Dec 4 2014

Train trip to Bangkok brings back childhood memories

It is funny how excited we both are to be taking a train into Bangkok today. Something we haven’t done in ages. We’ve both loved travelling by train over the years: you have time to look out of the window at the scenery (and day dream as I have always done) and we also invariably meet interesting people. It seems like a great adventure! Funny how we crave out-of-the-ordinary experiences – whatever our ‘ordinary’ is! As we wait on the platform, a ‘local’ expat we get chatting to is surprised we haven’t taken a taxi to get to Bangkok. Much quicker and more comfortable he tells us. That’s not what we’re looking for – we have all afternoon and evening.

Chris, an ex-colleague of Anthony’s who hosted one of my exhibitions in Oman years ago, is now living in Jakarta but working in Bangkok and we haven’t seen him for 3 years already. The train journey is (meant to be) 2 hours according to the train schedule, so we leave Ayuttahaya at lunch time after a quick and tasty road side meal near the station.

Ayutthaya train station with local tuk-tuks

Over the last few months, I have often wished I had taken photos of certain things, and then it’s too late as the opportunity has passed. There was another such occasion when the train arrival was announced by a train guard, dressed in immaculate uniform which looked as smart as any military personnel, ringing a huge beautifully polished brass bell. Our train which half freight half passenger stops at the platform just long enough for 3 of the 7 carriages. Passengers get onto the train from the track, on both sides of the train.

Our train to Bankgok is arriving on the right

A modern train with closing doors is boarded from both sides at Ayutthaya station

We travel 3rd class with natural air conditioning, all the windows and doors are wide open. The train is quite packed so we keep walking back to the next carriage: it is a great old rattly train, all the doors are open – no concern with health and safety here!! The breeze in our faces brings back memories. For Anthony, travelling a train with windows and doors open to the elements is pure joy. He has always loved train travel since his first recollections in 1963 when he was eight and his family returned from South Africa on the Royal Mail Ship RMS Pendennis Castle and travelled by steam hauled trains from Southampton from Durham. He has always like to be able to poke his head out the window – he reckons he probably has some dog in his genetic makeup. Any family members experience the same? Over the years with safely and air-conditioning this opportunity has disappeared in the western world, but luckily for us, not here.

We end up in the last carriage. This carriage, it turns out, is reserved for aged, monks and handicapped, with the last 3 rows reserved for train guards. Oh well, the guard doesn’t mind us being there – we obviously fit in one of those categories!!

Loved the Registered trademark symbol ® to make this more ‘official’!!

Anthony sits next to a gentleman who moved his bags to make space for us but I spotted a spare seat further up the carriage. I get chatting wih my seat companion: my age, this Thai lady has been living in London for the past 25 years, having opened their own Thai restaurant in Kensington. Funny world or rather funny creatures we human beings are. We both left our home countries 25 years ago, she left South East Asia for the UK, and we left the UK for Australia and here we both are on the same rattly train… It’s like our excitement at travelling by train today. Do we not get enough excitement travelling as we do on motorcycles? To both us, it is an exciting experience because it is different to our norm.

We spend a lovely evening in a Cuban bar with Chris, catching up on each other’s news and recent experiences. The return journey took 3 hours but for the memories such a train journey brought back and the new ones it created, it was worth it.

– Anne

Dec 3 2014

Our route and plans for January 2015

We realise that there has been some confusion as to what our plans are once we get to Australia at the end of this month. To make it all clear, I’ll step back in time and explain how this trip all came about.

Back in April 2013, we decided that we wanted to spend time with our families in Europe and I had a strong feeling that if we didn’t do this now, I would regret it. So we booked ourselves a one way ticket using frequent flyer points. Spending those 9 months with family was one of best things we’ve done.

Then we had to look at the return journey. To this day, neither of us can remember who came up with the idea of riding back on motorcycles…. As the saying goes, the rest is history :-).

