A popular Finnish myth tells of a magical arctic firefox (“tulikettu” in Finnish) with a large furry tail that would sweep across the Arctic fells and tundra, creating sparks that lit up the sky or “fire foxes” which the northern lights are known as in Finland.
Underpass mural of the Arctic Firefox
For anyone who has had the priviledge of seeing the Aurora Borealis (or the Aurora Australis in the southern hemisphere), you can imagine that sweeping tail. The aurora seems to be dancing above your head, all around you.
The aurora is best seen at night from autumn to spring but is never guaranteed. You can get a clear night, but the geomagnetic fluctuations (measured by a magnetometer over a 3 hour period and rated as KP index from 0 to 9 with 9 representing the most intense geomagnetic storm) are not sufficient to create the northern lights. The Kp-Index – derived from the German “Planetarische Kennziffer meaning “Planetary Index” – is a measure of geomagnetic activity in the Earth’s atmosphere. Similarly, you could have the perfect conditions, with a high KP index rating but have an overcast night and you won’t get to see the lights.
We are staying in a log cabin on the edge of a lake for 3 nights just outside Inari, really hoping we get to see the northern lights but the weather forecast is not looking good.
Still, fingers crossed…. Inari is pinned on my Aurora app, showing the forecast % cloud cover by the hour and KP index for the next 24 hours. Using that app and AccuWeather to see the actual cloud cover and rain movements, my alarm clock is set for 10pm when the rain clouds are meant to clear, 3am and 4am when a KP index of 5 is forecast!
After an unexpected beautiful clear day, the massive rain front coming up from the south is making its way up to us very fast and suddenly, the sky is completely overcast. Not looking good for a sky show later tonighth. Oh well, time for a sauna then.
View from our cabin, looking northLooking the other way: the weather from the south is getting to us
The predicted rain arrives on cue, still raining as 10pm approaches. Ever the optimist, I walk outside just after 10pm – the stars are visible!! There are some clouds still. Clouds? No, clouds don’t move so fast and eratically. It is a faint aurora! Anthony has to see this. By the time we are both outside, the aurora colours are clearly visible through the phone even if not strong to the naked eye. And the sky is dancing!
What a show we get.
Our cabin on the left
An hour later, we call it a day and decide to catch some sleep before 3am. The activity is much stronger and the aurora is moving quite fast, making it very difficult to capture on our mobile phones – these blurry photos do not justice to what nature put on for us that night.
See the shooting star?!
By 4am, the sky was overcast but the KP index strong enough to show the strong aurora activity. What would have the sky looked like without that cloud cover!
That was a crazy sky dancing above us
Nature has a way of making you feel insignificant and grateful to be alive to witness such beauty.
With Christmas fast approaching, the opportunity to secure a favourable rating from Santa should not be overlooked. I understand that he lives outside Rovaniemi, located on the Arctic Circle in central Finland and since Anne has always wanted to spend time in the Finnish countryside, what a great chance to combine our two objectives.
With our not inconsiderable amount of baggage in tow, we head to the Heathrow Terminal 4 Hilton hotel, a quick drive to return the car to Hertz and back turns into a saga of epic proportions as an emergency closes Terminal 4 which in turn stops all transport. How will I get back to the Hilton Executive lounge before happy hour closes at 7pm? The answer is I did not but Anne had secured me a large glass of wine in advance. It turns out half the lounge knows of the Terminal 4 closure and my delay and want to hear my story. Not too exciting but I shared a taxi between terminals with a Maltese woman trying to catch a flight home.
Next morning, after a filling breakfast with great service, we realise after the effort of getting four suitcases, two carry on bags and a motorcycle helmet from the room to the lobby that taking the train between terminals is completely impractical. An excellent taxi ride with a local driver, who educated us about in-flight catering as he was previously a General Manager in that industry. Helsinki here we come.
Finnair A350-900 OH-LWD ready to take us to Helsinki.
