Kuala Lumpur – Pack and Plan

As I look out over the the rain swept city of Kuala Lumpur from our eyrie in the executive lounge on the 21st floor of the Hilton Petaling Jaya, I can look back and recall all we have seen and done in the last six months travelling through 20 countries, numerous time zones and over 21,500 km. At the start of this journey in June, Christmas 2014 seemed to be a distant place in time and space. Wind forward six months and we only have a couple of days left before we board our flight to Sydney. We have seen so much, learnt a little, and met amazing people, yet our path is but a thin line across half the world. How many more wonderful experiences exist, just outside our field of view and touch that others can and have explored. We could have spent extra time in the places we visited, let alone all the ones we did not reach. Maybe some of our followers will tread that path someday in the future and share with us the wondrous experiences and feelings that they have.

Winding back a few days, after the pleasure of George Town’s art and deco, we had a somewhat wet ride from George Town in Penang to Kuala Lumpur. Considering that we have now had six days of rain in six months travelling, we have no complaints there, but it does remind me that I need to replace the scratched and brown tinged visor that used to be crystal clear, as the rain on top of six months wear and tear downgrades my vision considerably. We realised fairly early on that the usage we put all our clothing and equipment to since we started equals years of use by an average rider. Maybe we can take the equipment back to the manufacturer after 12 months of field testing and see if they will swap them to benefit from our testing program? Anne’s gloves being a good example as they leave Anne’s hands dark blue every time they get wet.

More rain all the way to Kuala Lumpur today

More rain all the way to Kuala Lumpur today


Such horrific quarrying - earth seemed to scream in pain, Malaysia

Such horrific quarrying – earth seemed to scream in pain, Malaysia


Our arrival in Kuala Lumpur was less than auspicious, we were refused permission to unload our panniers at the entrance of the Hilton Petaling Jaya and directed two levels down a wet and slippery spiral entrance to a sub basement for motorcycles. Our way into the hotel was via the staff only entry. In all our travels on this trip, we have not been treated as badly at a hotel. A quick firm chat with the duty manager explaining our view of the treatment had two members of staff come to the sub basement, but they need a taxi to get all our panniers and bags back up to the entrance!

First order of business was to get the bikes to BMW for the next service and for them to look for a resolution to Anne’s throttle lag under hard acceleration. We need to resolve this here as it has been and continues to be a risk for Anne while riding. Anne is able to manage this by careful planning when overtaking etc, but a permanent solution is needed. We thought this had been fixed in Thailand after a part changeover, but it resurfaced after a couple of days.

While we take the freeway to BMW, alongside and separate is a motorbike pathway, which when traffic is snarled up, seems to nip a long at a fast pace, but the lack of road signs means we stick to the freeway. All the major motor manufacturers are represented, Mercedes, Honda, Citroen, Mazda etc, a reminder we are back in the developed world. After dropping off the motorbikes, we head to Sunny Cycle, a motorcycle repair shop and showroom that Anne read about on the Horizons Unlimited forum. We are greeted by a busy workshop and well stocked showroom. Anne finds a pair of waterproof trousers to replace the bike jeans and I discover the first place to buy replacement oil for our chain oilers since we left the UK.

We meet Sunny of Sunny Cycles who has been running a motorcycle business for 34 years, which he now shares the workload with his wife, sons and daughters. A real family business. He is a genuine motorcycle and travel enthusiast and wants to hear more about our trip. We ask for a place to eat and the next thing we know we are in a car with Sunny and off to a local Chinese restaurant for an excellent meal and much green tea. Sunny takes a road trip at least every two months up to Thailand and beyond and has 80,000km on his current motorbike. Sunny offers store our motorbikes and baggage for the month before shipment by airfreight. A very generous offer and one that makes our departure from Kuala Lumpur much easier if we are airfreighting.

Sunny from Sunny Cycle took us out for lunch to an old Chinese restaurant, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Sunny from Sunny Cycle took us out for lunch to an old Chinese restaurant, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia


On the subject of shipping, our next priority, we have made a number of enquiries for air shipment, but interestingly have found the majority of the various organisations we have contacted either non responsive or difficult to get followup details from after the initial contact or quotation. The exception has been an organisation in Singapore that has responded to our every question. Our current plan is to ship via sea to Buenos Aires at the end of December, we shall confirm over the next couple of days.

Time certainly does fly and we are now packing up everything for the second phase of this journey which is planned to start at the end of January 2015. With our timing and the barriers to entry for our bikes into Australia, this is as far East as we can go without having to come back to ship the bikes to South America. The choice of the Hilton hotel has allowed the flexibility to spread out across the room as we work out what needs to go forward, brought home or left behind and do lots of hand washing.

