An unexpected journey

Yes, I know, I may be accused of plagiarising part of a movie title, but there is an element of truth in this statement. If you recall the end of the Anne’s last blog, she mentioned we changed our travel route. When we made the original plans for southern Spain, I was sick and Anne had to make decisions on where to go, but sensibly made refundable hotel bookings. While in Granada, and after Toledo, we were looking for something a little different to yet another famous historic Spanish town teeming with tourists, so I suggested since we were so close, Gibraltar. This location would also allow us ride the A397 from San Pedro de Alcántara which we had been told was a great motorcycling road by a friend.

While accommodation in Gibraltar was prohibitively expensive by our standards, we found that Algeciras across the bay was very reasonably priced compared with all the holiday destinations along the coast from Malaga to Estepona. This is probably due to the unseasonably hot weather in early September which seemed to have attracted more tourists to the region.

So why Gibraltar some may ask? It just seemed an interesting location that we were close to, had never visited and seemed a little different to the historic places we had visited, or planed to visit in the region. Our first glimpse of Gibraltar came as we breasted a rise on the A-7 heading for Algeciras, towering over the surrounding low hills, an imposing sight.

While we are using Algeciras as a base for four nights, Anne felt we should travel on Saturday 10th to Gibraltar. No particular reason, it just seemed right. Over the years we have always followed our intuition even when we don’t know why. While Gibraltar is only 20 minutes by road we had heard of potentially long delays at the border, so we approached with no expectations of how long this crossing process would take. The approach, with the ‘Rock’ stands tall in the distance growing larger as we approached.

Approach to Gibraltar.

Approach to Gibraltar.

The border crossing was easy, see Borders and Crossings for details, the next step was to cross the runway! With the shortage of land in Gibraltar the only place to build a runway was across the access route to Gibraltar so both road and air transport share the same ground.

Ready for takeoff, Runway 09/27

Ready for takeoff, Runway 09/27

The ‘Rock’ now towers almost vertically it seems from the motorbikes some 426 m (1,398 ft) above us as we head to the eastern side. One can understand the trepidation the various forces that besieged Gibraltar over time would see in their approach from sea level. For those interested in Gibraltar’s history I suggest looking at ‘History of Gibraltar’ on http://www.wikipedia.org.

The east side is sparsely populated and the only road winds between sea and soaring mountain, traffic is light and we glimpse the remains of fortifications and tunnel entrances that honeycomb the rock. We travel southwards and come across the Dudley Ward Way tunnel, which connects the east and south of Gibraltar. The tunnel was built by the Royal Engineers who built many of the 55km of tunnels that exist inside the ‘Rock’ that in WW2 were capable of supporting 16,000 troops. The Royal Engineers had been in Gibraltar for hundreds of years and a statue to them can be found off Main Street.

We emerge near Europa point to see the Ibrahim-al-Ibrahim Mosque. The only one in Gibraltar, built for the 1,000 muslims living here. They are part of such a diverse ethic history which includes Andalusian Spanish, Genoese, Maltese, Portuguese and British.

Europa point seems so close to Africa which is clearly visible, such a small gap for the Mediterranean Sea to be connected to rest of the world and why Gibraltar was such an important Naval base in its time. We see a memorial to WW2 Polish Prime minister Władysław Sikorski who died in air crash in Gibraltar on 4 July 1943. This was our second link to the Polish war effort in WW2 after our stay in Saint Jean de Luz with the evacuation of Polish soldiers after the fall of France in 1940. It has been interesting to read up on Polish involvement in WW2 after the fall of Poland in 1939. Sometimes we spend more time reading and researching on what we have seen after each visit than before!

Lighthouse at Europa Point with Africa in the background.

Lighthouse at Europa Point with Africa in the background.


Two slow speeds at Europa point.

Two slow speeds at Europa point.


