Sámi country

Well that is a hard act to follow – the northern lights performed as if on command for Anne, with a side showing for me. A real privilege to see such beauty dancing across the skies. But on we must…..

The last day of summer today, then 10 months of winter”. We heard those chilling words from a local as we prepared to head further north into Lapland. We have the freedom and flexibly of a hire car for the next week and dual objectives, firstly to learn more about Sámi, the name of the indigenous people of Lapland, culture then secondly see the northern lights again. The second already achieved even though the weather forecasts seemed to rule this out.

Reindeer!! We see our first reindeer beside the road; so exciting. No place to stop so onward we go, more reindeer ahead and a place to pull over. Lots of photos, however the novelty wears off and we are now experienced reindeer viewers and ignore many sightings unless they are perfectly positioned for photos.

Yes they are watching us too.
Impressive reindeer in the wild.
Just like Kangaroos, no road sense.
Young bucks learning to duel as autumn approaches

Our accommodation outside Inari is a beautiful log cabin at the Wilderness Hotel Inari, right on the water’s edge with stunning views over lake Inari. Our own log fire and sauna are included with enough firewood to keep us warm day and night. A clever combined match and fire-lighter make starting easy. A warm fire and a sauna, what a great combination, luckily the wrong season for rolling in the snow.

Our Inari lakeside cabin
The view from our cabin lounge

The rain has held off again and we walked to Inari, the colours of autumn are all around us, further north we travelled we have found more and more silver birch leaves have turned yellow.

SIIDA is the Sámi Museum and Northern Lapland Nature Centre in Inari which has interesting and informative displays on Lapland, plus outdoors there are number of buildings that have been brought to site. They have also recreated a number animal traps showing both ingenuity and engineering skills.

Inside the SIIDA Museum.
Outdoor Sámi display of traditional houses

A tour of the Sámi Parliament was both informative and interesting to see how an indigenous culture interacts with national government. Similar Sámi parliaments exist in Norway and Sweden. Less is known about interactions within Russia. We learned there are five Sámi sub groups and three Sámi languages, Northern Sámi, Skolt Sámi and Inari Sámi. All three languages can be used in the Finnish Sámi Parliament. The full Parliament meets four times a year and provides advice to and negotiates with the Finnish government of affairs that impact the Sámi people.

Inside Sajos, the Sámi Parliament chamber with relief artwork “Eatnu-Eadni-Eana” (Stream-Mother-Ground) by Outi Piesk
Traditional Sámi handicraft of reindeer antler bones, tin wire and bead embroidery

A series of paintings quite cleverly in some cases indicated the dos and don’ts of tourism as it pertains to Sámi culture.

Sustainable tourism vs careless tourism.

AI and dog sledding. Now here is an interesting combination. When I searched Google for “were dog sleds ever used in Lapland”, AI gives me this:

Google AI overview. “Yes, dogs sleds were historically a crucial form of transportation for hunting and travel in Lapland, and remain a popular cultural activity and tourist attraction today. This centuries-old tradition was a primary way for the Sami people, the indigenous inhabitants of the region, and others to navigate the vast, snowy landscapes of the Arctic”

Sadly this is incorrect: we learned during our tour of the Sámi Parliament in Inari that Sámi used reindeer dogs for herding, but not huskies. Reindeer were used to haul loads. Sled dogs, used by eskimos in North America, are a relatively recent introduction boosted by foreign tourism and not always done to the benefit of locals or the dogs. The proliferation of such tourist organisations and descriptive websites using borrowed traditions likely leads to this not unreasonable conclusion by Google AI. How much other information we are presented with by AI could have evolved by similar means? I will try to follow up with Google on this, supposedly there is a way to do this.

The proliferation of these dogs also has the potential to interfere with the reindeer herders’ livelihood we were told.

After Inari we still had three and a half days of car hire left. Where to go? After pouring over maps, comparing options, further north it is – how far, we are dependant on the weather, and yes rain is forecast again.

Once again, we are lucky with the weather and cross into Norway. We have decided to go all the way to Nordkapp or North Cape as we call it. We make good progress, just an initial challenge is the lack a centreline on many Norwegian main roads, just edging dashes causing a few interesting moments as we adjusted to this with oncoming motorhomes or trucks. As we head northwards the trees gradually give way to open landscape and stunning views.

No centre line, but two lanes wide, just.
Great road to sleep on

Nordkapp awaits for us tomorrow.

– Anthony

Tulikettu

A popular Finnish myth tells of a magical arctic firefox (“tulikettu” in Finnish) with a large furry tail that would sweep across the Arctic fells and tundra, creating sparks that lit up the sky or “fire foxes” which the northern lights are known as in Finland.

Underpass mural of the Arctic Firefox

For anyone who has had the priviledge of seeing the Aurora Borealis (or the Aurora Australis in the southern hemisphere), you can imagine that sweeping tail. The aurora seems to be dancing above your head, all around you.

