Road trip – street art

As those who have followed us know, I have an interest in street art and wherever we’ve travelled, street art has provided us with an interesting insight into local life, its struggles, beliefs and hopes – its heartbeat. This road trip to Melbourne in early March has provided me with a feast from day one.

Just two hours after leaving home, we come across Moore Trailers warehouse in Pittsworth, SW of Toowoomba and their 100m long mural celebrating all things and people important to the region. Arthur Postle, born 1881, a professional runner nicknamed the “Crimson Flash”, who set 5 world records, died in Wynnum, the subburb next door to us, in 1965. Pittsworth confectionary, a family owned business. The 84 ANZACS born in Pittsworth, including too many sets of brothers and a father and son. And of course, all things related to farming, agriculture and life on the land.

Moore Trailers, Pittsworth, Qld

Moore Trailers, Pittsworth, Qld

Millmerran is a small town of approximately 1,500 inhabitants which lies on the flat, fertile black soil plains to the west of Toowoomba. The likely origin of the name is two local Aboriginal words – “meel” which is thought to mean “eye” and “merran” which is a verb “to look out”, probably referring to a nearby lookout which was used as a viewing point by the local Aborigines from the Keinjan language group. The first Europeans arrived in the area in 1841. It prospered in the 19th century through mainly wool and sheep, changed to dairying during the early 20th century which saw the development of 2 cheese and butter factories and today engages in mixed farming with sheep, cattle, cereal grains and cotton dominating.

The Millmerran water reservoir mural was commissioned in 1988 and celebrates its history and the early days of transporting water.

Millmerran water reservoir, Qld

Millmerran water reservoir, Qld

Onto Goondiwindi – pronounced ‘gundawindi’ – I love that name! But had never looked into it’s origin before. Prior to the arrival of Europeans in 1827, the area was occupied by the Bigambul Aboriginal people. One of the early settlers, who had arrived in the 1830s, named a property ‘Gundawinda’ which was a Bigambul Aboriginal word for “a resting place for the birds”. There are other authorities which claim the town’s name comes from “goona winnah” meaning “duck droppings “. Goondiwindi is now a small town of approximately 6,000 people, on the border between Queensland and NSW.

A cheeky take on Australia’s Coat of Arms, Goondiwindi, Qld

Australia Coat of Arms


Goondiwindi steel sculptures, Qld


The Macintyre River with its water birds, reeds and the bank at sunset, water tank, Goondiwindi


In 1956 Edward Vernon Redmond, engineer to Goondiwindi Council, submitted a flood prevention scheme for the town. He and his foreman Bill McNulty had survived the flood by boat – marking the height on trees. The levee banks that he designed have saved Goondiwindi from major flooding ever since.” Up until then, residents used to gather under this tree and exchange flood stories and speculate on the time the next flood would reach the town. The Tree of Knowledge sculpture was created in commemoration of this time.

Next stop, Dubbo. Evidence of habitation by Wiradjuri Indigenous Australians dates back over 40,000 years. Explorer and surveyor John Oxley was the first European to report on the area in 1818 then the first British colonist settler in the area, Robert Dulhunty, arrived after 1829 and chose grazing land which he named ‘Dubbo’. It is believed to be a Wiradjuri word meaning either “cap”, “head covering” or “red earth”.

Melbourne artist Matt Adnate was commisioned in 2016 to paint this magnificient 6 meter tall mural of Pearl Gibbs, a passionate Aboriginal activist, and Dakota, a local young child who symbolises a positive future. Pearl Gibbs lead a remarkable life campaigning for Aboriginal rights, her work too extensive to do it justice in just a few sentences here – have a read of this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pearl_Gibbs

Pearl Gibbs by Adnate, Dubbo, NSW

Then we arrived in Hay, NSW. I fell in love with this small country town, population 2,500, not because of the surrounding beauty of the land, which is flat as far as the eye can see (or maybe because it reminds me of northern France where I grew up) but because the town instantly felt loved, cared for and proud. And we met Craig which added the all important human connection. We didn’t know anything about Hay when we arrived but decided to pull over and have a mid morning break and tea/coffee there before exploring. Every block was a visual and historical surprise. It is only when writing this blog entry that I discovered there is a documented heritage trail available online with 18 places of interest. Hay was named in October 1859 after a local squatter and politician, a Secretary of Lands and Works, named John Hay who was later knighted and became Sir John Hay. Because this post is primarily about street art, you will have to read up https://www.visithay.com.au/Explore-and-Discover/History-Heritage or better still, visit Hay yourself.

