Meandering across the ‘M’s

Three days in Fargo have left us refreshed and ready to ride again. We have blue skies and a cool breeze at our backs as we head east for New York. Our route will take us across the ‘M’ states Minnesota and Michigan, plus Wisconsin, which is really an upside down ‘M’. We are also adding Metzeler to the list of good ‘M’s. While we were at Sturgis, Metzeler offered us a new set of tyres to replace the ones we have worn down with all our riding since Costa Rica. How generous of them. We will get them fitted in Grand Rapids, Michigan, hence our route over the top of lake Michigan.

Across the state line into Minnesota and a change of scenery. The flat plains and large fields are replaced by rolling hills, trees and lakes. The Minnesota number plates say ‘10,000 lakes’ and after seeing as many as we have, and more on the GPS, that the statement is probably true.

Anne spots a real coffee shop in Park Rapids and as we bask in the sun under the shade of a pine tree, we meet Brian & Kathy, the owners, and spend time chatting. They are small business owners, who own this drive through only coffee shop. Open all year round, must be tough in winter with no tourists and half the local inhabitants fleeing south to warmer climes, but what would our staff do without a job if we closed in winter they say. Lovely people.

Brian and Cathy, owners of Espresso 34 - great coffee!!

Brian and Cathy, owners of Espresso 34 – great coffee!!


We also have our first large animal encounter, a deer, walking out across the road, brakes worked fine, but a timely reminder that we should not ride too late and as we head through state and national forest, we need to keep our eyes open.

Duluth is a city that I recall from my geography at school as a major port on Lake Superior for the transportation of iron ore to the steel mills in places such as Cleveland and Pittsburg. Today iron ore and Wyoming coal account for 80% of exports, with grain making up the bulk of the rest. A major import are nacelles, bases, towers and blades for wind turbines. This is the most inland port in the USA. We get to see a Polish ship arrive to collect grain, and the locally famous Aerial Lift Bridge in action.

William A Irwin, a bulk iron ore carrier museum.

William A Irwin, a bulk iron ore carrier museum.


Water towers in Duluth, MN

Water towers in Duluth, MN


Isadora ship is through, lift bridge goes down again to let road traffic across

Isadora ship is through, lift bridge goes down again to let road traffic across

The size of the port becomes apparent as the Polish ship disappears from view and we see it later looking quite small next to an enormous grain elevator complex, one of many that dot the harbour basin. We are quickly out of town and heading for Wisconsin and Michigan.

Isadora is ready to be loaded up with grain

Isadora is ready to be loaded up with grain


The nature of the landscape, in my view, lends itself to holidays by lakesides. We see RV’s with boats, ATVs, jet-skis and a local boat variant called a pontoon boat. The latter is designed for leisurely trips around the myriad of small lakes that exist, some interconnected allowing quite extensive travel. People seem to holiday locally, many we meet are from a few hours away or the next state. A great environment for holidays with kids.
Great spot to stop and refresh

Great spot to stop and refresh

While we are protected by trees for the most part our journey along the northern shore of lake Michigan and then over the Mackinac Bridge, one can see how windy it could be for us, but I am glad we are travelling now with bearable winds – we heard of one RV being flipped over by the wind the other day.

Crossing Mackinac bridge

Crossing Mackinac bridge


Chicago is a long way away, on the far side of Michigan lake

Chicago is a long way away, on the far side of Michigan lake


We keep meeting people interested in our journey. At the campsites, hotel car parks and food stops, we get their enthusiasm in our journey. It is quite infectious and a reminder to us of where we have been and what we have achieved in 14 months. It is hard for us to imagine that this way of life is coming to an end in a few weeks. We are so used to having another country ahead to cross, places to visit, people to see. Now we look at our calendar and see flights and family reunions, which we are looking forward to, but how will we miss this nomadic life on the road? Time will tell.
Luke, Jamie, Jaime and Alia

Luke, Jamie, Jaime and Alia


We visit BMW Motorcycles of Grand Rapids. Two new fresh sets of Metzeler Tourances await Streak and Storm. They are fitted and we are able to use their cleaning bay, equipped with all the best cleaning tools and products to change Streak and Storm to their purchased grey colours from the dirt, mud and oil spattered bikes they had become. It will hopefully reduce the number of wasps that seem to show interest the bikes each time we stop, probably because of all the dead insects that formed a film across the front of the bikes protecting the chrome and paint from the elements. We had great help from Gary in cleaning the bikes.
Storm being washed for the first time since Costa Rica!!

Storm being washed for the first time since Costa Rica!!


The 3 miles from our hotel to BMW Motorcycles of Grand Rapids took us past 30,000 miles for the trip. Another milestone, no pun intended, and Anne has updated the route map in our blog to reflect this and our recent wanderings in Colorado and Wyoming.

In Australia I was only able to get six months’ supply of heart medication before coming away. A law that exists to stop people stockpiling I guess? Suddenly we have been gone for six months and I need some refills. We find an urgent care clinic who are very helpful and fill my prescriptions. They do not even charge for the service on the spot, just say they will invoice me at my home address.

