Jan 10 2015

Our Guardian Angels’ Well Deserved Rest

Christmas eve, the morning we left Kuala Lumpur and dropped all our panniers and bags off to BMW, we finally found out what was wrong with Streak. The engine management system no less – think of it as the heart and brains of the bike. Pretty major. The part has to be ordered from BMW in Germany and calibrated for Streak. With Christmas and new year holidays, the factory is closed for the next couple of weeks. As the part would then take another couple of weeks to arrive, we decide we need to tackle the problem from South America or our trip will be delayed too much to get back to Europe in time to claim half our Carnet de Passage cost back (with two bikes, this equates to the cost of one bike, so not insignificant).

It felt very strange walking away from Streak and Storm for over a month, like leaving our babies behind. It also felt very odd walking with our jackets on (we had to bring them back to give them a good wash in a washing machine) but with sandals rather than boots – very odd, your brain keeps telling you it’s unsafe and you should be wearing boots (not what are you doing wearing a heavy jacket?!!).

Leaving Streak and Storm behind brings to an end the first half of our Round The World trip. Wow!! Who would have thought?! The 2SlowSpeeds, cautious and relatively inexperienced riders, have ridden 21,500kms and made it unscathed to KL. If nothing else, we have shown any one can do this if they want to. We had no great skill, just the desire to do it and love of travel and each other.

Now no more riding, unpacking, packing, hand washing and looking for somewhere comfortable to sleep for a while. And we will be seeing friends again. The butterflies of excitement are showing up… But so many thoughts and questions are swerling in our heads! How will it feel like being home? Will it feel like home? We’ve only been gone 15 months, but have our friendships survived unchanged or how will they have changed? We have so many things to organise, will 4 weeks be long enough?

Arriving back in Australia in Sydney on Boxing Day confirmed for us that Australia is home.

Yes, we are resident in Manly Queensland again, the gates swing open, up the driveway and we are at our front door. Fifteen months on the road and we open up to a familiar but unfamiliar world. Glen and Robyn, who have very kindly looked after our interests while we have been on the road, collected us from the airport and took us back along familiar roads to our home of 16 years.

While it feels comfortable to be home, we have felt like we were in a hotel, all the drawers and cupboards being empty, nothing anywhere as we had packed all our personal possessions before we rented the place out in 2013. A legion of boxes we had packed in September 2013 confront us downstairs and we have no idea where anything is! We are still living mostly with our hand luggage and a few items discovered by accident. As we are only here for four weeks, we plan to unpack as little as possible, assuming we can find it in the first place!

Getting home in the middle of a RTW trip is slightly strange, normally home is the start/finish point, not the middle of the journey and if we had undertaken a normal RTW we would be relaxing with the journey over. Here, we are focused on shipping the bikes, spares ordering, planning and catching up with all our friends in the four weeks we are here. We found getting to grips with over a year’s mail was made less daunting by Robyn’s diligent sorting and prioritising each month. Even though we had tried to move all the snail mail to email, there are many organisations that have only changed over since we have been away.

As we travel around Brisbane with the roof down on the MX-5, it is interesting to see the interplay of our memories and our visual senses as brains are furiously matching the two images. From time to time we know that there is a mismatch but have to think hard to identify what the difference is. A house has been raised, a tree chopped down, a new appartment block built. It’s an interesting process to go through.

Our to do list over the next 4 weeks kept growing the first week we got back but is under control:

double GP appointment each, blood tests, eye tests, order new glasses, book cardiologist for stress-test, buy new medication for next 6 months, buy new fridge (old 17 year old one died when we got home), organise air conditioning repair (also died shortly before we returned), organise mammogram, organise mobile and internet credit, organise new vehicule insurance, organise new travel insurance, liaise with shipping agent in Singapore about various options to ship or airfreight our bikes, complete insurance claim paperwork for various losses and medical expenses we incurred over the past 12 months, renew post office box, follow up with several organisations to get all bills online, buy new spares for Streak and Storm like new oil filters, wash and re-waterproof our jackets, look for new boots, look for new gloves, and of course try to see most of our friends at least once.