We have a relaxing evening in the Executive lounge at the Helsinki Airport Hilton, then after an early breakfast, which starts there at 3am which is far to early for us, we board a local train to Helsinki Station
Helsinki Airport snippets from performances by the Finnish National Opera and Ballet’s repertoire
There we wait the IC 23 to take us to Oulu. Here we will transfer to a bus onward to Rovaniemi due to daytime track work. We have chosen seats on the double decker train above the buffet car. Included in our ticket is all you can drink tea, coffee and hot chocolate, yummmmm….
Ready to take passengers to RovaniemiInternet connectivity on Finland Trains, very helpful
The suburbs behind us, the landscape changes – patches of Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris), Norway spruce (Picea abies), and Silver Birch (Betula pendula), thanks Wikipedia. The Silver Birch is also Finland’s national tree.
Countryside north of Helsinki
The forests are interspersed with fields covered with golden stubble. The crops are harvested and the hay already safely stored for winter. Blue skies have accompanied us all the way. It is interesting, as a railway buff, that much of the lumber is removed by rail not road. We pass many sidings with railway wagons loaded with logs ready for shipment to distant factories.
Timber loaded and ready to travel southUpper Premium section with individual swivel chairs
Comfortable seats, food delivered to you, glorious scenery, the only downside is that when you see an interesting track meandering into the distance you cannot stop and explore. Due to daytime track-work the last three hours to Rovaniemi are by bus. We are happy to arrive at our Airbnb and settle in. We stock up at the local supermarket while navigating unfamiliar product names.
A walk down to the waterfront and we find a group of five girls dressed in pink badge covered overalls. Hens night? Birthday Party? No, turns out they are third year art students, hence pink colour, from the local university manning a checkpoint for first year students undertaking an initiation course. We learn that Law students wear burgundy (dark red), grey for accountants perhaps? Just kidding. The overalls were introduced in the 1960’s.
University art students in customary pink overalls
Ever wondered what Rudolf and his friends did for the rest of the year? We can confirm they work as Uber drivers in Rovaniemi in the off season.
Santa’s reindeer hard at work in the off season.
When we arrived in Finland the weather forecast was for rain, rain and more rain where we’re heading. We had resigned ourselves to this, but so far, each morning the forecast changed and we have had mostly sunny days. We take advantage of this and we walk to the Arktikum Science Centre and Museum.
Along the river in Rovaniemi, different Lapland rock explained
Here we get hope to get a better understanding of the region we will be exploring for the next week. Worth the time to give us background on not only the environment but the culture and learn about some of those who made their lives here such as Hildur Larsson whose work and life are exhibited here.
Entrance to the Arktikum MuseumInside the Arktikum Museum, RovaniemiPhotographer Hildur Larsson (9/9/1882-3/5/1952)By Hildur Larsso. Clever use of a steam locomotive in winterLook up to see where a Polar Bear can reach!
Blue sky again the next day, what luck. While we have been to a number of northern climes before including Alaska, Siberia and Iceland we realise that we have never crossed the Arctic circle. Visiting Santa will mean that we finally cross over to the other side.
Anne inside the Arctic Circle for the first time
Meeting Santa in his home for the first time could be daunting, but Santa quickly puts you at ease. We chatted briefly about Queensland and did check that our nephews and my sister, who had asked, were on the good’ list, “Mostly” said Santa, so those three should have a good Christmas this year.
Time well spent with Santa with Christmas in sight.
It is amazing to think that half a million letters are sent to Santa each year at his official post office that is part of the Finnish Postal Service. The letters wend their way here with many different addresses from countries as diverse as Andorra and Zambia. No post code required for these letters!
Probably the only address that gets all its letters
After lunch we take a walk looking for a husky dog centre, sadly it does not open till November. I think we are between seasons, summer is waining, but winter not established yet. Probably a good time to take a break although there are many motor homes and a few coaches around.
Anne spies a walking track and we are off exploring. Autumn colours and textures abound as we walk through the forrest. A large map shows that tracks for walking and skidoo riding run for tens of kilometres in all directions. Must be amazing in winter just zooming along on the snow. Perhaps a winter visit?
