To the top of Denmark in three days

Phew, that was some week!  Filled with highs and lows and not at all what we were expecting or had planned on. As I sit writing this in our motel in Hirtshals in Denmark, so much seems to have happened in such a short space of time, probably best to start where I left off in the last blog.

Finally ready to go!
It feels great to be on the road again.

With the bikes packed, spares acquired en route to Rochester, we are all set, well at least we think we are. I have to check and recheck just to ensure I have packed everything while Anne waits patiently for me to be “really sure” I have everything. We spend the last evening having dinner with our niece Camilla followed by an early start. 

Anne and Camilla in Rochester
Innovative re-purposing in small villages!

Given we have to cover 1,400 km / 875 miles in three days making as much distance in the early days is important.  We have chosen the Eurotunnel as it is quicker than the ferry and the same transport we used back in June 2013 to set off on our first RTW adventure.  On a bright not too chilly, for us, day, we quickly ride onto the M20 to be greeted by the overhead message board stating “M20 closed between J9 & J11”. (J=Junctions) Great, a detour at the start. However another roadside sign states that this is between the hours of midnight and six am.  Seems like the overhead signs came with an early version of Twitter with less than 140 characters.

We roll into the Eurotunnel terminal ahead of schedule and are offered an earlier train at no extra cost.  We meet our fellow motorcycle travellers, all heading to compass points between south east and south. None seem keen to head in our direction and all are travelling much lighter than we are even though we have left the kitchen sink behind.

Customs officers come in all shapes and sizes

When we boarded the train six years ago, the carriages and ridge space seemed so narrow, now it is a breeze, our skills must have improved somewhat.  The 35 minute crossing is taken up chatting to other riders about destinations and adventures. Out into the French sunlight, and I am taken how high the fences are around the Eurotunnel terminal – I wonder what the current refugee situation refugee is, as once it disappears from the everyday news, it tends to fade from the consciousness, well mine anyway.

Eurotunnel from Folkestone to Calais is easy and quick.

Entering Belgium by lunchtime makes it three countries today, will we make four or even five, probably not the latter. As we are travelling on a Saturday the heavy vehicle traffic is lighter and makes the journey more enjoyable. We head towards Antwerp which we recall from the first trip was hard going with long slow traffic tailbacks that really worked the clutch hand. Today it is a breeze. 

We are making good progress through Holland with Utrecht as our final destination today when Anne says “Watch for the woman waving madly in the motorhome” As the motorhome pulls along side, I see an animated face at the window, kidnapped? deranged driver? These thoughts pass through my mind, but I recognise that face and it is confirmed as the vehicle passes and I swear that under the cover on the back is a tatty old couch.  Warning lights come on and we pull over behind them. The driver gets out and my suspicions are confirmed.  Phillip and Judith, our friends and loyal blog followers who we first met in India back in 2009 as we took an organised motorcycle trip through India and Bhutan.  What are the odds of meeting like that?

Bumping into friends on a motorway in Holland!

No they were not coming to see what had happened to the latest blog entry or follow us to Iceland, but were heading for a concert in Amsterdam, well that was their story.  They were running late so 60 seconds at the side of the road and we went our separate ways.  Life and coincidences.  What an amazing world we live in.  Anne remarks that her brother, who left this earth 20 years ago today, would have enjoyed this synchronicity of meeting in the middle of nowhere – or maybe it was his doing?…

After a well deserved rest outside Utrecht, Sunday will be our longest day with some 600 kilometres.  Streak and Storm are performing well and the new tyres have encountered their first rainstorm and passed with flying colours. German drivers are faster and I find that my limit is 75 mph or 120 kph which means keeping an eye out for the cars that come up so quickly if you are not paying attention. I do admire those “Iron Butt” riders that have our three day mileage, 1000 miles, in 24 hours as an entry level event no less!  Not for us, we really are the 2 slow speeds.

At least the strong buffeting wind is put to good use, Denmark

As we approach the Danish border we see a roadblock and what look like military personnel, vehicles are being stopped and checked even though Denmark is part of the Schengen Area. Not sure of this is just a temporary measure or something more permanent.  We find that the drivers in Denmark seem more courteous than some of their counterparts as they will slow in the fast line to allow both of us to overtake slow moving vehicles.  We enjoy the green rolling countryside which is dotted with wind turbines making use of the buffeting we are getting as we ride. Hirtshals comes into view, we have arrived for the ferry tomorrow which a week ago seemed a forlorn hope.   Dinner overlooking the harbour, time to write this blog and then we are off.