A couple of days after getting home, we found out that a developer has been working very quietly and very hard at getting approval for a 5 storey block of 95 appartments and shops across the road from us. We found out that the cost of clearing port charges in Buenos Aires comes to AU$5000. All a bit much to take in. We feel drained. So many things to work out. Should we look at selling now? Should we look at shipping elsewhere or backtrack – backtracking is the least favoured option and only comes in as long as needing to be considered as an option and immediately dismissed. Should we just fly back to Europe in July/August? That question needed to be asked, considered for … 2 seconds, and dismissed. Still, so many questions and things to be considered and actioned.

We are glad we had a blog and many friends followed us so we didn’t have to go through the whole trip over and over again, but interestingly, a few questions have come up several times, such as:

What was your favourite place? We don’t have a single favourite place, but many places we would love to return to, mainly to see friends we made there again. We both loved Iran, Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. When we think of these countries, we think of the special moments we spent with so many wonderful people. See photos below. We will cherish these photos even more as the box we shipped back from Dubai was raided by thieves somewhere and we lost brochures, receipts, maps, a dead iPad and most sadly of all presents from our friends in Uzbekistan.

Did you have any problems? No, not really. A few tough riding days, only one puncture, a smashed brake fluid container, a throttle problem on Anne’s bike, that’s it.

Did you ever have any problems with the police? No, never. We were fined twice but justifiably.

Were you ever in any danger? Never. Except from crazy drivers.

Did you take anything to defend yourself? Common sense and luck, that’s all. And thankfully, our Guardian Angels.

How does it feel like being home? As mentioned above, it is good to be home but it doesn’t quite feel like home. Most friends were away when we arrived and were unaware we had our mobiles reconnected within a couple of days. So many to call, so many to organise to see but so many things to organise that the social calendar has had to take a bit of a back seat. All in all, it feels like being in any city we’re travelling through, but not home although sleeping in our own bed is wonderful and having a washing machine pure luxury!

Do you think you will be able to settle down? We think so, we can’t imagine ourselves always being on the move like some travellers we’ve met or read about. We have many plans for when we get home!

Do you think you will you want to keep travelling? We won’t want to stay on the road, but travelling will always be something we enjoy doing. In future, we would rather go to a single place and stay longer, to get a good feel for the place and have time to enjoy and explore it more fully.

How far and how many hours did you travel every day? On average 7 hours including 2 hours’ rest spread over the day. We tried to have 3 riding days, then stop for 2 or 3 nights in one place.

Did you miss anything? Friends and family – especially the general chit chat you have with friends. Anne missed her perfume!! And a washing machine.

Did you get tired of wearing the same things every day? No, although Anne enjoyed buying new trousers and top as a change.

How often did you camp? Not often enough, just 6 times. But we are looking forward to lots lots more in the Americas.

Will you write a book? Yes, when we get back.

Are you enjoying being home? Oh yes, most definitely :-). Seeing friends again has been absolutely wonderful – we’re doing our best to see as many as we can before we head off to South America.

– Anne & Anthony

Cirik , who gave us an unforgettable experience of wonderful Kazakh hospitality

Our Uzbek friends after our amazing lunch stop in Uchqorghan – Abduvohid on my right and Mohamid on my left

A memorable evening in Samarkand: Gulnoza and baby Omar behind Anthony and Aziza’s kids Muqhbar and Raziza on either side of Anne, and Aziza’s niece Sabina behind Anne

Jamkhur just gave Anthony this superb gift – after another wonderful evening and delicious dinner of home made saussage rolls (the absolute best ever), home made fruit juice, delicious plov (a type of Uzbek pilaf), home made fortified wine, vodka, homegrown fruit, home home made fruit juice bread.

After I asked whether I could take a photo of her skating, she offered me one of her head bands – too sweet. In Toshkent, Uzbekistan

Ruxshona, 20 year old with 2 year old child, Azida, 22, married doctor and Dilnoza, 22, engaged with whom we chatted for an hour on life, mixed marriage, education and travel

Our campsite at the friendly road construction site near the Dervaza crater, Turkmenistan

The lovely twisty road towards our campsite for our first night in Iran, near Dor Badam, Iran

She wanted a photo of me with my bike, I said she could sit on my bike, she shouted ‘I love you’ and we embraced. Look at her husband in the mirror!

Afrooz and Anthony enjoying their ice cream – I love the guy behind them!!!

At Afrooz’s brother Babak and his wife Reihaneh for dinner, Beshahr

Sohrab helping us with our bike maintenance outside Tehran

With Saba at the Green Palace, Saadabad Palaces, Darband – Tehran, Iran

Fariba, her brother and sisters took us out for dinner in Tehran

With Zoreh, Isfahan, Iran

Zoreh’s sister and husband in the front, with their kids Sarah and Mohammad with his wife Shadi, who all showed us around Esfahan

Reza with a friend, Banda Abbas, Iran

Lovely Anastasia in Sharjah

Mostafa from our hotel very kindly took us out to dinner with his daughter Aya

Ahmed in the centre and some of his staff

Kristjan and Happy Delhi Days

Rohan and Raj helped Anne find what we needed to fix her bike, Varanasi

Ukay, Smita, Dharmendra and uncle who escorted us into Ballia and invited us into their home

Aditya and his friends Imtiya and Anwar who helped us find our hotel in Forbesganj

We are about to leave Imphal for Myanmar

Anthony crossing the wooden log bridge under the creek bed on day 2 with those ahead waiting to help us

Anthony has been promoted by the red team and given lighting candle and lighter at the Taunggyi fire balloon festival, Myanmar

Anthony’s 60th birthday

Nung, the brilliant mechanic, loves selfies!

Atsuko and Micheal, Chiang Mai

Sunny from Sunny Cycle took us out for lunch at an old Chinese restaurant, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Angelene from BMW KL brought green tea in just for us

End of this leg of our trip, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and feeling good!

Dec 25 2014

Video

Merry Christmas & Bonne Année!!

Dec 23 2014

Kuala Lumpur – Pack and Plan

As I look out over the the rain swept city of Kuala Lumpur from our eyrie in the executive lounge on the 21st floor of the Hilton Petaling Jaya, I can look back and recall all we have seen and done in the last six months travelling through 20 countries, numerous time zones and over 21,500 km. At the start of this journey in June, Christmas 2014 seemed to be a distant place in time and space. Wind forward six months and we only have a couple of days left before we board our flight to Sydney. We have seen so much, learnt a little, and met amazing people, yet our path is but a thin line across half the world. How many more wonderful experiences exist, just outside our field of view and touch that others can and have explored. We could have spent extra time in the places we visited, let alone all the ones we did not reach. Maybe some of our followers will tread that path someday in the future and share with us the wondrous experiences and feelings that they have.

Winding back a few days, after the pleasure of George Town’s art and deco, we had a somewhat wet ride from George Town in Penang to Kuala Lumpur. Considering that we have now had six days of rain in six months travelling, we have no complaints there, but it does remind me that I need to replace the scratched and brown tinged visor that used to be crystal clear, as the rain on top of six months wear and tear downgrades my vision considerably. We realised fairly early on that the usage we put all our clothing and equipment to since we started equals years of use by an average rider. Maybe we can take the equipment back to the manufacturer after 12 months of field testing and see if they will swap them to benefit from our testing program? Anne’s gloves being a good example as they leave Anne’s hands dark blue every time they get wet.

More rain all the way to Kuala Lumpur today

Such horrific quarrying – earth seemed to scream in pain, Malaysia

Our arrival in Kuala Lumpur was less than auspicious, we were refused permission to unload our panniers at the entrance of the Hilton Petaling Jaya and directed two levels down a wet and slippery spiral entrance to a sub basement for motorcycles. Our way into the hotel was via the staff only entry. In all our travels on this trip, we have not been treated as badly at a hotel. A quick firm chat with the duty manager explaining our view of the treatment had two members of staff come to the sub basement, but they need a taxi to get all our panniers and bags back up to the entrance!