Follow the Yellow Brick Road
Tomorrow we pick up a car and head further north, Reindeer, Polar Bears and Icebergs?, who knows what we will see.
– Anthony
PS. Recently, as many will be aware of, there has been some controversy over the incorporation of mushrooms, especially in dishes like beef wellington. Anne has recently taken an renewed interest in mushrooms. I have found the following photos on her phone, all taken here in Finland.
I also noted the following flavour of crisps for sale in Finland.
Probably not likely to be a big seller in Australia.
Thursday afternoon Passport Control in rural Oxfordshire? Well sort of: we have just arrived at the Overland Event. Due to my lack of social media exposure, I was not aware of the Overland Event’s existence until Anne suggested attending so have no idea what to expect.
At “Passport Control”, we are swiftly registered, gain multi coloured wrist bands and follow then back on the bikes, follow the signs “Motorcycles only” to a large camping area where a multitude of different coloured tents are being busily erected. With rain forecast, we quickly get our faithful Jack Wolfskin tent up and all our gear stowed inside out of the rain.
Love those monster American coffee cupsGlorious camping weather, when the sun shines.
The Overland Event has been held annually since 2015, except for 2024 to allow the organiser time to take his own trip, a gathering of like minded motorcycle travellers, sharing knowledge and experiences while camping out for three days. Only 500 tickets are made available so the numbers are not overwhelming as can be the case at similar events. Up to three streams of presentations, stands and famous motorcycles on exhibit will keep us fully occupied.
A number of adventure rider luminaries will be here, including Ted Simon, Sam Manicon, Tiffany Coates, Michelle Lamphere and Kinga Tanajewska (from On Her Bike). The first three we have met before at Overland Expo West in Arizona in 2017. Others Anne has been in contact with over the years but never met in person.
As we walk towards the main precinct we note styles of tents range from one man bivouacs to palatial mansion sized tents that require their own sidecar to transport them. While many of the motorcycles were BMW GS’s I only noticed two identical tents.
Trailer for teepee and kitchen
While the hardier amongst us had their own stoves for cooking, various tasty food trucks and variety of on tap beers and ciders were more than enough for me.
The opening welcome was quite a clever icebreaker, people had been asked to send in interesting motorcycling photos and then explain them to the audience in a few minutes. A good variety, great stories involved everything from cranes and winches to dead badgers!
How did the three days go? Friday morning was raining and few stirred early, us included. Coffee and breakfast dragged us from the tent and then off to explore.
Nigel just back from RTW.
I had expected to spend my time in presentations, but kept meeting people, got talking and time just flew by. Nigel who camped next to us had just finished a RTW which had seen him in Kashmir when Pakistan and India squared off recently.
Noel had ridden from India via Iran, but tourist rule changes after the Israeli attacks make the return home to India more problematic. Chloe had problems shipping her small Honda back so dismantled it in her hotel room and packed it into three suitcases. So many great stories and inspirational riders.
Chloe’s suitcase bike partially reassembled for the event.
Saturday morning the sun was out and we were awake early, seems we were giving a presentation! Somehow Anne’s offer to present if they had a cancellation and our recent visit to Algeria gained the organisers’ attention and so we are up at 9:00am. We had only finished the powerpoint slides the night before but were unsure of who our audience would be and how to pitch the presentation. We knew that at least three people we had met the day before would turn up, but were pleased to have a fairly full room. Positive comments afterwards allayed our fears and we hope that some may one day visit Algeria and enjoy the same hospitality that we did.
Fabulous surprise finally meeting Tracy Charles in personSam Manicom and his wife BirgitAndy who we met en route to the event.With the legendary Ted SimonAll the presenters, including the 2slowspeeds.
There is a great community spirit at this event, well known presenters can be found making breakfast rolls. People are happy to share their knowledge and experiences with others. We even had a Singaporean couple who had ridden to the event from home taking 15 months and covering 55,000 miles / 80,000 km. Sadly one rider coming from India had his motorbike and all possessions stolen near Nottingham two days previously. The motorcycle community rallied and he immediately got several offers of loan bikes, new gear etc. He was eventually gifted a brand new KTM by The Off Road Centre store. What a fabulous community.
