Oct 4 2017

We did it!!!

Yes, we did it and it feels great!! Our 2nd round the world trip on the same motorcycles, Streak and Storm, in 6 months this time, from east to west, is now complete: 30,300kms or 19,000 miles plus 2 flights, 5 ferry rides and 2 truck rides, 22 countries visited on this trip, 11 new countries, making it 95 countries in total for us over the years. And we celebrated a couple of milestones on the road: 43 years since we met and my 60th birthday.

We did it!!!

Why did we do this trip again?! Well, it was a choice between painting the house or going on another bike trip. There was no hesitation on our part. After Anthony drew up 3 routes of varying length and duration, we both picked the same one: the longest one, another round the world. There were friends in a number of countries we made on our last round the world trip who we dearly wanted to see again. It was also the most challenging route, for the timeframe – can we go around the world during a northern hemisphere summer? and for the terrain – crossing Mongolia with its renowned stunning scenery but difficult roads. Why so fast? We didn’t want to be away another 15 months – 6 months seemed to be about right and we saw it like an endurance challenge, a marathon, or ultra-marathon if you will, one that would challenge us both physically and mentally. Well, the timeframe challenge ended up forcing two major route changes along the way. Right at the start of the trip, we had to abandon our plan to ride to Alaska due to a long late winter. We spent a couple of months basically seeking less freezing weather and heading further and further south in the US. Then we gave up the indefinite wait in Kazakhstan to hear whether Turkmenistan would grant us a transit visa which meant we could not return to Iran to visit the many friends we made last time. That was gutting. And the terrain proved to be more challenging, hence one pickup ride in Mongolia, and the timeframe too, due to visa constraints, hence the 2nd pickup ride. Yes, the ride was at times physically and mentally tough but also so much fun and so rewarding!!! Renewing friendships and making new ones a huge part of that enjoyment. So we made it around the world from east to west in 6 months as we had hoped!!! And safely!! And we feel good.

Both bikes performed fantastically well overall: Streak’s four problems got fixed in Tajikistan and is still running with a secret ‘Tajik fix’ and both Streak and Storm got a new battery in Turkey. Heidenau Scout K60 tyres were fitted in Vancouver and lasted 20,000 kms.

As for us, we have enjoyed the whole journey, loved the people we met and new friendships made, saw some fantastic places, experienced so many unforgettable moments, discovered places we’d love to return to, supported each other during the tougher parts, learned more about ourselves, and best of all, can confirm once again that based on our experience, the world over, the vast majority of people are good, kind, generous and helpful.

As we close this chapter, we know how we would like to travel next!!! While we had a fantastic trip, we were so often sorry to have to move on. Too often, we ran out of time to spend a couple of more days somewhere to catch up with friends on the road – that was disappointing. 6 months was too short really. But at least we know where we’d love to return to such as the Caucasus. And while we saw stunning scenery and many fabulous ancient sites, as always, it is the time we spent with people that stays with us. We would love to spend longer in one place, wandering the smaller lanes and smaller villages with lesser known sights, at a much slower pace and at a time of the year that isn’t either too boiling hot or freezing to camp – I may have to work on Anthony for the camping part though!! Our pace will change radically. But for now, Streeak and Storm return to their storage place in southern UK.

Feeling good – we have just completed our 2nd Round trip on motorcycles!


Thank you to our numerous Gardian Angels and to all our followers for your comments and private messages and encouragement, it always meant so much to us, our connection back to home, family and friends. It is time we did that painting at home now!

– Anne

Sep 30 2017

Nearing the end of the journey

We are back in France, well the far southern part at least, the last country on our 2nd RTW motorcycle trip. It is almost over, in less than a week we will be waiting to board a ferry to England. It all seems a little surreal, we have spent almost six months travelling generally westward seeing and experiencing so much and now we will race through the last week ignoring the signs for interesting and intriguing places. We are out of time, the temperature is dropping, leaves are gaining their autumnal tints and it’s time for us finish our journey.