Messages from Hay, NSW

Foodworks, Hay, NSW

Four days after leaving Brisbane, we arrive at Sea Lake, Victoria, where my feast of street art truly begins.

Sea Lake, Vic

Stitch the dog, by DRapl and Zookeeper, Seal Lake

Great murals, but this is not what we came here for. I had heard of the Silo Art Trail in Victoria and seen pictures of the old grain silos but it is not until you get up close and personal that you truly comprehend the scale of this art. The Silo Art Trail is Australia’s largest outdoor gallery. The trail stretches over 200 kilometres, linking Brim with neighbouring towns Lascelles, Patchewollock, Rosebery, Rupanyup, Sheep Hills and Sea Lake. The art and concept of bringing life back to decommissioned grain silos became such a success after the first silo was painted in Brim in 2016, infusing the community with newfound energy and optimism, that the Silo Art Trail began.

We start with the latest addition to the Silo Art Trail. We were lucky that the owner of the accommodation I chose for the night in Sea Lake, Julie, was directly involved in the commisioning of the artists for this silo artwork and was happy to share its history with us. Brisbane based artists Travis Vinson (DRAPL) and Joel Fergie (The Zookeeper) wanted to capture the beauty and grandeur of the Mallee region, in particular Lake Tyrrell. But it was important to Julie and others to capture the Aboriginal connection to the area. The little girl on a mallee eucalyptus swing refects on her aboriginal heritage, looking towards Lake Tyrrell, moving between the past, present and the future.The Boorong Indigenous name ‘Tyrrell’ means ‘space opening to the sky’ – the Boorong People were known to have more knowledge of astronomy than any other tribe,

Julie also told us about a phone app on the silos – pity our mobiles didn’t have reception in those areas to make the most of the technology. The virtual reality app is called Wimmera Mallee Tourism.

Sea Lake Silo, Drapl and Zookeeper, Vic – can you spot me?

Sea Lake Silo, Drapl and Zookeeper, Vic


Sea Lake Silo

Anthony often bemoans how he keeps being told to reduce his waistline in no uncertain terms:

Anthony wishes they would stop going on about his waistline!

This Speed sign on our way to Patchewollock though brought a smile on our faces – a village named after us?!

Welcome to Speed!!

Brisbane artist Fintan Magee booked a room at the local pub to get to know the Patchewollock community. When he met local sheep and grain farmer Nick “Noodle” Hulland, Fintan Magee knew he had found the perfect subject for the 35 metre high canvas of the twin 1939 GrainCorp silos: he was the perfect rugged, lanky local who exemplified the no-nonsense, hardworking spirit of the region. I particularly love Hulland’s evocative expression which reflects the challenges of life on the land here, as he squints under the harsh Australian sun.

Patchewollock silo art


Nick Holland on Fintan Magee’s silo at Patchewollock

Like Fintan Magee, Melbourne-based artist Rone wanted to capture the true essence of Lascelles so spent time in this town of 100 people in mid 2017 before taking 2 weeks to transform the two 1939 decommissioned grain silos. He chose a local farming couple Geoff and Merrilyn Horman, part of a family that has lived and farmed in the area for four generations. Rone says that he “wanted the mural to portray his subjects as wise and knowing, nurturing the town’s future with their vast farming experience and longstanding connection to the area.” The peaceful, contemplative gaze depicted in this artwork moved me – I saw warmth, strength of character, wisdom and the fragility of life at the same time.

Lascelles silo art

Lascelles silo art

Merrilyn Horman on Rone’s silo art at Lascelles

Renowned Melbourne street artist Kaff-eine spent time with Rone when he was working on his Lascelles project. She too travelled around the area, meeting and connecting with local business and farmers before completing her silos in Rosebery in 2017. The character on the left represents today’s generation of young, strong female farmers. The one on the right represents a contemporary farmer showing the connection between him and his trusted companion.

