27 October – End of the journey.

As the future through SpaceX fades into the haze behind us, we return to the present and are heading for Houston.  An early start will give us an opportunity to visit the city of Corpus Christi, specifically to see the USS Lexington (CV-16) which is a museum ship anchored there.

USS Lexington (CV-16) ready to set sail.

USS Lexington (CV-16) is an Essex class aircraft carrier laid down in July 1941 originally to be called USS Cabot. Following the scuttling of USS Lexington (CV-2) after the battle of the Coral Sea in May 1942, workers at the dockyard, which built both ships, requested a name change.

The USS Lexington, (CV-16) reportedly nicknamed “The Blue Ghost” by Japanese propagandist “Tokyo Rose” perhaps because the Japanese claimed to have sunk her four times went on to serve in the US Navy in the Pacific from 1943 to 1945.  Moved to reserve in 1946 she was modernised with steam catapults and an angled flight deck in the 1950’s.  She did not see action in either the Korean or Vietnam wars but became a training carrier in the 1960’s, a role she continued to do until retired in the early 1990’s.

The flight deck seems huge when you are close up
Looking aft of the island on the USS Lexington (CV-16)

The ship is maintained by volunteers who are working to make more areas of the ship accessible to the public through guided tours that last for 3-4 hours and take one into the heart of the ship.  While it seems there is quite a crew, the workload must be enormous. I would not want to be on the painting detail.

As one stands on the deck of the USS Lexington surrounded by jets from the modern era it is hard to imagine that the ship had been in service for almost 50 years starting with propeller driven aircraft through to the supersonic jet age. For those fans of the original 1986 movie “Top Gun” the F14A, serial number 160694, was the aircraft “flown” by Maverick (Tom Cruise).  The F14 looks as if it is ready to be catapulted into action sitting on one of the forward catapult positions on the flight deck.

F14A used in movie “Top Gun” on the flight deck.

We are lucky that not only have friends from Fort Worth who moved to Houston since the last time we saw them, but other friends who retired to Costa Rica are in town.  We can catch up everyone in one location.  If only all our friends were so considerate rather than scatter themselves all over the globe, it would make travelling so much easier just one location to visit.  Just kidding!

Sadly COVID still had a way of affecting our plans. Pam our friend went down with COVID the day we arrived!  We still caught up with Bob a couple of times and enjoyed his generous hospitality.  Pam, we will see you next time we are heading that way.

The rest of our friends were COVID free and we had a wonderful couple of days catching up, relaxing with them and enjoying their hospitality. At one restaurant we experienced a truly American experience.  After dinner we went to the bar area to watch the end of the Houston Oilers / New York Yankees game for the American League Championship.  Houston went on the win that night, took the series and the World Series shortly afterwards. A great year for them.

Great to catch up with dear friends in Houston

Sadly, we had to return our bright red Dodge Challenger after two and a half weeks on the road. It has been fun and we have covered some 3,600 ml. / 5,800 km and turned a new car into a well used car! Onward to Los Angeles.

On the beach in Corpus Christi.

As we trudge through the Hertz car lot at LAX, I see we have been upgraded to President’s Circle.  A new experience.  A vast array of cars greets us.  We can choose anyone.  Oh I cannot help myself: there is a gleaming white Ford Mustang convertible.  No, the luggage does not fit as well as the Dodge Challenger but we get it all in: Road Trip part 2…..

Back in sports car mode. Last day on the beach in LA.

We are heading north to Buellton in Southern California, where a long time friend Charlie lives.  We have not seen him for many years so not only is it a chance to catch up but we will also be spending a couple of days wine tasting and dining out together.

An hour north of Buellton is Paso Robles, the centre of a wine region that has been producing since the Spanish introduced grapes to the region around 1800.  Today over 200 smaller wineries are known for their production of high quality wines.  With Charlie we have an expert on local wineries, but only time to sample a fraction of the fine offerings.  Over 2 days we visited wineries including Rocky Creek and Aaron Wines.  Because they are smaller wineries, producing a few thousand not tens of thousands of cases of wine a year we were able to converse with the owners/winemakers themselves including John Somogyi at Rocky Creek Cellars and Vailia From at Desparada.  We also got to be shown the process of removing mouldy grapes at Aaron Wines which is done by hand and via a centrifuge.  All in all a great couple of days 

Great to be hiking with Charlie again
Turley vines dating back to late 1800s
Removing grapes with mould by hand and machine at Aaron wines.

Halloween at the end of October, as many would know, is big in the USA.  While we have seen many ghoulishly decorated homes along the way including the one below, we have never been to a pumpkin farm.  So with Charlie it was a first.  I am not sure how one moves some of the larger pumpkins, by crane?