Time to freshen up the helmets in Kuala Lumpur

Time to freshen up the helmets in Kuala Lumpur

The contents of the Kitchen/Bathroom pannier

The contents of the Kitchen/Bathroom pannier

Dye still running out of Anne's gloves

Dye still running out of Anne’s gloves


While it might seem to the uninitiated that all we do is work, we did manage to spend some time in Kuala Lumpur seeing the sights. In addition to the obligatory Petronas Towers, Anne wished to see the butterfly house situated in a large park close to the railway station. It was wonderful to see so many, although without the sun they were less active. In addition we found a huge bird aviary which is covered but open air all one one in a valley in the park. Covering some 21 hectares we saw many different birds and even got to feed one.
Butterfly park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Butterfly park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Kuala Lumpur bird park, Malaysia

Kuala Lumpur bird park, Malaysia

Anthony feeding a Rhinoceros Hornbill, Kuala Lumpur bird park, Malaysia

Anthony feeding a Rhinoceros Hornbill, Kuala Lumpur bird park, Malaysia

Rhinoceros Hornbill, Kuala Lumpur bird park, Malaysia

Rhinoceros Hornbill, Kuala Lumpur bird park, Malaysia

End of this leg of our trip, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

End of this leg of our trip, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia


Three more sleeps and we will be in Australia.

Anthony

Feasting in George Town

We have not been seeking them out specifically, but once again, we are about to visit another UNESCO heritage listed site. George Town, on the Malaysian island and capital of the state of Penang, has had a very culturally diversified history and in July 2008 UNESCO formally recognised George Town’s unique architecture and cultural townscape by inscribing it as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

George Town went through tremendous transformation from its humble beginning in the late 18th century as the first British Straits settlement, from a swampy frontier town to a bustling trading post. George Town’s architecture reflects the various ethnicities that settled here over 2 centuries – Chinese, Indians, Arabs, Malays, Achehnese, Siamese, Burmese and Europeans each bringing their own building styles such as Indo-Malay palladian, Anglo-Indian and Sino-Anglo bungalows, neo-classical, art deco, and modern, together with mosques, churches, and Chinese and Indian temples.

In an effort to make George Town world heritage zone easily recognisable, as Seville did by planting orange trees along the streets within their world heritage zone, the “Marking George Town” competition was launched by the Penang State Government in 2009. It encouraged innovative ideas in art and design for public spaces in George Town. Out of all the local and international entries, Sculptureatwork triumphed with its design concept of ‘voices from the people’, a series of 52 unique and humorous annecdotal illustrations of George Town’s colourful history in the form of iron rod sculptures, installed against the city’s building walls.

George Town Festival 2012 commissioned “Marking George Town” by Ernest Zacharevic, a young Lithuanian born artist from George Town, a project designed to turn the streets of George Town into an open air art gallery. His murals celebrate the living heritage of the city’s inhabitants.

“101 Lost Kittens” was originally a project by a group of artists working to install a dozen street art at various points within the George Town UNESCO World Heritage Site to raise awareness of the plight of stray animals and became part of George Town Festival 2013.

I have been looking forward to discovering George Town tomorrow, and didn’t expect to stumble across so much street art this evening on our way to dinner, a few minutes down the road from our hotel which is well outside the Unesco zone.

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George atown, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Anyone who knows me will be able to imagine my inexhaustible excitement, at each corner and discovery of a new piece of art, turning around, looking back and noticing another one tucked away down a small alley. The artworks themselves are wonderful. But it is the courage and foresight of both UNESCO and George Town council to support and encourage such artworks that warmed my heart. If only others around the world were so bold… I had a constant smile on my face, at seeing each clever and inspiring piece but also watching other people’s enjoyment. I get the same enjoyment observing nature, noticing the smallest detail, which is there for all to see, only if we take the time to stop and admire… Anthony enjoyed the street art too but spent most of his time patiently waiting for me to be ready to walk on, mostly enjoying the sparkle in my eyes he tells me 🙂

Shorn Hair sculpture, George Town, Penang

Shorn Hair sculpture, George Town, Penang


Cannon Street sculpture, George Town, Penang

Cannon Street sculpture, George Town, Penang

Boy on a chair - George Town, Penang

Boy on a chair – George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang

Procession sculpture, George Town, Penang

Procession sculpture, George Town, Penang

Anne giving this little girl a real fright, George Town, Penang

Anne giving this little girl a real fright, George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang (30cm tall)