First order of business was to get the bikes to BMW for the next service and for them to look for a resolution to Anne’s throttle lag under hard acceleration. We need to resolve this here as it has been and continues to be a risk for Anne while riding. Anne is able to manage this by careful planning when overtaking etc, but a permanent solution is needed. We thought this had been fixed in Thailand after a part changeover, but it resurfaced after a couple of days.

While we take the freeway to BMW, alongside and separate is a motorbike pathway, which when traffic is snarled up, seems to nip a long at a fast pace, but the lack of road signs means we stick to the freeway. All the major motor manufacturers are represented, Mercedes, Honda, Citroen, Mazda etc, a reminder we are back in the developed world. After dropping off the motorbikes, we head to Sunny Cycle, a motorcycle repair shop and showroom that Anne read about on the Horizons Unlimited forum. We are greeted by a busy workshop and well stocked showroom. Anne finds a pair of waterproof trousers to replace the bike jeans and I discover the first place to buy replacement oil for our chain oilers since we left the UK.

We meet Sunny of Sunny Cycles who has been running a motorcycle business for 34 years, which he now shares the workload with his wife, sons and daughters. A real family business. He is a genuine motorcycle and travel enthusiast and wants to hear more about our trip. We ask for a place to eat and the next thing we know we are in a car with Sunny and off to a local Chinese restaurant for an excellent meal and much green tea. Sunny takes a road trip at least every two months up to Thailand and beyond and has 80,000km on his current motorbike. Sunny offers store our motorbikes and baggage for the month before shipment by airfreight. A very generous offer and one that makes our departure from Kuala Lumpur much easier if we are airfreighting.

Sunny from Sunny Cycle took us out for lunch to an old Chinese restaurant, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

On the subject of shipping, our next priority, we have made a number of enquiries for air shipment, but interestingly have found the majority of the various organisations we have contacted either non responsive or difficult to get followup details from after the initial contact or quotation. The exception has been an organisation in Singapore that has responded to our every question. Our current plan is to ship via sea to Buenos Aires at the end of December, we shall confirm over the next couple of days.

Time certainly does fly and we are now packing up everything for the second phase of this journey which is planned to start at the end of January 2015. With our timing and the barriers to entry for our bikes into Australia, this is as far East as we can go without having to come back to ship the bikes to South America. The choice of the Hilton hotel has allowed the flexibility to spread out across the room as we work out what needs to go forward, brought home or left behind and do lots of hand washing.

Time to freshen up the helmets in Kuala Lumpur

The contents of the Kitchen/Bathroom pannier

Dye still running out of Anne’s gloves

While it might seem to the uninitiated that all we do is work, we did manage to spend some time in Kuala Lumpur seeing the sights. In addition to the obligatory Petronas Towers, Anne wished to see the butterfly house situated in a large park close to the railway station. It was wonderful to see so many, although without the sun they were less active. In addition we found a huge bird aviary which is covered but open air all one one in a valley in the park. Covering some 21 hectares we saw many different birds and even got to feed one.

Butterfly park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Kuala Lumpur bird park, Malaysia

Anthony feeding a Rhinoceros Hornbill, Kuala Lumpur bird park, Malaysia

Rhinoceros Hornbill, Kuala Lumpur bird park, Malaysia

End of this leg of our trip, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Three more sleeps and we will be in Australia.

Anthony

Dec 15 2014

Feasting in George Town

We have not been seeking them out specifically, but once again, we are about to visit another UNESCO heritage listed site. George Town, on the Malaysian island and capital of the state of Penang, has had a very culturally diversified history and in July 2008 UNESCO formally recognised George Town’s unique architecture and cultural townscape by inscribing it as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

George Town went through tremendous transformation from its humble beginning in the late 18th century as the first British Straits settlement, from a swampy frontier town to a bustling trading post. George Town’s architecture reflects the various ethnicities that settled here over 2 centuries – Chinese, Indians, Arabs, Malays, Achehnese, Siamese, Burmese and Europeans each bringing their own building styles such as Indo-Malay palladian, Anglo-Indian and Sino-Anglo bungalows, neo-classical, art deco, and modern, together with mosques, churches, and Chinese and Indian temples.