Now which pumpkin should I choose?
Our hotel receptionist’s halloween nails in Paso Robles
Halloween decorations at Manhattan Beach, CA
Creepy people around Manhattan Beach LA.

Leaving  Charlie and Paso Robles behind we head east in a loop back to Los Angles.  We pass Maricopa on Highway 166, following a scenic drive from Santa Maria, we come across nodding donkeys working steadily still, pumping oil. It is easy to forget, with the move to renewables being led by States such as California, that there is a history of oil production in Southern California. This can be traced back over 130 years with some of the first wells in the Los Angles basin close to the coast. I believe only one well in this region is still producing today. 

Nodding donkeys working outside Maricopa, CA

Vasquez Rocks, off State Route 14, has been the setting for movies and TV shows since the 1930’s. I recall the location used in a number of Star Trek episodes but scenes in over 50 movies as diverse as “Apache” (1954), “The Muppet Movie” (1979), “Planet of the Apes” (2001) have been filmed there as well as numerous TV shows.  While the location is stunning, it seems the main reason it was chosen was because it was close enough to Hollywood not to require overtime payments to movie staff for travelling beyond a certain distance.

Vasquez rocks, remember the movies you have seen them in?
We are heading home tomorrow.

In a past life, I used to return from San Francisco to Brisbane via the midnight night flight from Los Angeles International (LAX).  This gave me a six hour layover and rather than sit in the airline lounge, I used to take a taxi to Manhattan Beach south of the airport and find a friendly bar to enjoy the sunset over the Pacific Ocean with a cold beer in hand.

Finally after decades of midnight departures with 14 hours flying to arrive back in Brisbane at the break of dawn, we have a sensible departure time:  we have a morning departure.  Since we had arrived back in Los Angeles at lunchtime, I decided we should head to back Manhattan Beach.  After a leisurely lunch looking over the Pacific Ocean, we took a last stroll down to the Pier and found my old bar. Fond memories.

Tomorrow we will be looking at the Pacific Ocean from the other side!

We descend back into Brisbane three and a half months after we left.  So great to catch up with family and friends, old and new.  We have had many new experiences as well. Thanks to all who made the journey so memorable.

Anthony and Anne

The future? SpaceX Starbase and Starship

Brownsville is probably not the first item on most people’s travel itinerary when visiting Texas. Located on the banks of the Rio Grande river close to the Gulf of Mexico, it is over 1100 kms. / 700 mls. round trip from Houston, where we are planning to catch up with friends. We are drawn to Brownsville, or more accurately Boca Chica, the home of SpaceX’s Starbase, to see where the construction of the Super Heavy boosters and the Starships are being undertaken.

I find the SpaceX story fascinating, developing a reusable rocket system from scratch.  When I watch the boosters landing either on the ships or land, I am transported back to my childhood watching Gerry Anderson’s Thunderbirds or earlier Fireball XL5 series on black and white  television where model rockets appeared to land vertically just like we see today. Science fiction then, reality now. Until SpaceX developed the Falcon series, rocket boosters were just dumped into the ocean.  I wonder if there is an undersea mountain of discarded boosters down there.

As we headed south through Texas, we notice that in addition to the good old “nodding donkeys”used for oil extraction that have been there for decades, we start to see wind farms with the giant wind turbines rotating in unison, seemingly stretching to the horizon in some locations. The change to a renewable future is even here in oil rich Texas.

Wind Turbines now start to dot the landscape.

As we have travelled over the preceding years, much of what we have seen and experienced has been historically based. We read the plaques that give details of events that have shaped the past and present.  In a sense, we are looking backwards, not forward.  What we are about to see with the Starship is the future, it has not happened yet and the reason we are here.  We want to see and feel the future.

Texas State Highway 4 runs from Brownsville to the beach at Boca Chica on the Gulf of Mexico.  The state of the road, potholed in some places, gives no clue as to the importance of this route High voltage transmission lines the only indication that something of substance lies ahead. We notice on our left a US Border Patrol checkpoint for vehicles coming back from the coast due to the proximity of the US Mexican border along the Rio Grande river. We will have to negotiate the checkpoint on our return.

Our first glimpse of Space City is of two tall grey buildings rising out of the almost flat sandy landscape, as we drive closer a series of tall objects come into view, The Rocket Garden. 

Our first glimpse of SpaceX Starbase..
SpaceX Production facilities at Boca Chica.
We are here at the home of the Starship.

