Oct 10 2025

A week exploring the Thailand east coast

We left Chiang Mai knowing we will be back. But having spent quite some time now looking for somewhere quieter than where we are now, but still with water views and good walking, how come Chiang Mai which is a long way from the ocean has such a strong pull? We have seen our suburb of Manly transform from a quiet village feel 28 years ago to a place so overrun with day trippers every weekend that we avoid walking along the esplanade on a weekend. But we have never tired of the view we have and that is why finding a replacement has been tricky. We feel we need a view, preferably a water view and walking distance from good walking, and with a community sense. Chiang Mai is far from an obvious choice, or even understandable choice… apart from the good community feel.

We are looking forward to checking out a number of quieter places by the ocean. A quick flight from Chiang Mai to Phuket where we can pick up a one way car hire to drop off in Bangkok before we leave Thailand will enable us to visit a number of places along the way. With so much beautiful coastline, we had received far too many suggestions on where to look. Reluctantly we have filtered it down to coastal areas on the gulf of Thailand south of Khanom, south of Saphli, around Pak Nam Pran and east of Rayon. Wonderful tropical islands with minimal inhabitants and limited access to good medical facilities have been excluded.

When we were in southern Thailand in December 2014 on Streak and Storm, we did not visit Phuket due to its size and development back then, what is it like now? Anne fairly quickly gets the hang of driving here while I handle navigation. Taking a backroads route to our hotel at Choeng Thale gives us glimpses of many existing property developments interspersed with local businesses and native bush. There are signs and banners for new luxury townhouse developments being spruiked in English, Chinese and Russian, sometimes only Russian.

Our impression is that it is too busy and built up for us and we head north the next morning.

After leaving Phuket Island we follow Highway 4 North East driving on the same route that we rode almost 11 years ago, although I cannot recall any details. We are heading for Khanom. While there we also plan to catch up with Philippe, a friend and fellow motorcyclist from France who we met back in 2016 at the South African Horizons Unlimited event who is now living on the nearby Island of Ko Pha-ngan. En-route we stop for lunch and meet Ford. He is running his parents restaurant, working as an architect remotely and studying for a Masters in Town Planning, very impressive. You never know who you will meet on the road.

Ford shared his dreams of becoming a town planning architect

Ford’s father built this spirit house – the local carpet snake feeds on the offerings everyday

You would expect a place call “Le Petit St.Tropez” to be run by a French person but no it was Dutch. Being between seasons, we were the only occupants so a very quiet night was had. It was great to catch up with Philippe the next day for lunch. While it had been years since we last met, the conversation flowed as if we had only met recently. A great time was had. It would have been nice to have a couple more days but onward we must go.

We head to Thung Wua Laen Beach which one of our friends’ friend in Chiang Mai had recommended. Anne selects Clean Wave resort – what a find it turns out to be. We have a little bungalow across the road from the “resort’s” restaurant building. We soon meet the only non-thai there, chat with him to find out he is married to the resort’s owner. He is Swedish and has been working in Asia for 30 years and his wife used to be a hospital administrator – both a great source of information on the hospital scene and living in Thailand as an “expat”. This beach only has a handful of non-Thais, has a great feel, has fabulous coffee and seafood and is just a few kms south of the next little piece of paradise on the other side of Saphli.

Our breakfast view – Thung Wua Laen Beach south of Saphli

View towards Saphli and just beyond, where we are staying at Thung Wua Laen beach

Diagonal incision in the bark allows the milky latex to flow out

Lunch on another quiet beach, Bo Mao beach just north of Saphli

Wonderful family staff at Thale Thong Seafood restaurant, Bo Mao beach – 2 mothers and 2 daughters

The storm is building – Thung Wua Laen beach

We both book ourselves another massage before continuing our route north. They are so cheap here! AU$10 to $20 an hour. In Chiang Mai, we had a 2 hour massage for $20.

As the time of our return winds down, we both realise we are “full”. We end up south of Hua Hin which we have not planned to visit again following a visit there some years back being too busy and touristy. Time to make the most of a lovely swimming pool, a local seafood restaurant where we meet a long term expat and get more pieces to add to our puzzle.

