Khujand to Dushanbe

We leave our hotel in Khujand at 6.30am and by 7am it is 30 degrees!! Lucky we will be climbing over a couple of passes today so it should be cooler – we even have our sweaters handy. I have had butterflies about today’s ride for sometime: the thought of going through 2 tunnels over 5kms long, and a shorter but pitch dark one still makes me gasp for air. The other reason I have been stressing out about today’s ride is because Streak has been behaving eratically since we left Almaty: the engine just cuts out when running slowly. That means when slowing down for tight turns or traffic, at traffic lights, when pulling up to park basically at all those potentially awkward times. I just hope it doesn’t die completely inside one of those tunnels!!

I am relieved to say now that as of this afternoon, Streak has been fixed. More on that later.

The scenery over the 2 mountain passes over 3200 m altitude is breathtaking and the road is good. Traffic isn’t too bad, but it can be very slow at times as overtaking is a challenge and the number of broken down cars and trucks makes it interesting at times. It is no problem for locals who regularly overtake, ever so slowly, on blind bends. The tunnels were ‘interesting’ as one says!!! The first one, the Shakhristan tunnel was completed in 2012 and the famous Anzob tunnel, in 2016. That one used to be known as the Tunnel of Death. While it no longer warrants that title today as the road had been fixed, massive potholes filled, dim lighting installed and there are vents so you won’t die of carbon monoxide poisoning anymore, but it certainly did feel like the tunnel of death as we entered it: an old truck was just exiting as we arrived, leaving the entrance filled with thick choming fumes… I always let Anthony lead when going through tunnels as it makes it easier for me to follow – I find it quite disorientating otherwise. Luckily, we had heard of the pitch dark one and its cows!! Yes, cows live in that tunnel – they’re not silly cows, the tunnels are cooler than outside.

Leaving Khujand

Typical road in this part of Tajikistan, cotton fields on the right

Workers carrying their daily melon to work

Why so many part built and boarded up new houses in this region?

Khujand-Dushanbe

Another broken down vehicule

Khujand-Dushanbe

Fruit sellers on the pass

We have just ridden the switchbacks across the river before going back up again – Khujand-Dushanbe

The dry apricot seller was proud to sit in Streak

Khujand-Dushanbe

Khujand-Dushanbe

Khujand-Dushanbe

An unnerving situation – a car has driven off the road and people are searching the river

Part of another fabulous CCCP mural

Part of another fabulous CCCP mural

Khujand-Dushanbe

Khujand-Dushanbe

Khujand-Dushanbe

About to enter the Anzob tunnel – notice the fumes!

Getting through those 3 main tunnels was such a relief. I was so glad to make it to the otherside of them – my reference in my last post.

I made it through the 2 long tunnels!!

Khujand-Dushanbe

Khujand-Dushanbe


Must learn to take better selfies!


All the tunnels were much smaller and manageable. The scenery once again kept changing and was stunning. It was such a great ride.

Down from 3200 to 1500m altitude here

All partly built houses 20kms north of Dushanbe – future weekenders?


We get to our hotel in Dushanbe after our 300 km ride very hot and tired – the extreme heat takes a lot out of us. It only went down to 25 degrees at the high passes and we never needed those sweaters. We are told it must be over 40 degrees but the authorities don’t like to admit to such high temperatures. First priority is to cool down, shower, change and get some lunch. The restaurant “300 metres down the road” is really more like a kilometre each way. In this heat, it feels like a lot more. Fed and watered, it is time to look for a mechanic for Streak. We have two potential mechanics in Dushanbe – motorcycle forums are so full of helpful information! So we decide to get a taxi to take us to both. The first one we go to, Bike-House, we feel comfortable with straight away and decide not to bother to seeing the other but return first thing the following morning – we could not be bothered riding again that day so late in the afternoon!

When we get to the Bike House, Aziz get to work on my bike immediately. First thing he does is start it up – it dies of course which is great, there’s nothing worse than reporting a problem and finding you cannot duplicate it when you want to – and dies again as it should, perfect. He found 4 problems!!

1. A split air intake pipe
2. Cracked casing where the Scottoiler vacuum pressure pipe goes in
3. Pipe that had at sometime possibly been reinstalled twisted, we could see the small fractures
4. Faulty throttle sensor, very loose, we swapped with Anthony’s and tested ok

He and his colleagues made me feel good by their reaction when I told them I had ridden with Streak in that condition from Almaty, 1550 kms away. Going down the steep mountain pass hairpin bends required quite a bit of throttle and brake work together.

Aziz was fantastic. At one point we considered either trying to Fedex the throttle sensor part so wait however many days here for it, or just soldier on until Istanbul. But Aziz was not going to stop working until Streak was fixed. 4 hours later, Streak is fixed – with the throttle sensor, Aziz did a ‘Tajik’ fix!… – well enough anyway to move on.

Streak being fixed at the Bike-House, Dushanbe

The first of 4 problems found – split rubber pipe

Ecstatic Aziz, aka Copperfield, and Anne

We highly recommend the Bike-House Dushanbe, Druzhby Narodov Street, Dushanbe, Tadzjikistan, Latitude: 38.57002 | Longitude: 68.81145.

Riding Streak away from the Bike-House back to the hotel was wonderful! Streak feels like a new bike. I feel great. And drivers here are the best so far.

The rest of our time in Dushanbe is spent doing washing, downloading/uploading photos, shopping at the Sultoni Kabir market for empty containers to have extra fuel for crossing Uzbekistan which still has a bad shortage of fuel, visiting the Auchan hypermarket for more snacks, resting in the very comfortable Lotte Palace hotel (the best hotel on our trip so far) and best of all, making the most of good internet to call family.

Our opulent hotel!!

A chandelier in our hotel!!

Our hotel garden

Mural on the side of a fabric factory next to our hotel, Dushanbe


Off to see our friends in Samarkand next – no idea how long that will take – all depends on the next border crossing. Til then, thanks again for all your comments!!

– Anne

23 comments on “Khujand to Dushanbe

  1. So sorry to read of all the trials and tribulations with Streak . So pleased she has been restored to her former glory . You are really brave Anne , those tunnels were certainly challenging and you did it . Amazing insight you provide us with . Cattle , cars and potholes, then the stunning scenery. take care and rest up in your hotel ! you are doing well . Lots of love xx

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  2. As usual you both manage to find the good in people. It’s the little people who always seem to be proud of what they do and where they do it. I’m glad you both survived the fume filled tunnels too. Onwards ever onwards to the next adventure !
    Keep safe and throttle on.

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  3. What majestic scenery! Never seen anything quite like it. Can well understand your elation on emerging from those ghastly tunnels. Bravo tiots. xx

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  4. Beautiful countryside even being so stark and isolated. I hope you took the Govia tag for those huge tunnels……Great monologue again: love following your trip as always. Stay upright xoxo

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  5. Love your photos:)) so glad Streak is now fixed and that you have another person to add to your ever increasing circle of friends! Super that you were able to chill out in such a comfortable hotel. What a fantastic trip, and blog xxx

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