Jun 10 2025

Sicily; first contact

The morning light has woken and out of the cabin window a view of the west coast of Sicily appears as we head northwards towards Palermo. Towering cliffs, interspersed with towns and villages greet us as we wander up onto the deck. I am surprised at the density of human habitation along the coastline.

As usual Anne has done all the research and I have not even looked in detail at the maps! I should not be surprised. Only six motorbikes on this ship, two Tunisians heading for Salerno, the ship’s next stop after Palermo and Mauro and Stefania whom we spent a pleasant time with last night are also Salerno bound. They have invited us to stay, alas not this trip with its time constraints. As we prepare to disembark Mauro and Stefania appear on the car deck to say goodbye having got past security to do so. It was such a nice gesture, I am sure we will meet again.

Mauro and Stefania saying goodbye on the car deck

Immigration is a stamp in the passport for me, Customs asks Anne if she has any cigarettes, twice, and we are off in 15 minutes. There is no signage in the dock area as to where the exit is but we are soon out and riding in Palermo’s morning rush hour. As I have waxed lyrical about understanding local driving conditions, after Algeria’s gentle traffic dance, this seems more like a much faster tempo, and yes it is. Within a couple of minutes I get my first, and only nudge from behind. We will have to up our game here and we do. Soon we are heading out of town westwards along the Autostrada.

Our first break is at Castellammare del Golfo, a small seaside town. We park and walk down which, in the heat with all our motorcycle gear, will not be something we will aim to emulate too often. At a local cafe we meet a Australian couple, he lives here now and get a few local tips.

Lunch is taken near Ribera, where the waitress has used Google translate on her phone to show us the gluten free options, clever use of technology. On to our first destination in Sicily outside Agrigento where we were plan to visit the “Valley of the Temples”. Surprisingly for me this is not Roman architecture but Greek. It is the largest archaeological park in Europe and of course a UNESCO World Heritage site. Since all the temples are in a line the round trip is some 5km. Not for us with all our gear but we do end up covering a fair portion. I am not sure why it is called a “Valley” since it is on a ridge, but gives spectacular views to the Mediterranean

Tourist crowds at the Valley of the Temples

Temple of Concordia with Fallen Icarus bronze by Igor Mitoraj in the foreground

At breakfast that morning we met an English couple who recommend that we visit Villa Romana del Casale, a partially restored Roman villa with many of the mosaics in their original position. Our journey takes us on the SS640 a nice dual lane highway inland when on a straight stretch of road, we arrive at the scene of an accident. One car in the central reservation and an SUV on its side leaking fluids over the autostrada. Debris is scattered for some distance before. We head to see if help is needed as we are third on scene. Luckily both drivers are out and ok. Airbags and seatbelts make all the difference. I am very glad our motorcycle first aid kit and the course we took many years ago were not tested.

Onward to Villa Romana del Casale after a quick lunch and a reminder that we are back in the land of the tourist from the prices charged. I have to say that even though after a while I found the scale of the place and the number of mosaics a little overwhelming it really is impressive to see them on the floors where they were laid down over 1600 years ago in the 4th Century AD. We are lucky that an 11th Century landslide buried the site and protected the mosaics for until the 20th century when archaeologists started to excavate the villa site. The largest mosaic is some 60m. / 200ft long. The time and effort, not to mention finding the artisans with the appropriate skills within a much smaller population than exists today. I have read that in Roman times Italy may have had a population of between 7 and 14 million. I am glad we came and saw the mosaics in-situ. A little off the main roads but worth the detour.

The small hunt banquet under the red tent

Part of 60m long Ambulatory of the Great Hunt

We continue to Catania where we get our first glimpse of Mt Etna from probably 50km. / 30 ml. away. It does look impressive and we will visit Mt Etna after a weeks break back in the UK. YES we are leaving Streak and Storm for eight days to return to the UK for a nephews wedding. Normal service will resume later this month.

– Anthony

Jun 5 2025

Tunisia

After my father died last year, my drive to retrace his steps in Algeria and Tunisia during his time there as a young officer in 1950 was not the same as I was not going to be able to share our experiences with him. Added to this, the ferry crossing to Algeria was ridiculously expensive, so we briefly thought we’d revisit Morocco instead and got travel insurance for North Africa for 3 weeks. It just didn’t feel right though. Algeria was calling and so was Tunis. So after Algeria, we just had 5 days left for Tunisia.

My father had passed officer training with such high marks that he was able to chose his posting. In his own words, he wanted an adventure so picked the posting the furthest away: Algiers. After some time there, he asked for 10 days off. Unbeknownst to his superiors at the time, he planned to leave Algeria to visit an officer school friend of his who was stationed in Tunis, in charge of a “rest place for deserving military staff”!! My father was therefore treated as a deserving military superior! Is this where my sense of adventure comes from?

This trip to Algeria and then Tunis was to retrace some of his steps and possibly recreate some of his photographs.

