railway museum, Temuco

Museo Nacional Ferroviario at Temuco, Engine Roundhouse

We turn west heading for lago or lake Villarrica, traffic is heavy coming back as it is the end of the school holidays, every property we pass seems to offer Cabañas or camping of various quality. As we start to skirt the lake, we get our first glimpse of Mt Villarrica as we head towards Pucón.

Our first glimpse of Villarrica volcano, Chile

Mt Villarrica dominates that landscape at 2,840m with a wisp of smoke coming from the top, we understand that the last volcanic activity started in December 2014 and has not finished yet! Each day at 12:00 they test the emergency alarm, which covers volcanic eruptions, earthquakes and tsunamis on the coast. Warning signs give evacuation routes for the volcanic activity, we will be happy to avoid such potential excitement.

This sign was found in many places we went to in Chile

Pucón is a charming, if somewhat touristy, village at the eastern edge of Lake Villarrica under the watchful gaze of Mt Villarrica, seems everything is named after the volcano. We spend a relaxing afternoon and enjoy the long summer twilight, which lasts till about 9:30pm even at this time of the year.

In Pucón with Villarrica volcano in the background

South brings us to lake Calafquen in search of hot springs, mentionned in other travel blogs which can be a good source of current information. Our chosen hot springs destination is Termas Geometricas some 20 kilometers towards the Villarrica volcano, which I presume is the source of the warming waters. This beautifully developed hot springs is laid out above the stream that cuts through a verdant green gorge. We spend a relaxing afternoon testing various pools, which range between 36 and 45 degrees (and make us wonder how hot a couple of pools closed for being too hot were) and take a walk in the forest above the hot springs before returning to our campground in Coñaripe, on the edge of Calafquen lake.

Termas Geometricas, Coñaripe

Wildlife spotted at Termas Geometricas, Coñaripe, Chile

Enjoying a soak in one of the many pools at Termas Geometricas, Coñaripe, Chile

Small lizard spotted during our forest walk

Termas Geometricas viewed from our forest walk

Anne is excited at camping again.

Anthony

Feb 20 2015

Breaking out of the bubble…..

As we descended into Santiago last week, I gazed out of the window contemplating how being in an aeroplane seeing the world laid out below me, but not feeling part of it, is a little like being in a bubble. Since we left Streak and Storm in Kuala Lumpur at the end of 2014, it has seemed we have been separated from our world of Adventure Riding, enjoyable as that has been both back in Australia and here in Santiago, we are only half way around the world and the desire to complete the journey and keep our loyal followers sated with new and interesting blog entries, we are keen start travelling again.

Anne has provided an excellent and detailed blog on our stay in Santiago and the surrounds, plus the generosity of Carlos and Jessica, and I can only say I concur wholeheartedly with her views and wish to add my appreciation of the city and its people. As the following photo shows, last night we have been well insulated in our bubble from the rigours of motorcycle travel.

Adventure riding in Santiago!

As we are packing the bikes to depart Santiago, a well dressed elderly couple sit watching us, what are they discussing? Something they would like to have done in their youth or reflecting on a trip they once did like us, we will never know, but it makes me think that we all have memories and dreams and I believe we should try as far as possible in our lives to turn the latter into the former.

We are packed and ready to leave Santiago

We set off, out of Santiago heading south, “Al Sur” the signs say. The weather is fine and the road dual highway, within a hour or so, they skies become dark grey, jagged lightening slashes across the sky, thunder rumbles and rain pelts down soaking our dry weather gloves, so we slow to 100km per hour, Yes the bubble has broken, and we are loving it!

– Anthony

Feb 14 2015

The bikes’ arrival into Santiago

Our bikes’ crating in Singapore and shipping to South America certainly tested our resolve!! We wanted to deal with an airline directly but all the ones we contacted were non-responsive, so we found agents. We haven’t mentioned that Anthony booked a return flight to Singapore in January to sort out the crating of the bikes. While the agent we dealt with in Singapore at Penanshin Air Express was extremely effecicient and kept us informed every step of the way, the people they used to crate the bikes had no concept of air freighting costs and minimising crate size, even though we’d sent them photos and dimensions of our crates from Dubai to Delhi and despite several phone calls. Yes, it was going to be cheaper to fly to Singapore and back and pay for accommodation there than go with the crate they built originally. It was only on the actual day of Anthony’s flight, after our agent went to the airport to see the bikes and crates for herself and finally came back with acceptable measurements of a new crate, that we cancelled the tickets.

The agents in Chile, from The SeaFair Group, were also very responsive and helpful. But they too dealt with another 3rd party – this time the air freighters and because there were no direct cargo flights from Singapore to Santiago, we had the added bonus of airline change enroute. Yes, that means more trouble – more handling, more charges and especially more potential for missing connections. Anyway, we were given so many arrival dates: the day of our own arrival, that changed to Friday, then to Saturday night, then to Monday because the bikes had missed a connection supposedly, then suddenly this morning, we get a call to say that the bikes had arrived overnight!!!! And we can come today to get them out. Being Saturday, will there be any additional costs?! We are told not. So off we head to the airport.