While in Europe, we started looking into prices of motorcycles. We tried to see if we could buy motorcycles built for Australian design rules so that we could import them into Australia (knowing that the models we were interested in had not gone through the necessary certification for private importation). Neither BMW nor Triumph could help us there. Ok, we can’t bring bikes into Australia, we’ll just do a whole Round The World trip instead. The plot thickened when we found out that residents of a country are not allowed to temporarily import vehicles into their country on a Carnet de Passage (a Carnet is a customs document which allows travellers to temporarily import their vehicles without having to leave a cash deposit at the border). We were going to have UK registered bikes, on a UK Carnet de Passage which is valid for 12 months. So now, we can’t even bring the bikes into Australia, even just for a few weeks. Ok, we’ll just leave the bikes in Kuala Lumpur for 4-5 weeks while we go back to Australia and collect them again end of January 2016, when we’ll ship them and ourselves to South America.

Where exactly in South America we are not sure yet as it depends on what deals we manage to get – we’ve been working on that but haven’t firmed anything up yet. Our original thought had been to fly to Santiago and head up the west coast of South America etc but shipping the bikes there is problematic because it would entail using two airlines from KL and that means extra handling, and, yes, you guessed it, cost… The other option is to go to Sao Paulo, and find a boat to take us all down the Amazon. Looking into that too.

After South America, Central America, Mexico, and the USA, we’ll fly back to Europe from New York, sometime towards the end of July 2016.

Time to see our families again for a while, park our bikes somewhere in Europe and then we still have to work out how we’ll get home to Australia sometime… We are the 2 Slow Speeds – we’ll work it out sometime!! :-).

In the meantime, we will have had an absolutely fantastic time, learned so much, seen the world and people with new eyes, made new friends. And thanks to you all, our followers, we will have a diary of what we did, where we went, how we felt, who we met, all the details our memories couldn’t retain as we’ve experienced so much, because if it wasn’t for you and your comments and emails we received along the way, we might not have perservered with the blog.

We arrive in Sydney on 26th December and Brisbane 28th December and plan to fly back to Kuala Lumpur 28th January 2015. We will have lots to do as we will have been away for 15 months and we hope to catch with as many friends as possible during our time back home.

– Anne

Dec 3 2014

The eerie yet serene headless Budhas of Ayutthaya

We heard of Ayutthaya and its temples through some fellow guests in a hotel some weeks back and decided it was the perfect spot to spend a few days and avoid going into Bangkok which we had both been to a number of times in the past. If we want to go into Bangkok for any reason, we could take the train from there as a day trip.

What a fascinating and once again turbulent history this city has had! Ayutthaya, founded in 1350, used to be the Siamese capital and one of the largest 17th century cities in the world but was attacked and razed by the Burmese army in 1767. The city was never rebuilt and remains an archaeological site, designated as a UNESCO world heritage site. When you visit Ayutthaya and see how they have looked after the whole site, you can understand why Old Bagan in Myanmar was refused that status. (Although I think it deserves some assistance to achieve this recognition as it too is a site worth preserving for future generations. Unfortunately, the Myanmar military’s keenest to rebuild ruins with some artistic licence compromised the archaelogical integrity of the site, much to archeologists and historians’ horror and ultimately against Unesco’s approval.)

I am keen to visit our first temple shortly after we arrive at our guesthouse. Anthony is always so accommodating!! Wat Mahathat is just 5′ walk away. Our timing, as is so often the case, is impeccable: it is close to closing time and the few tourists in town around have nearly all left. We see a glorious red sunset in the distance.

Wat Mahathat was the residence of the Supreme Patriarch or leader of the Thai Buddhist monks and is the most sacred of all temples in Ayatthaya for it is said to contain relics of Bhudda. It is also home to the Budha head in a Bodhi tree – a serene Budha head cradled in the roots of a huge old Bodhi tree. Exactly how the Budha head ended up there is still unclear – many speculating it was dropped by looters stealing and running away with many of the decapitated heads left behind after the Burmese destroyed most of the temples.