As we approach the centre of town, we start to notice people dressed in red and white, Gibraltar flags appear at windows in the apartment blocks we pass. Today, 10 September, is Gibraltar’s National Day commemorating Gibraltar’s first sovereignty referendum of 1967. We learn that in the past the day has had a more political focus, but nowadays there is more of a party atmosphere. Now we know the reason of Anne’s intuition for coming today.

Support your National day, wear red and white.

Support your National day, wear red and white.

Spain still wants the return of Gibraltar to Spanish sovereignty after over 300 years. It is ironic that the original British/Dutch invasion in 1704 was on behalf of the Austrian claimant to the Spanish throne in the war of the Spanish Succession. It will be interesting to see where Brexit leaves Gibraltar, especially with the comments by Spain’s acting Foreign Minister Jose Manuel Garcia-Margallo recently on joint sovereignty.

We wander the streets in the older part of town where people and even their pets are dressed in Gibraltar’s colours of red and white. The main street meanders through the town, we notice an interesting mixture of UK names such as Marks and Spencer and other stores whose names reflect the diverse origin of the inhabitants.

British, Gibraltar and Chelsea FC flags.

British, Gibraltar and Chelsea FC flags.


A patriotic Gibraltar inhabitant.

A patriotic Gibraltar inhabitant.


While being whisked up to the top of the ‘Rock’ by cablecar, one gets a new perspective that is not possible from sea level. There has been a large amount of development westwards with new apartment blocks, but no skyscrapers. A breathtaking series of views and a large number of Barbary macaques, monkeys to the uninformed, await us. We have been warned they like food and spectacles. So I walk around without mine as a precaution. I will have to look at the photos for a clear picture of what I saw!

Why we go to the top of the mountain.

Why we go to the top of the mountain.


Monkey business at the top of the rock.

Monkey business at the top of the rock.


We are on top of the world!

We are on top of the world!

Our departure is delayed by waiting at traffic lights for a large jet to take off. Probably the only place where this occurs. We are glad we decided to come here to see and learn a little about Gibraltar.

Waiting at the traffic lights for a plane to takeoff!

Waiting at the traffic lights for a plane to takeoff!

– Anthony

Heading to Andalucía

We have given ourselves 3 days to get to Granada with no plan whatsoever. We never planned on stopping in Madrid on our way to southern Spain but had left ourselves open to the possibility. However after such a relaxing time in and around Santo Domingo de Silos, Madrid is definitely off. Where to next? Anthony mentions Toledo as a possible next stop as it is just 70kms south of Madrid – funnily, I had marked a campground in Toledo on my map as a possible stop over place. Great minds think alike – but it has now become really hot so camping is off and we book a hotel for 2 nights.

Toledo, declared a UNESCO heritage listed site in 1986, is renowned for its location, architecture and historical co-existence of Christian, Muslim Jewish cultures. It is has been known as a steel working centre since 500BC. Toledo steel being unusually hard, Toledo became a source of weaponry for Roman legions, renowned for its design, manufacture and ergonomics.

Seeing Toledo for the first time is breathtaking. I explore the city and some specific sights of interest to me during the day while Anthony rests in the cool air conditioned room. Then we go out together in the evening for a spot of sightseeing and dinner – we are loving the long summer nights and gentle sun setting light. But what happened to the end of holidays?! This place is so full of tourists. The number of Toledo steel sword shops and tourist junk shops is so overwhelming, I do not even feel like stopping to admire the workmanship.

I know of El Greco’s paintings so seek out the various places that hold some of his works. And I have read of the turbulent history of the site of the current Cathedral de Santa Maria, which had a church in 587, then a mosque following a Muslim invasion in 711-788, then the mosque got converted to a church in 1088, then finally the new cathedral foundations were started in 1226. The walnut-wood stalls in the choir were the most exquisite I have ever seen. I am glad I chose to take a self guided audio tour of this incredible cathedral. Three hours later, I manage to escape the huge throngs of tourists and enjoy losing myself in the twisty and steep streets of Toledo.