Hirtshals port, Denmark – 1936 Johs Hejlesen boat in the foreground
Hirtshals port – where we had dinner below and where we leave for the Faroe Islands tomorrow
Making the most of the blue skies – the weather forecast for the coming weeks is not so good, but we knew that.

– Anthony 

Normal Service has been Resumed.

After the frenetic activity of the last couple of days, Thursday morning sees me basking in the sunlight waiting for Barry, a BMW specialist who has offered to come and look at Storm and take Storm back to his workshop if he thinks it can be fixed in a day. He was winding down ahead of a planned holiday, but has stepped in to help us.

I have been reading the Haynes manual on the cooling system and have at least understood the different functions of the temperature sensor and the thermostat. Still does not help me make a diagnosis.

Barry quickly sets to work, he feels there is an airlock in the system and manages to coax air out of the system with the application of more anti freeze and some pipe squeezing.  The radiator is now warm all over and the temperature warning lights remain silent.  I take Storm on a longer ride through the New Forest and all seems well.  A big thank you to Barry for taking the time to help us out. We are back to packing for the rest of the afternoon and will be ready to depart on Friday.

Barry working his magic on Storm

Thanks for all the out of the box suggestions and the generous offer from Anne’s mother of her car as a replacement.  Luckily they were not needed, including my plan to weld a shopping trolley, a sidecar substitute, to Streak. 

A leisurely drive, by car, brings us to Beaulieu, an area we used to hike and camp in, some 40 years ago. We relax over dinner at a local pub with everything back on track and our departure only one day behind the original schedule.  We will start out tomorrow, Friday, with a visit to the BMW dealership at Alton to pick up a replacement ABS sensor. 

Beaulieu and a bike of course
All those who came out to greet us as we arrived at our hotel on hearing Storm was fixed, or not!

So those of you who were dragging their tatty old armchairs back to the shed, to the relief of their partners, bring them back, settle down with your favourite beverage and snack and prepare for another 2slowspeeds saga.

– Anthony

Air Canada Cargo – Fly Your Bike

Holidays looming, Where to ride this to this summer? The Alps or Rockies again depending on whether you live in Europe or North America, but what about something different? Cross the Atlantic with your motorcycle and ride the other side of the pond. Difficult, costly and time-consuming you may say, but perhaps not. Have you seen Air Canada Cargo’s ‘Fly Your Bike’ offer? This innovative program enables transatlantic travel for motorcycles between May 1 and 30 September 2017 at extremely competitive prices. Below is my understanding of their destinations and pricing for 2017. Note that these prices are for Air Canada ticketed passengers and do not include local customs charges.

While not claiming to be airfreight motorcycle shipping experts, we have some experience as Streak and Storm are being prepared for their sixth flight from Vancouver to Seoul. We have shipped in crates, on pallets, directly with Airlines and through Shipping Agents on four continents. Each experience was different, but we have found that Air Canada’s Cargo’s ‘Fly Your Bike’ program is the easiest, quickest and most cost effective motorcycle shipping process. We have used Air Canada Cargo once each way across the Atlantic but I will not detail their process, best to read the relevant Air Canada documentation https://www.aircanada.com/cargo/en/shipping/shipping-solutions/ac-dgr/#tab_motorcycle then contact Air Canada Cargo directly with any questions. What I will say in our experience is that you can ride to and from Air Canada Cargo at each end without crating and it does not get any better than that.

Streak & Storm, ready to fly


Some may wonder why we have posted what could be considered an ‘infomercial’, but I simply think that the program is excellent value and in my view under publicised. We have not been sponsored by Air Canada in any way. Enjoy your 2017 Biking holiday whatever your destination and if you use the service, tell them the 2slowspeeds sent you!

– Anthony

Note to self – a temporary fix may be just that, temporary

We’re on the road again, as the song in my head goes. That was on the 16th August. Streak and Storm are purring beautifully as we head to the Poole ferry with Anthony’s brother-in-law John leading the way on his bike. Our first stop tonight is the Mont-Saint-Michel, a short 150km ride after a 3 hour ferry ride from Poole to Cherbourg. The scenery is gorgeous, we’re enjoying our leisurely ride through the small villages, past old stone houses. I suddenly realise it is my first time riding in France since my old moped days when I was a teenager and I am so excited. The roads are remarkably clear for mid August in France – the height of the tourist season. It seems we have picked our timing perfectly.