Sunday we packed up and the motorcycling adventures will pause for a little while. I am glad we attended the Overland Event and certainly would again.
Well the last six weeks have seen little in the way of motorcycle riding. With Storm awaiting repairs, the only riding has been done by Anne. A quick Eurostar to Lille, “moules and frites” with a glass of wine in the “La Grand’Place” square and the following day a swift dash from Lille to Calais to catch a ferry back to the UK. This is about the first time that we have ridden separately.
Lille is where I went to University and Anthony would visit every other week end from London. Funny how sights and smells and music can trigger strong memories. Approaching Lille Flandres main station from the Eurostar brought back those butterflies of arriving with my brother at night to meet Anthony off the train.
Lille Flandres train station
Rue Faidherbe is a surprise with its current interactive art installation, Golden Monoliths. One could identify different fauna sounds, identify flora smells, answer the artist’s questions, look through different periscopes. Fun!
Golden MonolithsPress here to vote “reinitialise the world”
The centre of Lille has been beautifully renovated and has been turned into a large pedestrian area. Great for walking but proved tricky to find somewhere for me to meet the delivery van and for him to unload Streak. I used ThruEurope InterTrans – details at the end of this blog.
La Grand’Place, LilleGreat spot for moules frittes on the Grand’PlaceNorthern France Regional Newspaper founded in 1941Moules frittes 😋So good to be reunited with StreakHad a lovely long chat with Abdel who stopped as I was loading up Streak
No Storm/Anthony = no GPS. So roadside improvisation is called for…
Anne’s GPS
I was looking forward to seeing the white cliffs of Dover…
It’s going to be a wet ride from DoverMade it back to Canterbury
Our time since returning from Italy has mostly been spent sorting my mother’s place, originally with the aim of preparing her home for her return from respite following her recent surgery and resulting delirium. It turned out to be a much bigger exercise than originally thought – a reminder to clean up/get rid of one’s own paperwork which has accumulated over the years/decades! Sadly this focus meant we could not catch up with all those we wanted to or see any exhibition or new museum we’d planned to visit. Next time… We did get to find all sorts of new routes from my mum’s place to the station.
Canterbury
– Anne
PS: For anyone needing shipping within Europe/UK, I used and am happy to recommend:
Anne takes us around Milan and we continue to head northward. When I looked at booking options for tonight 98% of sites were unavailable, probably because I am picky about price, parking etc. My choice ends up being in Bellano a small village on the eastern shores of Lake Como where we have booked an apartment overlooking the lake.
A few hairpin bends in the car, a couple of extra grey hairs and we arrive at our apartment. We have a fabulous view northwards looking down onto lake Como and the mountains beyond.
Sunset view over Lake Como from our apartment
Rather than face those grey hair inducing curves again we walk down to the village in light rain to stock up on food and drink for the next couple of days. Beautiful views, great to enjoy the fabulous scenery on foot both ways. Worth walking although a bit harder uphill for some reason.
Looking north up lake Como from above BellanoSo many steps in every village
The next day sees us taking a leisurely stroll along the waterfront in Bellano followed by lunch overlooking the lake, I could get used to this, then an afternoon siesta. This is the first day we have not driven since we picked up the hire car.
Steps, steps and more steps!Church of Saints Nazaro and Celso, Bellano
On the way to a well deserved rest back at the apartment we went via the Orrido di Bellano. The Orrido, a well known local attraction, is a narrow natural gorge that not only provides a great walkthrough on an elevated platform but powers a small hydro power plant. Waterpower was previously used for metal making and cotton weaving.
The hydro power station in BellanoOrrido gorge, BellanoOrrido gorge, Bellano
While the idea of an Italian One Euro house sounds appealing, we had not factored in the material delivery by helicopter! As we prepared to depart we see a helicopter was ferrying material containers from a house high above us. Back to winning lotto then.