We both feel the excitement rising as we approach what is the SpaceX construction facility. We were not sure if it would be worth the long detour here, but as the buildings and rockets come more clearly into focus, we both know the trip was worthwhile.

I had expected that we would see more visitors here to see what SpaceX is doing, but only a couple of locals are present.  There is no large visitors car park full of curious visitors, souvenir stands or guided tours.  It is all so low key.  I guess I was expecting large gates, fences topped with razor wire and guards shepherding away those of us who get too close.  The opposite is true, low fences open gates and in some cases no gates just a small sign saying “ No trespassing Private Property”. We get an uninterrupted view of the Starships and booster.

Our first stop is the launch pad where to see the rocket combination on the launchpad. We are able to just park at the side of the road in the sand and walk back towards the rocket. What an amazing scene greets us.  Only a day or so before we arrive, SpaceX have assembled Super Heavy Booster No. 7 and Starship 24 on the launch pad. We hear that this is the combination that could be used for the first test launch.  Did they put it up just for our visit, or for passengers the convoy of Teslas that probably had Elon Musk inside one we saw entering the complex?  We will let you decide.

Ready to go SpaceX launch facilities and the crowds watching.
Hope they do not start up while I am standing here.
Starship 24 and Super Heavy Booster No. 7 Assembled on the launch pad.
The old and new. Original houses from Boca Chica village.

Driving back, we park outside the Rocket Garden, an aptly named area that has earlier designs three Starships including SN15, which was the first to successfully take off and land on the 5th of May 2021, plus a Super Heavy Booster to round off the display.  It interesting to compare each one and see external differences as the designs have evolved. 

No Gates, just a polite “Private Property” Anthony outside the SpaceX Rocket Garden.
Hang on we are off for a ride.
That close but not trespassing. Amazing.

We are back again the following morning to see everything again in the early morning light, better for photographs. Just beyond the launch site the road abruptly finishes at the beach on the Gulf of Mexico. Golden sands stretch north and south with the mouth of the Rio Grande just a short distance away.

My sentiments exactly, but more artistic than I could do.

In addition to purchasing a number of the original Boca Chica village residences for staff accommodation, a certain Airstream salesman must have got a great commission of the dozens and dozens of Airstream trailers/caravans that dot the landscape.

We are educated on how to identify the house that Elon Musk stays in when visiting, sorry no clues from us. No, it is not a Tesla parked outside, Teslas are common cars around here. Sadly Elon was not home to discuss our longer term travel plans. Yes we would move from motorcycles and cars to Starships given the opportunity, but there are many many more qualified than us ahead in the queue for such adventures. We will just have to dream.

The place is a hive of activity, even on the weekends.  We understand from a local that SpaceX operates multiple shifts a day, 7 days week in some areas.  You can see that this level of activity must move things along more quickly than the Monday to Friday 9-5 routine.  The challenge would be the handovers each day.  It must be much easier to come into work as we did and know that nothing has changed since you went home. 

One of the perhaps lesser known facts about SpaceX operations is the clever recycling they use.  There are two 9m high S-Band Tracking Antenna that were formally used by NASA for the Space Shuttle program and were considered scrap that have been purchased by SpaceX for their use with Starship and Falcon programs.  One of the original rocket engine test beds that flew a few meters off the ground is now a water tank.

9m. / 30 ft. high S-band tracking station antenna.

We leave the SpaceX Starbase complex for the second time and head for Houston.  We feel lucky and privileged to seen what we have. The detour here was definitely worth it.  Thank you SpaceX for making this all so open to see for those who come here. Please respect the boundaries and enjoy seeing the future before it becomes reality.

– Anthony

PS Anyone has Elon Musk’s email address so we can discuss our future travel plans?

 

Shopping in Texas

When in the USA we have always taken a little time for shopping. In the past, we have found both competitive pricing and variety giving us the best of both worlds. 

Being in Texas where everything is bigger, yes I know that Texas is just a small town in Queensland, I meant the other one, we should avail ourselves of the opportunity.

With Christmas approaching and having binged on numerous Netflix Christmas movies in the motels, perhaps now was the time to upgrade our festive decorations from minimalist to extravagant.  Lunch at the Cracker Barrel chain offered such an opportunity to do just that.  Surrounded by all the glitter I was ready to buy up big, but just could not decide between the “All White” or the “multi coloured look”. Oh well there is always next year.

Texas was where some years ago I introduced Anne to the pistol range.  We both shot 9mm and even though it was Anne’s first time, her aim was good with only the recoil of her Smith and Wesson MP9 affecting the grouping of the rounds vertically.  Anne likes to keep her eyes out for an all in one versatile handbag and I thought that these might just be the ones.

