A week in the Faroes
I yearned for a return to nature and solitude. Even though we set off from the capital Torshavn in the rain on our first day exploring the Faroes in its typical foggy and drizzly best, it wasn’t long before I felt I was exactly where I needed to be. The past 9 months’ stress fizzled away into the mist, lifting my spirit, even made me feel like I could start it all over again – but not just yet!!
Can you tell Anne is loving riding in the Faroes?
Although we are fair weather people, there is something about misty weather that somehow connects you more to nature. Even though the lighting is mostly grey, the greens look as if you are seeing them through polarising glasses. Yellow, pink, white, orange and purple wildflowers line the roads, walking paths and cover most pastures. It is not only the greens that are mindblowingly bright, every colour is sharp – the air must be so pure here. The beauty of riding bikes as opposed to driving is that you can smell nature, there are so many flowers, you can smell them as you ride. Maybe not so good for those with pollen allergy. You can also smell the fish as you ride through villages.
Foggy morning in the Faroes
Wildflowers everywhere in the Faroes
Wildflower in Tjornuvik, Streymoy
In Sandavágur, Vagar
Gásadalur, Vagar
View from Vagar
Up to Saksun, Streymoy
Typical church in the Faroes
“Thanks for Everything” is commonly written on gravestones in the Faroes
Saksun, Streymoy
Saksun, Streymoy
Saksun, Streymoy
On the way to Tjornuvik, Streymoy
Tjornuvik, Streymoy
Tjornuvik, Streymoy
Planting potatoes in Tjornuvik, Streymoy
Waterfalls everywhere in the Faroes, Streymoy
The scenery is breathtaking! At times, it reminds us of either New Zealand, the Drakensberg in South Africa, Ireland or even Iceland. But the Faroes have a feel of their own. You feel the Faroese culture at every bend as the countryside is dotted with tiny hamlets, each costal one with its own little harbour. The air is clear like I have never experienced – even my own photos nearly look fake or like miniature villages.
On our way to Gjogv Eysturoy
Funningur, Eysturoy
Bumping into Nimbus Danes we met on the ferry over in Funningur, Eysturoy
Some of the Nimbus bikes in Funningur, Eysturoy
Anne is happy in Funningur, Eysturoy
View from above Funningur, Eysturoy
We have visited a handful of the 18 islands which form the Faroes, enjoyed a number of small walks – it is hard to go for long hikes in motorcycle riding boots – and enjoyed just being, taking in the breathtaking raw beauty of this land. We were too late in organising ourselves for this trip to get to Mykines, one of the islands I really wanted to visit but had also been warned that trips there could be cancelled because of the weather – in our case, we could get there but not get back as every ferry and helicopter flight was fully booked. We didn’t want to take the risk of getting there and being stuck there for days. The attraction there was puffins and more inevitable breathtaking views. But we saw puffins elsewhere, in Gjogv (pronounced “jegv”) so all’s good.
Old port in Gjogv, Eysteroy
Gjogv, Eysturoy
Puffin spotting in Gjogv Eysturoy
And maybe there was another reason we had to go to Gjogv: as we were leaving the village, we bumped into a Dutch motorcyclist who was in Mongolia at the same time as us in 2017 and had been trying for the past 2 years to trace an Italian who he had heard had broken his ankle and had to leave his motorcycle behind to be shipped back. Feeling sorry for him, the Dutchman fixed the Italian’s broken windscreen for him and left a note wishing him well. He is Lino, the Italian we had come across in Khovd and for whom I had organised a local driver to take him to hospital. That evening, after returning to the campsite from Gjogv, I was able to email the Dutchman the Italian’s contact details. What are the odds, once again?!?! This really is such a small world…
The weather hasn’t been too bad. Apart from the first days when the rain was pretty heavy, we have just had a spattering of rain, and fog. No wind and not that cold. Making camping pretty enjoyable, even for Anthony! Sadly, the Faroes no longer allow wild camping because of too many inconsiderate tourists in the past so we have had to stay in official camping areas – nearly unheard of with the Speeds!! But we did find Aduvik, on Esturoy, which we ended up staying 4 nights because we loved the spot so much – can you tell?! Just a pity some people can be so noisy especially when in such a wonderfully quiet and wild area.
Camping at Aeduvik, Eysturoy
Relaxing at our camp at Aeduvik, Eysturoy
Watch where you’re walking when so close to the water – I tripped up taking photos of the algae!
Exploring the rocks at Aeduvik, Eysturoy
Our campsite at Aeduvik
Travelling isn’t just about enjoying new scenery or riding fabulous roads, but all about the people and learning about new cultures. Talking to locals always brings an added level of appreciation of the places we are passing through. And what an unexpected and amazing evening last night!
