Barents to Baltic

Nordkaap, the most northerly point in Europe that one can easily access by road and a magnet for adventure motorcyclists heading to this part of Norway. Sadly we will not be able to join those other intrepid riders’ celebrations on the culmination or start of their journeys as we are in the comfort of four wheels.

Awaking in Honningsvåg, we are again blessed with better weather than forecast. Glimpses of blue sky and no rain as opposed to the grim cloud and rain all day on the app. A leisurely breakfast is interrupted by the blast of an arriving cruise ship horn, masses of tourists with the same destination as us: Nordkapp. Swiftly to the car and out of town heading across Magerøya Island. While appearing barren without a single tree to be seen, the landscape abounds with grasses, lichens and mosses in a carpet of woven greens, browns and reds. Climbing higher, we see Skipsfjorden and Tufjorden, both fjords, long fingers of water that have provided safe havens for ships in time of storms.

Looking west from Nordkaap
Perfectly camouflaged reindeer

Standing near the Nordkapp Globus monument looking out over the calm Barents Sea, our timing could not be better: blue skies and sunshine – our luck continues. The obligatory photos are taken at the monument with the visitors giving each other time to get that memorable photo. Mist then envelops the building behind us and out of the mist, the cruise ship hordes eerily appear. Time to depart.

At the Globus looking over the Barents Sea
Tourists in the mist at Nordkaap.

We return via the small fishing village of Skarsvåg. Here reindeer do wander the streets, a single coffee shop is open and we are the only visitors. The summer season is over and tourist related facilities are closing or have closed. Our hotel’s restaurant had closed for the season the night before we arrived.

“Yes dear” more rein-dear.
Fishing trawler in Skarsvåg

One thing we have noticed, both in the open areas and forests away from the coast, is the absence of bird song – always very quiet. I do not know if it is the time of year or that few birds live this far north.

To leave Magerøya Island, one travels through a seven kilometre long tunnel that descends for three kilometres from each entrance at an angle of 9-10%. I will let you do the math on how deep that is. I am always watching for leaks! A sign warns of “Fog in Tunnel” and they are correct. Quite weird but I am sure there is science to explain that.

“Fog in tunnel”, the sign was correct.

The road follows the shoreline of Norway’s fourth longest fiord, the Porsanger, which stretches for 123 km. / 76 ml. And it takes over an hour driving to leave the fiord and the Barents sea behind. The next sea we see, will be the Baltic, hence the title.

Very smart large bin to avoid littering
Autumnal colours in the far north

Anne has never visited Sweden and is one country behind me as I snuck in Qatar, which Anne had previously visited, on the way to Europe in April. Our route today allowed a crossing into Sweden for a new minutes on Swedish soil, so we are all square again. ( it does not count says Anne).

Anne’s first foray into Sweden.
View of Finland from Sweden

Overnight near the ski resort of Levi where we see last year’s ski slope snow piled up under white covers and will be used to form the foundation for this season’s ski slopes. This helps form a good base for the first snowfall of the season. I had read about this phenomenon but never seen it. Amazing how so much snow can last for the whole summer.

Ski run base all ready for the new season

At dinner as usual we see that many meals in Finland are both Lactose and Gluten Free, usually signified by an “L” & “G” on the description. Great for both of us.

Back to Rovaniemi the next morning where we started journey by road to the North. The night sleeper takes us back to Helsinki, but not quite as comfortably as I had hoped. I am looking forward to a good long massage when we get to Thailand.

We are upstairs on this train.
Our train back to Helsinki courtesy of Santa
Our luxury overnight cabin with snacks and single malt whisky
Our train’s silhouette as the sun goes down.
Skidoo route this way
Helsinki train station – with only the Ukrainian flag flying

An early arrival sees us at our Hilton Hotel, thanks to Diamond status, we are able check into our room by 7:30am! Membership of Hilton Honors does pay dividends.

We spend the morning as it rained sorting the contents of the four suitcases, three of which handily stayed at the hotel during our travels. A last trip in the afternoon to central Helsinki saw us wander amongst the food and produce stalls at the waterfront. One stall-holder kindly spent time explaining the different berries and mushrooms and how to use them in cooking even though we could purchase nothing. A last glimpse at the Baltic sea and we have completed Barents to Baltic.

Roberts Coffee in a converted Art Deco Bank building on Pohjoisesplanadi Helsinki
Art Deco work on Pohjoisesplanadi Helsinki
This fresh grilled fish outdoor stall looked delicious
Colourful street stall on Market Square Helsinki

Our time in Finland has come to an end. We have enjoyed our time immensely, seen and done more than we expected. We would like to return in winter to see the transformation the snow makes, but that will have to wait for another time. From the tranquility of the Finnish countryside, we are heading to the metropolis of Bangkok where the temperature will double and the sounds, smells and tastes of Asia will assail us – should be great.

– Anthony

8 comments on “Barents to Baltic

  1. Glad you enjoyed yourself so much. Looks like a beautiful country and yes, I am sure winter would transform it into a wonderland. Homeward bound????

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