Across North West Texas

We are greeted by a blue sky and sunshine after weathering tropical storm Bill, the second cyclone of the season originating in the Gulf of Mexico. Yesterday saw almost 4 inches or 10 centimetres of rain in Bob and Pam’s rain gauge. We leave Fort Worth having made new friends and learnt a little of its history and culture thanks to Bob and Pam.

As we leave, evidence of the downpour can be seen in the dirt and gravel washed onto the roads. Every river crossing we make has milk chocolate coloured water flowing strongly, the rivers have burst their banks over the surrounding flat areas.

We are riding on US287, a cross country route that has turned out to be an easy 4 lane highway with a 75 mph speed limit. This means we are about the slowest, just keeping up! So no potholes but we still have to concentrate as the traffic, including trucks and mobile homes stream by.

Trucks just fly past us.......

Trucks just fly past us…….

Our first fuel stop, outside Wichita Falls, is just across the road from a large Harley Davidson dealer, a great place for a coffee break.

Motorcycles only past this point.

just for us bikers.

Only motorbikes beyond this point, what a great idea that we have not seen before. We wonder about the vast interior, with every possible accessory for the bike and the person surround us. Good thing we have BMW’s. In the coffee lounge we meet Richard and Helen, a local couple, Helen is the editor of the local HOG chapter’s newsletter. Richard, who will be 80 in a month or so, has just traded two wheels for three and has a beautiful new HD trike.

Harley Davidson handbag!

Harley Davidson handbag!


Richard and Helen with their HD trike

Richard and Helen with their HD trike


They are a lovely couple and the next thing we know, we are invited to lunch with them. A coffee break turns into a three hour stop. This is the joy of travelling. We spend lunchtime learning more about the USA, its people and its politics.

Texas rolls by, we pass many nodding donkeys producing oil, gas well pads and cattle, all Texas staples and the basis of economic development in Texas. While we were in Fort Worth, we would see pairs of the latest F35 fighters wheeling in the sky above. The planes are built by Lockheed Martin at their Fort Worth plant. These fighters will be seen in coming years in both the UK and Australia. Business in Texas has come a long way since the original cattle drives up the Chisholm and other trails from Texas to the Kansas railheads.

BNSF train in Texas heading west

BNSF train in Texas heading west

We have not set a schedule, so our first night turns out to be in Childress. As we are preparing Streak and Storm for the night, Anne notices that Streak, her bike, is missing a bolt, which explains a sound Anne heard while riding and thought was be a stone from a short dirt stretch of road under repair. This missing bolt is one of those holding on the upper crash bars. We are directed to ‘Lukes’ a surplus store in town. Here we find a store with everything from metric bolts in our size to cowhides with the brands cut out!

Luke's Surplus store since the 1960's

Luke’s Surplus store since the 1960’s


We start to see Route 66, the famous historical road from Chicago to Los Angles, parallelling Interstate 40 as we move past Amarillo. This two lane road became known for being the route that, during the great depression of the 1930’s, many in the mid west used as a route to a new life in California. Replaced by Interstate 40 during the 1960’s and 70’s, the road and the bypassed towns lost much of their passing traffic and related income. Some towns seem to have been more affected than others. We ride through Vega, Anne spots a couple of interesting cafes as lunch possibles, we circle back make a make a stop at the Hickory Inn Cafe.

Hickory Inn Cafe in Vega TX

Hickory Inn Cafe in Vega TX

We enter to find the place full of locals having lunch. We grab a table and at the next table are a couple of lawmen, the local sheriff and a Texas Ranger. Only this morning I came across a web page on the Texas Rangers and learnt about their badges, made from Mexican Silver Peso coins, what a coincidence. Texas Ranger Martin T. Hood and Oldham County Sheriff David Medlin were happy to pose for photos with us They told us they had first worked together for over 28 years.

Oldham County Sheriff David Medlin and Texas Ranger Martin  T. Hood

Oldham County Sheriff David Medlin and Texas Ranger Martin T. Hood


Martin T. Hood, Texas Ranger

Martin T. Hood, Texas Ranger

We press on, in the next town we cross the midpoint between Chicago and LA. The total distance of Route 66 is 2,277 miles or 3,666 kilometres.

Midpoint of Route 66.