Rosebery silo Kaff-eine

Brim
This is where the first silo was painted, before the concept of the Silo Art Trail was even contemplated. Guido van Helten was born in 1986 and raised in Brisbane. We first came across his work when we visited Reykjavik in 2018 and I was blown away by the quality of his artwork – https://2slowspeeds.com/2018/02/28/reykjavik-the-peoples-voice/ so I was extremely excited to see his artwork on an even bigger scale here in Brim. Guido completed the artwork on the 30 meter tall silos in early 2016, with minimal funds. To this date, we do not know who those people are. Guido said in an interview that he wanted the mystery to remain as he wanted the artwork to be about the community and the Wimmera region as a whole rather individuals. He also feels that anonymity enables us to have our own connection to the work. I like that concept. It somehow made me look at each character in more detail. This work conveyed the harshness of life and of the environment on those people we rely on so much for our daily food.

Guido van Helten’s silo art at Brim, Vic

Brim silo close-up

Adnate spent 4 weeks in the community of Sheep Hills in 2016 to conceive and complete this silo. Adnate’s depiction of Wergaia Elder, Uncle Ron Marks, and Wotjobaluk Elder, Aunty Regina Hood, alongside two young children, Savannah Marks and Curtly McDonald celebrates the richness of the area’s Indigenous culture. The night sky represents elements of local dreaming and the overall image signifies the important exchange of wisdom, knowledge and customs from Elders to the next generation.

Sheep Hills silo Art by Adnate

Aunty Regina, Sheep Hills silo art cose-up

Savannah Marks, Sheep Hills silo art


Rupanyup
Completed over several weeks in early 2017, Rupanyup’s mural celebrates the important and integral that sport plays in rural Australian communities. Russian mural artist, Julia Volchkova, vividly captures this spirit of community in the fresh faces of Rupanyup residents and local sporting team members, Ebony Baker and Jordan Weidemann. Fresh-faced and dressed in their sports attire (netball and Australian Rules football, respectively), Baker and Weidemann embody a youthful spirit of strength, hope and camaraderie. Such exquisite and extraordinary work and feeling.

Rupanyup silo art by Julia Volchkova

Ebony Baker, Rupanyup silo art


I’m interested in hearing what your favourite silo is and why. Ok, you can have 3 favourites because I have 3: Sea Lake, Lascelles and Sheep Hills. And I loved Patchewollock too. Oh, and Rupanyup! Is it because all those represent real people? And Brim was very special, maybe because it left so many questions unanswered. That makes it 6 out of 7 favourites!! Ok, back to my original question: which is your favourite and why?

At the end of day 4 of our little road trip, we get to St Arnaud, a small town rich in restored houses and street art, our last stop over for the night before getting to Melbourne.

St Arnaud, street celebrating local firefighter

St Arnaud, Vic

Melbourne is famous for its street art but our visit there is purely to catch up with a few friends before boarding a ferry to Tasmania to deliver the vehicle. We did get to see these though – in just an alleyway in Brunswick, Melbourne.

Brunswick, Melbourne, Vic

Street art on the ground, Brunswick, Melbourne

Street art in Melbourne changes regularly

There are so many silos and water tanks painted by different artists all over Australia, this was just a small introduction. When Covid-19 isolation is over, it would be great to go on another trip and discover some of Quensland water tanks. We’re so glad and grateful we managed to make this trip. Stay safe everyone!!

– Anne

Street art in Glasgow

Part of the joy of discovering new places is to meander without any fixed itinerary, and taking the time to notice and enjoy the place’s smaller details that make up life there, taking in the atmosphere and talking to people. The beauty of street art is that you find it in the most unexpected places, often returning life to what were run down or dingy areas – it invariably puts a smile on my face due to either its message or humour, often both.

Glasgow has been a revelation to both of us but this post is solely about its street art which has been fun finding.

The most impressive mural to me is the one by Smug, Sam Bates, in what was once a delapidated car park, depecting all sorts of local ‘residents’ found in parks and green spaces, as if appearing through cracks in the wall, throughout the seasons. The longer I spent looking at it, the more detail I found, right down to the identical reflection of the church facing the wall in the squirrel and wolf’s eyes and the berry on the ground which the blue tit is eyeing.