75km south of Cherbourg, I feel something is not quite right. My front brake is suddenly sluggish, I notice my tank has drops of oil which I immediately know this means something has happened to my brake fluid container, then the front brake is totally useless. I can pull the lever all the way, to no effect. We pull over and find out my front brake container is empty. The temporary fix I had built by an amazing mechanic in Chiang Mai, Thailand (after I smashed it after crashing into a wall in India) basically disintegrated. The beautiful fibreglass mold had done a fantastic job for 12 months, but brake fluid is corrosive and it eventually ate through the fibreglass. That is when I made a note to myself: a temporary fix may be just that, temporary. A good lesson for the future…

Thank goodness for the back brake but going through endless roundabouts in small towns and villages is proving to be tricky. We limp along, Anthony behind me protecting my back and with our flashers on, until I give up outside Bréhal as I spot a Peugeot repair place just off yet another roundabout and ask for directions to the nearest motorcycle store – I see they have a tow truck so, if need be, I am sure we can get Streak to the right place. We are in luck – there is a motorcycle store just 8kms away I am told, just 3 or 4 roundabouts away. Easy. No problem getting there in my situation they say. But I am not comfortable and decide to take Anthony’s bike while he waits for my return. Thank goodness I didn’t go on Streak: I get totally and utterly lost and end up in the tiny twisty streets of Granville teeming with tourists walking all over the place. It feels nightmarish, especially as I realise I didn’t make a note of where I left Anthony. It turns out I took the wrong exit at the first round about – I was not meant to follow the signs to Granville even though I was heading to Granville…. I eventually find the store, buy some brake fluid, ask for directions back to where I think I left Anthony and finally get back 1.5 hours later!! Lucky Anthony is not a worrier.

Anthony remembers what we did to refill my brake fluid container back in India, making sure to bleed the brake properly. We overfill the container, expecting continued seepage through the base and slowly make our way to the Mont St Michel, with our flashers going on the faster stretches of road to warn upcoming drivers behind us. I get splashes of oil all over the tank, my trousers and even helmet visor as it seeps out but on arrival at our hotel , we see I didn’t loose too much. We should be able to make Nantes tomorrow no problem. I call BMW Boxer-Passion in Nantes that evening to warn them of our arrival.

It has been a long day – 14 hours since we got up and Anthony started to cough badly today. He is stuffed and his ankle hurts. But he knows how much I had been looking forward to seeing the Mont St Michel again so he soldiers on so that we can have a quick visit of this fantastic Unesco site which I last saw when I was very little.

We made it to the Mont-Saint-Michel!

We made it to the Mont-Saint-Michel!

The Mont-Saint-Michel at dusk

The Mont-Saint-Michel at dusk

The medieval streets within the Mont-Saint-Michel

The medieval streets within the Mont-Saint-Michel

We set off the next morning for BMW Boxer-Passion in Nantes where Philippe, said he admired what we did to keep going while in SE Asia, but also gave me a telling off!! Unfortunately, and even to the surprise of the guys at BMW Boxer-Passion, we cannot just buy the container, but have to get the entire front brake system (as we had found out previously) – and yes, that means big €€€ and a week’s delay to get the part in. But they did try and see if they could find one from a broken bike they could give us. Very very helpful – thank you BMW Boxer-Passion Nantes for trying. And yes, I will remember in future that any temporary fix may need fixing ‘properly’. The angels are still on our side 🙂

– Anne

Our RTW is complete!!!

After we dropped the bikes off at Air Canada cargo and being separated from Streak and Storm, we feel like we have lost control of our destiny, in limbo. We have not quite finished the trip, yet this is another milestone – we can’t even work out how we feel. It is a strange time.