Budha head in a Bodhi tree, Wat Mahathat, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Buddha head in Bodhi tree, Wat Mahathat, Ayutthaya, Thailand

While the sight of rows and rows of headless Budhas is eerie, there is a palpapable serenity in these beautiful grounds, the meditating Budhas were still oozing their gentleness and peacefulness out to the world.

Wat Mahathat, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Sun setting on Wat Mahathat, Ayutthaya

Anthony was good enough to come out as soon as we arrived, and I am so happy to have visited Wat Maha That and see the iconic smiling budha head in the bodhi tree, I am happy to return to the guesthouse and let him relax. Good thing!!! We find out that Ayutthaya has a big problem with dogs! They go out at night in packs and there have been several instances of them attacking and biting people, who have then had to have several anti-rabies vaccinations. Great. A dog only needs to smell me from a distance and it runs up at me to sink its teeth into me!! Really!!! It has happened too many times. We’ll go to a restautant by tuk-tuk!!!

We spend 4 nights in Promtong Mansion – a gorgeous, and cheap, guesthouse in itself, but Jeeda, the owner makes it the absolutely friendliest place we’ve stayed at so far. A must stay at place for anyone visiting Ayutthaya!!!

The next couple of days are spent lazily discovering many of the temples, relaxing, uploading photos, sleeping, and looking into places to stay at on the south west coast – there are so many options, but mostly too expensive, it is overwhelming and no decision is made!!! We don’t even know when we’ll get to the vicinity of those beaches, and we don’t want to feel rushed now that we have sufficient time to make it to KL in time.

So much is written on each of the temples of Ayutthaya, I will simply let you wander through the some of archealogical site through the following photos. Wat Yai Chai Mongkhol was renovated in 1982, hence all the perfect Budhas.

Wat Chaiwathanaram, Ayutthaya, Thailand

37m long reclining Budha, Wat Yai Chai Monghol, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Worshipper’s incense and lotus flower at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhol, Ayutthata

Wat Yai Chai Monghol, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Seeing the temples at night gave a totally different perspective, the ruins standing out more clearly and majestically. In case you wondered, we went by tuk-tuk and happily drove by the packs of dogs!!

Wat Ratchaburana, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Wat Phra Si Samphet, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Tomorrow 4th December, we’re going to Bangkok by train for dinner with a friend. Looking forward to this trip – a different little adventure!!
– Anne

Dec 1 2014

Vientiane

In the fading early evening light we gaze out across the Mekong river, from where we sit having dinner at a street restaurant in Vientiane, at the road in Thailand which we hitchhiked along some 28 years previously! The streetlights across the river reflect into the Mekong. The vertical patterns that they make remind me of pictures I saw in Dallas years ago of a business associate’s children’s DNA that he had made into pictures. I guess as we are now older and have more memories everything new that we see and explore has the potential to be linked to something in our past, interesting thought.

Dinner by the Mekong at Vientiane, Laos

Lights of Thailand seen across the Mekong from Vientiane, Laos

We had a delicious prawn dinner at this restaurant, Vientiane, Laos

Vientiane has turned out to be a relaxing city, not too big with a population 200,000 at the last census in 2008 and easy to get around. Our first experience of the city was driving in from the north. Normally we have found that as we enter large cites or capitals such as Vientiane, roads widen with extra lanes added and an impressive approach is created. We find none of this and speculate that the nature of the mountainous terrain to the north means that the small population, which the available flat arable land supports, does not warrant such an approach road. I think this was confirmed on our departure to the south and the large wide highway we discovered as we headed to Thailand.

Our hotel, close to the river is excellent and reasonably priced. The benefit of the internet and the time others take to record their experiences allows a much easier selection of accommodation that meets ones own criteria. In our case, clean, quiet air-conditioner/fan and en-suite. In the past, verbal recommendations and much walking were involved in securing appropriate accommodation. Of course it should be noted we had less money and therefore were less fussy in our youth.