Midpoint of Route 66.

Soon after we cross the border into New Mexico, whose number plates read ‘Land of Enchantment’ as they did in 1980 when we first visited and fell love with the place. We are looking forward to our time here.

New Mexico - Land of Enchantment

New Mexico – Land of Enchantment

When we finally reached the USA I started to think that we would have seen the last of the new, interesting and unusual and that blog content would be drastically reduced. How wrong I was, the last couple of days have provided a wealth of new experiences and pleasure for us. Enjoy.

– Anthony

All is big in Texas

We have arrived at our hotel in Clear Lake, Houston, having dodged all the storm showers on the way.

Storm clouds are building

Storm clouds are building

Can we keep avoiding the rain?!

Can we keep avoiding the rain?!

Time to lock up the bikes and take our day pack from our top box and as we are going out, I also take my ‘town’ shoes and handbag out of my pannier and check-in. It’s been a long hot day, we are hot and sweaty and the receptionist gives a bottle of cold water each. Too many bits to hold onto, I sit down while Anthony does the paperwork. Somehow, by the time we get to our room, I am missing the bag with my shoes. Must have dropped them on the way to the room or left them on the couch. I retrace my steps – they are nowhere to be found. This is crazy!! I asked reception a number of times during our stay – no luck! Shoes I bought in London get picked up at a hotel in Houston….?! Oh well, a girl, always a girl, good excuse to go shopping sometime.

I have visited Houston about 15 times but have always been too busy with my art shows and visiting friends to do any sight seeing. Every trip, I have driven past the Johnson Space Centre and promised myself I would take time out to visit it one day. This time, I will make it happen. Especially as most of our friends have escaped Houston, or us?!, and we will miss seeing them. It feels very strange not to be seeing them – sad even, but suddenly, we don’t have enough time to spend a couple of weeks in Houston.

Luckily, we do see Deborah and Larry, especially as it is thanks to them that I held annual art shows in Houston over many years. We have not seen them for 3 years now but it feels like it was only yesterday that we last saw them. They treat us to 2 great dinners and good conversation. It is very interesting to talk them about the current political climate in the US and hear their views on Obama and the current nominations for the next president.

With Larry and Deborah, Houston

With Larry and Deborah, Houston


Friday, we walk over to the space centre. When we go sightseeing, we never take the bikes as we don’t want to walk around with all riding gear. Of course, we are the only ones walking again.

What a fantastic day at the Johnson Space Centre. Seeing various exhibits, rockets, capsules. I have always found space travel awe inspiring. When you think what the pioneers did, with the technology available to them!!! They were so brave, and so ingenious – they had to be! Sadly, our society has become more and more risk adverse and talking to one ex-Nasa mission manager confirmed our view that this risk aversion is stifling space activity.

Johnson Space Centre

Johnson Space Centre

Used to simulate the extreme cold in space

Used to simulate the extreme cold in space

Nasa space vehicle mockup facility

Nasa space vehicle mockup facility

Nasa space vehicle mockup facility

Nasa space vehicle mockup facility

The new Orion spacecraft being developed

The new Orion spacecraft being developed

Saturn V rocket

Saturn V rocket

Saturn V rocket

Saturn V rocket

Saturn V rocket capsule

Saturn V rocket capsule

Pallasite, or oriented meteorite, which inspired the shapes of Mercury, Gemini & Apollo capsules and Orion spacecraft

Pallasite, or oriented meteorite, which inspired the shapes of Mercury, Gemini & Apollo capsules and Orion spacecraft

On the way back to the hotel, we decide to walk into the sports physio building we had noticed and see whether someone can have a look at Anthony’s ankle. The verdict is that there is still some inflammation and he recommended that we either see a GP who would most likely recommend taking anti-inflammatory tablets or try the foot and joint specialist upstairs. Up we go but unfortunately, it is Friday afternoon and the waiting room has a dozen people. We’ll try again in Denver where we’ll be spending more time.

We get back in time for a quick shower before Deborah and Larry pick us up for another lovely evening and delicious home cooked dinner: we had never eaten halibut cheeks before and they were delicious!! Halibut cheeks have an unusual texture, a bit like stingray, although stingray is finer.

The next morning, we wake up to a very dark, windy and wet day.