We get back to the UK on the 12th September after an overnight flight from Montreal, via Halifax. Clearing the bikes from Air Canada at Heathrow is quick and painless (except for an additional unexpected charge – from customs or Air Canada, not sure as each one claimed it was for the other…). It was still a very good deal overall, so no complaint, especially considering it was all done in 15′ and after a sleepless flight, we appreciate being reunited with Streak and Storm so quickly. We are lucky with the weather, clear blue skies, and we are able to repack in no time, even earning a congratulation from a truck driver who has been watching us from his cab. This friendly guy even offered me the use of his cab to change from as he saw I was about to take my jeans off. That is the least of my concerns, decline and I am back in my riding pants in no time.

Our first port of call is BMW Oxford, where we bought our demo bikes from. We thought they’d like to see the bikes after their round the world tour as the had commented when we left that it was nice to see that their bikes were going to be used for what they had been designed. We also wanted them to complete the bikes’ 36,000 miles service (we had already done the oil change and cleaned the re-usable K&N air filters).

A few hours later, we head for our hotel half way to Anthony’s sister Tansy in Dorset. We are exhausted, thought we would not be much company after an overnight flight, we didn’t want to ride too far and needed a long sleep before seeing family again.

I sleep for 11 hours and wake up refreshed – not so lucky for Anthony with his itchy skin. It looks like our last leg will be done in the rain. We rug up as it is cool too.

One last leg and the trip is complete

One last leg and the trip is complete

I recall how I had thought how long and boring the motorway journey to Dover nearly 15 months ago had felt – and it was our first day only – how will I cope with riding all around the world?!?! It seemed like such a massive task ahead of us. And we felt so green and inexperienced: we hadn’t even finished the beginner’s off road course and our motorcycle maintenance experience was next to nothing! Now, on our last day, the trip seems like it happened so fast and easily and it is just about over. Although it is raining, I am savouring these last couple of hours.

Welcome back to the UK!

Welcome back to the UK!


Approaching Verwood, Dorset where we started from

Approaching Verwood, Dorset where we started from


We approach Tansy’s home, the sun is out, the butterflies have reappeared, we see Tansy on the doorstep looking out for us, spotting us in the distance and waiving. What a sight. What a feeling. One last turn right, onto the gravel driveway, stop, the poppers and streamers go off, engines off. Wow. We have made it!!!!!!!!!!! Yes, the 2 Slow Speeds have just gone around the world on motorcycles and made it back with Streak and Storm, the 4 of us relatively unscathed. Our grateful thanks to our trusted companions, Streak and Storm, and our many guardian angels who can take a well deserved rest now.

We have made it!!

We have made it!!

Storm and Streak have made it back!!

Storm and Streak have made it back!!


What a great welcome back

What a great welcome back

Awwww

Awwww



I saw a little saying yesterday “what would you attempt to do if you knew you could not fail?”. It made me wonder what I would do. I am so glad the YouTube videos of roads in Russia, Kazakhstan, India and Myanmar didn’t put me off – they terrified me, the videos that is and I dreaded riding in those places. But the experience was different, they made me feel alive. The people we met, the numerous generous actions of strangers, the friends we made – worth absolutely everything. And the whole trip was so easy really. We were never threatened, never robbed and never felt unsafe. I am so glad my fears didn’t end building barriers to a most amazing experience.

We finish our trip being so much richer than when we left, with our brains full of memories, hearts bursting with the kindness of people the world over and looking forward to seeing family again. We will be coming out of our retirement when we return, having spent a lot more than planned because we didn’t camp as much as originally planned and stayed in better hotels. But one thing is certain, we have absolutely no regrets.

What next is a big question mark. The result of Anthony’s skin biopsy this week (and 4 stitches) will determine what we do in the short term. But we have changed our plans for the next few months, and forfeited travel bookings in Europe to return to Australia next month. It will be easier for Anthony to be in one place over the next few months at least while his treatment is fine tuned. Sadly, it does mean that we will not be able to catch with many friends and family members in Europe as we had planned to. But the last couple of months have been quite horrid for Anthony (without counting his crushed ankle) and he has been incredibly brave to continue as he has. It is more than time to concentrate wholly on his health now.

We are grateful to you too, our followers, for your support during our trip – if we hadn’t written the blog, for you initially, if you hadn’t let us know you were following us, commented and encouraged us for more posts, it would have been easy, tempting even, to stop writing and we would have had no way of remembering all we have seen and done and the names of the wonderful people we have met along the way. After some months, we ended up writing the blog for ourselves too. So, so long, and thanks for all the memories…..

Anne for the 2SlowSpeeds