Street art, George Town, Penang (30cm tall)

Huge mural about learning to speak Hokkien, George Town, Penang

Huge mural about learning to speak Hokkien, George Town, Penang

Too Narrow sculpture, George Town, Penang

Too Narrow sculpture, George Town, Penang


Lion Dance, George Town, Penang

Lion Dance, George Town, Penang

Storyteller sculpture, George Town. Penang

Storyteller sculpture, George Town. Penang

Kids on Bicycle, George Town, Penang

Kids on Bicycle, George Town, Penang

This one made me smile - George Town, Penang

This one made me smile – George Town, Penang

Skippy, George Town, Penang

Skippy, George Town, Penang

The Rat was painted after Skipyy - George Town, Penang

The Rat was painted after Skipyy – George Town, Penang

Love Me Like Your Fortune Cat - George Town, Penang

Love Me Like Your Fortune Cat – George Town, Penang

I Want Bao! - George Town, Penang

I Want Bao! – George Town, Penang

Cats & Humans Happily Living Together - George Town, Penang

Cats & Humans Happily Living Together – George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang

Boy on a Motorbike - George Town, Penang

Boy on a Motorbike – George Town, Penang

Nasi Kandar sculpture, George Town, Penang

Nasi Kandar sculpture, George Town, Penang

Bullock cart wheel sculpture, George Town, Penang

Bullock cart wheel sculpture, George Town, Penang

Little Boy with Pet Dinosaur - George Town, Penang

Little Boy with Pet Dinosaur – George Town, Penang

Gold Teeth sculpture, George Town, Penang

Gold Teeth sculpture, George Town, Penang

Tok tok Mee sculpture, George Town, Penang

Tok tok Mee sculpture, George Town, Penang

Jimmy Choo sculpture, George Town, Penang

Jimmy Choo sculpture, George Town, Penang

Trishaw Man, Ernest Zacharevic's last mural, George Town, Penang

Trishaw Man, Ernest Zacharevic’s last mural, George Town, Penang

We also visited a fantastic little museum. The first part was dedicated to the history of Penang, and the last part to 3D art. Here are a couple of fun examples.

Interactive 3D Museum, George Town, Panang

Interactive 3D Museum, George Town, Panang

Interactive 3D Museum, George Town, Panang

Interactive 3D Museum, George Town, Panang

Not only is the street art so joyous, but we both love talking to the locals, observing all the small businesses still thriving here such as the printmaker who still uses a massive 70 year old printing machine to print receipt books and ledgers for local businesses. I could easily have spent a week in George Town, loving its rich history, cultural diversity and architecture. We will just have to come back one day but for now, Kuala Lumpur is calling us as we need to get the bikes serviced and Streak fixed before our next leg – the new part installed in Chiang Mai didn’t fix my problem and came back the day we left Chiang Mai.

– Anne

Coast to Coast, Relaxation Rediscovered

Golden sand, clear blue water and lunch under the palms. We are taking a few days out from travelling, for a relaxing few days away from motorcycle travel and blogs, aaaaah here I am writing a blog entry, oh well let’s continue…

The warm ocean breeze wafts across our faces as we walk from our bungalow down towards the sea. We have spent so long encased in riding gear that the rare chance to just wear swimmers and swim in the ocean have seen us stay an extra day here. Where is here you ask? A small place we found yesterday after leaving the tourist town of Hua Hin. We are now some 160km south near the town of Bang Saphan. Following smaller roads and then tracks has us just off the beach. This is an undeveloped area with small hotels and guest houses. A wonderful find and the type of place that we look for as we travel, friendly people, small places and good food. The pleasure of staying here and the rampant tourism of Hua Hin has made us realise that Phuket is not for us and we will bypass the place, it holds no interest of us in its current form. The facilities that those places provide are not what we generally seek as we travel, great for others but not our scene except in small doses as the stay at the Hilton at Hua Hin provided. I still feel that I do not belong in such luxurious places and am there under false pretences.

We have found it difficult over the last week to focus on this portion of the trip as we try to work out the logistics of 2015. Part of the problem is that our return to Australia is focused on medical tests, and therefore any follow on treatments in the event of an adverse result. This coupled with the lack of quotes for the shipment of the bikes leaves us a little in limbo. Still just another challenge for us to tackle that is part of the journey.