As I stood looking out over the rocks, out to sea, I struck up a conversation with this guy who seemed to enjoy the area as much as I did. It turns out Jørgin is a local, and he and his wife and family are over to prepare the hay for his 88 year old father-in-law’s beloved 8 sheep, which Jacob keeps as a hobby but the whole family gets involved in looking after. Jørgin‘s wife Unn came over and we chatted for a while, until it was time for Jørgin and Unn to return to the field and get back to work. Jokingly, Unn suggested we go over and help to which Anthony suggested they could actually charge tourists to help them.
Well, I decided to go over and see what the process entailed and offered to help. They still follow the traditional Faroese process: after the grass is cut, it is first raked into little piles. Then you go back to each pile, turn the pile over, moving it away from it’s spot to allow the ground to dry, then spreading the pile flat again to allow it to dry. Because the weather was too damp, it was eventually decided to stop the spreading step and go to the next step of moving each pile into a single line down the hill. The next step involves pushing the central pile with the rake upside down, and pushing the grass into one massive pile which is then lifted into a large bale bag in a couple of easy swinging movements – that is best done by 2 people, each holding one bale bag handle, one foot standing on the edge of the bag and then scoop-rolling the hay into the bag. An hour and a half flew by. Because the hay and weather were too damp, the hay was then transferred to a drying ‘shed’ beside the campground. An old 1960’s car engine is used to heat the hay for 24 hours.
Preparing hay in the Faroes
Unn teaching me
Turning over and spreading the small piles to dry them out
My line ready to be pushed down the hill
I hadn’t planned on spending an hour and a half raking grass and gathering it into bales. It felt great and I loved how it was a whole family affair, with 3 generations involved. Earlier, while we were raking, Unn asked me what we had planned for dinner: ham and crackers. Why don’t you come over to my parents for dinner and experience a Faroese home and dinner? What a fabulous offer? I accepted without asking Anthony as I knew he’d love the opportunity too.
Jørgin and Unn on the far left
Not only did we have a sumptuous dinner of home made leek soup with meat balls, carrots and potato dumplings, home dried sheep, cod which Jacob caught earlier today (at 88, he still goes out fishing on his own every day), various cooked meats, cabbage salad followed by all sorts of chocolates and cake. We learned so much about life in the Faroes, including social security, employment insurance, retirement, higher education.
After dinner, Jørgin drove us to the largest fish farming company in the Faroes. They work 2 shifts a day so at 10:30 at night, we were able to see the whole process by driving past the large windows – workers happily waving at us as we stopped! Pitty we didn’t know when we arrived that the company organises tours every Saturday. Next stop, the little harbour which is preparing for a fish festival this Saturday.
Suddenly it 11:15pm and it is just barely dusk. What a fabulous experience. And our favourite camping spot at Aduvik happens to be Unn and Jørgin’s favourite place too.
Our last day is spent wondering the streets of Torshavn.Learning about printmaking at Studio Bloch, Torshavn
Ingenious rowing boats with provision for small engines in Torshavn
Torshavn port
Thanks for everything Faroes.
– Anne
Ferry to the Faroes
Everyone seems to arrive very early for the ferry and it feels like a well oiled mechanism – we’re give a yellow sticker with lane 18 marked. Yellow stickers are for Faroe passengers, and these get onto the ferry after the Iceland bound vehicles.
The next day, we arrive at Torshavn, the capital of the Faroe Islands. This is the weather we are expecting for the next week.
One of the first off the ferry, we head straight to our hotel – thought a night in a hotel would be good after the overnight ferry. We get a very odd greeting, with the owner/manager telling us he has booked us into another hotel – no explanation, no apology, just “this is a very nice hotel”.
Back into town we go, and this new hotel definitely has a fabulous location!
We could just fall into bed and sleep but we have a shower and decide to explore the capital before treating ourselves to a rather delicious dinner at Aarstova restaurant.
Despite the dreary weather, we are both looking forward to the coming week on the Faroes although Anne is more excited than Anthony at the idea of camping in those conditions.
Anne & Anthony
Exciting to see the Faroes sign
Our ferry to the Faroes
I can see the attraction that our loyal followers have for the couch. I have spent most of the afternoon ensconced in one in the Naust café & lounge on the M/F Norrona as we head to the Faroes. I have eaten, slept and spent time starting the redrafting the three pages on motorcycle equipment camping equipment etc to better reflect the passage of time since they were first written back in 2014. It is a lot more comfortable than being in the saddle all day. Any one want to swap?