Glasgow seasonal residents

Autumn residents, mural, Glasgow

Close up of Autumn

Winter residents, mural

Spring

Summer fright!

This fun one of a taxi floating at the end of a bunch of colourful balloons is so detailed, the artist, Rogue-One, even painted the bricks onto the brick wall! Thank you to all the drivers who stopped to give me space to step back and photograph this taxi in the narrow lane way.

Balloon Taxi mural by Rogue-One, Glasgow

Alleyways, underpasses, whole sides of buildings, Glasgow is rich in street art, commemorating famous but also every day people or activities.

Girl with magnifying glass, by Smug (Sam Bates)

Celebrating sustainable energy, by Rogue-One and Art-Pistol, 2014 – Glasgow

Celebrating sustainable energy, by Rogue-One and Art-Pistol, Glasgow

Cranston House entrance

Are Ye Dancing,, Cranston House, Glasgow

“Dr Connelly I presume”

Billy Connolly 75th birthday , by Rogue-One, Glasgow

Glasgow’s tiger by Klingatron and Art Pistol

The Clutha bar, Glasgow celebrating local patrons and Architect Charles Rennie Macintosh

Woman in black, Glasgow

Woman in black, Glasgow

Spaceman by Recoat and Ali Wylie, Glasgow

Badminton player Kieran Merrilees as part of the 2014 Commonwealth games

Part of the 2014 Commonwealth games, outside Partick train station, Glasgow

Glasgow Royal College of Science & Technology

Glasgow Royal College of Science & Technology

Glasgow Royal College of Science & Technology

Glasgow Royal College of Science & Technology

St Enoch cradling her beloved Mungo, by Smug, Glasgow

Close up of Mungo clutching his mother

Saint Mungo’s robin which he brought back to life

Saint Mungo, by Smug – 2016

Saint Mungo mural, Glasgow

A history of transport mural

Squirrel near Kelvin River

Hand shadow puppetry mural, Glasgow

Hand shadow puppetry mural, Glasgow

I always love looking back when visiting a place or travelling generally, as it gives a different perspective or at times reveals a new mural. I wonder which mural will turn out to be your favourite.

If you enjoy street art too, I wrote blog posts on street art in George Town – Malaysia, in Santiago – Chile and in Reykjavik – Iceland.

– Anne

Reykjavik – the people’s voice

Today, day 2 in Iceland, we have a glacier cave tour planned. We have been told we don’t need to put our ski trousers which we brought with us as overclothes will be provided so we only add an extra, thin thermal layer. We arrive in plenty of time to meet our bus at the pick-up point and chat with a young couple waiting for a different tour. The sun is just barely up at 8:20am and it is freezing. Buses come and go calling out various names, some passengers are here, others not. Eventually, we start wondering if we are at the right meeting place. The young couple go off one way and we go another while new passengers arrive where we’d been standing. We find another meeting spot at the opposite end of the long curved hotel, about 400 metres away. People there are as confused as us, one elderly couple showing me their booking form and asking me if I had seen a bus with their tour logo – we hadn’t. I eventually return to Anthony who is at the first meeting spot and here comes that elderly couple’s bus. I run back to get them. After waiting 80 minutes and feeling frozen to the bone, we decide to return to the apartment and let Kristjan know. Apparently a bus came twice looking for us! We are obviously not cut out for organised tours. Kristjan is very disappointed for us but we had spotted some fantastic wall art on the way and I am now looking forward to discovering Reykjavik’s street art. It is all new to us so all’s good, we are more sorry for Kristjan.

A bit of research before I set off on my own, leaving Anthony behind to thaw out for a few hours.

I read about Council worker Jóhann “Jói” Jónmundsson, a warden of a tunnel’s toilets in the early 1990s, who used to dutifully clean and clear the passages of graffiti. Every time the walls were cleaned off, new graffiti would appear. One day, Joi noticed that some of the works were quality art and came up with a deal. He would allow artists to paint the walls so long as they followed certain rules: no violence and no porn. Since then, Reykjavik has had a few festivals that have delivered fabulous artworks such as the 2016 joint Berlin festival and Wall Poetry.