All I need now is that nice 9mm handgun.

Seems the colour choices and the lack of armament options back in Australia have killed another sales opportunity. Oh well.

The term “Premium Outlet Stores” has, in my mind, conjured up a slightly better class of discount store. What I had not realised is that there are Premium and “PREMIUM” outlet stores. We learnt that at the San Marcos Premium Outlets located between Austin and San Antonio.  Armani, Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo amongst others provide a chance to acquire luxury branded goods at atmospheric, not stratospheric prices, but still outside our price range. 

If only they had my size in that style.

Luckily, seems we cannot get past the dark suited gentlemen with earpieces at the doors, something about unfashionable customers – phew that saved a few dollars.

Gun detection dogs in shopping centres. Whatever next.

When parking in shopping centres we are always mindful of our personal security and that of the automobile which usually contains all our possessions, no guns here, for the trip. Most centres seem to have some form of security but this was purely Texas.

Mounted car park patrol Texas style.

Eric explained that being on horseback gave a commanding view of the vehicles from above roof hight and I am sure it is easier to lasso a varmint from a horse than a security golf buggy.  Great idea.

Well shopping in Texas was a bust. A couple of pairs of jeans for me and a wallet still full of dollar bills.  Not a bad shopping trip.

And for those who don’t know us that well, our home borders on the minimalist, our 43 year old Christmas tree is a mere 50cm/20 inches tall and Anne hates guns.

– Anthony

Nashville, a little bit country

Where we left you all standing at end of the last blog.

Sorry to leave you all standing in the queue outside The Station Inn for so long back in October.  This blog entry was delayed by a version on “Writer’s Cramp” that afflicted us since our return to Australia at the end of that month.  We will over the next week round off the USA portion of our 2022 journey and hopefully normal service will be resumed sometime in 2023 when we actually work out what we are going to do next.

Just before 7pm the queue starts to move forwards, we have been chatting with those around us and it seems to be a mixture of “out of towners” and locals.  For a fair number including us this was the first time here. Slowly up the ramp, still wondering about the capacity limit and we are in.

Some of the Station Inn crowd on Sunday night.

We scan the room looking for an empty table and make our way to the wall on the left of the stage. Settling in we start talking to neighbours who like us are both from out of town and first timers. 

Sunday night is “Bluegrass Jam Night”, There is no set format just a group of musicians who have turned up to play.  Bluegrass instruments only (guitar, fiddle, mandolin, dobro, bass, etc) are allowed at the jam. Numbers can vary and musicians from famous names to newcomers can turn up.  The relaxed atmosphere and the unknown mix of music makes each Sunday night a unique experience.

Station Inn Sunday night jamming.

The walls are covered with generations of posters from previous events. Since “The Station Inn” has been running since 1974 there is quite a range of dates.  With my almost non-existent County Music knowledge I do not know any of the names.  Anne may be better placed as she used to enjoy country music when she was driving the Australian outback roads by herself in a 4×4 in a previous life.

With food and drink sorted, we settle in to an evening of music.  I have to admit that every time, which is rarely, that I go to a live music event I enjoy the atmosphere and think why do I not go more often. Oh well. 

All part of the Station Inn’s long music history.

Part way though the evening, as part of interacting with the crowd, one of the musicians asked who has come the furthest for the evening.  “Florida”, “New York” as few call out.  The couple next to us call out “ They are from Australia” pointing to us.  Others take up the refrain and suddenly we’re declared the winners.  Great, we have won.  The music restarts and we go back to enjoying the evening.

A short time later a man approaches our table, introduces himself as Josh and asked if we have collected our prize for being the furthest away.  There is a prize? We can select a piece of merchandise from the store. Anne asks him if the is the owner, yes he is and we can get a t-shirt, or a cap.  In fact, take anything you like he says, t-shirts and caps and whatever.  We go to collect our prize. We both choose a t-shirt and as I eye the hat, I have always wanted an American style cap from a local business. We have our prizes.

With Josh. An amazing connection made.
Behind the bar at the Station Inn with Marissa
Anne’s new T-shirt from the Station Inn.

We continue to chat and are then invited to move back to the other side of the bar where we end up spending the rest of the evening.  The conversation flows and we feel we have made a connection, not only with Josh  but the other people we meet behind the bar, musicians, and other workers.  The bar is busy, and we often feel like we are in the way with rushing waitresses squeezing past or behind us,  never complaining.  Anne and Josh spend quite some time in his office, talking his Native American artwork and other photos on his wall and chatting for ages about his past, his family and his dreams.  Musicians come and go, business goes on around us but we all make the most of each other’s company.  As we once did previously in Indiana where a chance encounter leads to  lifelong friendship, this feels very similar.