The aurora is best seen at night from autumn to spring but is never guaranteed. You can get a clear night, but the geomagnetic fluctuations (measured by a magnetometer over a 3 hour period and rated as KP index from 0 to 9 with 9 representing the most intense geomagnetic storm) are not sufficient to create the northern lights. The Kp-Index – derived from the German “Planetarische Kennziffer meaning “Planetary Index” – is a measure of geomagnetic activity in the Earth’s atmosphere. Similarly, you could have the perfect conditions, with a high KP index rating but have an overcast night and you won’t get to see the lights.

We are staying in a log cabin on the edge of a lake for 3 nights just outside Inari, really hoping we get to see the northern lights but the weather forecast is not looking good.

Still, fingers crossed…. Inari is pinned on my Aurora app, showing the forecast % cloud cover by the hour and KP index for the next 24 hours. Using that app and AccuWeather to see the actual cloud cover and rain movements, my alarm clock is set for 10pm when the rain clouds are meant to clear, 3am and 4am when a KP index of 5 is forecast!

After an unexpected beautiful clear day, the massive rain front coming up from the south is making its way up to us very fast and suddenly, the sky is completely overcast. Not looking good for a sky show later tonighth. Oh well, time for a sauna then.

View from our cabin, looking north
Looking the other way: the weather from the south is getting to us

The predicted rain arrives on cue, still raining as 10pm approaches. Ever the optimist, I walk outside just after 10pm – the stars are visible!! There are some clouds still. Clouds? No, clouds don’t move so fast and eratically. It is a faint aurora! Anthony has to see this. By the time we are both outside, the aurora colours are clearly visible through the phone even if not strong to the naked eye. And the sky is dancing!

What a show we get.

Our cabin on the left

An hour later, we call it a day and decide to catch some sleep before 3am. The activity is much stronger and the aurora is moving quite fast, making it very difficult to capture on our mobile phones – these blurry photos do not justice to what nature put on for us that night.

See the shooting star?!

By 4am, the sky was overcast but the KP index strong enough to show the strong aurora activity. What would have the sky looked like without that cloud cover!

That was a crazy sky dancing above us

Nature has a way of making you feel insignificant and grateful to be alive to witness such beauty.

– Anne

Back to Finland

With Christmas fast approaching, the opportunity to secure a favourable rating from Santa should not be overlooked. I understand that he lives outside Rovaniemi, located on the Arctic Circle in central Finland and since Anne has always wanted to spend time in the Finnish countryside, what a great chance to combine our two objectives.

With our not inconsiderable amount of baggage in tow, we head to the Heathrow Terminal 4 Hilton hotel, a quick drive to return the car to Hertz and back turns into a saga of epic proportions as an emergency closes Terminal 4 which in turn stops all transport. How will I get back to the Hilton Executive lounge before happy hour closes at 7pm? The answer is I did not but Anne had secured me a large glass of wine in advance. It turns out half the lounge knows of the Terminal 4 closure and my delay and want to hear my story. Not too exciting but I shared a taxi between terminals with a Maltese woman trying to catch a flight home.

Next morning, after a filling breakfast with great service, we realise after the effort of getting four suitcases, two carry on bags and a motorcycle helmet from the room to the lobby that taking the train between terminals is completely impractical. An excellent taxi ride with a local driver, who educated us about in-flight catering as he was previously a General Manager in that industry. Helsinki here we come.

Finnair A350-900 OH-LWD ready to take us to Helsinki.

We have a relaxing evening in the Executive lounge at the Helsinki Airport Hilton, then after an early breakfast, which starts there at 3am which is far to early for us, we board a local train to Helsinki Station

Helsinki Airport snippets from performances by the Finnish National Opera and Ballet’s repertoire

There we wait the IC 23 to take us to Oulu. Here we will transfer to a bus onward to Rovaniemi due to daytime track work. We have chosen seats on the double decker train above the buffet car. Included in our ticket is all you can drink tea, coffee and hot chocolate, yummmmm….

Ready to take passengers to Rovaniemi
Internet connectivity on Finland Trains, very helpful

The suburbs behind us, the landscape changes – patches of Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris), Norway spruce (Picea abies), and Silver Birch (Betula pendula), thanks Wikipedia. The Silver Birch is also Finland’s national tree.

Countryside north of Helsinki

The forests are interspersed with fields covered with golden stubble. The crops are harvested and the hay already safely stored for winter. Blue skies have accompanied us all the way. It is interesting, as a railway buff, that much of the lumber is removed by rail not road. We pass many sidings with railway wagons loaded with logs ready for shipment to distant factories.