I love walking around cities, stumbling across unexpected gems, finding amazing artwork down little lanes or behind gates. I always learn so much about a place that way.

What became quickly apparent, from the artworks, whether wall art of sculptures, and from what I have read on various street signs, is how powerful the voice of the people is here. Icelanders not only speak up but have revolted on numerous occasions over recent generations. Of course, this free spirit and determination is not a recent attitude, descending from a people who fled Norway in the 800s and more recently decided to leave Denmark to form their own nation in 1944, it is in their DNA. Having read informative street signs on historic sites across the city and talking to Kristjan over the next few days – his knowledge of history, his own involvement in various issues, adding his account of the Pots and Pans Revolution (during the 2008-9 financial crisis when the people of Iceland rallied against bailing the banks out) to what I had read – is fascinating. I keep marvelling at how strong this tiny nation of just 330,000 inhabitants is and love how this tiny but mighty nation has fought for what it believes is right. Food for thought…

Here’s some of Reykjavik’s street art.

Reykjavik street art, Ægisgata St

Reykjavik street art, Ægisgata St (Close up)

Reykjavik street art, Ægisgata St

Reykjavik street art, Ægisgata St (Close up)


Corner Laugavegur/ Klapparstigur streets, Reykjavik

Street art, Reykjavik

Street art, Reykjavik

Hafnarstræti, Reykjavik

Hafnarstræti, Reykjavik

Wall poetry 2016, Reykjavik


I didn’t expect to find a bit of Brisbane here, but here it is. Photorealistic murals by Brisbane artist Guido van Helten based on photographic portraits of Icelandic actors:

Guido van Helten works, Vesturgata/Ananaust St, Reykjavik

Guido van Helten works, Vesturgata/Ananaust St, Reykjavik

Guido van Helten works, Vesturgata/Ananaust St, Reykjavik

Guido van Helten works, Vesturgata/Ananaust St, Reykjavik

Guido van Helten’s work, Reykjavik

Later that afternoon, Anthony and I meet up for a hot drink. Having walked the streets for the past 3 hours, there is just one shop I want to go into: a small pottery studio. It is good thing we don’t buy “things” anymore. I fell in love with Kogga Björgólfsdóttir’s works. It is also lucky we didn’t visit this studio later in our trip as I fear I might not have been able to resist bringing a little bit of Iceland back with me…

Kogga ceramics

Instead I left a little of my heart behind as you’ll understand in part 3 of 3 on our trip to Iceland.

– Anne

Feasting in George Town

We have not been seeking them out specifically, but once again, we are about to visit another UNESCO heritage listed site. George Town, on the Malaysian island and capital of the state of Penang, has had a very culturally diversified history and in July 2008 UNESCO formally recognised George Town’s unique architecture and cultural townscape by inscribing it as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

George Town went through tremendous transformation from its humble beginning in the late 18th century as the first British Straits settlement, from a swampy frontier town to a bustling trading post. George Town’s architecture reflects the various ethnicities that settled here over 2 centuries – Chinese, Indians, Arabs, Malays, Achehnese, Siamese, Burmese and Europeans each bringing their own building styles such as Indo-Malay palladian, Anglo-Indian and Sino-Anglo bungalows, neo-classical, art deco, and modern, together with mosques, churches, and Chinese and Indian temples.

In an effort to make George Town world heritage zone easily recognisable, as Seville did by planting orange trees along the streets within their world heritage zone, the “Marking George Town” competition was launched by the Penang State Government in 2009. It encouraged innovative ideas in art and design for public spaces in George Town. Out of all the local and international entries, Sculptureatwork triumphed with its design concept of ‘voices from the people’, a series of 52 unique and humorous annecdotal illustrations of George Town’s colourful history in the form of iron rod sculptures, installed against the city’s building walls.

George Town Festival 2012 commissioned “Marking George Town” by Ernest Zacharevic, a young Lithuanian born artist from George Town, a project designed to turn the streets of George Town into an open air art gallery. His murals celebrate the living heritage of the city’s inhabitants.

“101 Lost Kittens” was originally a project by a group of artists working to install a dozen street art at various points within the George Town UNESCO World Heritage Site to raise awareness of the plight of stray animals and became part of George Town Festival 2013.