Our last stop is Rayon to the east of Bangkok. We navigate across the toll roads around the city and arrive at our destination having driven past factories and other industrial facilities for a couple of hours. Why was this region suggested to us?

Next morning we head further east for 20km, turn off towards the sea and enter a different world. Beach to one side, local shops, a fresh fish market with the fishing boats drawn up behind each stall. This little strip at Rayong beach is completely different but close enough to hospital and other facilities we may need. There is an expat community which we meet at the Stay Cafe on Mae Ram Phueng Beach.

Hat Suan Son Seafood market – east of Rayong – select your seafood and take it to one of the local restaurants nearby for them to cook

Flower garlands often adorn trees to show respect to them as sacred

Every building has 2 miniature shrines – offerings are made to keep the spirits happy and benevolent

Archways depicting the king are found along major roads and at most village entrances/exits

This last couple of weeks in Thailand have not only increased our knowledge of the country as a potential retirement destination but just as importantly helped us get a better understanding of what we are looking for and how we might achieve that. Our thanks to all who gave of their time to enlighten us and while we have no timeframe the possibility of moving to Thailand one day and becoming part of a community there is a distinct possibility.

It has been a very enlightening visit and has given us plenty of food for thought. Time to head home now. Final stopover will be Manila for a couple of days.

– Anne & Anthony

Sep 30 2025

A week in Chiang Mai

A week has passed since we touched down in Bangkok, swapping the early chill of autumn in Finland for the sauna-like humidity and heat of Thailand. After a day and night of recovery in Bangkok, we headed to Chiang Mai to stay with our friends Micheal and Nuch.

We have always enjoyed Thailand, ever since our first visit here way back in 1986. The people, the culture, the scenery, the food have always attracted us to spend time here. As the years have rolled on, even we will have to think about retirement one day and the environment we wish live in. Reading of some of the changes the Thai Government has made to ease foreigners wishing to retire here, plus the positive experience we had back in December 2019 during our last visit, makes it worthwhile to try to obtain a understanding of living in Thailand.

So this blog entry will not feature the major temples and palaces, rivers, beaches and mountains but just a few thoughts on Thailand as a possible retirement destination. Ok not all work, I will have to try a few beaches, pools, massages and sunset drinks during our visit.

New security guards at Suvarnabhumi Airport?

Smart idea at Suvarnabhumi Airport set apart from security.

It’s still the rainy season in Chiang Mai

Michael and Nuch are so welcoming: we have our own guest cottage a short walk from their house which is situated near Nong Yaeng, north east of Chiang Mai. We had indicated that we wanted to get a feel for the area and they obliged by taking us to restaurants, coffee shops, markets, supermarkets and meeting some of their friends.

Nuch and Michael at Mae Kuang Udom Thara dam

Judith’s amazing gluten free chocolate and raspberry cake at her café “Simple Pleasures Café”

We even spend a morning visiting a local retirement facility. No, we are not moving in yet, but wanted to understand what does exist here as a long term option. The facility was acquired from local owners by a european group which will offer places to people from Europe. If one did not know better, you would think you were at a resort.

We felt a real sense of community amongst expats living in this area. This is something we consider important in where we might one day end up living.

To obtain a different perspective, we then relocated closer to the city. Staying at the Balcony hotel we had hoped to catch up with a couple who had relocated here recently but our timing coincided with their travels back to Australia but met others who had made the move to Chiang Mai and were now living at the Balcony. It also appears to be the base for other digital travellers who have an interest in motorcycling. Chiang Mai offers an amazing variety of riding, both on and off road including the famous 700km / 430 ml. long Mae Hong Song loop. We did not have any time to ride here on this trip, though we may have covered a small section back in 2014 en route to Laos. I will have to look at my GPS route on return to Australia.

Not quite sure how this got here? Great piloting?

We are lucky enough to spend a little time with Grace, who runs HiVolt. Off road riding is her speciality as well as exporting specialist parts for off road motorcycles. Interesting that here people ride small cc motorcycles, around 300cc when we are used to much larger engine displacements.