Searching in French in Google and using Google maps and earth was helpful in finding the 3 places he photographed in Tunisia. We went to all 3 of course – only 1, in Gammarth, was a disappointment as they would not allow us in – it was where my father’s friend was posted and therefore my father stayed while in Tunis but was now a fancy 5 star hotel – when we arrived, they said it was forbidden to let us in as we were not staying there. There was no one we could talk to, to sway them. It was pretty gutting.

Where my dad spent a week in Gammarth, Tunis with his friend

The best view we got from climbing up the outside!

We went to another place which I knew from his journal he’d visited but was now a restaurant. Wrong – it was still an army base, definitely no restaurant – so absolutely no photographs. A military police sergeant even followed us for ages as we walked away to make sure we didn’t sneak a photo! Well I had done so before we got to the gate. I could sense my father’s pride and cheek.

My father would have walked from this army base to the Belvédère for a view of the city and refreshments.

In my dad’s footseps at the Belvédère, Tunis

This felt very special being there.

Onto Carthage, to the residence of the Bey (ruler) of Tunis. The beach must have been much wider at the time of my father’s visit, and maybe the pontoon still in place?

Residence of the Bey of Tunis taken in 1950, Carthage

In my father’s footsteps, at the Bey of Tunis’ residence

My darling making sure we can recreate my dad’s photo as best as possible

We got a taxi to take us to all those places and to visit the Roman ruins of Carthage which my father visited – thank goodness, as we would not have wanted to walk to the 5 main areas of Carthage ruins in our motorcycle gear. Hopping in and out of the taxi felt like luxury! I have to say that after Timgad, Carthage was disappointing, especially as the museum was closed until 2031 for restauration! We only found that out when I realised that the signs for the museum took us all around and past closed doors. Workers there told us when to come back! And the ruins were impossible to decifer what they were. Picky or spoilt?!

Carthage ruins and cathedral where my father attended mass

It has been a big day, emotionally and hot and we’re ready to be dropped back at our hotel. But not until after our driver has taken us somewhere for a view. No, we’re done we say. No no you must see this. We drive to this suburb where all the houses are white with deep blue shutters. Very picturesque BUT… The streets are narrow, blocked with traffic jams and all we see are parked coaches and throngs of tourists. No thank you, we are finished. No no, I’ll drop you off at the top and you can walk down, it will be easy. The taxi was not allowed to park anywhere at the top. We relented and got out. Yes, fabulous views but hundreds of tourists and stores all selling the same vivid painted earthenware. Here are some photos of Sidi Bou Said.

At least tourists don’t venture beyond the shops!

The taxi driver was great and when we gave him more than he asked for, he tried to hand the difference back.

Our entire stay in Tunisia was just 5 days. After an easy border crossing at Oum T’Boul, we first headed to a resort which I decided we deserved after all the hard riding we’d done. It was luxurious, we both had a massage and ate deliciously fresh seafood.

Just passed Oum T’Boul, welcome to Tunisia!

Dozens of stork nests along an abandoned processing plant track

Tunis quickly reminded us that the world that has been affected by tourism is not always as honest as what we experienced throughout Algeria…. We had let our guard down a couple of times. Ask for a price before hand and if need be haggle. If not, too bad and pay up even if it’s extortion.

Leaving Tunisia for Sicily by ferry was straight forward, just don’t pack your passport away as you’ll be asked for it by any official that walks past while you wait for the queue to advance. We will be updating our Visas and Border section with details of the 3 border crossings.

Retracing some of my father’s steps has been very special and worthwhile. Yes it is a pity he is no longer with us to share our experiences with him, but he knew that retracing his steps had been our plan. No regrets.

I am happy I achieved what I wanted in Algeria and Tunisia

– Anne

Jun 1 2025

Best way to ride out of Constantine

May 31 2025

Constantine, Annaba and more Algerian welcome

Constantine, often referred to as the “City of Bridges”, connecting the various hills, valleys and ravines which also means steep meandering roads, and stunning views, certainly did not disappoint!!! On so many levels.

Founded by the Phoenicians in 203BC, Constantine was the capital of the Numidian Kingdom (a Berber empire) under the name Cirta. It was totally destroyed by Maxentius in 311CE then shortly thereafter rebuilt by Roman Emperor Constantine the Great in 313 CE, who named it after himself.

After an eventful arrival (long traffic jam down the steepest slippery road where 3 official lanes become 6 with everyone jockeying to get ahead) and crazy roundabout traffic, Streak and Storm are staying stored for the next couple of days!!

Nothing round or ordered about this roundabout

First on my agenda is the Cirta Museum with more Roman treasures.

Mosaic of the eagle of Jupiter, Cirta museum

Lacrymatory in which mourners dropped their tears (3-4 centuries BC)

Faustine, 1st wife of Emporor Antoninus Pius

Anthony is running low on gluten free crackers/bread and we have used up all our tins of tuna and sardines so time to replenish. I find a supermarket that sells gluten free foods 2.5kms away from our hotel so we decide to walk there. We finally get away from the bustle of Constantine with its uneven broken pavements, into the quieter residential suburbs past some stunning old houses and STEPS of course.