Catedral de Santa Maria deToledo, Spain

Catedral de Santa Maria deToledo, Spain

Catedral Santa Maria de Toledo, Spain

Catedral Santa Maria de Toledo, Spain

Exquisite wood carvings in the choir, Catedral de Santa Maria, Toledo, Spain

Exquisite wood carvings in the choir, Catedral de Santa Maria, Toledo, Spain


But it is HOT and I look forward to a late lunch of fresh bread and Iberian ham in our hotel room with Anthony. That evening, we go into Toledo together and get a taxi to take us on a drive around the city – I had planned on doing it on foot but it is 39 degrees still at 7pm! What a sight.
Toledo, Spain

Toledo, Spain

Toledo, Spain

Toledo, Spain

We now have a longish ride to Granada but we don’t mind as we have 3 nights booked there. And it is a hot ride – thank goodness for our vented trousers.

We arrive at our hotel hot and tired and grateful to find motorcycle parking spots across the road from the hotel, thus saving us €15 a day parking.

I knew the Alhambra was not to missed and thought it would be interesting to have a guided tour to learn more of the fascinating story of this magnificent palace. My mistake: I didn’t check the size of the group. 30 people and 2 languages. Much too big for the audio equipment which crackled if you were more than 5 metres away from the guide and for moving around the place and see what the guide was talking about. Apart from the frustration of not hearing most of the commentary, moving like swarms of ants around this place made us wonder how we are going to manage tourism across the world over time. This place for example is at capacity. Virtual 3D tours do not provide sensory experiences – like smell of the wood, or the plants, the coolness of some of the rooms or courtyards. We know we have been spoilt with our travels recently, especially across the Stans and Iran and our memories of these and our new experiences in Santo Domingo de Silos, Granada and Toledo clarify what type of travel we wish to seek out in future. We would rather seek out more Santo Domingo de Silos places – small places with their own story and history and places with simply or primarily locals. For example, we actually enjoyed seeing the Taj Mahal with thousands of people because the majority of these people there were locals, visiting for religious or cultural reasons. The tourists were a minority.

Despite the tourists and the poor audio, we are glad we visited the Alhambra. It is an impressive series of three palaces contained within an old fortress dating back to AD889. It was rebuilt in the 13th century by the Moorish emir of Granada then converted to a royal palace in 1333 by Yusuf 1, Sultan of Granada before becoming the royal court of Isabella 1, queen of Castille. The muslim art and architecture is stunning. We recovered from the madness of the crowds and tour groups walking through the gorgeous gardens of the summer palace, known as Generalife, built in 1302 – dare I say, a highlight of the tour for us, as were our walks through the Alhambra park surrounding the Alhambra.

Alhambra, Granada, Spain

Alhambra, Granada, Spain

Alhambra, Granada, Spain

Alhambra, Granada, Spain

Alhambra, Granada, Spain

Alhambra, Granada, Spain

Alhambra, Granada, Spain

Alhambra, Granada, Spain


Alhambra, Generalife, Granada, Spain

Alhambra, Generalife, Granada, Spain


Our favourite time in Granada was after a walk around the back of the Alhambra took us to a beautiful quiet spot with locals enjoying the cooler time of the day – 2 guys playing guitar together on one bench and a couple of benches along, a young couple enjoying time together. The next day, we enjoyed walking through the non touristy part of the city and finding ourselves a hairdresser.
Locals enjoying a balmy evening, Granada

Locals enjoying a balmy evening, Granada

Typical Granada street - steep and narrow

Typical Granada street – steep and narrow


Super cheap hair cut in Granada back street

Super cheap hair cut in Granada back street


Our next stop is Alcaucin, a tiny village between Granada and Malaga, where we are staying with friends we first met in Peru and stayed with in Ecuador who now live in Spain. It is a beautiful ride. It feels good, despite the heat. We are in deep Andalucía. The rolling hills are stunning. The roads perfectly twisty for motorcycle riding. After a high pass, and long twisty road down, it is time to ride up the steep and narrow streets of Alcaucin. Oh yes, we make a couple of wrong turns (the gps can’t adjust its direction as finely and quickly as these tiny streets require) but we finally find their home.
Andalucía, Spain