We leave Dubrovnik to sunshine as usual, following the coast road (D8) to Donja Podstrana – there is a name for you but the weather forecasts see rain fronts crossing the continent over the coming week, so our aim will be to try and minimise our exposure while still keeping to our timetable.

Dalmatian Coast


Dalmatian Coast


Dalmatian Coast


Dalmatian Coast


We leave Donja Podstrana and the coast and head inland to the main motorway. The scenery changes in only few miles, is less arid and shows a gentler side to Croatia, small villages, intriguing winding roads. Yet another place to come back to and explore – the list keeps growing, we must stop looking or we will have years of traveling just in this part of the world.

Time to leave our motel at Donja Podstrana, Croatia


We cross into Slovinia, our last new country on this journey and last border crossing until the UK as we are in the Schengen area late in the afternoon and spend a night in a small hotel/guest house.

The next morning sees a magical mist covered landscape heading north, yes added that to the list as well.

Ilirska Bistrica, Slovenia


Ilirska Bistrica, Slovenia


Prestranek, Slovenia


Vipava, Slovenia


Vipava, Slovenia


Morning light in Borgo Ticino, NW of Milan, Italy


Italy was crossed with our destination, Montauroux, a small hilltop village west of Grasse, where we were based from January to May 2014 and did a significant amount of planning for RTW version 1.

Riding up to Montauroux, Provence


Heading into Montauroux


As we ride up the hill towards Montauroux, we recognise all the old sights, winding our way into the square, we are relieved, nothing seems to have changed. We park outside the ‘Brasserie du Clos’ where we would walk to each morning for coffee to watch the world go by, and more often than not in the evening for Pizza and a surprisingly good rosé wine on tap. We had got to know the proprietor Albert quite well. Over three years later, would he still be there or have sold and moved on? He is there and remembers us, he still has a post card we sent from Uzbekistan in 2014. Another great reconnection on this trip.

Back in Montauroux for coffee


We wander the town, reminding ourselves of those little things that fade from the memory,

View of Montauroux seen by us every day when we lived here


Cat flap in Montauroux


Lunch at the ‘Brasserie du Clos’ talking with Albert, it was great to see him again. We will keep in touch in future. Merci Albert pour le déjeuner, à la prochaine!

Anne and Albert in Montauroux


Our next stop is in Aix, chosen from a number of similar interesting places around the same distance from Montauroux, we know that Anne has an Aunt in the region, but where? Aix of course! We spend a couple of hours catching up with someone Anne had not seen in over 25 years.

Lodève, France


Heading down towards Lunas, France


Onwards to Lunas in the Occitanie region, created in 2016, where we catch up with the last friends before finishing this trip. Phillip and Judith we met in 2009 in India where we were all part of an organised group riding through Darjeeling and Bhutan on Royal Enfield motorcycles, our first overseas motorcycle adventure and look where that led us!!

Knights Templar village of La Couvertoirade


Knights Templar village of La Couvertoirade


Rooftops in Knights Templar village of La Couvertoirade


We spend a couple of days enjoying their company and hospitality and the last of the warm sunshine before heading off into the rain and back to UK, the trip almost over…

Anne, Phillip and Judith in the sunshine, Lunas

– Anthony

Sep 21 2017

Breakfast in Albania, Lunch in Montenegro and Dinner in Croatia

Yes it’s true, the marvels of small countries, having spent 10 days just crossing four of Russia’s 12 time zones in June, to visit three countries in a day. It was a slow and leisurely journey dictated by the winding roads. Rain gone, we navigate out of Tirana with a sigh of relief as we were completely unable to determine who had priority at roundabouts. It seemed to change at each one, we found the best solution was to use a larger vehicle as a shield and when they went we went. Well it worked for us.