Our gorgeous guesthouse, the Mali Namphu, in Vientiane, Laos

We found a large variety of cafés and restaurants including a couple of Scandinavian bakeries alongside the usual French ones. It is always interesting to see what businesses become established for tourists or expats as we travel. One thing we have noticed here is the lack of parking for cars. The plethora of mopeds, scooters and small motorcycles can be catered for, but cars just park on the pavement/sidewalk making walking some distance almost impossible. Most people use their two wheeled transport or tuk-tuks to get around. The exception to this is the road and walkway along the Mekong river, which is turned into pedestrian only access at dusk. The area is then filled with locals, walking, cycling, skateboarding and even dancing as the sun slowly sets in the west. A large market also springs up each night with hundreds of stalls all aimed at the locals, not us tourists. As in the rest of Laos there is no pressure from vendors and touts trying to market their wares. We have considered the possibility based on our observations that the harder life is, the more desperate people are to sell and what role if any does culture play. Any thoughts on this?

French legacy is still found everywhere, Vientiane, Laos

Rice basket seller in Vientiane, Laos

Big cars take over pavements in Vientiane, Laos

Patuxai, Vientiane’s Arc de Triomphe, Laos

That Dam, or Black stupa, Vientiane, Laos

While the areas we have visited in Laos have been unaffected by war in recent times, large swathes of the country still suffer from the effects of unexploded munitions dropped from the mid 1960’s to 1973. The needs of those injured have been met by Cooperative Orthotic Prosthetic Enterprise (COPE). While COPE grew out of the needs of those injured by unexploded munitions, their scope has grown to now cover those with disabilities from other causes. The museum has a stark reminder of the damage and suffering that is caused by war, but also showed people’s ingenuity in using parts of the munitions for making everything from scythes to storage containers. Well worth a visit.

We arrive at the Great Sacred Stupa (Pha That Luang) just after 16:00 to find it has closed. The sun is slowly going down and the golden glow of the setting sun is reflected back from the stupa with increasing intensity as we stroll around the quiet complex. The tourists have left, vendors are packing up the remaining stalls and chatting to tuk-tuk drivers that missed out on the last fares back to the hotels. The tranquility of the moment is echoed by the rhythmic shushing sounds the monks’ brushes make while sweeping leaves from the square around the stupa. Again we are lucky with timing even though it was not planned.

Pha That Luang, Vientiane, Laos

Monks brushing up leaves at Pha That Luang, Vientiane, laos

Crossing the Mekong, again for the second time brings us back to Thailand, see Visas and admin as usual for details, and we ride past Nong Khai recalling our first and only live kickboxing match we have seen back in 1986, before we even set foot in Australia.

Crossing the Mekong, between Laos and Thailand

We are heading south and towards home, we are both looking forward to that. We have been travelling and living on the road for some 14 months and the break for a month at home in Australia is going to be most welcome.

– Anthony

Nov 28 2014

A most glorious ride in Laos

As we check out of our gorgeous hotel in Luang Prabang, Anthony finds out that there is a new route to Vang Vieng: a small short cut road across the top of the mountains was upgraded last year and is in good condition and cuts out the very twisty main road to Phoukhoun. Turn off the 4 road, half way between Luang Prabang and Sayaboury at Poungdong, and head towards Kasi. Easy! First time we’ve heard of this route!! As there are hardly any villages along that route, the traffic is likely to be much lighter. Worth trying it out.

So we say our goodbyes, thank the nightwatchman who kept an eye on our bikes for the last few days and off we go. It always feels great to be back on the bikes, heading out into the unknown. It is 9am and pretty cool so we decide to close all the vents on our jackets but opt out of putting an extra layer on. It is 18 degrees. Definitely cool for us!! Time for the heated grips to come on. And they stay on for a couple of hours, until the sun has burnt off the cloud layer.

We find the turn off easily and up the mountain we head. We stop several times, taking in the stunning scenery. I am feeling great. I am loving this gently twisty road, the light traffic. I had sorted my silly little head and my problem with the right hand hairpin bends (because it is all in the head). I had thought about it over the last few days and had worked out how to get over it: ride the bike on the pegs as I had done relatively well during our off-road training course, and again on the forest trail on that 2nd day in Myanmar. It worked. Problem solved. So now I can really enjoy this delicious road.