We are prepared for anything after our Delhi experience… Remember, it took us 3 full days of daily visits to the airport and outrageous fees to clear customs and get the bikes out of the warehouse. Well here, from arrival at the cargo area at 11.30am, to clearing customs, to getting the crates taken out of the warehouse, unpacking the bikes from their very solid crates, to reassembling the bikes and riding out of the Cargo terminal area: 3.5 hours!!!!!!!! The agent here was fantastic, he had all the paperwork required and it was a breeze. No special overtime, holiday or whatever extra payments, just a warehouse fee, which turned out to be cheaper than what we had been quoted. And no mad swarms of people and trucks as it was Saturday.

So yes, we have our bikes back!!!!!!

Cargo warehouse – Santiago

Hans sorting out the warehouse paperwork (and fee!) – Santiago Cargo warehouse

The crates they built for us were solid!!! Lucky the guys at the terminal had massive crow bars and hammers to lend us and our agent had brought some over with him too, so the 3 of us set about dismantling the crate. Looking at the state of boxes on the truck in the background, we are grateful our crates were that solid!!

Here comes Storm – Santiago Cargo warehouse

Anthony does the hard work to loosen the many nails – Santiago

Anne pulls the loosened nails out – Santiago

The crates are solid

Streak is well packaged

Anne reassembling her Rox risers and handlebars – Santiago

With the dismantled crates carefully pilled up in the corner and the bikes reassembled, we are ready to leave the Cargo area.

We are reassembled and ready to leave Santiago Cargo warehouse in record time!!

Santiago here we come!

We would definitely recommend both Penanshin Air Express and The SeaFair Group.

For some reason, Storm had just under half a tank of fuel still while Streak was empty (as Storm should have been) so first stop at the Shell petrol station at the airport then time to head into Santiago city centre where we are staying for 4 nights. The Saturday traffic is light and easy.

The security guy at the apartment block we are staying at agrees to let us park the bikes in the underground car park, for a made up fee of course, but not too outragious and so much more convenient and safer than going to a public car park. Had this been India or anywhere in Asia, the lovely great porch area of the apartment block would have been jammed with at least 20 bikes!! Not here though.

Going back in time a little, we were invited out for dinner Friday to a friend of a friend’s. We had actually met in Brisbane at a friend’s place a couple of years ago but didn’t know him very well. Anyway, we were treated to a fabulous barbecue and family dinner at their home. Such lovely people. And great for us to get a taste of local life.

Our wonderful hosts Carlos, Jessica and Sebastian – Santiago, Chile

Monday, we go to the Santiago BMW dealer. Let’s hope that they are more helpful than their lack of email response seem to indicate….

In the meantime, time for some Santiago exploring.

Anne

Feb 11 2015

The Great Gig in the Sky

Here I am, 8 hours into our 12 hour flight to Santiago, listening to Pink Floyd’s The Dark Side of the Moon album, right now The Great Gig in the Sky track while Anthony sleeps soundly beside me. Flying has always brought such extreme emotions for me: I can’t excited about any upcoming trip because I dread flying so much. Then once up there, emotions get even more raw – I have often wondered whether the depleted oxygen is the cause… My deep love for Anthony, my admiration for nature’s sheer beauty as I look out of the window once we are up at cruising altitude, my aching heart for my beloved brother whom I miss every single day. Movies can make me laugh out loud or make me sob, right now it’s the latter as I listen to this great album which my brother and I used to listen to and which Anthony and I often listen to with a good friend of ours on his fabulous stereo system. What a fabulous sunrise – somewhat psychedelic I think!!

On our way to Santiago on a direct flight from Sydney

The midnight sky over Antarctica

Sunrise as we head towards Santiago

After 6 weeks of luxury at home, I am really looking forward to being out in the elements again. I had worried a little when we first got home on Boxing Day at how I would feel about being on the road again after being home, surrounded by familiar luxuries, good food and good friends. Will I still feel like packing our bags every morning, hand washing every other day?! It feels right though. Being surrounded by nature, meeting people on the road, experiencing different cultures, camping in the middle of nowhere, all our senses alive – that’s what we both love. I won’t lie, the hand washing does get tedious!!! And I’ll no doubt wish I had more off-road riding skills at times. But ever since we first flew over the Andes in 1988 when we visited Santiago on our way to Australia, we’ve both wanted to return and spend time in that part of the world and get a closer look at this mountain range. And here we are!! Nearly. As soon as Streak is fixed… I am so looking forward to exploring roads less travelled, enjoying the deafening silence of the open spaces and seeing all these mountains. I find mountains so awe inspiring…

Here’s hoping we don’t have a repeat of our Happy Delhi Days getting our bikes out of Santiago airport… Fingers crossed!!!

6 hours later… Our bikes have been delayed! Not arriving until Saturday now. Could be Happy Santiago Days!! Oh well, change of plans. Stay tuned 🙂

Anne

2slowspeeds

Loving life – Turning Dreams into Memories

Tag Archives: Santiago to UK 2015

From Coñaripe to San Martin de los Andes

Chile’s Lake District

Breaking out of the bubble…..

The bikes’ arrival into Santiago

The Great Gig in the Sky

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