Andalucía, Spain


We are treated to fine food, Ecuadorian and Spanish delicacies, a cooling swimming pool, a fantastic guest room, our first washing machine load in 10 days, great fresh drinking water from fountains in the village square that comes straight out of the mountain, a drive to the local market and a swim in the ocean at Torre del Mar and best of all lovely long chats for good friends and like minded travellers. Thank you both!!
Alcaucin, Spain

Alcaucin, Spain

Water fountain, Alcaucin village, Spain

Water fountain, Alcaucin village, Spain

With Karen

With Karen

With Jos

With Jos

While we are with our friends, and following our experience in Toledo and Granada, we decide to change our travel plans – we won’t be staying in Cordoba next but travel there for the day from Seville in 4 days’ time…

– Anne

Another anniversary on the road

Today, 31st August 2016, is our 42nd anniversary. We celebrate the anniversary of the day we met as it was for both of us an instant connection, a day that would start a most incredible life together.

As you can see below, we both always enjoyed nature and adventure.

Our first camping holiday together,  in Ireland in 1977

Our first camping holiday together, in Ireland in 1977

Anthony on our first camping holiday in 1977, Ireland

Anthony on our first camping holiday in 1977, Ireland

Meru National Park, Kenya, 1982

Meru National Park, Kenya, 1982

Sure, some adventures we could have done without, especially some more recent ones this past decade, but at least they’ve provided us with good stories after the fact… And of course we have changed. But we have not lost the essence of who we are as individuals, we share the same values, the same love of life, the same love of discovery and the same respect for each other and others, which has allowed us to develop into who we are as individuals, develop our own and very separate interests while continuing to develop our love for each other.

We have now spent the last 3 anniversaries on the road, in Tehran, Iran in 2014 to mark our 40th anniversary, in New York USA in 2015 towards the end of our Round the World trip and now in Spain. This year’s celebration is more how we tend to mark our anniversary – in a low key sort of way, which is usually camping in one of our favourite spots in Australia. I chose Santo Domingo de Silos for its calm, simplicity and location in the country. Interestingly, I used to listen to Benedictine chants from this monastery when I used to work from home for Mincom – a few lifetimes ago – as a great way to declutter the mind. So it was wonderful to be able to attend Vespers and listen to the monks’ chants after a tour of the most exquisite cloisters I have ever seen.

The monastery dates back to the 7th century. In the 10th century, the abbey was called San Sebastián de Silos, but acquired its current name when Santo Domingo was entrusted to renovate the abbey by Fernando the Great, King of Castile and León. When Santo Domingo died in 1073, work on the church and the cloister was handed over to Abbot Fortunius, who saw the rest of the construction to its completion. The monks originally sang Mozarabic chant. At some point around the eleventh century they switched to Gregorian chant. In 1835 the abbey of Silos was closed, along with other monasteries in Spain. Benedictine monks from Solesmes in France revived the foundation in 1880 and the singing has since been influenced by the scholarship and performance style of Solesmes Abbey.

On our way to Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain

On our way to Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain

Outside our hotel, Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain

Outside our hotel, Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain

Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain

Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain

Santo Domingo de Silos, monastery, Spain

Santo Domingo de Silos, monastery, Spain

Santo Domingo de Silos, monastery, Spain

Santo Domingo de Silos, monastery, Spain

Santo Domingo de Silos, monastery, Spain

Santo Domingo de Silos, monastery, Spain

Santo Domingo de Silos monastery, Spain

Santo Domingo de Silos monastery, Spain

Santo Domingo de Silos monastery, Spain

Santo Domingo de Silos monastery, Spain

View from Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain

View from Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain

In Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain

In Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain

Life for the 2 Slow Speeds certainly is good and we are always mindful of our luck in finding each other and along our life adventure so far!!! Here’s wishing everyone the happiness we believe everyone deserves.

– Anne