Bike wash coming, en-route to the Albanian border


Our first heavy rain cleaned Streak and Storm and only lasted a few minutes, a taste of what’s to come. We are already pining for warm weather – we are so fickle.

Rozafa castle, Shkoder, Albania


The green and the grey, just missed this one


At the Albanian / Montenegro border, we will need insurance: Montenegro is not part of the Green Card system we have for motorcycle insurance, although I am sure this will change when Albania and Montenegro join he EU. Currently Albania has ‘Candidate’ status and Montenegro is in negotiation, a stage prior to Candidacy. Both have adopted vehicle number plates that mimic the EU ones. As we leave the Albanian Customs and Immigration, we find no Montenegrin counterpart, ah that was the meaning of the ‘Joint Facility’ sign, so no insurance = drive carefully in Montenegro!

Montenegrin short cut


Angled and Parallel Parking combined


Lunch is taken at a small restaurant where no one speaks English. The owner asks all the customers, ‘who speaks English?’ and a young guy comes forward. We ask if they have chicken, yes so chicken kebabs it is. Only as we wait and see a staff member return from the supermarket do we realise, they don’t do chicken, but got it to accommodate us. Very nice.

What a fabulous coastine, Montenegro


Anne crossing between Lepetane and Kamenari, Montenegro


Streak crossing between Lepetane and Kamenari, Montenegro


Crossing between Lepetane and Kamenari, Montenegro


Looking North while crossing between Lepetane and Kamenari, Montenegro


We continue on and navigate successfully to Croatia where our Green Card Insurance kicks in.

Wonderful treescapes, heading in Croatia


We start to see more and more tourist motorcycles and by the end of the day I think we have seen more travellers on touring motorcycles as opposed to adventure motorcycles, than the combined travellers over the previous few months. We are returning to civilisation. We are now riding the famed Dalmatian Coast: the road twists and turns, climbs and falls with the varied blues of the Adriatic sea on the left contrasting with greys, browns and greens of the rugged mountain landscape on the right.

Traffic on the D8 south of Dubrovnik


Much as I enjoy this scenery, the volume of traffic and seemingly continuous habitation do detract in my mind to the glimpses of beauty laid out on both sides of the road. I wish we had more time to dive down a little lane to the beach below or ride the track up the mountain for a better view, but alas not this time. We both feel that perhaps the best way to see the region given the geography would be by boat, sailing along the coast, visiting islands and coves at will.

With only one road, long convoys form, with few overtaking places, it can be quite frustrating. We are lucky however on a couple of occasions to reach the front, pull away and have a quite few minutes of traffic free riding, a great experience and worth the effort to lead, not just follow.

Coming from the South, Dubrovnik is laid out below us on the other side of the road. Anne risked life and limb to take this photo, so savour it.

Dubrovnik from the D8 road


Like so many wonderful tourist spots today, we are smothering them by sheer numbers of visitors, we thought that this late in September would be quieter, but with over 91% of hotel rooms booked out, we were wrong. We joined the throng heading for the old walled city, with an equally large number of people leaving. While the buildings on the main streets within the walls are visitor focused, glimpses up the narrow passageways shows domestic washing hanging from the windows. All is not lost to the tourist trade. Still, we really enjoyed our short visit and had both dinner, down a little side alley and breakfast over looking the ocean. Could not have been better.

Looking east up the Stratum in Dubrovnik


Minčeta tower and western old city walls, Dubrovnik


Main square in Dubrovnik looking North.

Local lanes in Dubrovnik


Pile gate, Dubrovnik city wall


We came across the art gallery of Ivo Grbić, which was burnt down with the loss of all his work during the conflict between Croatia and Serbia-Montenegro in December 1991. It must be hard for an artist to loose so much of his work forever, but the building is restored and his work continues. A reminder of what was so recent and in Europe, not some far flung part of the world we had barely heard of. One can hope that the process of becoming part of the European Union will enhance the healing as a new generation grows up, hopefully without the baggage of the past.