We are leaving Clear Lake, Houston today, sometime...

We are leaving Clear Lake, Houston today, sometime…


We have breakfast with Deborah and her daughter Emily. We learn a bit more about American culture and laws. Emily is a lawyer and works with an insurance company providing legal advice and representation on 2nd amendment rights (the right to bear arms). Basically, people who own guns can take out an insurance policy against their mishandling their guns!! For example, someone may have just fired their gun in a certain situation in their home against someone, or they may have walked into a building that prohibits carrying a weapon while carrying a concealed weapon or someone with a concealed weapon carry permit may have accidentally exposed their weapon. Taking out such insurance means they can call this insurance hotline and get immediate advice and potentially legal representation under this insurance. While we’re chatting over breakfast, Emily’s phone goes off. “….. What is your emergency?” says Emily as she leaves the table… The thought of people around us in the breakfast area potentially carrying weapons suddenly churns my stomach.

We had planned on catching up with our friend Ginger at lunchtime and moving hotels to the north side so that we could have dinner with Jennifer and Nicole, but this message changes our plans:

We are not leaving Houston today now!

We are not leaving Houston today now!

We decide to stay put. And hopefully reschedule our catchups to tomorrow. This gives us another day for photo upload, hand washing etc. and shopping!! I have nicer shoes now but it still baffles (and bugs) me that I could have lost a pair of shoes here. Very disappointing…

We wake up Sunday morning to a beautiful bright blue sky. It is not long before the storm clouds build up again though. We check the radar and pick our departure time carefully to slip between various forecast storms.

Leaving Clear Lake, the skies are clear for now...

Leaving Clear Lake, the skies are clear for now…

We catch up with Jennifer and Noah on the north side of Houston for coffee and luckily, Anthony keeps a watchful on the sky. Suddenly, it is time to leave before the next band of showers reaches us.

With Jennifer and Noah, Houston

With Jennifer and Noah, Houston

Heading out of Woodlands, Texas, leaving one lot of storms behind us

Heading out of Woodlands, Texas, leaving one lot of storms behind us

Heading north out of Woodlands, Houston

Heading north out of Woodlands, Houston

It’s been a very unusual trip to Houston for me – not filled with the usual art show activities and missing many of our friends who were out of town during our visit – Debra, Mario, Candace, Jimmy, Nicole, Ginger, Amy, you will just have to come and visit us in Australia. But it was lovely to catch up with those who didn’t escape in time for the 2slowspeeds’ visit!!!

Off we head to Fort Worth next. We spend the day unbelievably successfully dodging storm showers! This is a big state in a big country with big clouds!!

Statue of Sam Houston on I-45, Huntsville, Texas

Statue of Sam Houston on I-45, Huntsville, Texas


Big clouds in Texas

Big clouds in Texas

Confidence is still high we will avoid the rain

Confidence is still high we will avoid the rain

Grain silo in Saginaw, Texas

Grain silo in Saginaw, Texas

We arrive at Bob and Pam’s outside Fort Worth. What started as us visiting a business associate of Anthony’s ended up as us leaving good friends by the time we left. What a wonderful welcome!! And a stunning home. We spent 3 fantastic days with Pam and Bob, discovering Fort Worth’s historic centre, city centre, a few museums and generally chatting for several hours over numerous meals. We gave their washing machine a good workout too. It was particularly interesting learning more about the current political and social climate, the various candidates for next year’s election, certain US policies etc. We appreciate their openness in sharing their views with us which helps us better understand this country.

Leddy's boot store, Fort Worth

Leddy’s boot store, Fort Worth

Leddy's boot store, Fort Worth

Leddy’s boot store, Fort Worth

Leddy's boots, Fort Worth

Leddy’s boots, Fort Worth

Fort Worth

Fort Worth

Fort Worth

Fort Worth

Long horn

Long horn

Fort Worth long horns, Texas

Fort Worth long horns, Texas


Downtown Fort Worth

Downtown Fort Worth

Kids having fun in downtown Fort Worth

Kids having fun in downtown Fort Worth

With Bob and Pam outside the Fort Worth theatre

With Bob and Pam outside the Fort Worth theatre

We were originally going to spend 2 days with them, but this made us decide to spend another day:

We are not leaving Fort Worth today now

We are not leaving Fort Worth today now


Glad we decided to stay put in Fort Worth today

Glad we decided to stay put in Fort Worth today

The tropical storm that hit Houston was making its way to us and Fort Worth ended up right in the eye of the storm. What better place to sit out this storm – thank you Pam and Bob.