Timber loaded and ready to travel south
Upper Premium section with individual swivel chairs

Comfortable seats, food delivered to you, glorious scenery, the only downside is that when you see an interesting track meandering into the distance you cannot stop and explore. Due to daytime track-work the last three hours to Rovaniemi are by bus. We are happy to arrive at our Airbnb and settle in. We stock up at the local supermarket while navigating unfamiliar product names.

A walk down to the waterfront and we find a group of five girls dressed in pink badge covered overalls. Hens night? Birthday Party? No, turns out they are third year art students, hence pink colour, from the local university manning a checkpoint for first year students undertaking an initiation course. We learn that Law students wear burgundy (dark red), grey for accountants perhaps? Just kidding. The overalls were introduced in the 1960’s.

University art students in customary pink overalls

Ever wondered what Rudolf and his friends did for the rest of the year? We can confirm they work as Uber drivers in Rovaniemi in the off season.

Santa’s reindeer hard at work in the off season.

When we arrived in Finland the weather forecast was for rain, rain and more rain where we’re heading. We had resigned ourselves to this, but so far, each morning the forecast changed and we have had mostly sunny days. We take advantage of this and we walk to the Arktikum Science Centre and Museum.

Along the river in Rovaniemi, different Lapland rock explained

Here we get hope to get a better understanding of the region we will be exploring for the next week. Worth the time to give us background on not only the environment but the culture and learn about some of those who made their lives here such as Hildur Larsson whose work and life are exhibited here.

Entrance to the Arktikum Museum
Inside the Arktikum Museum, Rovaniemi
Photographer Hildur Larsson (9/9/1882-3/5/1952)
By Hildur Larsso. Clever use of a steam locomotive in winter
Look up to see where a Polar Bear can reach!

Blue sky again the next day, what luck. While we have been to a number of northern climes before including Alaska, Siberia and Iceland we realise that we have never crossed the Arctic circle. Visiting Santa will mean that we finally cross over to the other side.

Anne inside the Arctic Circle for the first time

Meeting Santa in his home for the first time could be daunting, but Santa quickly puts you at ease. We chatted briefly about Queensland and did check that our nephews and my sister, who had asked, were on the good’ list, “Mostly” said Santa, so those three should have a good Christmas this year.

Time well spent with Santa with Christmas in sight.

It is amazing to think that half a million letters are sent to Santa each year at his official post office that is part of the Finnish Postal Service. The letters wend their way here with many different addresses from countries as diverse as Andorra and Zambia. No post code required for these letters!

Probably the only address that gets all its letters

After lunch we take a walk looking for a husky dog centre, sadly it does not open till November. I think we are between seasons, summer is waining, but winter not established yet. Probably a good time to take a break although there are many motor homes and a few coaches around.

Anne spies a walking track and we are off exploring. Autumn colours and textures abound as we walk through the forrest. A large map shows that tracks for walking and skidoo riding run for tens of kilometres in all directions. Must be amazing in winter just zooming along on the snow. Perhaps a winter visit?

Follow the Yellow Brick Road

Tomorrow we pick up a car and head further north, Reindeer, Polar Bears and Icebergs?, who knows what we will see.

– Anthony

PS. Recently, as many will be aware of, there has been some controversy over the incorporation of mushrooms, especially in dishes like beef wellington. Anne has recently taken an renewed interest in mushrooms. I have found the following photos on her phone, all taken here in Finland.

I also noted the following flavour of crisps for sale in Finland.

Probably not likely to be a big seller in Australia.

Should I have any concerns?

Three days in Oxfordshire

Thursday afternoon Passport Control in rural Oxfordshire? Well sort of: we have just arrived at the Overland Event. Due to my lack of social media exposure, I was not aware of the Overland Event’s existence until Anne suggested attending so have no idea what to expect.

At “Passport Control”, we are swiftly registered, gain multi coloured wrist bands and follow then back on the bikes, follow the signs “Motorcycles only” to a large camping area where a multitude of different coloured tents are being busily erected. With rain forecast, we quickly get our faithful Jack Wolfskin tent up and all our gear stowed inside out of the rain.

Love those monster American coffee cups
Glorious camping weather, when the sun shines.

The Overland Event has been held annually since 2015, except for 2024 to allow the organiser time to take his own trip, a gathering of like minded motorcycle travellers, sharing knowledge and experiences while camping out for three days. Only 500 tickets are made available so the numbers are not overwhelming as can be the case at similar events. Up to three streams of presentations, stands and famous motorcycles on exhibit will keep us fully occupied.

A number of adventure rider luminaries will be here, including Ted Simon, Sam Manicon, Tiffany Coates, Michelle Lamphere and Kinga Tanajewska (from On Her Bike). The first three we have met before at Overland Expo West in Arizona in 2017. Others Anne has been in contact with over the years but never met in person.

As we walk towards the main precinct we note styles of tents range from one man bivouacs to palatial mansion sized tents that require their own sidecar to transport them. While many of the motorcycles were BMW GS’s I only noticed two identical tents.