A bar on the edge of the beach provides a convenient meeting place for many of the ‘locals’ of European or American origin. Many are retired but some have jobs that allow them to work from any location provided they have internet access, judging by the number of communication cables that festoon the power poles in every towns Main Street that is a given here, although not always that quick. It is interesting to hear the individual stories of those who have moved here. Most have not been back home for many years and have no desire to do so. One of our hosts at Bang Saphan, Larry, moved to Thailand some 30 years ago. He and his wife run a relaxed and friendly guest house with pool just a minute from the beach. They have lived in different parts of Southern Thailand and now settled on this wonderful place that is still reasonably undeveloped.

Our guesthouse at Bang Saphan, Thailand

Our guesthouse at Bang Saphan, Thailand


Anne is loving this deserted beach at Bang Saphan, Thailand

Anne is loving this deserted beach at Bang Saphan, Thailand


Bang Saphan beach, Thailand

Bang Saphan beach, Thailand

As part of Rest and Relaxation (R&R) plan, Anne found a nice hotel, adults only which we found out from fellow guests once there and a first for us, on the west coast at Khao Lak, about 50 or so kilometres north of Phuket. This area was one of many on the west coast of Thailand affected by the Tsunami in December 2009 and the rebuilding of hotels and other facilities will have restored the tourist employment to the area. Having seen pictures of the destruction at the time, it was surprising to find large trees intact up to the beach. I can only assume that the impact of the 2009 tsunami was less here than in other places closer to the epicentre . We enjoyed three days of relaxation and exposure to sun sea and sand. What a wonderful change: a relaxed pace, swimming twice a day, playing with the frisbee we always carry with us and seeing the beautiful and ever changing sunsets that Anne diligently recorded each evening. What struck us both as we first walked to the beach was how wonderful it was to feel the air and gentle breeze on our skin. Usually, only our face gets this feeling.

Our lnch spot at Khao Lak, Thailand

Our lunch spot at Khao Lak, Thailand

Anthony has always loved building dams and waterways - Khao Lak, Thailand

Anthony has always loved building dams and waterways – Khao Lak, Thailand

Resort beach, Khao Lak, Thailand

Resort beach, Khao Lak, Thailand

Enjoying a beach sunset, Khao Lak

Enjoying a beach sunset, Khao Lak


Sunset on our frisbee bay at Khao Lak, Thailand

Sunset on our frisbee bay at Khao Lak, Thailand


It was interesting to contrast living in this secluded tranquil environment for a few days compared with the usual routines of finding accommodation, food and negotiating traffic that is our daily work environment. We both enjoyed it immensely, but when we loaded up the bikes and opened up the throttle, it was great to be back on the road again, transmission restored.

– Anthony

The King’s Birthday

Today, the fifth of December is the King of Thailand’s 87th birthday. The Thai national flag and the yellow kings flag festoon the country, on buildings, along roads everywhere you go you see yellow. Yellow tee shirts, tops, dresses and jackets. The Thai people revere their King and look to show it on this day, a public holiday in Thailand. We are heading south from Ayutthaya, looking to bypass Bangkok and head down the coast towards Phuket some 920km away over the next few days.

Yellow t-shirts worn by moped-taxi passengers, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Yellow t-shirts worn by moped-taxi passengers, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Leaving Ayutthaya on the King 's birthday

Leaving Ayutthaya on the King ‘s birthday


Traffic is light as we set off, but on passing Bangkok we join a steady stream of slow moving holiday traffic on the Freeway heading west. As we turn south on highway 4 and are parallel to the coast we both suddenly feel we are getting closer to home. We are on the thin spine of Thailand and for some reason that changes how we perceive our location.

We decide that the coast is where we would like to spend the night, we find a nice Hilton hotel on the beach at Hua Hin and get the last room. How lucky are we! We have not been on a beach for over 18 months and the feel of the sand between one’s toes on the first step brings back to both of us why we like the sea and living in Australia. We both felt energised by the experience and rejuvenated compared with how we normally feel at the end of a day’s riding. Into the warm sea we went to swim and body surf.

At our hotel in Hua hin, for the King's birthday, Thailand

At our hotel in Hua hin, for the King’s birthday, Thailand


After a short walk around what is a very touristy town, we are back to the hotel entrance where a big TV screen has been set up and locals and tourists alike watch the Prime Minister light the first candle for the king’s birthday. We have candles too and they are lit, songs are sung and it is great to be part of another experience that we had not planned for or expected.
A sea of yellow everywhere today for the  King's birthday, Thailand

A sea of yellow everywhere today for the King’s birthday, Thailand

The whole of Thailand is meant to light their candle at the same time for the King's birthday

The whole of Thailand is meant to light their candle at the same time for the King’s birthday


May the King of Thailand have many more such birthdays. “Long live the King”

– Anthony