Glad and grateful we waited out Tropical Storm Bill at Pam and Bob's

Glad and grateful we waited out Tropical Storm Bill at Pam and Bob’s

We leave Fort Worth this morning with clear blue skies.

– Anne

It makes me smile

As I have ridden over the last week or so, a few sights caught my eye and have brought a smile to my face. Here they are, while I buy myself a day or so to finish my post on Houston!!

The smiley made me smile

The smiley made me smile

Clever cows, in Texas

Clever cows, in Texas

Love the graffiti - only in America!

Love the graffiti – only in America!

Riding at 100kms/hr without a helmet is so cool if nothing goes wrong...

Riding at 100kms/hr without a helmet is so cool if nothing goes wrong…

Policeman in Texas

Policeman in Texas

Another quirky sign

Another quirky sign


Police patroling downtown

Police patroling downtown

As they say, little things please little minds 🙂

– Anne

Welcome to Texas

Our departure from Mexico is with an escort. We had seen little police presence up till this point, just the occasional patrol vehicle and a couple of checkpoints closer to the USA border, but as we by pass Nuevo Laredo to cross the border, we find we are travelling with a three vehicle convoy of military vehicles.

Mexican military  armored car

Mexican military armored car

We have been reminded from time to time by friends during our stay in Mexico of the dangers that exist and we need to be careful. In our case, we have sailed through without incident, which could make us, and those who follow us, overconfident but we are reminded of the risk by the police shootout with drug cartel members while we were in Mexico that left over 40 people dead and the two robberies on someone working close to where we stayed in Mexico City that serious crime does exist, so we should be alert but not fearful.

We are approaching the border and we can see the USA over the Rio Grande river with the building’s American flag. We make our way towards the border, which seems to have a number of crossing points and it is not clear which one we need to follow. We find ourselves in the VIP lane, but sadly have to be diverted out through the concrete barriers as our VIP status, in our minds, is not recognised here.

We had to decline this lovely man's offer of floor mats and cross

We had to decline this lovely man’s offer of floor mats and cross

Entry into the USA is easier than we had thought. After stopping at a kiosk, we are told to park past the customs inspection area to do our bike paperwork. As we ride through, past drug detection dog checks and vehicles being pulled over, we realise that we could just keep on riding and ignore paperwork process completely. Process seems to be built around US and Mexican citizens crossing regularly, which is paperwork free. Turns out we do not need a temporary import permit or the EPA document we had acquired as this only applies if we are staying in the USA, not just visiting.

We ride out of the customs and immigration area, we are in the USA after more than 11 months of travel, we have good roads ahead, we let out a huge shout, we have made it here! Couple of sets of traffic lights and we are on I35 North. Smooth tar and multiple lanes greet us as we ride north. The first thing that strikes me as we pass truck after truck and see Union Pacific locomotives pulling double stacked container trains, is a that this transport is a measure of level of business activity in the USA. As we got closer to the Mexican border, we saw increased business traffic, but here in the USA we can see a much higher level of economic development that is then reflected in people’s living standards and employment opportunities.

Double decker trains in Texas, Union Pacific.

Double decker trains in Texas, Union Pacific.

Onward we travel, some roads under our wheels, sun shining, as usual we are in good spirits we ride further into Texas. We are surprised at the amount of green that surrounds our journey until we remember that last month, Texas had the wettest May on record. Again we see a different landscape to the one we expected.

Our first night in Texas is outside San Antonio. We are staying at a Hilton near Seaworld in the middle of Texas – I thought Seaworlds were all by the sea. The hotel is filled with families and we get our first exposure to making s’mores. These are tasty nighttime campfire snacks made with toasted marshmallows, chocolate and biscuits or crackers as they are referred to here. The hotel sells kits with skewers to make your own. Casey at reception kindly gives us a pack for free to experiment with.

