Nov 9 2016

Down the Sani Pass

It is an early start for us today as we are headed to the Sani Pass which closes at 4pm at the latest (weather permitting). After a stunning day at Kiera lodge for Anthony’s birthday, we wake up to black skies and heavy rain so we are glad we are up and away early. Let’s hope they don’t close the pass because of the weather. We leave Gérard behind to snooze a little longer in the hope the skies will clear for him. This is our final goodbye, until we meet up again one day somewhere.

We cross into Lesotho in no time, the border procedure being simplified from their documented 4 step process to a quick single window visit, a stamp in the passport and a friendly goodbye. We decide to cross Lesotho in a day because of my altitude sickness problem – no time to linger and sightsee this time (lucky we visited Lesotho back in 1983). Anthony does all the driving while I concentrate on keeping my head and ears clear. The road is good and takes us through some stunning scenery and a number of extremely steep hills – 1:6!! Then suddenly we get to a long section of road built by the Chinese. We come across road construction equipment just left beside the road. We don’t know the details of the commercial agreements between the Chinese and the various African countries, but it seems such a shame and a waste that all the road constructions in Africa are performed by temporarily imported Chinese labour, not local. There could have been skills transfer in addition to simply a new road. The road is beautifully built, with wide breakdown/walking/standing/selling hard shoulder and deep storm water/sitting/walking channels. Like so often, roads are used like wide pavements with no concept of or consideration for passing vehicles… Terrifying at times…

Road traffic in Lesotho

Cold and wet in Lesotho today

Up through a number of passes, Mahlasela Pass at 3222 meters, Tlaeng Pass at 3225 metres, past Afriski, southern Africa’s highest ski resort, and we get to the Lesotho border and top of the Sani pass. This road is well known amongst hikers, motorcyclists and 4 wheel drivers as an interesting challenge, aka one of the most dangerous or insane roads! First a stop in the highest pub in Africa at 2874m to have a look at the road and valley below. This is where we saw a tv with the announcement Trump had won the US election.

After the horrendous news of Trump, it is heartwarming to see this sign at the Lesotho border:

Lesotho border sign

The Sani Pass road is a gravel road that starts right on the South Africa side of the border and goes from 2876 metres to 1544 metres in just over 9 kms. It requires a 4×4, or motorcycle if you are brave enough, to navigate its rough surface and steep inclines especially at the top. For anyone interested in its precice location, look for a road between Mokhotlong in Lesotho and Underberg in KwaZulu-Natal. You need to look at the photos carefully to see the hairpin bends and I can assure you it is steeper than the photos show. We are grateful it is not raining or snowing!

A slight understatement for the Sani Pass

Sani Pass, South Africa

Blue arrow = crash barrier?

Sani Pass, South Africa

We make it safely to the bottom thanks to Anthony excellent steady driving before the heavens opened up again, the weather gods being on our side again.

Bottom of the Sani Pass, South Africa

A late lunch in a local pub before we make it to Anthony’s cousins and aunt for a few days, just north of Pietermaritzburg. A bit of family time next.

– Anne

Nov 8 2016

Birthdays and ‘boys’

During the Horizons Unlimited event we met Philippe, Gérard and Juan, three riders from Europe who we discovered were heading in the same direction for the next day or so. We decided that we would travel together towards Lesotho. After lunch on Sunday the riders departed first and we followed watching the grey storm clouds gathering in our direction of travel. Sometimes it’s good to be in an enclosed vehicle, just kidding, we will take our chances with the elements, let me just adjust the heating and aircon….

We agreed to meet in Petrus Styen, a small town with limited accommodations. We arrive expecting the ‘boys’ to be there, but no sign of them. We are concerned, given the weather that our ‘children’, as we now refer to them as, are lost, but maybe they found a more interesting route or different destination. We get settled in ready for a fine dinner of biscuits and cold meats, washed down with good red wine and they arrive. We must have taken different routes although both had a large dirt component. An advantage of a 4×4 over a motorbike is storage! We can carry more food and drink, so dinner for all is available.

Our ‘children’ have turned up and need accommodation

Anne has booked a surprise location for my birthday on the 8 November, the Kiara lodge, outside Clarens, close to the Golden Gate Highlands National Park, which I have never visited. We invite our new friends, and they accept, to join us for a pre birthday dinner there. We offer to lighten their loads as they plan some dirt road riding to Clarens. Bags quickly loaded and we become the ‘support vehicle’ following their twists and turns on good dirt roads. We are a little envious as we watch them ride through some great countryside. We are offered the opportunity to ride, but without any safety gear, thanks, but no thanks.