Heading south east from Poungdong towards Kasi, Laos

On our road to Kasi, Laos

The crests of mountains have peaked out of the clouds. The butterflies flutter all around us again. The road takes us higher and higher, until we get above the tree line. The scenery is breathtaking. It is our kind of scenery. While the scenery from the Thai border to Sayaboury was incredible, with the most dense jungle and steep cliff gorges we’ve ever seen, I did feel claustrophobic. There was nowhere to go, impossible to stop or turn off. Here though, you could see far far away, and feel wonderfully insignificant.

Laos

Still going up, Laos

And up… , Laos

We reached above 2000 metres. Here is a Google Earth photo of our route.

Google Earth view of our road to Kasi, Laos

We’ve nearly reached the top 2000m, Laos

At one point, I comment to Anthony how we haven’t seen any animals in Laos. And a few minutes later, a long snake slithers across the road right in front of Anthony. It was nice to finally see some wildlife.

Then we go down, and down and down the mountain. It seems like forever. Even though the road is only a year old, we come across quite a few patches under repair due to landslides – once repaired though, that means loose deep gravel as there hasn’t been enough traffic to pack it down yet. A couple of wobbly moments, but steady pace and loose shoulders, and we’re through each one easily. One patch is being retarred and suddenly, Anthony’s bike slides left and right and left. Eeek! I see that and manage to switch to the dirt part in time. There’ll be some serious cleaning of his bike next!!!

Today is one of the most glorious bike rides I have ever done.

Once down in the valley, we enjoy seeing all the school kids riding home for lunch, mostly cycling and holding an umbrella. The girls wear the traditional skirt: a dark coloured wrap around skirt, with a lighter coloured and beautifully woven strip around the bottom.

School kids heading home for lunch, Laos

Young Lao boy in Kasi

Young Lao girl in Kasi

Anthony in a reflective mood at our lunch stop, Laos

Between Kasi and Vang Vieng, Laos

Tangerine vendors between Kasi and Vang Vieng, Laos

Between Kasi and Vang Vieng, Laos

Ban Pha Tang, Laos

We get to Vang Vieng and it doesn’t take us long to decide that we will not be staying tomorrow even though we have paid for 2 nights. Too bad. Although I had read that this place had been ‘cleaned up’ over the last couple of years, (too many drunken parties, drugs, thumping music etc), it still has a long way to go. All the daytime activities are for adrenaline seeking young folk. Not our style. And in the evening, we start to see and hear the effects of too much alcohol. The hotel owner was very accommodating when I asked for another room: after being there a couple of hours, I realised the rooster mext door was never going to stop crowing and would drive me mad. Talking to the owner, we found out the neighbours kept fighting roosters – they were indeed never going to stop!! Not until the hotel owner decided to get some dinner one day…

A lovely but nothing special ride to Vientiane the next day. Just a couple of photo opportunities. When we get to a longer patch under repair am I able to take a photo (while riding as usual). Once again, we are lucky to be here during the dry season – wet mud is something we are still learning to master!! The road deteriorates badly with nasty potholes as we get closer to the capital. It is worse for 4 or more wheels but we can generally avoid most of them and take the opportunity to overtake the slower trucks and coaches as they slow down to avoid them.

Heading for Vientiane, Laos

We are out of the mountains, Laos

The most beautiful sight on our ride today, the 2nd photo opportunity, was that of a young Laos lady walking through a village with a bright green paper umbrella casually resting on her shoulder. The sun shone through the bright umbrella, her walk and slight shoulder movement making the bright light shimmer. A brief magical sight which I wasn’t quick enough to capture well on camera but which will stick in our memory.

– Anne

2slowspeeds

Loving life – Turning Dreams into Memories

Tag Archives: UK to Australia 2014

Train trip to Bangkok brings back childhood memories

Our route and plans for January 2015

The eerie yet serene headless Budhas of Ayutthaya

Vientiane

A most glorious ride in Laos

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this: