Stunning scenery from Quito to Pasto

Although Karen and Jos have very kindly invited to stay with them as long as we like, we feel we should move on. It is not that we want to leave Ecuador in a hurry, but spending more time in Quito which is huge has no appeal and we need to give ourselves a buffer if time to sort out how we will get out of Colombia (the ferry service to Panama having been terminated this week).  Before we leave, Jos and Karen, who have lived 18 years in Colombia before moving to Ecuador, give us some safety tips on security in Colombia which we will be sure to follow:  we should not stop between Pasto and Cali and definitely not ride there at night.

Ready to leave Jos and Karen's in Quito

Ready to leave Jos and Karen’s in Quito

What a ride out of Quito!!! How they managed to construct so many buildings and suburbs in this landscape, clinging to sheer cliffs, is incredible. You have to stay alert while driving around Quito as there are so many ramps and overpasses that go in opposite directions to where you are aiming, to get around cliffs or creeks and rivers. A bit of a maze. Luckily getting out of the city from Karen and Jos is a breeze and we are out into the beautiful countryside in no time.

Entrepreneur in Ecuador

Entrepreneur in Ecuador

Entrepreneur in Ecuador

Entrepreneur in Ecuador

On the equator in Ecuador

On the equator in Ecuador

We ride up and up again, up to 3,600 metres before going down again. Glorious roads and countryside.

Cayambe, Ecuador

Cayambe, Ecuador

Heading to Otavalo, Ecuador

Heading to Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo is renowned for one of its markets where people are dressed in traditional costumes and selling various clothes, shawls, ponchos, jewellery, most goods we are told resembling Peruvian goods – sounded way too touristy for us so Jos and Karen mentioned a route that took us near a lake on the outskirts of Otavalo and into tiny villages. We stop at a food market there and enjoy a quiet stroll and chat with an old lady. We chat, not quite understanding each other so hold hands and everything is clear. This is the side of travel we love. We started riding up towards a nature reserve, but after 3kms of pebbles up a narrow windy road, we turned back when it started raining, still going for the safe option as you see…

Pivarinshe, Ecuador

Pivarinshe, Ecuador

Pivarinshe, Ecuador

Pivarinshe, Ecuador

Outside Otavalo, Ecuador

Outside Otavalo, Ecuador

While Anthony rests at the hotel, I enjoy walking around the local market, watching a lady sewing, sitting in the main square watching people. Eventually, I make my way to the touristy market as many are packing up. What was interesting to see was that ladies there wear their traditional clothes everywhere. It is not just for tourists at the touristy market.

Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo, Ecuador

Inca warrior Rumiñawi, Otavalo, Ecuador

Inca warrior Rumiñawi, Otavalo, Ecuador

Local market in Otavalo, Ecuador

Local market in Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo lady

Otavalo lady

Traditional blouses in Otavalo, Ecuador

Traditional blouses in Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo, Ecuador

One of several music stores in Otavalo, Ecuador

One of several music stores in Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo, Ecuador

Ice cream seller in Otavalo, Ecuador

Ice cream seller in Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo, Ecuador

 

Lovely market seller in Otavalo, Ecuador

Lovely market seller in Otavalo, Ecuador

We get ready to leave Otavalo early as we will be crossing the border into Colombia today and want to make it to Pasto well before dark, and we have 227kms to cover plus an unknown amount of time at the border. We meet up with the hotel owner again as we are packing the bikes: did we find the stickers at the place he mentioned to us last night? No luck. So he decides to go off to the store himself and look for us. He has no luck either but how lovely of him!!

We enjoy our ride up to the border:

Ibarra, Ecuador

Ibarra, Ecuador

Flower greenhouses in Ecuador

Flower greenhouses in Ecuador

Bolivar county, Ecuador

Bolivar county, Ecuador

Tulcan, Ecuador

Tulcan, Ecuador

Tulcan, Ecuador

Tulcan, Ecuador

We arrive at the Rumichaca border at 10.30. The immigration processing office is so full that a security guard holds people back from entering. It takes us 2 hours to get the immigration exit stamp. Before going onto the Colombian border, we have a quick snack sitting on the side of the road – a can of salmon and dry biscuits – our favorite staple traveling diet. On we drive to the Colombian side which is very close, and up we walk to the immigration office which takes a couple of minutes and then onto the customs office. A gentleman in a crisp black suit greets us as we’re walking up to the office, and tells us in English that the office is closed but he’ll get someone to see us anyway. Very nice. They unlock the door and in we go. Unfortunately, the lady there is leaving her shift and her colleague who should be processing us is nowhere to be found. Just go and have lunch and come back she says. As we’ve had lunch, we decide it is best to ‘save’ our place in the queue, ie sitting at the desk waiting for someone to come back from lunch. We use that time for one of us to get the required photocopy of our passports with our immigration stamp (luckily, for once Kristjan had gone through the border before us, so we knew the process) and get our road insurance. An hour later, a customs guy arrives. It takes another hour for him to enter all the vehicule information into his computer, while about 20 people still wait outside the locked office. What delayed us a little more was the requirement to take a carbon rubbing of our chassis number – not easy when it is printed on a label, not engraved but they got enough and we were finally stamped into Colombia 4 hours after arriving at the border.

Our first priority is to drive into Ipiales to get our SOAT road insurance as the border office computer was down!! You can buy your SOAT at at supermarket but where is that supermarket? Once in the centre, I suggest that Anthony stays with bikes while I hop into a taxi there and back. I take a quick photo of where we are so I can find my way back!!

Parque San Felipe, Ipiales, Colombia

Parque San Felipe, Ipiales, Colombia

Finally, we are off. We are in Colombia!! Wow, I have butterflies of excitement.

Our road insurance complete, we finally head out of Ipiales and start our journey towards Pasto. The scenery is so gorgeous, once again, every new bend surprising us even more. As a bike rider, the road is paradise. Gentle bends, perfectly cambered road, vistas as far as the eye can see of beautifully green rolling hills, then suddenly cliffs and deep green gorges. Here is how the scenery changed within 15′ (luckily my Lumix camera records the time as I would never remember such details):

North of Ipiales, Colombia

North of Ipiales, Colombia

North of Ipiales, Colombia

North of Ipiales, Colombia

North of Ipiales, Colombia

North of Ipiales, Colombia

North of Ipiales, Colombia

North of Ipiales, Colombia

We get to our hotel in Pasto around 5pm – Hotel Frances La Maison which Anthony spotted online. It is owned by a Frenchman, Patrice, who has been living in Colombia for 20 years. It is good to speak French!! We have dinner at a little pizza place 5′ walk down the road: I can say it was the best pizza I have ever had and the owner of Alina was such a wonderful and gentle guy. Colombia has a great feel so far and we are enjoying being here.

– Anne

Up to Quito

Ecuador has been our first country visited for the first time since Laos, back in November 2014. As Anne talked about in the previous blog entry, a pleasure to ride in. We have no specific plans but are heading to Quito via Riobamba to take up Jos and Karen’s kind offer to stay with them. One advantage of the route up the middle of the country is the absence of Malaria at the altitudes we will encounter.

As we have travelled up the west coast of South America, we have been blessed with nice dry weather. We have managed to avoid almost all of the unseasonal downpours that have afflicted some parts of the west coast. The lush environment that has surrounded us since we left Peru and entered Ecuador can only be maintained by regular watering from above. We will need to learn to ride in the rain again!

We did hear some troublesome news from a couple heading south at the Peru – Ecuador border that the new ferry service thhat plies between Cartagena in Columbia and Colon in Panama may be suspended from 23 April 2015. This was reiterated in a recent blog entry we found. Our easy transit to Panama has been terminated and we are back to the drawing board on that one. Nothing we can do, just part of the challenges all travellers can face regardless of their mode of transport.

Our Garmin Montana GPS has faithfully recorded the route travelled since we started in the UK back in June 2014. One of the metrics it records is altitude gained. We are at over 95 kilometres or 58 miles and our journey from Guayaquil to Quito will take us over a 3,800 meter pass so I think that before we leave South America we will break the 100 kilometre barrier in vertical height gained. Update – the Garmin only displays up to 99999 metres, or 100km / 62 miles. So now the display shows _ _ _ _ _ maybe I should have reset it somewhere along the way.

Out of the city amd on our way.

Out of the city amd on our way.

An easy departure being Sunday morning, we quickly cover the first 100 km which are flat, with field after field filled with trees and plants, farm stalls line the highway with tables groaning under the weight of healthy looking produce.