Our breakfast view, Dubrovnik


Breakfast with Anne in Dubrovnik, could not be happier


From Dubrovnik we will head inland, the coast road is too slow for us as we now have about 10 days to complete this journey and 2000 km. / 1200 ml. to cover. We will fly past so many wonderful and interesting places that I do not want to look at any travel guides to see what I am missing, but this was a Northern Hemisphere Summer RTW trip so we are still following our primary goal, tempting as it is at times to just stay, wander off track, we would probably still be in North America! Not this time. Next we head for Bosnia-Herzegovina which has a small sliver of coastline which breaks Dubrovnik from the rest of Croatia.

– Anthony

Sep 19 2017

Returning to Europe

We leave the Gallipoli Peninsula and Turkey with fond memories: we have covered the country from from one side to the other, seen amazing sites, met wonderful people, ridden great roads and complained about the heat from time to time, something we will miss looking at the weather forecasts for Europe, some 10 to 15 degrees celsius cooler. We have a couple more days of greater than 30 degree celsius weather then out come our winter woollies. You have to remember that we have basically avoided the colder weather since we set off on our first RTW trip in June 2014. We have become used to warmth.

Turkish Immigration is straightforward, Customs however want to X-Ray Anne’s bike, not mine I hasten to add, with the machine they use to X-Ray trucks – that will be a new experience. We weave through the parked trucks to the X-Ray office, closed, walk back to Customs. Here I am told that it will open in five minutes, then a van arrives with the official, probably late for work. I am motionned to follow the van, on foot no thanks, I hop in next to the driver. Probably not making him happy. We get Streak up on the ramp, X-Ray on, we wait, he wants to try another X-Ray machine. I tell Anne to wait while I take Streak back past Customs and Immigration to the X-Ray machine on the Inbound side of the facility near the exit back into Turkey and as he has Streak’s motorcycle passport you follow. You do start to wonder if they have seen something, has someone put an illegal item in the bike while it was parked overnight?

X-ray time for a tiny ‘truck’


Into the X-Ray machine for Streak, and wait for me. Then the X-Ray officer I have been dealing with leaves with his colleagues. More waiting, then a new X-Ray officer comes out gives me the Motorcycle Passport, “tell Customs Ok” that’s it. I get to ride back using the open gate to avoid Immigration and Customs, come in from the other side and tell the Customs officer its all Ok and we are done. Strange process, at least we will be able to find Streak in the dark from now on, hopefully we will not set off any radiation detectors that may exist in ports going forward.

Back in the EU, a simple check of our EU passports and we enter Greece, what will the process be like for UK Citizens post Brexit, more complicated I suspect, but that is for the future. We also have a single currency, the Euro, no more converting one dada to another and finding various notes and coins in pockets after we have crossed the border. Open highway, good road, four lane highway, but where are the petrol/gasoline stations and restaurants? There are none on the A2 highway between the Turkish border and Thessaloniki. In Turkey both facilities dot the highways, we see signs at exit points and eventually hunger for food and fuel have us off the highway to a delightful local garage. In Greece it seems they have kept the facilities in the towns and villages, not shut them down and moved them onto the highways as other countries have done.

For lunch we find a small village with a great seafood restaurant, we are enjoying the wide range of Greek food on offer. We have a long day but reach the town of Kozani, west of Thessaloniki having covered over 550 km. / 340 ml. A strange oneway system gets us to our hotel, which I thought was on a continuation of a one way street, lucky Anne is around to save me from denting the bonnets of passing cars!

Bear and cub crossing sign in Greece

Clever representation of fog for cars, Greece


The road to the Albanian border is brand new, not even on the maps, which causes some confusion for the GPS as we appear to head into the middle of nowhere. The Customs and Immigration between Greece and Albania are a breeze compared with the seemingly mindless paperwork we have encountered previously. I have given up documenting borders, all too easy here. All we need is insurance and it always seems the next window sells insurance we are told until finally ‘Yes we sell insurance’, should have guessed by the words ‘Best Albanian Insurance’ above the window. We are all set.