Casey giving us a do-it-yourself s'mores pack

Casey giving us a do-it-yourself s’mores pack

A number of fire pits surrounded by seats are setup at the hotel so we approach a family for assistance. A six year old, face covered in chocolate and marshmallow, quickly explains the process and we are away. They are tasty and we look forward to more s’mores, maybe on the 4th of July?

Learning to make s'mores

Learning to make s’mores

The finished s'more.

The finished s’more.


While trying to resolve Anne’s bike problem, Anne had found a BMW dealership in Austin which was willing to investigate her bike’s situation. Drew has been so helpful in following up with BMW in both the USA and Berlin, Germany. With the current BMW Motorrad recall for the larger bikes, there were just no free slots available in Austin until the end of June, which would not work for our schedule. We wanted to visit Drew to say thanks for all the help he has given us so a quick side trip to Austin was on the cards. If you are in the Austin area and need some servicing on you BMW or Triumph, do contact Drew Cooper at Lone Star BMW/ Triumph or BMW Motorcycles of Austin as they are being rebadged.

Texas highway interchange

Texas highway interchange


Austin skyline

Austin skyline


With Drew Cooper, Lone Star BMW Motorcycles of Austin, Tx

With Drew Cooper, Lone Star BMW Motorcycles of Austin, Tx


We replace my Draggin Jeans with a new pair, the old pair had reached the end of their life, five continents, many 10’s of thousands of kilometres and two accidents. I think I have my money’s worth out of these.

Anthony's patched up Dragon Jeans are ready to be given away

Anthony’s patched up Dragon Jeans are ready to be given away

On our way to Houston, we stop at La Grange, a small town that has a great feel: we smell the cut hay, hear the birds singing as we walk from our hotel past farm machinery for sale and even a Walmart with its own pedestrian crossing that goes nowhere. Everyone else is driving, but we don’t want to ride with all the motorcycle gear to dinner, so we negotiate long grass and gravel, probably to strange looks from locals, I do not think anybody walks here. It is a very pleasant town and a real change for us from the big cities – we enjoyed our time there.

Pedestrian crossing to nowhere in La Grange, Tx

Pedestrian crossing to nowhere in La Grange, Tx


Crossing the Colorado River at La Grange

Crossing the Colorado River at La Grange


Storm clouds are building

Storm clouds are building


Can we keep avoiding the rain?!

Can we keep avoiding the rain?!


Having dodged a few storms, we make it into Houston where we will spend a couple of days.

– Anthony

Heading to Laredo

Time to leave Mexico City and say goodbye to Anna, Alberto, Gloria and Isabel.

We are ready to leave Mexico City but can't take Isabel and Gloria

We are ready to leave Mexico City but can’t take Isabel and Gloria

Today is election day in Mexico, so many roads in Mexico City are closed and Anthony wrestles with the GPS constantly working out a new route. We finally get onto the road out of Mexico City and are lucky to run under an overpass for a while, as…. it is raining!! We don’t get too wet and are soon out of Mexico City and into clear blue skies, but it is cold – in fact we have been cold the whole time in Mexico City. 13 degrees in the morning, up to 17 during the day!!!

The rain clouds are finally breaking up 90' after leaving Anna and Alberto's

The rain clouds are finally breaking up 90′ after leaving Anna and Alberto’s


After a couple of hours, we pull over at a petrol station to get a hot drink and warm up. We meet Daniel, from Mexico City. He is on his way to Alaska and today is his first day! I am not sure who was more excited – him or us, for him. Then when we stop for lunch, we meet another biker, Herman, from San Luis Potosi. We spend a hour chatting with Herman. We love the motorcycle fraternity. There always seem to be an instant connection. And we love how traveling on motorcycles enables us to meet and talk to all sorts of people. Car drivers are intrigued and talk to us. This reminds me of a most interesting conversation I had with young Gloria, at Alberto and Anna’s: she asked me so many questions about our travels, such as what happens when you are hungry, what if you couldn’t find any food, where do you sleep, how do you know where you’ll sleep, what happens when you run out of petrol. How can someone so young be so insightful?!