We bought the drink from this shop and drank it across the road

The only “sightseeing” we did in Chiang Mai was to visit Changthong Heritage Park – a 12 acre private botanical museum of ancient trees, beautifully curated by Mr Khun Chang over almost 20 years. It was wonderfully peaceful to meander through this park – and admire the vast selection of ancient trees, the moss paths and stunning waterfalls.

Spiral top coconut trees at Changthong Heritage Park

As our week in Chiang Mai drew to a close, we have to thank everyone who listened to our questions, offered their thoughts and generally gave us a very positive view of Chiang Mai and the people who live here.

Thanks Micheal and Nuch for a fantastic time in Chiang Mai

Next we head off south of Thailand to see whether a place by the ocean awaits us for a potential long term move.

– Anthony and Anne

Sep 21 2025

Barents to Baltic

Nordkaap, the most northerly point in Europe that one can easily access by road and a magnet for adventure motorcyclists heading to this part of Norway. Sadly we will not be able to join those other intrepid riders’ celebrations on the culmination or start of their journeys as we are in the comfort of four wheels.

Awaking in Honningsvåg, we are again blessed with better weather than forecast. Glimpses of blue sky and no rain as opposed to the grim cloud and rain all day on the app. A leisurely breakfast is interrupted by the blast of an arriving cruise ship horn, masses of tourists with the same destination as us: Nordkapp. Swiftly to the car and out of town heading across Magerøya Island. While appearing barren without a single tree to be seen, the landscape abounds with grasses, lichens and mosses in a carpet of woven greens, browns and reds. Climbing higher, we see Skipsfjorden and Tufjorden, both fjords, long fingers of water that have provided safe havens for ships in time of storms.

Standing near the Nordkapp Globus monument looking out over the calm Barents Sea, our timing could not be better: blue skies and sunshine – our luck continues. The obligatory photos are taken at the monument with the visitors giving each other time to get that memorable photo. Mist then envelops the building behind us and out of the mist, the cruise ship hordes eerily appear. Time to depart.

At the Globus looking over the Barents Sea

We return via the small fishing village of Skarsvåg. Here reindeer do wander the streets, a single coffee shop is open and we are the only visitors. The summer season is over and tourist related facilities are closing or have closed. Our hotel’s restaurant had closed for the season the night before we arrived.

One thing we have noticed, both in the open areas and forests away from the coast, is the absence of bird song – always very quiet. I do not know if it is the time of year or that few birds live this far north.

To leave Magerøya Island, one travels through a seven kilometre long tunnel that descends for three kilometres from each entrance at an angle of 9-10%. I will let you do the math on how deep that is. I am always watching for leaks! A sign warns of “Fog in Tunnel” and they are correct. Quite weird but I am sure there is science to explain that.

The road follows the shoreline of Norway’s fourth longest fiord, the Porsanger, which stretches for 123 km. / 76 ml. And it takes over an hour driving to leave the fiord and the Barents sea behind. The next sea we see, will be the Baltic, hence the title.

Anne has never visited Sweden and is one country behind me as I snuck in Qatar, which Anne had previously visited, on the way to Europe in April. Our route today allowed a crossing into Sweden for a new minutes on Swedish soil, so we are all square again. ( it does not count says Anne).

Overnight near the ski resort of Levi where we see last year’s ski slope snow piled up under white covers and will be used to form the foundation for this season’s ski slopes. This helps form a good base for the first snowfall of the season. I had read about this phenomenon but never seen it. Amazing how so much snow can last for the whole summer.

Ski run base all ready for the new season

At dinner as usual we see that many meals in Finland are both Lactose and Gluten Free, usually signified by an “L” & “G” on the description. Great for both of us.

Back to Rovaniemi the next morning where we started journey by road to the North. The night sleeper takes us back to Helsinki, but not quite as comfortably as I had hoped. I am looking forward to a good long massage when we get to Thailand.

Our train back to Helsinki courtesy of Santa

Our luxury overnight cabin with snacks and single malt whisky

Our train’s silhouette as the sun goes down.