Trailer for teepee and kitchen

While the hardier amongst us had their own stoves for cooking, various tasty food trucks and variety of on tap beers and ciders were more than enough for me.

The opening welcome was quite a clever icebreaker, people had been asked to send in interesting motorcycling photos and then explain them to the audience in a few minutes. A good variety, great stories involved everything from cranes and winches to dead badgers!

How did the three days go? Friday morning was raining and few stirred early, us included. Coffee and breakfast dragged us from the tent and then off to explore.

Nigel just back from RTW.

I had expected to spend my time in presentations, but kept meeting people, got talking and time just flew by. Nigel who camped next to us had just finished a RTW which had seen him in Kashmir when Pakistan and India squared off recently.

Noel had ridden from India via Iran, but tourist rule changes after the Israeli attacks make the return home to India more problematic. Chloe had problems shipping her small Honda back so dismantled it in her hotel room and packed it into three suitcases. So many great stories and inspirational riders.

Chloe’s suitcase bike partially reassembled for the event.

Saturday morning the sun was out and we were awake early, seems we were giving a presentation! Somehow Anne’s offer to present if they had a cancellation and our recent visit to Algeria gained the organisers’ attention and so we are up at 9:00am. We had only finished the powerpoint slides the night before but were unsure of who our audience would be and how to pitch the presentation. We knew that at least three people we had met the day before would turn up, but were pleased to have a fairly full room. Positive comments afterwards allayed our fears and we hope that some may one day visit Algeria and enjoy the same hospitality that we did.

Fabulous surprise finally meeting Tracy
Charles in person
Sam Manicom and his wife Birgit
Andy who we met en route to the event.
With the legendary Ted Simon
All the presenters, including the 2slowspeeds.

There is a great community spirit at this event, well known presenters can be found making breakfast rolls. People are happy to share their knowledge and experiences with others. We even had a Singaporean couple who had ridden to the event from home taking 15 months and covering 55,000 miles / 80,000 km. Sadly one rider coming from India had his motorbike and all possessions stolen near Nottingham two days previously. The motorcycle community rallied and he immediately got several offers of loan bikes, new gear etc. He was eventually gifted a brand new KTM by The Off Road Centre store. What a fabulous community.

Sunday we packed up and the motorcycling adventures will pause for a little while. I am glad we attended the Overland Event and certainly would again.

– Anthony

Lille for a night

Well the last six weeks have seen little in the way of motorcycle riding. With Storm awaiting repairs, the only riding has been done by Anne. A quick Eurostar to Lille, “moules and frites” with a glass of wine in the “La Grand’Place” square and the following day a swift dash from Lille to Calais to catch a ferry back to the UK. This is about the first time that we have ridden separately.

Lille is where I went to University and Anthony would visit every other week end from London. Funny how sights and smells and music can trigger strong memories. Approaching Lille Flandres main station from the Eurostar brought back those butterflies of arriving with my brother at night to meet Anthony off the train.

Lille Flandres train station

Rue Faidherbe is a surprise with its current interactive art installation, Golden Monoliths. One could identify different fauna sounds, identify flora smells, answer the artist’s questions, look through different periscopes. Fun!

Golden Monoliths
Press here to vote “reinitialise the world”

The centre of Lille has been beautifully renovated and has been turned into a large pedestrian area. Great for walking but proved tricky to find somewhere for me to meet the delivery van and for him to unload Streak. I used ThruEurope InterTrans – details at the end of this blog.

La Grand’Place, Lille
Great spot for moules frittes on the Grand’Place
Northern France Regional Newspaper founded in 1941
Moules frittes 😋
So good to be reunited with Streak
Had a lovely long chat with Abdel who stopped as I was loading up Streak

No Storm/Anthony = no GPS. So roadside improvisation is called for…

Anne’s GPS

I was looking forward to seeing the white cliffs of Dover…

It’s going to be a wet ride from Dover
Made it back to Canterbury

Our time since returning from Italy has mostly been spent sorting my mother’s place, originally with the aim of preparing her home for her return from respite following her recent surgery and resulting delirium. It turned out to be a much bigger exercise than originally thought – a reminder to clean up/get rid of one’s own paperwork which has accumulated over the years/decades! Sadly this focus meant we could not catch up with all those we wanted to or see any exhibition or new museum we’d planned to visit. Next time… We did get to find all sorts of new routes from my mum’s place to the station.

Canterbury

– Anne

PS: For anyone needing shipping within Europe/UK, I used and am happy to recommend:

ThruEurope InterTrans Kft.

Krisztián Gulyás

H-7629,Pécs Komlói út 69. 3/2, Hungary

http://www.thrueurope.co.uk

e-mail: thrueurope@gmail.com

tel.: +44(0)7788105659 +36707563124