Danish Danish
We sailed out of Hirtshals on a bright sunny day onto a calm sea with Streak and Storm lashed to the deck down below after a little struggle with the securing ropes. It took me a while to realise that the locking mechanisms did not work for many of the straps and old fashioned knots were the go. We have 36 hours before we reach the Faroe Islands so time to relax and enjoy the many restaurants and bars. Our travelling companions include a fleet of RV’s from Italy, about 40 motorcycles including a couple of Nimbus motorcycles, a 1936 and 1955, and I thought that a Nimbus was a magic flying broom used in Quiditch games from a Harry Potter movie.
A Nimbus. Famous Danish motorcycle. You guess the type.
All aboard.
They have got themselves a good spot on the ferry
Looking at my phone, which was using global roaming via the extra AU$5 per day Vodaphone package I see I am still connected to the phone and 3G out to sea. Maritime Roaming? Eeek! I switch off the Global Roaming and phone to flight mode. I see a message from Vodaphone advising me that I will be charged AU$5 per minute for calls, AU0.75 for text and AU$5 per 1MB for data. It was just a seamless transition, lucky I am not a heavy mobile app user. A trap for the unwary, such as me.
Due to our late booking we were only able to secure a “couchette” for the first leg of this journey. Anne’s view of the couchette experience: Our 6 birth ‘cabin’ is on deck 2, burried in the bowels of the ship, below both car decks that is 2 levels below the cars. If that wasn‘t bad enough, the saloon type swing doors from the couchette room open inwards, that means that in an emergency, you would have to remember to pull into the room rather than push out. Being claustrophic, that is a double whammy that I don’t know I’ll be able to cope with. I tried sleeping on the top deck, but being the kids’ area, and with mostly citizens of a culture where kids rule, kids can play all night and make as much noise as they want even after midnight (while their parents sleep peacefully in their own room), so in the end, I relented and joined Anthony in our illustrious couchette room. It wasn’t all bad, because we had the whole room to ourselves. And I did sleep.
Our couchette doors
Apart from the couchette room doors opening inwardly, we are very impressed with the ferry. It has several comfortable seating areas, 2 eating areas, one ‘cheap’ cafetatia type and one with more luxury dining. We even had live ‘pub music’ in the bar last night. Breakfast in the Diner/cafetaria was ‘free’ for couchette passengers and quite adequate. Different brochures on the Faroes and Iceland kept being resupplied. There is an information desk where you can buy various tours, if they not already fully booked 😦 as I found out yesterday. Oh well… there might still be a cancellation for us to get to Mykines.
If you have forgotten anything, fret not, the duty free shop has it all, from butterfly/packable ladies shoes, to the all important motorcycle stickers, wollen and hiking clothing, underwear, jewellery, wool and knitting needles, architecture Lego, electronic spares, alcohol and chocolates.
Someone likes Toblerone
On the way back, we’ll try and remember to take our swimmers out so that we can enjoy the scenery from the top deck, from the comfort and warmth of the hot spas!
We spend the first day at sea skirting the Norwegian coast with the possibility of a glimpse of the Orkneys promised at five am tomorrow. I think I will give that a miss and just buy the postcard. The sea is so calm barely a white cap in sight all day. We are so lucky as neither of us are great seafarers and we have avoided shipborne travel wherever possible. I am surprised to see water running down the windows on the opposite side of the ship given the calm seas, no big waves but regular window washing to keep the view clear for all us passengers. Great Service.
Beautiful sunset just before midnight
The weather as we approach the Faroes
Torshavn cathedral and harbour from our hotel window
Torshavn harbour
Torshavn harbour
Tinganes houses, Torshavn
Tinganes houses, Torshavn
Aarstova restaurant, Torshavn
To the top of Denmark in three days
Phew, that was some week! Filled with highs and lows and not at all what we were expecting or had planned on. As I sit writing this in our motel in Hirtshals in Denmark, so much seems to have happened in such a short space of time, probably best to start where I left off in the last blog.
With the bikes packed, spares acquired en route to Rochester, we are all set, well at least we think we are. I have to check and recheck just to ensure I have packed everything while Anne waits patiently for me to be “really sure” I have everything. We spend the last evening having dinner with our niece Camilla followed by an early start.
Given we have to cover 1,400 km / 875 miles in three days making as much distance in the early days is important. We have chosen the Eurotunnel as it is quicker than the ferry and the same transport we used back in June 2013 to set off on our first RTW adventure. On a bright not too chilly, for us, day, we quickly ride onto the M20 to be greeted by the overhead message board stating “M20 closed between J9 & J11”. (J=Junctions) Great, a detour at the start. However another roadside sign states that this is between the hours of midnight and six am. Seems like the overhead signs came with an early version of Twitter with less than 140 characters.