Helsinki train station – with only the Ukrainian flag flying

An early arrival sees us at our Hilton Hotel, thanks to Diamond status, we are able check into our room by 7:30am! Membership of Hilton Honors does pay dividends.

We spend the morning as it rained sorting the contents of the four suitcases, three of which handily stayed at the hotel during our travels. A last trip in the afternoon to central Helsinki saw us wander amongst the food and produce stalls at the waterfront. One stall-holder kindly spent time explaining the different berries and mushrooms and how to use them in cooking even though we could purchase nothing. A last glimpse at the Baltic sea and we have completed Barents to Baltic.

Roberts Coffee in a converted Art Deco Bank building on Pohjoisesplanadi Helsinki

Art Deco work on Pohjoisesplanadi Helsinki

This fresh grilled fish outdoor stall looked delicious

Colourful street stall on Market Square Helsinki

Our time in Finland has come to an end. We have enjoyed our time immensely, seen and done more than we expected. We would like to return in winter to see the transformation the snow makes, but that will have to wait for another time. From the tranquility of the Finnish countryside, we are heading to the metropolis of Bangkok where the temperature will double and the sounds, smells and tastes of Asia will assail us – should be great.

– Anthony

Sep 17 2025

Sámi country

Well that is a hard act to follow – the northern lights performed as if on command for Anne, with a side showing for me. A real privilege to see such beauty dancing across the skies. But on we must…..

“The last day of summer today, then 10 months of winter”. We heard those chilling words from a local as we prepared to head further north into Lapland. We have the freedom and flexibly of a hire car for the next week and dual objectives, firstly to learn more about Sámi, the name of the indigenous people of Lapland, culture then secondly see the northern lights again. The second already achieved even though the weather forecasts seemed to rule this out.

Reindeer!! We see our first reindeer beside the road; so exciting. No place to stop so onward we go, more reindeer ahead and a place to pull over. Lots of photos, however the novelty wears off and we are now experienced reindeer viewers and ignore many sightings unless they are perfectly positioned for photos.

Young bucks learning to duel as autumn approaches

Our accommodation outside Inari is a beautiful log cabin at the Wilderness Hotel Inari, right on the water’s edge with stunning views over lake Inari. Our own log fire and sauna are included with enough firewood to keep us warm day and night. A clever combined match and fire-lighter make starting easy. A warm fire and a sauna, what a great combination, luckily the wrong season for rolling in the snow.

The rain has held off again and we walked to Inari, the colours of autumn are all around us, further north we travelled we have found more and more silver birch leaves have turned yellow.

SIIDA is the Sámi Museum and Northern Lapland Nature Centre in Inari which has interesting and informative displays on Lapland, plus outdoors there are number of buildings that have been brought to site. They have also recreated a number animal traps showing both ingenuity and engineering skills.

Outdoor Sámi display of traditional houses

A tour of the Sámi Parliament was both informative and interesting to see how an indigenous culture interacts with national government. Similar Sámi parliaments exist in Norway and Sweden. Less is known about interactions within Russia. We learned there are five Sámi sub groups and three Sámi languages, Northern Sámi, Skolt Sámi and Inari Sámi. All three languages can be used in the Finnish Sámi Parliament. The full Parliament meets four times a year and provides advice to and negotiates with the Finnish government of affairs that impact the Sámi people.

Inside Sajos, the Sámi Parliament chamber with relief artwork “Eatnu-Eadni-Eana” (Stream-Mother-Ground) by Outi Piesk

Traditional Sámi handicraft of reindeer antler bones, tin wire and bead embroidery

A series of paintings quite cleverly in some cases indicated the dos and don’ts of tourism as it pertains to Sámi culture.

Sustainable tourism vs careless tourism.