Dirt roads in the Free State

Dinner is a fine South African ‘braai’, or ‘barbie’ as we say at home. It is great to cook with wood again – in Australia we use gas at home. Wood is so much more interesting to cook with, well for me anyway.

Philippe, Juan and Gérard celebrating Anthony’s birthday

Anthony’s birthday, Clarens, South Africa

Anne has chosen the location well as usual, we have wonderful views which the photos do better justice than I can with my mere words. We travel into the National Park on two occasions, the lighting and scenery is spectacular. What a wonderful way to spend a birthday, I have now spent the last four birthdays on different continents, where will I be in 2017?

Golden Gate Highlands National Park

Black, not blue wildebeast

Newborn baby feeding

Stripes on the green

Panoramic view of the Golden gate highlands

Majestic stormclouds gathering in the mountains.

– Anthony

Nov 8 2016

Donald Trump wins: predicted by 2slowspeeds?

All the pundits said Clinton.

We woke to this news and like many others assumed that Hilary Clinton would win. However while in Washington DC in August 2015, I posted a blog entry on 25 August 2015 called ‘The Nation’s Capital’

White House and Trump coming in 2016

Predicting the future….in August 2015!

You can say you saw it first on 2slowspeeds.com in 2015!

– Anthony

Nov 6 2016

Fish river to the Vaal river

With a new clutch, and you can tell the difference when driving, fuel leak fixed and the handbrake adjusted, we set off westwards from Kolmanskop towards our next destination, the Fish River Canyon. Another well known tourist spot in Namibia, reputed to be the second deepest canyon after the Grand Canyon in the USA. After so much dirt road driving, its quite pleasurable to be on tar again. The temperature rises quickly and we are soon back into the high 30’s after the cool of Lüderitz.

Quiver tree, Namibia

We cross the Fish river and turn south on the C12, the surface seems a little rough for such an important road, but as we progress further south I realise that due to a washout, the authorities have moved the C12 to an adjacent road. The map I used to navigate here is out of date, but the GPS is correct. Always worth cross checking each of the map/GPS sources if you have them.

The fish river canyon is not crowded and we are able to wander along the edge alone surveying the vastness and depth of the canyon. Due to the heat, the Park Authorities have closed the walking trails, not that I would want to walk far anyway.

Looking south down the Fish river canyon.

Looking west over the Fish river canyon.

Breakfast at the edge of the canyon early next morning is our last in Namibia. Coffee and tea in hand, we watch the sunrise, through the clouds highlighting different facets of the rock below us.

Fish river canyon lookout for breakfast.

Anyone identify this plant at the Fish river canyon?

During some of our travels the road has paralleled railway lines. In the north of the country the railway is used to transport petroleum products to major centres from Walvis Bay. Thus keeping the petroleum tankers off the roads, not a bad thing. We have seen no trains in the south, however we have been told that the Chinese have been rehabilitating the railway from Lüderitz to the junction at Seeheim. We had not seen a single train south of Seeheim, which is the link to South Africa, until we came across a loco and single carriage heading north out of Karasburg.

Engine and one coach leaving Karasburg

Enthusiastic locals at Karasburg Namibia.

As we head towards the South African border, I reflect on all we have seen and done here in Namibia. We have covered a significant distance, met interesting people and seen a diverse set of landscapes. It would have been nicer to have more temperate weather, but perhaps the remote areas would have been more populated with 4×4 vehicles and then less to our liking. All in all we have had a fabulous time.

We pass Sishen, which is the 11th largest iron ore mine in the world, measured by remaining reserves. Infastructure stretches into the distance. Mining equipment, rail networks, shopping centres and housing. I understand that only 18 years of reserves exist at the current location and wonder what happens if no more commercial reserves are developed?

Sishen iorn ore mine in Kathu, Northern Cape Province

Our first rain – with double rainbow

Leading up to Red Sands Lodge, South Africa

Our first destination back in South Africa is Elgro River Lodge, a conference centre and game lodge on the banks of the Vaal river, south of Potchefstroom. Our reason? To attend the 3rd Horizons Unlimited South Africa Adventure Travellers Meeting. Horizons Unlimited (HU) http://www.horizonsunlimited.com is an organisation for motorcycle travellers such as ourselves. HU was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle. This event provides a great opportunity for motorcyclists to meet and exchange information as well as attend presentations and workshops.