Across the road to the Walgreens pharmacy the prescriptions were sent. They are electronically transferred. I take Crestor for cholesterol which in Australia with the Pharmaceutical Benefits Scheme costs me about US$25 for one month. Here the bill is US$265 for one month. Eeeeek!, Just one month please, I will get more in Europe thanks. We forget what is subsided back home. Must be tough for those without medical insurance here when you need such tablets.

Off to Amish Country tomorrow and then a leisurely ride eastwards.

– Anthony

Sturgis – a first visit

Sturgis, a name that many motorcyclists will recognise, the home of the largest motorcycle event in the world, the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, held annually for the last 74 years, with 2015 seeing the 75th year of the event. The event, which is expected to draw up to a million visitors this year, is not our usual UNESCO site to visit, but being so close and probably not riding back for the 100th anniversary, we will take the chance to get bragging rights by attending, and securing event paraphernalia While the event does not start until next week, we wanted to get the lie of the land beforehand, hence a quick trip to our chosen camping/event site. Can someone confirm Sturgis is a UNESCO site?

We travel from our Black Hills campsite, in which we sat through a one hour hail storm last night, towards Deadwood.

A little hailstone from around our tent.

A little hailstone from around our tent.

Deadwood is a famous town from the cowboy era, which today features a main street with one side dedicated to motorcycle parking only. Probably 150 years ago horses would have lined the street in the same place as motorcycles stand today. Historic buildings have been retained and now welcome tourists and gamblers. Yes, casinos have been established to take your money, replacing the card sharps and gunslingers of old.

Main Street, Deadwood with motorcycle parking

Main Street, Deadwood with motorcycle parking


Mustang Sally, a great western name

Mustang Sally, a great western name


On from historic Deadwood to Sturgis. The town appears to be a hive of activity with setup work being undertaken. Merchandise tents and stands being erected, semi trailers full of with every conceivable motorcycle accessory plus all those mandatory Sturgis teeshirts being unloaded are the activities we see as we move from one tedious stop sign to the next. It is difficult to traverse the town’s main street under normal circumstances, what will it be like in a week’s time? Impossible I think! A small crowd of motorcyclists wandering the streets, looking to make purchases from the vendors. A good time to buy without the crowds, but there is nothing we really want.
Main street in Sturgis without the crowds

Main street in Sturgis without the crowds

We finally get through town and head for our campsite which is where the major bands are also playing. It is called Buffalo Chip and has become famous for great parties over the years. The place is almost empty, final preparations are underway. Looks like the calm before the storm. I am sure it will be so different next week. We get our wristbands for Monday and Tuesday night and learn that camping is first come first served and some people started camping a week ago to get good spots! Hundreds of thousands of people are not our thing and we are already starting to chicken out by thinking only one night at Buffalo Chip, due to the time it will take us to get to Yellowstone and back.

Buffalo Chip bar, customers to come next week

Buffalo Chip bar, customers to come next week


Field of Flags at the Buffalo Chip campground to honour those who serve in the military

Field of Flags at the Buffalo Chip campground to honour those who serve in the military

Veterans are important here at the Buffalo Chip campground

Veterans are important here at the Buffalo Chip campground


This region is known for strong winds and we head west we battle strong gusty winds in the late afternoon. A reminder that we need to start riding early to avoid the physical strain that this type of riding brings. We are heading for Thermopolis, a small town in central Wyoming that is based around hot springs, hence the name from the Greek for ‘Hot City’. First we pass through the Wind River Canyon, this is a spectacular route, with the river sparkling in the sun as we ride.

Wind river canyon, a great ride.

Wind river canyon, a great ride.


The hot springs at Thermopolis were part of an Indian reservation which was sold to the US Government with the proviso that the hot springs should be available to all people for free. This has resulted in a spa that is open to all for free, well, for 20 minutes at a time. We tried it and 20 minutes is more than enough! We enjoy a stroll through the park, seeing the hot springs running into the river – must be nice to have that warmth in winter.

80 years of hot springs activity created this

80 years of hot springs activity created this

Thermopolis hot springs lake

Thermopolis hot springs lake


Wyoming is a big state and we enter our third day crossing it at our pace. We are heading for the Grand Tetons, somewhere we have not been since 1985, wow how time flies! First we have yet another pass to cross, the Togwotee Pass on US287 with an elevation of 9,658 ft (2,944 m) over. Over the top and we see the Grand Tetons for the first time in 30 years. We have a picture at home taken from our tent when last camped here and this view had recalls wonderful memories from the past. We pass Jackson, a well known ski town, as we head for Idaho Falls which is a far west as we will travel in the USA.

Grand Tetons, our first view in 30 years.

Grand Tetons, our first view in 30 years.

Where we camped 30 years ago

Where we camped 30 years ago


– Anthony

Taos and onward to Colorado

Anne’s bike is purring as we leave Santa Fe heading north at lunchtime. What a change from last week. We are “back on the road again” as Anne likes to sing often as we leave in the morning. The open road beckons and we are back on highway US 285 heading for Taos. We want to make good time as the afternoon thunderclouds are starting to build. This is a normal occurrence here, but it’s better to avoid the storms if we can.