AI and dog sledding. Now here is an interesting combination. When I searched Google for “were dog sleds ever used in Lapland”, AI gives me this:

Google AI overview. “Yes, dogs sleds were historically a crucial form of transportation for hunting and travel in Lapland, and remain a popular cultural activity and tourist attraction today. This centuries-old tradition was a primary way for the Sami people, the indigenous inhabitants of the region, and others to navigate the vast, snowy landscapes of the Arctic”

Sadly this is incorrect: we learned during our tour of the Sámi Parliament in Inari that Sámi used reindeer dogs for herding, but not huskies. Reindeer were used to haul loads. Sled dogs, used by eskimos in North America, are a relatively recent introduction boosted by foreign tourism and not always done to the benefit of locals or the dogs. The proliferation of such tourist organisations and descriptive websites using borrowed traditions likely leads to this not unreasonable conclusion by Google AI. How much other information we are presented with by AI could have evolved by similar means? I will try to follow up with Google on this, supposedly there is a way to do this.

The proliferation of these dogs also has the potential to interfere with the reindeer herders’ livelihood we were told.

After Inari we still had three and a half days of car hire left. Where to go? After pouring over maps, comparing options, further north it is – how far, we are dependant on the weather, and yes rain is forecast again.

Once again, we are lucky with the weather and cross into Norway. We have decided to go all the way to Nordkapp or North Cape as we call it. We make good progress, just an initial challenge is the lack a centreline on many Norwegian main roads, just edging dashes causing a few interesting moments as we adjusted to this with oncoming motorhomes or trucks. As we head northwards the trees gradually give way to open landscape and stunning views.

No centre line, but two lanes wide, just.

Nordkapp awaits for us tomorrow.

– Anthony

Sep 15 2025

Tulikettu

A popular Finnish myth tells of a magical arctic firefox (“tulikettu” in Finnish) with a large furry tail that would sweep across the Arctic fells and tundra, creating sparks that lit up the sky or “fire foxes” which the northern lights are known as in Finland.

For anyone who has had the priviledge of seeing the Aurora Borealis (or the Aurora Australis in the southern hemisphere), you can imagine that sweeping tail. The aurora seems to be dancing above your head, all around you.

The aurora is best seen at night from autumn to spring but is never guaranteed. You can get a clear night, but the geomagnetic fluctuations (measured by a magnetometer over a 3 hour period and rated as KP index from 0 to 9 with 9 representing the most intense geomagnetic storm) are not sufficient to create the northern lights. The Kp-Index – derived from the German “Planetarische Kennziffer meaning “Planetary Index” – is a measure of geomagnetic activity in the Earth’s atmosphere. Similarly, you could have the perfect conditions, with a high KP index rating but have an overcast night and you won’t get to see the lights.

We are staying in a log cabin on the edge of a lake for 3 nights just outside Inari, really hoping we get to see the northern lights but the weather forecast is not looking good.

Still, fingers crossed…. Inari is pinned on my Aurora app, showing the forecast % cloud cover by the hour and KP index for the next 24 hours. Using that app and AccuWeather to see the actual cloud cover and rain movements, my alarm clock is set for 10pm when the rain clouds are meant to clear, 3am and 4am when a KP index of 5 is forecast!

After an unexpected beautiful clear day, the massive rain front coming up from the south is making its way up to us very fast and suddenly, the sky is completely overcast. Not looking good for a sky show later tonighth. Oh well, time for a sauna then.

Looking the other way: the weather from the south is getting to us

The predicted rain arrives on cue, still raining as 10pm approaches. Ever the optimist, I walk outside just after 10pm – the stars are visible!! There are some clouds still. Clouds? No, clouds don’t move so fast and eratically. It is a faint aurora! Anthony has to see this. By the time we are both outside, the aurora colours are clearly visible through the phone even if not strong to the naked eye. And the sky is dancing!

What a show we get.

An hour later, we call it a day and decide to catch some sleep before 3am. The activity is much stronger and the aurora is moving quite fast, making it very difficult to capture on our mobile phones – these blurry photos do not justice to what nature put on for us that night.

By 4am, the sky was overcast but the KP index strong enough to show the strong aurora activity. What would have the sky looked like without that cloud cover!

Nature has a way of making you feel insignificant and grateful to be alive to witness such beauty.

– Anne

2slowspeeds

Loving life – Turning Dreams into Memories

A week exploring the Thailand east coast

A week in Chiang Mai

Barents to Baltic

Sámi country

Tulikettu

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