Albania has a nice feel, and maybe not as arid as the Greek side. We leisurely wind our way towards the capital, stopping for coffee at a small roadside cafe. Here we meet Johnny, a local who speaks excellent English, plus Albanian and Greek. He is studying Journalism and has a great desire to learn and travel. As we travel more and more young people have been exposed to so much of the world via the internet and want to get out there and explore and learn and experience the same sort of opportunities that we take for granted.

SH101 north of Koeçe, Albania

Drying corn husks in Albania

Drying corn husks in Albania

Strolling throuh Pogradec, Albania

Proud owner who painted his home, Pogradec

Home in narrow lane in Pogradec, Albania

Lasgush Poradeci, poet born in Pogradec, Albania

Librazhd, Albania

Wonderful Johnny Goussa, Librazhd, Albania

Large cities have less and less attraction for us, especially riding Streak and Storm. Tirana, sadly, does not disappoint: masses of traffic, impatient drivers and pedestrians interweaved with them. Anne always takes into account when booking a hotel the ease of riding into and out of town. This makes it a little easier for me navigating on the GPS. We arrive successfully, but plan to leave early to avoid some of the more interesting driving behaviours of the locals.

Getting to our hotel in Tirana, Albania


Checking the forecast weather for tomorrow, rain rain rain, we decide to spend two nights in Tirana instead of moving on. The day is punctuated by frequent showers but we use the intervening time to explore the fish market, main square and the old underground bunkers used by the leadership in the Communist era.

The storm is coming, Tirana, Albania

Street sculpture, Tirana, Albania

Street sculpture, Tirana, Albania

Playing dominoes, town square, Tirana

Not a throw-away society, rewiring electrical motors husband and wife business, Tirana, Albania

Not a throw-away society, rewiring electrical motors husband and wife business, Tirana, Albania

The bunkers have been turned into a museum charting the history and activities of the police and security forces since the start of the 20th century, with emphasis on how they watched monitored and enforced the Communist Governments desire to control the population and weed out and brutally punish any supposed or falsely accused dissidents, saboteurs and traitors. So sad to see pictures of those individuals who suffered at the hands of the police.

Bunk’Art2 Museum, Tirana, Albania

Bunk’Art2 Museum, Tirana, Albania

List of people killed, Bunk’Art2 Museum, Tirana, Albania

Photos of some of the people killed, entrance of the Bunk’Art2 Museum, Tirana, Albania

A sobering reminder of what lengths authoritarian regimes will go to maintain power.

– Anthony

Sep 17 2017

Gallipoli, two people’s views

Gallipoli and Australia and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) are words etched in the Australian psyche for over 100 years since those fateful events in faraway Turkey between 25 April 1915 and 16 January 1916. Each year on the 25th of April (ANZAC Day) Australians and New Zealanders gather before dawn at the time of the first landings for a ‘Dawn Service’ to remember the sacrifices made on our behalf by the ANZACS and those who have served since. While I have attended the Dawn Service over the years, as have growing numbers of Australians, I have never been to the actual battlefields in Turkey. I have a personal connection as my maternal Grandfather was with the British forces and was wounded here.

Anne has been to Gallipoli previously in 2005 on ANZAC Day as a member of the Australian Prime Minister’s party, but that is her story and I will let her tell it. She has wanted me to experience the place and will act as my guide.

We are staying about 10km / 6 miles South of ANZAC Cove where the landings took place and the main Australian and New Zealand remembrance service is held on 25 April each year. We get up at the crack of dawn as Anne wants me to see the location in the early morning light. We ride in the cool morning air with the scent of the pine trees in the air following the coast road with no other traffic in sight until Anne says ‘here it is’.