Who looks away first loses

Johan Gray – motorcyclist trainer extraordinaire

We attended our 1st and only HU event in Queensland a couple of days before we left for Europe in September 2013 and look what happened to us on motorcycles! What we found was an exceptionally well run event by Korbus and his daughter Claudine. We reconnected with Grant and Susan, met a lovely Dutch/Australian couple Richard and Steph just starting their journey from Cape Town to Amsterdam . Oh the memories of starting a long distance trip. We are envious, but so pleased for them. What great adventures await them.

Steph and Richard leaving Horizons Unlimited, South Africa

We spend a couple of days with like minded individuals who have travelled extensively in Africa and beyond. We enjoyed our time there even though we were not on motorbikes.

– Anthony

Nov 2 2016

Lingering in Lüderitz

For some reason, our trusty Hilux is labouring going up the steep curved driveway at the hotel and smoking badly. Not good…. Not only do we seem to have lost the handbrake (which I discovered when I parked outside the hotel just now) but something is badly wrong here. Clutch we suspect. We will have to call Bushlore first thing in the morning. We are 460kms from Swakopmund and 830kms from Windhoek and there is only one car repair close by.

Our priority today is to get our 4×4 seen to by a mechanic following our smoky arrival last night. There is no Toyota specialist in Lüderitz, but we are told to go to Udo’s Car Service so off we walk over. Udo is busy but is happy to have a look at our 4×4 sometime today if we bring it over. I am not sure if I will be able to drive over or if he will have to collect it. I can give it a go. Reversing out and around the parked car in the tight sloped parking area is nerve wracking – I hear some horrid metal noises and I am worried the clutch will completely fail as I try to back up from a brand new Audi but luckily make it to Udo’s. Not hearing from him for 6 hours, we decide to walk back to Udo’s and see how things are going. Here is what we find:

Udo staff removing our gear box to get to the clutch

Udo confirms it is the clutch, it is not completely dead but he has already spoken to Bushlore who have agreed to send new parts overnight from Windhoek. What brilliant service on the part of both Udo and Bushlore.

So our overnight stay in Lüderitz turns into a 3 night stop over. We make the most of our time to walk around Lüderitz, which doesn’t take long as it is so small, and we quickly find our new regular favourite spots: we find a great quaint and quirky tea house with a gorgeous back garden full of flowers, herbs and one giant tortoise and a good restaurant. Lüderitz has a population of around 12,500 inhabitants and has a somewhat eery feel, built on rocks, sandwiched between the wild South Atlantic Coast and the barren Namib Desert, with the winds whipping up every afternoon, suspended in time with some pristine German art nouveau architecture and signs of its mining past. Although the Lüderitz economy is linked to the fishing and crayfish industry these days, the port was quiet while we were there as the fishing season was closed at this time of the year but we did see a cruise ship which visits once a month. We had not planned on spending that long here but we are glad we did.

Kirchen Str, Lüderitz

Mais, Katia and Luciano asked me to take a photo of them – Lüderitz

Cheeky Katia – Lüderitz

Sweet Luciano – Lüderitz

Trendy Mais – Lüderitz

Notice on Felsenkirche door, Lüderitz

Lüderitz Port

Felsenkirche, Lüderitz

Hammer and Pick found on many houses in Lüderitz

Udo’s car service in Lüderitz

Slow wifi is only available in the hotel lobby so we make the most of our time there to upload photos and catch up on blog entries while chatting with other travellers and Graham whom we ended up having dinner with twice.

We return to Udo’s at 4pm: our 4×4 is ready so we can leave Lüderitz tomorrow.

Our next stop, 15kms out of town, is Kolmanskop: a diamond mining town abandoned 100 years ago, on the edge of Sperrgebiet National Park, or “Forbidden Area”. The best preserved building, which was the entertainment hall, now houses a fantastic collection of photos, historical information and descriptions of some ingenious and risky smuggling methods such as homing pigeons, crossbows, radios, on and in their body or even involving security couriers. It is strange to see how a vibrant community, where residents were paid in diamonds, ended up this a ghost town swallowed up by the sand and I cannot help but wonder how many of those residents lead a happy life after making the exorbitant amount of money they made while here…

Kolmanskop, Namibia

Fish River here we come….

– Anne

2slowspeeds

Loving life – Turning Dreams into Memories

Category General

Down the Sani Pass

Birthdays and ‘boys’

Donald Trump wins: predicted by 2slowspeeds?

Fish river to the Vaal river

Lingering in Lüderitz

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this: