2 months in Europe

We always expected the completion of our Round The World motorcycle trip to bring a rollercoaster of emotions. How will we adjust to no longer being on the road, will we miss the freedom and exhilaration of the unknown, will we miss the excitement of the road, of making our plans as we go, of discovering new places, of meeting new people? As we were nearing the end of the trip, knowing we could celebrate an achievement we would never have dreamed of before the idea of making such a trip came to us out of the blue about 2 years ago, we knew we were no longer the same people and our outlook on life had changed. We were looking forward to seeing family and friends again, looking forward to reminiscing on some aspects of the trip as we found out the areas that interested people. We did expect to feed off the high of our achievement for a while as we readjusted to a new chapter in our lives. This was not to be!!

Coming back to ‘normal’ life happened for us with a thud. It was a bit brutal to say the least. The biggest change was completely unexpected: an undiagnosed and untreated illness that started hitting Anthony 2 months before the end of the trip and continued for another 2 months. What started as an irritating itch, turned into bursting blisters appearing on his back, backside, under his arms, his fingers and eventually all over his body, except his face. His skin itches all over his body all the time. The most difficult time for him is 15′ after waking up at around 5am and continues for about 6 hours. It eventually calms down and becomes more bearable. To say that this period has been extremely stressful and distressing is no exaggeration. Whenever I think of Anthony’s state, my stomach churns and my heart cries quietly. I try not to worry about his condition too much, as I watch him scratch silently, or I lather his body throughout the day with more anti-itch or steroid cream, find new blisters and cover individual burst blisters with antiseptic ointment. His blisters range from 1cm in diameter to 5cm. Some patches of skin are red raw. His days consist of scratching or napping during the day giving his body some much needed rest… It has been all consuming for the past couple of months. The experts we saw warned us of it most likely being an auto immune disease. Anthony resigned himself to having to manage his condition for the rest of his life. At least the first biopsy determined that his condition was not contagious and we would finally be able to visit family together. Having visited a few doctors, emergency departments, 3 dermatologists, had one inconclusive biopsy done, we pinned our hopes on getting a diagnosis on 2nd November from the Saint-Louis hospital in Paris where the 2nd biopsy was done. This hospital is reputed for being one of the very best for dermatology and hematology in Europe.

We had wondered how we would cope returning to ‘normal life!?!? Ha, we have come down from any high we might have had alright!!! We were in a holding pattern until 2nd November, one month after his 2nd biopsy. The surgeon in Paris warned us that if Anthony’s skin condition worsened, there was a risk that his whole skin could peel off. Not reassuring to say the least!

We are relieved to report we have a diagnosis on Anthony’s skin problem, it is easily cured and it is not an auto immune disease. An enormous relief, which has not quite sunk in yet. But…. we are embarrassed to report that it is contagious and we have potentially passed it onto anyone we have seen and hugged over the past few months. We have scabies – la gale!!! Yes, both of us. Anthony got a bullous impetigo, staphylococcus, from scratching, and continued infecting himself. His blisters masked the original scabies problem. Because my condition only manifested itself with tiny spots or red patches here and there and itching, albeit severe especially at night, I put it down to a gluten intolerance and just put up with it. Ha!! SlowSpeeds indeed!!!!

What a come back to earth!! Our RTW trip seems like a lifetime away, as the past 8 weeks have been all consuming with itching and worry and trying desperately and in vain to get our travel insurance to help us. We finally decided to return home as soon as possible after our 2nd visit to Saint-Louis in Paris. We have left Streak and Storm in storage for now, with all our riding gear and travel equipment for ??? Not sure how long, that will depend on Anthony’s health…

Our time in Europe has not been all bad of course, because we did manage to see our immediate family a few times each. Precious, precious moments. And we were thoroughly spoilt. After a month visiting family, we did feel the need to reconnect with nature and went to Yorkshire and Scotland for a week. It reminded us that one does not have to travel the world to find beauty. It is all around us. (Unfortunately, I only had my old iPhone to capture these sights as my camera batteries decided they would no longer recharge)

Reeth, Yorkshire

Reeth, Yorkshire

Yorkshire Dales national park

Yorkshire Dales national park

Loch Iubhair

Loch Iubhair

Loch Tulla, Scotland

Loch Tulla, Scotland

Loch na h-Achlaise, Scotland

Loch na h-Achlaise, Scotland

Scotland

Scotland


Loch Lomond, Scotland

Loch Lomond, Scotland

Urquhart castle on Loch Ness

Urquhart castle on Loch Ness


Whisky & Wine store in Edinburgh

Whisky & Wine store in Edinburgh

Trying 3 new single malts in the Bow Bar

Trying 3 new single malts in the Bow Bar


Durham cathedral

Durham cathedral

Inside Durham cathedral

Inside Durham cathedral


We have both taken our scabies treatment, are no longer contagious and are good to go (although itching will take another couple of weeks to subside as our anti bodies continue to fight). We leave Europe on Sunday 8th November, Anthony’s birthday!! We have now said our goodbyes to our family, until next time… Streak and Storm are resting in a climate controlled storage place, until next time… In a couple of days, we will be home, over 2 years since we left. How odd that after driving our hire cars for the past few weeks with my mobile recharging in it, only today, the day we said our final goodbyes before returning to Australia, does my mobile suddenly decide to play Gurrumul Yunupingu’s album – it feels like a sign, it is time, home is calling…!! I suddenly feel homesick, I miss the bush… It will be lovely to be home and catch up with friends.

While traveling around Europe for 2 months, all we had with us was one small on-board wheelie bag each. What is all this stuff that fill our cupboards back home and what were we thinking when we brought all this stuff over with us 2 years ago?! One thing we are certain of, we are no longer attached to ‘things’ and our first priority, after getting our phones and internet reconnected at home, is to declutter.

We have a busy time ahead and an exciting new stage in our lives awaits us …

– Anne

Our RTW is complete!!!

After we dropped the bikes off at Air Canada cargo and being separated from Streak and Storm, we feel like we have lost control of our destiny, in limbo. We have not quite finished the trip, yet this is another milestone – we can’t even work out how we feel. It is a strange time.

We get back to the UK on the 12th September after an overnight flight from Montreal, via Halifax. Clearing the bikes from Air Canada at Heathrow is quick and painless (except for an additional unexpected charge – from customs or Air Canada, not sure as each one claimed it was for the other…). It was still a very good deal overall, so no complaint, especially considering it was all done in 15′ and after a sleepless flight, we appreciate being reunited with Streak and Storm so quickly. We are lucky with the weather, clear blue skies, and we are able to repack in no time, even earning a congratulation from a truck driver who has been watching us from his cab. This friendly guy even offered me the use of his cab to change from as he saw I was about to take my jeans off. That is the least of my concerns, decline and I am back in my riding pants in no time.

Our first port of call is BMW Oxford, where we bought our demo bikes from. We thought they’d like to see the bikes after their round the world tour as the had commented when we left that it was nice to see that their bikes were going to be used for what they had been designed. We also wanted them to complete the bikes’ 36,000 miles service (we had already done the oil change and cleaned the re-usable K&N air filters).

A few hours later, we head for our hotel half way to Anthony’s sister Tansy in Dorset. We are exhausted, thought we would not be much company after an overnight flight, we didn’t want to ride too far and needed a long sleep before seeing family again.

I sleep for 11 hours and wake up refreshed – not so lucky for Anthony with his itchy skin. It looks like our last leg will be done in the rain. We rug up as it is cool too.

One last leg and the trip is complete

One last leg and the trip is complete

I recall how I had thought how long and boring the motorway journey to Dover nearly 15 months ago had felt – and it was our first day only – how will I cope with riding all around the world?!?! It seemed like such a massive task ahead of us. And we felt so green and inexperienced: we hadn’t even finished the beginner’s off road course and our motorcycle maintenance experience was next to nothing! Now, on our last day, the trip seems like it happened so fast and easily and it is just about over. Although it is raining, I am savouring these last couple of hours.

Welcome back to the UK!

Welcome back to the UK!


Approaching Verwood, Dorset where we started from

Approaching Verwood, Dorset where we started from


We approach Tansy’s home, the sun is out, the butterflies have reappeared, we see Tansy on the doorstep looking out for us, spotting us in the distance and waiving. What a sight. What a feeling. One last turn right, onto the gravel driveway, stop, the poppers and streamers go off, engines off. Wow. We have made it!!!!!!!!!!! Yes, the 2 Slow Speeds have just gone around the world on motorcycles and made it back with Streak and Storm, the 4 of us relatively unscathed. Our grateful thanks to our trusted companions, Streak and Storm, and our many guardian angels who can take a well deserved rest now.

We have made it!!

We have made it!!

Storm and Streak have made it back!!

Storm and Streak have made it back!!


What a great welcome back

What a great welcome back

Awwww

Awwww



I saw a little saying yesterday “what would you attempt to do if you knew you could not fail?”. It made me wonder what I would do. I am so glad the YouTube videos of roads in Russia, Kazakhstan, India and Myanmar didn’t put me off – they terrified me, the videos that is and I dreaded riding in those places. But the experience was different, they made me feel alive. The people we met, the numerous generous actions of strangers, the friends we made – worth absolutely everything. And the whole trip was so easy really. We were never threatened, never robbed and never felt unsafe. I am so glad my fears didn’t end building barriers to a most amazing experience.

We finish our trip being so much richer than when we left, with our brains full of memories, hearts bursting with the kindness of people the world over and looking forward to seeing family again. We will be coming out of our retirement when we return, having spent a lot more than planned because we didn’t camp as much as originally planned and stayed in better hotels. But one thing is certain, we have absolutely no regrets.

What next is a big question mark. The result of Anthony’s skin biopsy this week (and 4 stitches) will determine what we do in the short term. But we have changed our plans for the next few months, and forfeited travel bookings in Europe to return to Australia next month. It will be easier for Anthony to be in one place over the next few months at least while his treatment is fine tuned. Sadly, it does mean that we will not be able to catch with many friends and family members in Europe as we had planned to. But the last couple of months have been quite horrid for Anthony (without counting his crushed ankle) and he has been incredibly brave to continue as he has. It is more than time to concentrate wholly on his health now.

We are grateful to you too, our followers, for your support during our trip – if we hadn’t written the blog, for you initially, if you hadn’t let us know you were following us, commented and encouraged us for more posts, it would have been easy, tempting even, to stop writing and we would have had no way of remembering all we have seen and done and the names of the wonderful people we have met along the way. After some months, we ended up writing the blog for ourselves too. So, so long, and thanks for all the memories…..

Anne for the 2SlowSpeeds

Leaving Montréal

We arrive in Montréal a day earlier than originally planned so we make the most of it to go and find out where we need to be to ship the bikes. It is Labour day Monday, the roads are quiet and the industrial areas deserted. The first building at the 2200 address seems to be offices only so we ride on. Oh, a bike, another overlander! We ride over. There are 3 people. We ask if they are shipping with Air Canada and we mention we were finding out where we were expected to go the next day. One of them, the non biker asks our name: he just sent Anthony an email a few minutes ago about our shipment. He’s the one Anthony has been dealing with regarding the dangerous good clearance exercise tomorrow. What amazing timing!!! Once again! The area is deserted apart from those 3 and we arrive just at the right time, just before the bike was being ridden into the building for weighing, out of sight. We set a time for tomorrow and get back to our hotel room to repack which includes going through all our liquids, and removing a few ‘dangerous’ items such as any glue of any kind, including the minute tyre repair tube of glue, our tent repair glue and our WD-40 spray. A good time to throw out any old medication, find a few things that need throwing out like the squashed tube of cream that’s leaked out over a few other things (thank goodness for zip lock bags or the mess would have been worse!), clean up and repack. We keep to one side some items we are not sure about.

About to drop Streak and Storm off at Air Canada Cargo - our North American leg complete

About to drop Streak and Storm off at Air Canada Cargo – our North American leg complete


Time to weigh the packed Streak

Time to weigh the packed Streak


First we weigh the bikes. 270kgs each, exactly. I bet Anthony wishes his bike had been as light as 270kgs during our travels! We reckon his was 20kgs heavier than mine, especially when he carried extra water and fuel. This weight doesn’t include the small pack we each have with a few changes of clothes, shoes and toiletries for the next few days.

Anthony removed the fuel container cap to let all the fumes out

Anthony removed the fuel container cap to let all the fumes out

Our dangerous goods check is very quick and painless: we tell the guy what we have removed such as the helmet bluetooth units (because of the lithium batteries) and tar remover spray and show him all the items we weren’t sure about: the brake fluid is fine, other tubes of glue he doesn’t like but we may be able to take them as part of our hand luggage. Dangerous goods check complete, time to pay for the service. Next is some security check. Pity the airport security guy has a bad attitude problem but lucky we decided go back to the bikes and I repack the lump of the first pannier he’d “repacked” to find out he had simply thrown everything back, the box of bits and pieces upside down, and even Anthony’s 60th birthday Zippo lighter from Myanmar out of it’s box and the pannier was barely closed – everything inside would have got wet had it rained on it somewhere. Slack. Our Air Canada contact Mario was very apologetic and suggests we can X-ray the other 3 panniers and camping bags without the bad attitude guy having to open them. Great idea. And no repacking necessary.

An hour after we first arrived, invoice paid, Streak and Storm in the hands of Air Canada Cargo and we are all done. This is the quickest, simplest and cheapest shipping process we’ve had on our whole trip. Thank you Air Canada. Here’s hoping collecting the bikes at Heathrow in a couple of days’ time is as easy…

A little lump in our throats, we say goodbye to our trusted bikes, until our last little leg from Heathrow to Verwood later this week.

Now we have a couple of days to fill – that’s how we feel, it’s odd. We wish we could leave now. Anthony did check – the cost of changing our flights is ridiculous. We go into the city, to the Old Montreal, which we last visited in 1985. There are a couple of Inuit art galleries I want to visit with stone sculptures and prints. Most of what we see seems to be the same – so many dancing bears, of various sizes. Oh dear… I am not feeling it. Is it me or is it the artwork? Probably both. We walk through the streets, full of tourist shops with the same goods, then onto the port. It all feels soulless. Nothing like the small South American old towns, that were always buzzing with life and fascinating history. I did like the look of this small restaurant – pity their menu wasn’t more inspiring – and the South American trio playing at the top of the pedestrian area – thank you for bringing a bit of life to the area!

Jardin Nelson in Montréal

Jardin Nelson in Montréal

A haircut the next day for both of us (Anthony can stop telling me I have the same booffy hairstyle as Trump now, cheek!), some blogging, note taking, bill paying and general administrative stuff. We are ready for our flight back to the UK. Think of us Saturday around 10am UK time, when we are planning on getting back to Anthony’s sister Tansy in Verwood, where we started our trip from nearly 15 months ago. That will mark the official end of our round the world on motorcycles tour… The butterflies of excitement are starting to fly around at the thought!! Stay tuned, our wonderful followers and supporters, for a final blog post…

– Anne

Last days of summer

New York recedes into the haze as we head up I95 towards Connecticut to meet David and Elaine. We met them in Durango, Colorado, a couple of months ago, while they were riding their Harley Davidson and invited us to visit them when we passed through New York. They kindly wait for us, just off I95 and we follow them to their lovely house, after riding some twists and turns between New York and Connecticut. A huge lunch, with other family members follows, it is great to catch up again.

Following David through Greenwich to their home for lunch

Following David through Greenwich to their home for lunch

Elaine and David in  Greenwich, Connecticut

Elaine and David in Greenwich, Connecticut


David showing us our way back to the main road

David showing us our way back to the main road

With Montreal as our final destination for shipping the motorbikes back to our starting point in England and 6 days to get there, we have decided that our route will be shaped by completing a visit to the remaining states in the USA we have not visited since we first came here in 1980. Namely Rhode Island, Maine, and for me, New Hampshire. This will take us in a loop through New England, but we must remember we need to be out of the USA by the 6th of September, 90 days after we arrived in Texas and the end of our visa, or we become illegals and may get on Donald Trumps’ radar. Amazing how Donald Trump has so dominated the airwaves here in the US, that he now starts to do the same in our blog. No more Trump references from me.

While summer is supposed to be winding down to be replaced by the Fall, we are subject to 90 degree fahrenheit, 32 degree celsius days. We are not complaining, the weather forecast for the remainder of our time in North America is dry sunny weather. These are lazy end of summer days as both our journey and the summer come to an end, we feel we are winding down. Such mixed thoughts, no more riding, great to see family and friends again in Europe, what will we do next, how will our followers survive without their regular fix? We mull these questions over in our minds as we ride, no answers yet, but it will all work itself out.

New England, the town names say it all; Norwich, Coventry, Bristol, Portsmouth we see signs for familiar towns we know, but jumbled up in a manner we do not recognise. I guess someone from here would say the same thing about town locations in the UK.

First stop on our loop is Mystic, a small seaport in the State of Connecticut and home to Mystic Seaport: The Museum of America and the Sea. This museum was founded in 1929 as has developed over time into America’s largest nautical museum which recreates the era from the 19th century of wooden sailing ships. The village has a number of operational workshops and other cleverly constructed historic buildings housing various museums. The inclusion of a working dockyard for the repair of wooden ships which one is allowed to wander in freely adds to the interest.

Mystic Seaport, Connecticut

Mystic Seaport, Connecticut


Lumberyard at Mystic Seaport

Lumberyard at Mystic Seaport


Annie, a sandbagger sloop built in 1880

Annie, a sandbagger sloop built in 1880


We spent time on the Charles W. Morgan, the last surviving wooden whaling ship in the world that has been fully restored, watching a reenactment of how they launched the small boats that undertook whale hunting. The recreations of working life add another dimension to this museum. Well worth the time we spent here.
Enjoying time on the Charles W Morgan at Mystic Seaport

Enjoying time on the Charles W Morgan at Mystic Seaport


Buzzards Bay lift bridge over the Cape Cod canal

Buzzards Bay lift bridge over the Cape Cod canal


West Yarmouth on Cape Cod is as far east as we will travel in the USA. To stand at the edge of the Atlantic ocean staring east towards Europe is a great feeling knowing how much we have covered to get here. We try to test the waters temperature and keep our feet dry, but alas we have as much luck as King Canute did all those centuries ago.
West Yarmouth, Massachusetts

West Yarmouth, Massachusetts


Woohoo, we've made it to the Atlantic

Woohoo, we’ve made it to the Atlantic


Lobsters and Lighthouses, we are in Maine, all 50 States in the bag, only taken 35 years to get to every one. Along the seashore at York Beach to Nubble Lighthouse and Fox’s Lobster House restaurant which has been serving lobsters boiled the “old fashioned way” in their lobster pound since opening in 1966. Had to try and they were great!
Boiled lobster at Fox Lobster, Cape Neddick Nubble, Maine

Boiled lobster at Fox Lobster, Cape Neddick Nubble, Maine


At York harbour, Maine

At York harbour, Maine


Coffee and Concord, state capital of New Hampshire, we meet locals Mike and Joe. Over the past few weeks, we have often spent more time chatting to locals than we have riding. Here, we first meet Joe, the electrician helping his sister-in-law Buffy. On our return from coffee, we Meet Mike the journalist near our bikes. Joe comes out and jokes about us still being here, we introduce the 2 locals to each other and chat some more, about politics. It was lovely to look back in our mirrors as we left and still see them chatting to each other. We have made connections, and it is great to connect other people. On to New London in Vermont for lunch, then Montpelier state capital of Vermont. Each town linked by the rolling forests. So many shades and hues of green, punctuated by yellow signs warning of bears, moose, deer and turtles crossing. Turtles crossing? Yes as you approach lake Champlain, its turtles. I hope I could at least avoid those, not sure about the larger animals, but luckily our guardian angels have kept them out of our way on this journey.

Montpellier capitol, Vermont

Montpellier capitol, Vermont

Our UK number plates attract the interest of Tom, who invites us to join him and his wife Elaine for dinner. We spend our last night in the USA being taken out, a great way to end this portion of the trip and again shows kindness of strangers we have seen all throughout our journey. It confirms our belief that the world is mostly filled with good people.

On a ferry  crossing from Vermont to New York

On a ferry crossing from Vermont to New York


Karen and Tom

Karen and Tom


Over the border to Canada, our 34th country on the trip, and the quickest border crossing on our entire journey, we are almost finished. Riding through Quebec towards Montreal, we are almost done.

– Anthony