Constantine, often referred to as the “City of Bridges”, connecting the various hills, valleys and ravines which also means steep meandering roads, and stunning views, certainly did not disappoint!!! On so many levels.

Founded by the Phoenicians in 203BC, Constantine was the capital of the Numidian Kingdom (a Berber empire) under the name Cirta.  It was totally destroyed by Maxentius in 311CE then shortly thereafter rebuilt by Roman Emperor Constantine the Great in 313 CE, who named it after himself.  

After an eventful arrival (long traffic jam down the steepest slippery road  where 3 official lanes become 6 with everyone jockeying to get ahead) and crazy roundabout traffic, Streak and Storm are staying stored for the next couple of days!! 

First on my agenda is the Cirta Museum with more Roman treasures.

Anthony is running low on gluten free crackers/bread and we have used up all our tins of tuna and sardines so time to replenish.   I find a supermarket that sells gluten free foods 2.5kms away from our hotel so we decide to walk there.  We finally get away from the bustle of Constantine with its uneven broken pavements,  into the quieter residential suburbs past some stunning old houses and STEPS of course.  

Canstantine is afterall built on a rocky cliff face. We didn’t expect to come across a modern looking coffee shop and decide to walk in.  Every single head turns to look at us as we enter. They are all women.  One table left just for us.  With pastries calling my name. Sadly nothing for Anthony. 

We get to the supermarket – closed. The small store opposite tells us it’s been closed for 3 years!   Google doesn’t always have the latest information. As he tries to explain where the nearest supermarket is, a car stops, asks us if he can help and offers to take us. And there started a new friendship. We ended up spending 4 hours with Nourrédine and later his wife Nina (who was busy earlier which enabled him to drive us to the hypermarket,  then the Grand Mosque). As we get literally 100m from our hotel, Nina decides we need to hop out of the car to go to a rose water fair where I try rose and orange water at every stand while Nourrédine drove around the crazy roundabout!!  Our hotel is literally across the road but Nina calls him to collect us to drive us to the Ahmed Bey Palace asap as it is due to close soon. It just closed when we got there but is open tomorrow which is great news.  Back in the car to take us to see the suspension bridge, then we drive around the copper artisan area, then we stop off at an amazing cake shop.  We invited them to have a tea or cold drink somewhere but they instead invite is to their home, 35kms away.   Realising how tired Anthony was they then offered to invite us to Friday lunch instead.  

Friday morning we return to the Palace for a visit.

Friday is family day. Towns and cities are dead on a Friday because everyone is home with their families. So to be invited to their home on a Friday was very special. Nourrédine came to collect us while Nina was preparing a special gluten free/dairy free meal for us.   What a beautiful table and delicious meal.   We were totally spoiled with fresh salads, grilled sardines and tuna, steamed veggies and amazing juice and fresh fruit.   The conversation was very fluid and interesting, mostly in French with some English with their daughter-in-law who spoke perfect English.  

Time flew by, we all wished we’d had more time together, so we exchanged emails and connected on social media. What a beautiful family we will want to remain in contact with. 

Saturday morning we decide to leave earlyish to beat the traffic.  We rode the stunning cliff cutting we had driven with Nourrédine and Nina the other day. What a view. The otherside of the suspension bridge took is down various narrow, one way streets – one wrong turn and I tell Anthony to cross the pavement to the other side.  The trick is to keep moving and get out of situations. 

Annaba’s hotel secure parking turns out to be on the pavement near the hotel with a security guard 24/24!!  Worked fine but we did feel bad for the poor guy seeing him there at 3am still watching Streak and Storm. 

After a great lunch, it’s time to get a bit of exercise and explore the old city.   I eye a tiny coffee shop but as usual, it is full of men smoking. As we are just about to continue on our way, two men call us in, come in, sit down.  As usual in Algeria, we get the best welcome and smiles. And great coffee. We continue our walk and I notice the most deliciously caramelised palmiers!!!  (They’re French palm tree leaf shaped puff pastry coated with sugar – they’re delicious). Could not resist to buy one.  Only one?  Not two?  No, only one…. 5’ later, I could not resist. Yes, one more would be great, it was too good. Anthony returns to the shop and gets me … 2 more!!!

While in Algeria, I never hid my French origins and invariably, whenever we’ve had the opportunity to have longer conversations than niceties, the long lasting hurt from the French colonial days is always brought up. Whether it is the fact that their father or grandfather died of torture in 1954, or had their past eradicated by being given new French names or that the stunning building were occupied by the French army or colonialists. The deep feeling of hurt, grief and displacement is long lasting and still felt, especially as there was never an apology – it often reminded me of our Stolen Generation.  It is heartbreaking to hear first hand of this hurt and know that so few people experience the genuine warm welcome Algerians we have received from so many in our short time in Algeria due to incorrect media bias. 

Our last night in Algeria could not have been more perfect. We met Laidi and Anis, a surgeon and a pharmacist,  in a smoke filled cafe showing the Paris Saint-Germain- Inter-Milan European Cup Final. We spent hours chatting and being once again spoilt by their generosity.   We could not pay for a thing.  What a night!  

Our trip to Algeria would not have been anywhere near as enjoyable and memorable had it not been for the generous and welcoming Algerians we met.   Thank you to all of you.  We have left a bit of our hearts in Algeria thanks to you. 

We leave in the morning for the Oum T’Boul border crossing into Tunisia.

Anne