Arriving at Anzac Cove, Turkey


A low wall and a grassy area distinguish ANZAC Cove from the surrounding area which is thick with trees and shrubs. I am drawn to the imposing hill called “The Sphinx” which dominates the landscape and must have seemed almost impossible to climb to those first soldiers ashore. I am struck by the simplicity of the the location, just a couple of low walls and some plaques describing the events. I have only ever seen it on television filled with people for the dawn service. We are lucky to have the location to ourselves, not a person in sight.

ANZAC Cove, Turkey


At ANZAC Cove, Turkey


We rode on up the hills, climbing and climbing till we arrived at the Lone Pine Memorial and cemetery. We ride down a gravel track with views overlooking the landing beaches and the Thracian sea. Again we are alone as we walk along the rows of headstones, so many and so young, messages from anguished loved ones carved on the headstones. Many say that they think the person is buried here and the dates of death have a range, they were not sure when they died. I think that all political leaders should spend time visiting such places to understand the consequences of committing troops to war. At certain times war may be inevitable, but our leaders should explore other options fully.

Soldier buried at Lone Pine, Turkey

Soldier buried at Lone Pine, Turkey

We also visit the memorial to the Turkish 57th Infantry regiment which suffered over 1,800 causalities during the campaign. A statue of one of the last survivors and his granddaughter looks over the plaques recalling the names of the Turkish soldiers who lost their lives.

The last Turkish survivor and his grand-daughter, 57th Infantry Regiment memorial, Turkey


Turkish soldier killed at Gallipoli, Turkey


We are lucky today that there is a strong bond between Australians and Turks over this 100 year old event, that helped define both nations by the actions of those who fought and gave their lives here. I was privileged to have been able to visit Gallipoli.

– Anthony

Having attended an ANZAC (Australia New Zealand Army Corps) commemoration at Anzac Cove in 2005 without Anthony, I was keen to return with him for two reasons. I wanted Anthony to feel the impact of seeing the cliffs that the poor soldiers faced as they attempted an assault on Turkey on 25 April 1915, mistakingly landing in the wrong place, with terrible consequences, total carnage! The service had started in the darkness of the night then just before dawn, the cliffs behind us were suddenly lit up showing the impossible cliffs facing the soldiers – they had no chance. It was so shocking, moving, overwhelming …

The other reason was that I felt I had been unable to ‘properly’ reflect and pay my respects. I had organised an Aboriginal art exhibition in Istanbul to coiincide with the ANZAC 90th anniversary and was invited to join John Howard’s party to the commemorations, together with his entourage, the Australian press contingent and many world leaders. I attended every ceremony that day on the Peninsular, for the Australians, British, French and Turks of course too. Yet, because of the dignitaries, press, and especially the service men and women, I was more concerned about being in the wrong place and not intruding.

Lone Pine, Turkey


Lone Pine, Turkey


Being there, at ANZAC Cove, Lone Pine and Ataturk’s memorial, just the two of us, Anthony and I, at dawn, I was able to truly pay my respects, give my gratitude for the sacrifice of those who fought for our freedom. Then I was suddenly overwhelmed with great sadness, thinking of what these men went through, so many very young ones, what their families went through too and wondering what we had learned. How many have ended up dying or being scared for life because of the egos and intolerance of a few in various recent wars?…

Over the past few months, travelling as we have, our planet has seemed so small and us, as human beings, so insignificant in our vast universe and at the same time, we as people are so similar across the world despite our borders. We all basically strive for the same things, food, shelter, family, health and happiness. And there is an inate desire within us as human beings to connect with and help others. We have seen this throughout every country we have travelled through. It has been great to experience the spirit of forgiveness and friendship here in Turkey, often being invited for a cup of tea and a being told we are welcome in their country. It is heartwarming.

An unofficial truce occurred when a Turk returned a wounded British soldier to his side of the battlefield, Gallipoli, Turkey

Revisiting ANZAC Cove and the many memorials, I was able to give thanks and remember those who fought for us all.

– Anne