In an effort to make George Town world heritage zone easily recognisable, as Seville did by planting orange trees along the streets within their world heritage zone, the “Marking George Town” competition was launched by the Penang State Government in 2009. It encouraged innovative ideas in art and design for public spaces in George Town. Out of all the local and international entries, Sculptureatwork triumphed with its design concept of ‘voices from the people’, a series of 52 unique and humorous annecdotal illustrations of George Town’s colourful history in the form of iron rod sculptures, installed against the city’s building walls.

George Town Festival 2012 commissioned “Marking George Town” by Ernest Zacharevic, a young Lithuanian born artist from George Town, a project designed to turn the streets of George Town into an open air art gallery. His murals celebrate the living heritage of the city’s inhabitants.

“101 Lost Kittens” was originally a project by a group of artists working to install a dozen street art at various points within the George Town UNESCO World Heritage Site to raise awareness of the plight of stray animals and became part of George Town Festival 2013.

I have been looking forward to discovering George Town tomorrow, and didn’t expect to stumble across so much street art this evening on our way to dinner, a few minutes down the road from our hotel which is well outside the Unesco zone.

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George atown, Malaysia

Jalan Nagore street art, George Town, Malaysia

Anyone who knows me will be able to imagine my inexhaustible excitement, at each corner and discovery of a new piece of art, turning around, looking back and noticing another one tucked away down a small alley. The artworks themselves are wonderful. But it is the courage and foresight of both UNESCO and George Town council to support and encourage such artworks that warmed my heart. If only others around the world were so bold… I had a constant smile on my face, at seeing each clever and inspiring piece but also watching other people’s enjoyment. I get the same enjoyment observing nature, noticing the smallest detail, which is there for all to see, only if we take the time to stop and admire… Anthony enjoyed the street art too but spent most of his time patiently waiting for me to be ready to walk on, mostly enjoying the sparkle in my eyes he tells me 🙂

Shorn Hair sculpture, George Town, Penang

Cannon Street sculpture, George Town, Penang

Boy on a chair – George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang

Procession sculpture, George Town, Penang

Anne giving this little girl a real fright, George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang (30cm tall)

Huge mural about learning to speak Hokkien, George Town, Penang

Too Narrow sculpture, George Town, Penang

Lion Dance, George Town, Penang

Storyteller sculpture, George Town. Penang

Kids on Bicycle, George Town, Penang

This one made me smile – George Town, Penang

Skippy, George Town, Penang

The Rat was painted after Skipyy – George Town, Penang

Love Me Like Your Fortune Cat – George Town, Penang

I Want Bao! – George Town, Penang

Cats & Humans Happily Living Together – George Town, Penang

Street art, George Town, Penang

Boy on a Motorbike – George Town, Penang

Nasi Kandar sculpture, George Town, Penang

Bullock cart wheel sculpture, George Town, Penang

Little Boy with Pet Dinosaur – George Town, Penang

Gold Teeth sculpture, George Town, Penang

Tok tok Mee sculpture, George Town, Penang

Jimmy Choo sculpture, George Town, Penang

Trishaw Man, Ernest Zacharevic’s last mural, George Town, Penang

We also visited a fantastic little museum. The first part was dedicated to the history of Penang, and the last part to 3D art. Here are a couple of fun examples.

Interactive 3D Museum, George Town, Panang

Not only is the street art so joyous, but we both love talking to the locals, observing all the small businesses still thriving here such as the printmaker who still uses a massive 70 year old printing machine to print receipt books and ledgers for local businesses. I could easily have spent a week in George Town, loving its rich history, cultural diversity and architecture. We will just have to come back one day but for now, Kuala Lumpur is calling us as we need to get the bikes serviced and Streak fixed before our next leg – the new part installed in Chiang Mai didn’t fix my problem and came back the day we left Chiang Mai.