We roll into the Eurotunnel terminal ahead of schedule and are offered an earlier train at no extra cost. We meet our fellow motorcycle travellers, all heading to compass points between south east and south. None seem keen to head in our direction and all are travelling much lighter than we are even though we have left the kitchen sink behind.
When we boarded the train six years ago, the carriages and ridge space seemed so narrow, now it is a breeze, our skills must have improved somewhat. The 35 minute crossing is taken up chatting to other riders about destinations and adventures. Out into the French sunlight, and I am taken how high the fences are around the Eurotunnel terminal – I wonder what the current refugee situation refugee is, as once it disappears from the everyday news, it tends to fade from the consciousness, well mine anyway.
Entering Belgium by lunchtime makes it three countries today, will we make four or even five, probably not the latter. As we are travelling on a Saturday the heavy vehicle traffic is lighter and makes the journey more enjoyable. We head towards Antwerp which we recall from the first trip was hard going with long slow traffic tailbacks that really worked the clutch hand. Today it is a breeze.
We are making good progress through Holland with Utrecht as our final destination today when Anne says “Watch for the woman waving madly in the motorhome” As the motorhome pulls along side, I see an animated face at the window, kidnapped? deranged driver? These thoughts pass through my mind, but I recognise that face and it is confirmed as the vehicle passes and I swear that under the cover on the back is a tatty old couch. Warning lights come on and we pull over behind them. The driver gets out and my suspicions are confirmed. Phillip and Judith, our friends and loyal blog followers who we first met in India back in 2009 as we took an organised motorcycle trip through India and Bhutan. What are the odds of meeting like that?
No they were not coming to see what had happened to the latest blog entry or follow us to Iceland, but were heading for a concert in Amsterdam, well that was their story. They were running late so 60 seconds at the side of the road and we went our separate ways. Life and coincidences. What an amazing world we live in. Anne remarks that her brother, who left this earth 20 years ago today, would have enjoyed this synchronicity of meeting in the middle of nowhere – or maybe it was his doing?…
After a well deserved rest outside Utrecht, Sunday will be our longest day with some 600 kilometres. Streak and Storm are performing well and the new tyres have encountered their first rainstorm and passed with flying colours. German drivers are faster and I find that my limit is 75 mph or 120 kph which means keeping an eye out for the cars that come up so quickly if you are not paying attention. I do admire those “Iron Butt” riders that have our three day mileage, 1000 miles, in 24 hours as an entry level event no less! Not for us, we really are the 2 slow speeds.
As we approach the Danish border we see a roadblock and what look like military personnel, vehicles are being stopped and checked even though Denmark is part of the Schengen Area. Not sure of this is just a temporary measure or something more permanent. We find that the drivers in Denmark seem more courteous than some of their counterparts as they will slow in the fast line to allow both of us to overtake slow moving vehicles. We enjoy the green rolling countryside which is dotted with wind turbines making use of the buffeting we are getting as we ride. Hirtshals comes into view, we have arrived for the ferry tomorrow which a week ago seemed a forlorn hope. Dinner overlooking the harbour, time to write this blog and then we are off.
– Anthony
Normal Service has been Resumed.
After the frenetic activity of the last couple of days, Thursday morning sees me basking in the sunlight waiting for Barry, a BMW specialist who has offered to come and look at Storm and take Storm back to his workshop if he thinks it can be fixed in a day. He was winding down ahead of a planned holiday, but has stepped in to help us.
I have been reading the Haynes manual on the cooling system and have at least understood the different functions of the temperature sensor and the thermostat. Still does not help me make a diagnosis.
Barry quickly sets to work, he feels there is an airlock in the system and manages to coax air out of the system with the application of more anti freeze and some pipe squeezing. The radiator is now warm all over and the temperature warning lights remain silent. I take Storm on a longer ride through the New Forest and all seems well. A big thank you to Barry for taking the time to help us out. We are back to packing for the rest of the afternoon and will be ready to depart on Friday.
Thanks for all the out of the box suggestions and the generous offer from Anne’s mother of her car as a replacement. Luckily they were not needed, including my plan to weld a shopping trolley, a sidecar substitute, to Streak.
A leisurely drive, by car, brings us to Beaulieu, an area we used to hike and camp in, some 40 years ago. We relax over dinner at a local pub with everything back on track and our departure only one day behind the original schedule. We will start out tomorrow, Friday, with a visit to the BMW dealership at Alton to pick up a replacement ABS sensor.
So those of you who were dragging their tatty old armchairs back to the shed, to the relief of their partners, bring them back, settle down with your favourite beverage and snack and prepare for another 2slowspeeds saga.
– Anthony
2slowspeeds 