Constantine Town Hall inaugurated in 1902 but built over the ruins of an Otoman mosque built destroyed by the authorities in 1855

Grand Hotel, Annaba (we stayed at the Ibis across the road)

Constantine townhall – inscribed in Arabic and Berber

…. and continued down these steps in hilly Constantine

Canstantine is afterall built on a rocky cliff face. We didn’t expect to come across a modern looking coffee shop and decide to walk in. Every single head turns to look at us as we enter. They are all women. One table left just for us. With pastries calling my name. Sadly nothing for Anthony.

Anthony is so happy for me even though there is nothing he can eat there

We get to the supermarket – closed. The small store opposite tells us it’s been closed for 3 years! Google doesn’t always have the latest information. As he tries to explain where the nearest supermarket is, a car stops, asks us if he can help and offers to take us. And there started a new friendship. We ended up spending 4 hours with Nourrédine and later his wife Nina (who was busy earlier which enabled him to drive us to the hypermarket, then the Grand Mosque). As we get literally 100m from our hotel, Nina decides we need to hop out of the car to go to a rose water fair where I try rose and orange water at every stand while Nourrédine drove around the crazy roundabout!! Our hotel is literally across the road but Nina calls him to collect us to drive us to the Ahmed Bey Palace asap as it is due to close soon. It just closed when we got there but is open tomorrow which is great news. Back in the car to take us to see the suspension bridge, then we drive around the copper artisan area, then we stop off at an amazing cake shop. We invited them to have a tea or cold drink somewhere but they instead invite is to their home, 35kms away. Realising how tired Anthony was they then offered to invite us to Friday lunch instead.

Rode this gorgeous road the day we left Constantine

Monument to children killed during World War I

With Nina near the Sidi M’Cid suspension bridge

Rose water distillation Teqtar is traditional in Constantine

Aia at Dar El Bey cake shop, Constantine

Copper Artisans off Bardo street, Constantine

Friday morning we return to the Palace for a visit.

Friday is family day. Towns and cities are dead on a Friday because everyone is home with their families. So to be invited to their home on a Friday was very special. Nourrédine came to collect us while Nina was preparing a special gluten free/dairy free meal for us. What a beautiful table and delicious meal. We were totally spoiled with fresh salads, grilled sardines and tuna, steamed veggies and amazing juice and fresh fruit. The conversation was very fluid and interesting, mostly in French with some English with their daughter-in-law who spoke perfect English.

Time flew by, we all wished we’d had more time together, so we exchanged emails and connected on social media. What a beautiful family we will want to remain in contact with.

Saturday morning we decide to leave earlyish to beat the traffic. We rode the stunning cliff cutting we had driven with Nourrédine and Nina the other day. What a view. The otherside of the suspension bridge took is down various narrow, one way streets – one wrong turn and I tell Anthony to cross the pavement to the other side. The trick is to keep moving and get out of situations.

Annaba’s hotel secure parking turns out to be on the pavement near the hotel with a security guard 24/24!! Worked fine but we did feel bad for the poor guy seeing him there at 3am still watching Streak and Storm.

3am and the guard is still there keeping Streak and Storm safe

After a great lunch, it’s time to get a bit of exercise and explore the old city. I eye a tiny coffee shop but as usual, it is full of men smoking. As we are just about to continue on our way, two men call us in, come in, sit down. As usual in Algeria, we get the best welcome and smiles. And great coffee. We continue our walk and I notice the most deliciously caramelised palmiers!!! (They’re French palm tree leaf shaped puff pastry coated with sugar – they’re delicious). Could not resist to buy one. Only one? Not two? No, only one…. 5’ later, I could not resist. Yes, one more would be great, it was too good. Anthony returns to the shop and gets me … 2 more!!!

Not sure what those sheep are in the centre of Annaba for

While in Algeria, I never hid my French origins and invariably, whenever we’ve had the opportunity to have longer conversations than niceties, the long lasting hurt from the French colonial days is always brought up. Whether it is the fact that their father or grandfather died of torture in 1954, or had their past eradicated by being given new French names or that the stunning building were occupied by the French army or colonialists. The deep feeling of hurt, grief and displacement is long lasting and still felt, especially as there was never an apology – it often reminded me of our Stolen Generation. It is heartbreaking to hear first hand of this hurt and know that so few people experience the genuine warm welcome Algerians we have received from so many in our short time in Algeria due to incorrect media bias.

Our last night in Algeria could not have been more perfect. We met Laidi and Anis, a surgeon and a pharmacist, in a smoke filled cafe showing the Paris Saint-Germain- Inter-Milan European Cup Final. We spent hours chatting and being once again spoilt by their generosity. We could not pay for a thing. What a night!

Our trip to Algeria would not have been anywhere near as enjoyable and memorable had it not been for the generous and welcoming Algerians we met. Thank you to all of you. We have left a bit of our hearts in Algeria thanks to you.

The wonderful Algerians who helped make our Algeria visit unforgettable

We leave in the morning for the Oum T’Boul border crossing into Tunisia.

Anne

May 28 2025

2slowspeeds

Loving life – Turning Dreams into Memories

Sicily; first contact

Tunisia

Best way to ride out of Constantine

Constantine, Annaba and more Algerian welcome

Touggourt to Constantine

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