Mountain storms developing towards Taos

Mountain storms developing towards Taos

Not the usual boring concrete

Not the usual boring concrete

We make good progress until, yes you guessed it, Streak starts to play up again. The intermittent loss of power creates a real problem as we limp towards Taos. The issue seems the same as the one we had before. What a bummer. We push on slowly to Taos and arrive before the rain. We will see what tomorrow brings.

Something new every day, cornering must be fun

Something new every day, cornering must be fun

Since we had no problem with Streak for the first 35 miles or so, and it started to occur after Streak stood in the hot sun for an hour, we will see what a cool morning brings, plus as we head further north to higher altitudes, hopefully the temperatures will drop. Dinner is obtained from a Walmart store across the road and we feast on carrots, humous and low fat biscuits. A change from some of the high calorie meals we have been eating.

We start the next day with some trepidation, will Streak perform and for how long? We take it easy as we head north, the spectacular landscape unfolds before us, we have always enjoyed this part of the USA and it is great to be back in summer. We have decided that will take the back roads to avoid the high speeds of traffic on the interstate highway if we have to limp along. Some backroads! Great two and four lane lane roads take us northwards. All good so far plus the temperatures seem lower today.

Early morning storms developing

Early morning storms developing

Open vista in Southern Colorado

Open vista in Southern Colorado


The air seems so fresh and clean, the smell of the pines is wonderful and when the thunderstorms start to develop that scent that heralds their arrival fills the air. We like the smell of the ocean and the smells of the mountains. It would be a hard call to choose a favourite.

We stop at Fort Garland, one of a series of military forts established in the late 1850’s to protect miners and settlers in the San Luis valley. The fort was only in use from 1858 to 1883 after which the westward movement of people and the removal of the indians made the fort redundant. It is interesting to see one aspect how the west of the USA was developed over only 25 years.

Fort Garland parade ground

Fort Garland parade ground


Fort Garland barracks block

Fort Garland barracks block


As we swing west smelling the clean air, snow cooled by the still covered peaks even though we are progressing through summer, we enjoy the wide open spaces with mountains, what a great place to ride.
Storms gather as we ride towards Salida, Colorado

Storms gather as we ride towards Salida, Colorado


We have always tried to support local businesses back home and while we use the larger chains such as Hilton for accommodation when it makes sense as we get benefits due to our Diamond status, elsewhere we look local. We find that the staff at local cafes and hotels seem to go that little bit further, maybe because they have the flexibility and individuality that the larger chains do not have or foster. In Salida we found both a great motel and breakfast cafe that we really enjoyed the service of and would recommend to others.
Our motel in Salida

Our motel in Salida


Legal in Colorado, but not good for riding

Legal in Colorado, but not good for riding

Mt Priceton and the Arkansas river in Salida, Colorado

Mt Priceton and the Arkansas river in Salida, Colorado


East 1st Street in Downtown Salida, Colorado

East 1st Street in Downtown Salida, Colorado


Deer in suburban Salida

Deer in suburban Salida


Colourful house, Salida Colorado

Colourful house, Salida Colorado


Our route from Salida northwards on US285 then onto US24. High plateau country surrounded by snow-capped peaks soaring to over 14,000 feet, twice our hight on the plateau. We are looking forward to returning to this country after visiting Denver.
On the road central Colorado

On the road central Colorado


What a great name for an Inn

What a great name for an Inn

Motorcycle memorabilia Thunderbird Inn, Florissant Colorado

Motorcycle memorabilia Thunderbird Inn, Florissant Colorado

Just a local shower to cool us off

Just a local shower to cool us off


Manitou Springs is a small historic touristy town just outside Colorado Springs. We spend a relaxing evening walking the town and enjoying the local brewery’s food and ales. Our ride out to Denver will take us via the ‘Garden of the Gods’. The name came in 1859 after one Colorado City surveyor thought this would be a good location for a beer garden, before his colleague suggested that this could be a ‘Garden for the Gods’ and the name stuck.

Garden of the Gods Park, Colorado

Garden of the Gods Park, Colorado


Garden of the Gods Park, Colorado

Garden of the Gods Park, Colorado

One year on the road today, what a milestone. It would have seemed unlikely when we set off from Verwood in June 2014 feeling like frauds on shiny new motorcycles. ‘Riding round the world’ really! I think some of those other riders on the cross Chunnel train would have thought so. But here we are a year later after so many adventures and having met many wonderful people, we are very lucky.

Streak & Storm on our 1st anniversary - at Garden of the Gods Park, Colorado

Streak & Storm on our 1st anniversary – at Garden of the Gods Park, Colorado

We arrive at BMW of Denver in Aurora and Streak and Storm are handed over for their 24,000 mile service and hopefully the diagnosis and solution to Streak’s throttle lag (the spluttering and dying not having occurred again for the last two days). Time will tell… Now for a relaxing weekend with our friends Mike and Karen.

– Anthony