Helicopter moving building materials
Down the western side of the lake we see many motorcycles and although we are in the comfort of the air-conditioned car, we are still missing Streak and Storm. The weather is still hot so we would not miss that aspect of the travel especially the slow pace that is caused by the traffic congestion.
So many motorcycles of all sorts
As we leave Milan for Switzerland, we are now finally back on the original schedule we had planned with Streak and Storm. While we have missed both Sardinia and Corsica, we have enjoyed the places we had not planned to see.
We head up over the Great Saint Bernard Pass, the weather is kind to us and we have blue skies all the way. So many motorcycles of all different models and vintages. Not too many as to make riding uncomfortable, as we have heard on some passes, probably because the Great Saint Bernard does not have quite as many tight hairpin bends. Another time for us perhaps.
Great Saint-Bernard PassEnjoying the mountain air on the Great Saint-Bernard PassGreat Saint-Bernard Pass
With accommodation limited because of the Montreux Jazz Festival, we have opted to camp and have a suitcase full of camping gear taken off Streak and Storm. A little unusual but the easiest way to transport by rail, car and air. We are based at Noville on the south side of Lake Geneva, (or Lac Léman, its official name, as it is known in France) opposite Montreux.
Camping for 3 nights for the Montreux festivalCamping in style!Motorcyclists father and son Kristian and Kikkan Great idea by father and son, map your journey as you go.
A short drive from the campsite we can catch a train from Villeneuve into Montreaux and avoid the hassle of parking there.
Train into Montreux – no high fences here
We take a day to head to Chamonix via the Col de la Forclaz. Anne has not been there for years and while Chamonix is a very pretty town, having coffee with Mt Blanc as the backdrop is well worth the drive.
Monument to doctor Michael Paccard, who with Jacques Balmat, was the first to ascend Mont Blanc in 1786Mont Blanc from Chamonix
Spread along the waterfront the Montreux Jazz Festival has food-stalls, souvenirs, yes Anne has the t-shirt and hat, buskers and secondary stands with lesser known bands playing.
Anne bids you welcomeAll tagged up for the Montreux Jazz Festival
Every year, I (Anne) make sure I do something special in honour of my brother. He and I used to talk for hours, shared similar tastes in music, had talked about going to Montreux for many years and had planned on going there together in the year 2000. But we didn’t make it. Life had become unbearable for him. While Anthony and I were still in Algeria, I checked who was playing on “his day” at Montreux this year – Neil Young! The 2nd joint LP we bought in 1972 was Neil Young’s Harvest and remained a favourite one of ours. It was a “no brainer” – Neil Young playing on the 6th July – a perfect way to remember my brother. I went all out and got the best tickets! Amazingly, the morning of the concert, on our walk to the city centre, I suddenly suggested we stop at this lakeside bar and have a drink – a few minutes later, this gorgeous ferry pulls up just in front of us, bearing the name of the street we grew up on!! What are the odds?! Of all the billions of possibilities!! As an Aboriginal elder friend of mine once told me, the spirits were talking to me. And yes, the concert was amazing.
A drink to Alan😱🤩An amazing spot for Neil Young’s concertNeil Young concert, Montreux Jazz FestivalNeil Young concert, Montreux Jazz FestivalNeil Young in concert at Montreux
Back over the Alps again, this time over Simplon pass, sadly sans Streak and Storm but maybe one day we will ride the Alps on rejuvenated motorcycles.
Along the Simplon PassAlong the Simplon PassSimplon Hospice commissioned by Napoleon in 1801
Back to Milan and a day in the city dodging the thunderstorms.
Milan Duomo, sans scadfolding
Hire car returned, bags checked in and after the security and immigration we are ready to go. Two hours later we arrive back in the UK. Our travels will take (have taken!) a break, as will this blog, while we focus on family and hopefully friends till the end of August.
– Anthony & Anne
P.S. Toilets, now there is a subject I do not recall covering before in this blog. Malpensa Airport Terminal 2 just before duty free looks more like a Hollywood red carpet location . Inside clean, smells good, jazz playing, hooks for bags at the urinals and hands free washing. 10 out of 10.