Our new home behind the bar at the Station Inn.

What an amazing evening, being able to make such a strong connection we will be back tomorrow night for sure.

The next morning, in our budget motel’s foyer which doubles up as the breakfast area, we meet a young couple and get chatting.  He is a musician, looking to break into the Nashville scene, with his own songs.  He is young, and he has the best contacts here he tells us.  Another guest is there too, having his breakfast, walking back and forth, then just standing,  listening to our conversation.  He tells us he recognised us the winners at the World Famous Station Inn last night – he was behind us.   We get chatting and ask whether he’s local.  It turns out he is none other than Howard Fields, one of Kenny Rogers’ ex co-managers.  How he got into the music industry was fascinating.  A former army lieutenant colonel, he was asked by a friend to check on their son who had been trying to break into the music scene in Nashville for some years and they wanted his opinion on his talent and their investment.  Discovering there are many buskers with more talent than some represented in the numerous bars in Nashville, he thought he could help them with his business and management experience.  He become involved in artist management in 1992 and opened an entertainment management group with a couple of partners in 2009. He shared stories of his first meeting Dolly Parton, how he would use his time on the road between Atlanta, where he lived, and Nashville to listen to the hundreds of CD’s he received from fledgling artists and how he selected the ones to keep listening to.  We realised his stories to us were really lessons for the young artist we had been talking to.  A nice way of not giving them a lecture.  The artist’s girlfriend did ask Howard some interesting questions.   We left so that they could spend more time with Howard and hoping they would listen to his advice.     

While Nashville is well known as the “Country Music” capital, a lesser known title the city has looked to add is the “Bachelorette Capital” challenging Las Vegas for the title. The visible signs for us are the tractors pulling trailers loaded with partying ladies slowly through town. 

Bachelorette party on the move in downtown Nashville.
Not sure the legality of a Pedal Tavern under drink/ drive laws in Australia.

Broadway, a street that bisects the centre of Nashville downtown to the Cumberland river is home to numerous entertainment venues offering food, drinks and of course live music.  Each venue has at least one band playing, in some cases there is a band per floor!   One wonders how many musicians are needed to provide each venue with continuous live music every day of the week. As we wander amongst the tourist throng, of which we are a part, going from venue to venue we are struck by how each building seems to contain their own sounds. Perhaps the older buildings have better sound insulation.

Broadway in Nashville, teeming with music venues.
Layla’s Honky Tonk, Broadway Nashville.
Let hope they used the stronger brackets securing this one.
Nudies, been running since 1947.
Window listening instead of window shopping.
Elvis Presley’s suit in Nudies bar
The place to get those special cowboy or girl boots.

We spend an afternoon wandering from live music venue to live music venue sampling a wide range of both musical styles and artists.  Of course, some were better than others, most playing more contemporary country music than blue grass.  We saw a number of artists walking the streets with their instruments, walking in and out of those venues hoping for a gig and buskers on the pavement – witnessing many dreams in the making, or so we hoped for them.  The quality was nothing like that of the Station Inn but the atmosphere was great. 

We have complied a short music video which will be posted separately which gives a small glimpse of the array of musical talent on display.  Go and enjoy for yourselves.

Anne’s grandfather was a printing engineer so her interest was pricked when we came across the Hatch Show Print, a letterpress print shop since 1879, which has been printing with wood type, hand-carved images, oil based ink and mineral spirits which conditions and preserves the wood.  Sadly there were no tour slots left over the next few days.  It has created the many iconic posters for classic films, circuses and fairs. 

Hatch Show Print, Nashville
All the original machinery inside Hatch Show Print.

Our evening concludes back the “The Station Inn” for another night of music in what after only 24 hours seems like “home”.  We are lucky enough to meet Lorretta and Jane who has been coming here for decades. 

Eddy Dunlap playing his steel guitar
Eddy Dunlap’s steel guitar
Val Storey, Carl Jackson, and Larry Cordle

A great musical evening is sadly curtailed by a medical emergency for a band member’s family which required an ambulance. While the remaining band members gamely played on, their hearts were not in it and the audience applauded and supported their decision to conclude early.  I am pleased to say that they survived this very worrying episode.  

Anne, happy after an evening of Bluegrass music.

We reluctantly leave Nashville knowing we have new friends, a feeling of family and we will return to Nashville and “The Station Inn” to renew friendships and continue our country music education at some time in the future, hopefully not too far.

– Anthony & Anne