A huge variety of  fresh local produce for sale

A huge variety of fresh local produce for sale

After weeks of desert brown and grey hues, the change is both a pleasant one and confirms in our minds that we like the variety of colours, but prefer green over brown and grey.

Pallatanga, Ecuador

Pallatanga, Ecuador

 

On the way up to 3,800 metres.

On the way up to 3,800 metres.

And now down from 3800m, Colta region, Ecuador

And now down from 3800m, Colta region, Ecuador

Outside Riobamba, Ecuador

Outside Riobamba, Ecuador

We start to climb and climb up through a verdant green landscape, higher and higher ’til we enter the rainclouds at over 3,800 metres. We come out the other side to a landscape of fields carpeting the hillsides regardless of the slope, at altitudes we would normally expect to see scrub and grass covering only. We guess that being so close to the equator creates this environment. This also allows extensive human habitation which we see all the way to Quito.

As this is the end of the rainy season, those pictures of clear blue skies framing white capped volcanic peaks are not available to us, but luckily we are able to see Chimborazo, at 6,268 metres (20,564 ft), Chimborazo is the highest mountain in Ecuador as we depart Riobamba for Quito.

Our lucky glimpse of  Chimboraza

Our lucky glimpse of Chimboraza

We have been invited by a Dutch couple, Jos and Karen, whom we met at our B&B in Chiclayo and again at the Peru-Ecuador border, to stay with them in Quito.

New friends Karen and Jos in Quito

New friends Karen and Jos in Quito

They have been living in Columbia and Ecuador for over 25 years running their own flower consulting business. We had not realised that exporting flowers from this region was such a huge business, but on reflection, it explains the large number of greenhouses we saw along the road on the way to Quito. It is always fascinating to me to hear details of an industry that I know little or nothing about and the challenges and opportunities that industry has.

Jos and Karen were wonderful hosts, especially considering they had been travelling in Peru and Chile for 8 weeks and only just arrived home. They even went to the trouble of cooking a “lomo al trappo” in which the meat is covered in salt, wrapped in a wet cloth and placed on top of the roaring fire that Jos had created, which both cooked the meat and warmed us as we ate outside. Wonderful.

Preparing the fire

Preparing the fire

We spent a day in Quito, which like may of the cities we have visited in South America, has retained the old buildings and churches in the centre of town. The city’s geography makes for some interesting roads and the journey to town by bus and back by taxi allowed us to enjoy the views, unlike when we are riding and our focus is on the road and traffic! The steepness of the streets and the altitude make for slow and steady walking around town.

Quito, Ecuador

Quito, Ecuador

The Catedral Metropolitana Quito has been turned into a museum after the construction of the Basílica Del Sagrado Voto Nacional. What makes this very interesting is the access to the attached administration area of the cathedral. Normally in a functioning cathedral these areas would be occupied and off limits to visitors. We found quite a rabbit warren of interconnecting passages and rooms.

A rooftop view of Quito

A rooftop view of Quito

Quito, Ecuador

Colourful buildings ansd steep streets in Quito, Ecuador

In the Centro Cultural Metropolitano off the Plaza de la Independencia we found an amazing exhibition of art from artists across the Americas, media included ceramics, metalware, cabinet making, pottery material and basket weaving Anne found herself drawn to works from Mexico, which means we will be looking out for the artists’ works when we get to Mexico!

Cultural Centre and university library in Quito, Ecuador

Cultural Centre and university library in Quito, Ecuador

Metropolitan Cultural Centre, Quito, Ecuador

Metropolitan Cultural Centre Exhibiton, Quito, Ecuador

 

We were sad to leave our new friends, but we know we will meet again sometime, hopefully in Australia where we can return the hospitality.

As we have travelled, we have been on a constant lookout for sticky backed plastic flags of the countries we have been passing through to apply to our aluminium top boxes. A simple enough task you would say, well too simple for us. We have failed miserably! We can find fridge magnets, which will not stick to aluminium, sew on patches which would deteriorate too quickly, but no reasonably sized plastic stickers. That old fall back of paper stickers does not work as our Iranian flags are slowly disappearing from our top boxes. We can of course order online a set of flags of the world, but they would all be the same and not really be original. That is our fallback position. In the meantime, we’ll keep looking out for them whenever we visit cities.

Anthony