Daniel from Mexico City heading to Alaska

Daniel from Mexico City heading to Alaska

Strawberry fields at 2,000 metres high

Strawberry fields at 2,000 metres high

Lunch stop - hot salsas and fresh pineaple juice before lunch arrives

Lunch stop – hot salsas and fresh pineaple juice before lunch arrives

We meet Herman from San Luis Potosi at our lunch stop

We meet Herman from San Luis Potosi at our lunch stop


There is a supermarket near the hotel so I head off after checking to buy some snacks for our dinner. I thought I would get Anthony a beer as a surprise, but that was not possible:

No alcohol can purchased on election week end in Mexico

No alcohol can purchased on election week end in Mexico


From San Luis Potosi, we head to Monterrey …
Leaving San Luis Potosi at 7am

Leaving San Luis Potosi at 7am

Riding through San Luis Potosi is starting to feel like the US

Riding through San Luis Potosi is starting to feel like the US

Heading to Monterrey, Mexico, an hour out of San Luis Potosi

Heading to Monterrey, Mexico, an hour out of San Luis Potosi

Loving the early morning light

Loving the early morning light

We're on the road again and loving it!

We’re on the road again and loving it!

Stunning mountain range an hour and a half out of San Luis Potosi

Stunning mountain range an hour and a half out of San Luis Potosi

Restaurants along the road to Monterrey

Restaurants along the road to Monterrey

Half way to Monterrey

Half way to Monterrey

Another Mexican police check

Another Mexican police check

Love the police shelter

Love the police shelter

Coming into Monterrey

Coming into Monterrey

Coming into Monterrey

Coming into Monterrey

On the outsgkirts of Monterrey

On the outsgkirts of Monterrey

We head straight to … BMW. Streak has developed a squeak. From what sounded like a slight seat groan as I sat on it when we left Mexico City, it has gradually sounded worse. On the road to and then once in San Luis Potosi, we both had a good look and both agreed that it was coming from the suspension area but sounded like plastic squeak rather than metal. An over enthusiastic clean at BMW may have removed any lubrication maybe? We did some research online, sent off a query to one of the motorcycle forums, got a response and left confident the next morning. But as there was a BMW at Monterrey, I wanted someone to confirm there was no structural problem. There we met Juan Carlos, a BMW customer, who became our interpreter. BMW immediately took Streak away, confirmed our suspicions, lubricated the area, ran a diagnostic test on the whole bike and told us we were good to go but will have to have the shock absorbers replaced at our next service. What a relief.

Monterrey BMW dealershsip

Monterrey BMW dealershsip

Juan Carlos  at BMW Monterrey

Juan Carlos at BMW Monterrey

We then head to our hotel which is on the otherside of town, for an easy exit the next morning: Juan Carlos offers to show us the way which is very kind and helpful so we follow him until we are safely on the right road to our hotel. We have our last meal in Mexico in a small restaurant close to the hotel. We are presented with free dips, salsa and chips, as is the tradition here. Those salsas can be so hot that one tiny corner dipped is usually plenty hot enough for me. This one comes with a lovely smooth guacamole. Anthony tries it first, taking a good scoop of it onto a corn chip. Eeek, that is green chilli, not guacamole and it is HOT!!!!

Our ride from Monterrey to Laredo was stunning and so enjoyable. But maybe it was because it reminded us of Cape Town, where we lived from 83 to 85… And the temperature was perfect: a balmy 23 degrees at 7am. As we go through a hilly area, a large cat comes out and runs across the road right in front of Anthony, close enough for him to hoot at it to scare it off the road quickly. It is not a house cat but a bobcat. By the time I get to it, it is amongst the rocks, looking straight at me so I get a good look at it too. Pity I didn’t manage to get to photograph it…

New trucks heading for the US from Monterrey

New trucks heading for the US from Monterrey

Another glorious morning as we leave Monterrey

Another glorious morning as we leave Monterrey


An hour north of Monterrey

An hour north of Monterrey


An hour north of Monterrey, reminds us of Cape Town again

An hour north of Monterrey, reminds us of Cape Town again

Mexican highways have these signs and pull over areas every few kilometres

Mexican highways have these signs and pull over areas every few kilometres


More new trucks heading to the US

More new trucks heading to the US

We are now approaching the USA – the number of trucks increases and the road surface resembles good quality US concrete roads. We have really enjoyed Mexico, Mexicans and Mexican food. Definitely a place to return to one day…

– Anne