I have been looking forward to discovering George Town tomorrow, and didn’t expect to stumble across so much street art this evening on our way to dinner, a few minutes down the road from our hotel which is well outside the Unesco zone.

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George atown, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Anyone who knows me will be able to imagine my inexhaustible excitement, at each corner and discovery of a new piece of art, turning around, looking back and noticing another one tucked away down a small alley. The artworks themselves are wonderful. But it is the courage and foresight of both UNESCO and George Town council to support and encourage such artworks that warmed my heart. If only others around the world were so bold… I had a constant smile on my face, at seeing each clever and inspiring piece but also watching other people’s enjoyment. I get the same enjoyment observing nature, noticing the smallest detail, which is there for all to see, only if we take the time to stop and admire… Anthony enjoyed the street art too but spent most of his time patiently waiting for me to be ready to walk on, mostly enjoying the sparkle in my eyes he tells me 🙂

Shorn Hair sculpture, George Town, Penang

Shorn Hair sculpture, George Town, Penang


Cannon Street sculpture, George Town, Penang

Cannon Street sculpture, George Town, Penang

Boy on a chair - George Town, Penang

Boy on a chair – George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang

Procession sculpture, George Town, Penang

Procession sculpture, George Town, Penang

Anne giving this little girl a real fright, George Town, Penang

Anne giving this little girl a real fright, George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang (30cm tall)

Street art, George Town, Penang (30cm tall)

Huge mural about learning to speak Hokkien, George Town, Penang

Huge mural about learning to speak Hokkien, George Town, Penang

Too Narrow sculpture, George Town, Penang

Too Narrow sculpture, George Town, Penang


Lion Dance, George Town, Penang

Lion Dance, George Town, Penang

Storyteller sculpture, George Town. Penang

Storyteller sculpture, George Town. Penang

Kids on Bicycle, George Town, Penang

Kids on Bicycle, George Town, Penang

This one made me smile - George Town, Penang

This one made me smile – George Town, Penang

Skippy, George Town, Penang

Skippy, George Town, Penang

The Rat was painted after Skipyy - George Town, Penang

The Rat was painted after Skipyy – George Town, Penang

Love Me Like Your Fortune Cat - George Town, Penang

Love Me Like Your Fortune Cat – George Town, Penang

I Want Bao! - George Town, Penang

I Want Bao! – George Town, Penang

Cats & Humans Happily Living Together - George Town, Penang

Cats & Humans Happily Living Together – George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang

Boy on a Motorbike - George Town, Penang

Boy on a Motorbike – George Town, Penang

Nasi Kandar sculpture, George Town, Penang

Nasi Kandar sculpture, George Town, Penang

Bullock cart wheel sculpture, George Town, Penang

Bullock cart wheel sculpture, George Town, Penang

Little Boy with Pet Dinosaur - George Town, Penang

Little Boy with Pet Dinosaur – George Town, Penang

Gold Teeth sculpture, George Town, Penang

Gold Teeth sculpture, George Town, Penang

Tok tok Mee sculpture, George Town, Penang

Tok tok Mee sculpture, George Town, Penang

Jimmy Choo sculpture, George Town, Penang

Jimmy Choo sculpture, George Town, Penang

Trishaw Man, Ernest Zacharevic's last mural, George Town, Penang

Trishaw Man, Ernest Zacharevic’s last mural, George Town, Penang

We also visited a fantastic little museum. The first part was dedicated to the history of Penang, and the last part to 3D art. Here are a couple of fun examples.

Interactive 3D Museum, George Town, Panang

Interactive 3D Museum, George Town, Panang

Interactive 3D Museum, George Town, Panang

Interactive 3D Museum, George Town, Panang

Not only is the street art so joyous, but we both love talking to the locals, observing all the small businesses still thriving here such as the printmaker who still uses a massive 70 year old printing machine to print receipt books and ledgers for local businesses. I could easily have spent a week in George Town, loving its rich history, cultural diversity and architecture. We will just have to come back one day but for now, Kuala Lumpur is calling us as we need to get the bikes serviced and Streak fixed before our next leg – the new part installed in Chiang Mai didn’t fix my problem and came back the day we left Chiang Mai.

– Anne