– Anne

Dec 13 2014

Made it to Malaysia

We leave our heavenly beach at Khao Lak by 9am, before it gets too hot and sticky, and make our way for Trang from which, we have been told, we can get to more deserted beaches and lovely coast, bypassing Phuket and Krabi. The journey takes us through stunning scenery, we take little detours to see more of those karst formations the Thai coast is so famous for.

Riding to Trang, Thailand

Pak Meng beach, Thailand

We get to Pak Meng beach and feel like it would be a lovely place to spend the night. It is very low key, lots of tiny restaurants along what looks like a shaded, abandonned, promenade. It is only after we find a place, the Yatale, check in, shower, change and go for a walk, do we find out that this promenade is in fact a tsunami protection wall. It feels eerie. We are the only ones out walking. The council went to the trouble of installing funny arm chair looking benches and sculptures every hundred metres, but for who?…

Pak Meng beach with tsunami wall, Thailand

Crab sand balls, Pak Meng beach, Thailand

Pak Meng beach, Thailand

Our last night in Thailand, Pak Meng beach

We decide to have dinner at our hotel restaurant, our last Thai meal, with a view of the most amazing sunset. The perfect setting for a drink. The choice is not great for a single malt enthusiast, but, with such a setting, it will be perfect with a little ice. Not sure where they thought I was putting the ice!!…

Anne’s first scotch in months, Pak Meng beach, Thailand

Pak Meng beach, Thailand

The next morning, after a last short stroll to admire the stunning rock formations in the sea in the gentle morning light one last time, we leave our hotel, on Pak Meng Beach – thank you Thailand for a wonderful stay – head south towards the Malaysian border. We always love the light in the morning and that feeling of discovering a new place. No, we haven’t tired of this. In fact, it surprises us that, after five and a half months on the road, we still get this feeling of excitement, that sensation of feeling alive as we set off on Streak and Storm.

Pak Meng beach, Thailand

Rubber trees near Trang, Thailand

Palm oil trees – so beautiful yet so lethal

After some beautiful lighting moments along the way, and stopping to see the rubber trees and palm oil trees, it is not long before the rain clouds drop their load – maybe it’s just a passing shower? We can’t be bothered to stop and put our waterproof trousers on. We’ll soon dry out. We’ll soon be out of it. Confidence is … (not so) high but neither wants to admit it!!… Not this time!!! Today turns out to be our 5th day of rain – not bad but it doesn’t make it any nicer. We end up riding at 50kms an hour for a while the rain is so heavy. And it is not long before our boots are sloshing with water.

As usual, we choose a tiny border crossing, in the middle of the Thale Ban National Park (!?), which means taking smaller roads. The route is not obvious, and after a few left, right, left, oops, turn back, left, straight through, we get to the border. The sun is shining for us which is lovely. The border crossing is so fast, under an hour for both countries, which is a record. While we wait for the Malaysian customs officer to complete our carnets for us, we chat and wave to so many people passing through. There is a friendly, relaxed atmosphere. It is interesting to see what people are buying in Thailand to take to Malaysia: food, toys and cleaning brushes. There is a scooter taxi service that takes people back and forth across the border. They have simplified the process between the 2 nations which is refreshing to see: no customs check for those nationals.

The heavens were very kind to us again holding out until we had finished going through some twisties before opening up again. Out of the mountain range and we head for Alor Setar. The road takes us past the largest fields of rice we’ve seen. It feels great to be able to see in the distance again (we have always enjoyed open expanses) and not be surrounded by steep, albeit stunning, jungle clad sheer rocks. The lighting is glorious, a massive storm forming just ahead of us.

Storm near Alor Setar, Malaysia

We haven’t booked anywhere and everywhere we try is fully booked. We eventually find a large, impersonal hotel but it’s clean and not ridiculously expensive so it’s perfect for tonight. After a hot, warming shower, wet clothes hanging all around the room, dinner is down the street at a small streetside restaurant.

Tomorrow, George Town, Penang!!

– Anne

2slowspeeds

Loving life – Turning Dreams into Memories

Our Guardian Angels’ Well Deserved Rest

Merry Christmas & Bonne Année!!

Kuala Lumpur – Pack and Plan

Feasting in George Town

Made it to Malaysia

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