Samarkand – a silent stroll

Words cannot describe the beauty of the treasures we have had the privilege to visit, the serenity of the architecture and madrasahs and the warmth of Uzbeks, so I hope you enjoy this silent stroll.

– Anne

Amir Temur Mausoleum, which Amir Temur built for his favourite grandson Muhammad Sultan who suddenly died in 1403, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Amir Temur Mausoleum, which Amir Temur built for his favourite grandson Muhammad Sultan who suddenly died in 1403, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Amir Temur mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Amir Temur mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Amir Temur mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan- deep niches and muqarnas decorations

Amir Temur mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan- deep niches and muqarnas decorations


Amir Temur, Tamerlane,  mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan - Amir Temur's tomb is in the centre - there is much interesting folklore around this solid block of dark green jade tomb stone (which appears black without direct sunlight on it).  Amir Temur died in 1405.

Amir Temur, Tamerlane, mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan – Amir Temur’s tomb is in the centre – there is much interesting folklore around this solid block of dark green jade tomb stone (which appears black without direct sunlight on it). Amir Temur died in 1405.

Amir Temur mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan - stunning gold leaf on silk paper adorns the inside of the mausoleum, the dome of bricks is 15m in diameter and 12.5m deep

Amir Temur mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan – stunning gold leaf on silk paper adorns the inside of the mausoleum, the dome of bricks is 15m in diameter and 12.5m deep

A tree trunk marks the burial site of a sufi - Amir Timur's teacher, Sufi Sayyid Baraka, who died the same year as his favourite grandson in 1403

A tree trunk marks the burial site of a sufi – Amir Timur’s teacher, Sufi Sayyid Baraka, who died the same year as his favourite grandson in 1403

Amir Temur, Tamerlane, mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Amir Temur, Tamerlane, mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

The tiles on the right are 18 years old, the ones on the left 600 years old - and which are the brightest?!  Amir Temur Mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

The tiles on the right are 18 years old, the ones on the left 600 years old – and which are the brightest?! Amir Temur Mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

2SlowSpeeds in front of Amir Temur's mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

2SlowSpeeds in front of Amir Temur’s mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Our first view of the Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Our first view of the Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ruxshona, 20 year old with 2 year old child, Azida, 22, married doctor and Dilnoza, 22, engaged with whom we chatted for an hour on life, mixed marriage, education and travel

Ruxshona, 20 year old with 2 year old child, Azida, 22, married doctor and Dilnoza, 22, engaged with whom we chatted for an hour on life, mixed marriage, education and travel

The Registan, with from L to R, the Ulugh Beg Madrasah (1417-1420), the Tilya-Kori Madrasah (1646-1660) and the Sher-Dor Madrasah (1619-1636).  The public place in the middle was used for royal declarations and executions

The Registan, with from L to R, the Ulugh Beg Madrasah (1417-1420), the Tilya-Kori Madrasah (1646-1660) and the Sher-Dor Madrasah (1619-1636). The public place in the middle was used for royal declarations and executions

Uzbek women, near the Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Uzbek women, near the Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

We were invited to join this group of Uzbeks and Koreans as soon as we walked into a Korean restaurant in Samarkand - what a fun evening ensued - little did we know we'd see them again a couple of days later...

We were invited to join this group of Uzbeks and Koreans as soon as we walked into a Korean restaurant in Samarkand – what a fun evening ensued – little did we know we’d see them again a couple of days later…


Front of Sher-Dor madrasah,  Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Front of Sher-Dor madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Inside the Sher-Dor madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Inside the Sher-Dor madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Sher-Dor madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Sher-Dor madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan


Front of Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Front of Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Tilya-Kori madrasah arch, looking towards Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Tilya-Kori madrasah arch, looking towards Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Courtyard of the Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Courtyard of the Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Serene courtyard of the Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Serene courtyard of the Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Anthony enjoying the serenity of Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Anthony enjoying the serenity of Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Arch of the Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Arch of the Tilya-Kori madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan


Ceramic tiles inside Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ceramic tiles inside Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ceramic tiles inside Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ceramic tiles inside Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Old tile inside Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Old tile inside Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan: a school for higher education in secular science, including philosophy, mathematics, astronomy.  Under each arch were either lecture rooms or dormitories.

Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan: a school for higher education in secular science, including philosophy, mathematics, astronomy. Under each arch were either lecture rooms or dormitories.


Ceramic tiles inside Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ceramic tiles inside Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ceramic tiles inside Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ceramic tiles inside Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Uzbek family having lunch inside Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Uzbek family having lunch inside Ulugh-Beg madrasah, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan


Statue of Ulugh-Beg, 1394-1443, ruler, astronomer, mathematician and sultan, at his obdervatory, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Statue of Ulugh-Beg, 1394-1443, ruler, astronomer, mathematician and sultan, at his obdervatory, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ulugh-Beg museum at his observatory, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ulugh-Beg museum at his observatory, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

What remains of Ulugh-Beg's observatory - he determined the Earth's axial tilt as 23.52 degrees, which remained the most accurate measurement for hundreds of years.

What remains of Ulugh-Beg’s observatory – he determined the Earth’s axial tilt as 23.52 degrees, which remained the most accurate measurement for hundreds of years.

Double dome mausoleum, Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Double dome mausoleum, Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Inside the mausoleum dedicated to the wet nurse to Amir Temur's court, Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Inside the mausoleum dedicated to the wet nurse to Amir Temur’s court, Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

One of the most beautiful mausoleums at Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan, built in honour of Temur's sister Turkon and her daughter Shodi Mulk, Shahi-Zinda, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

One of the most beautiful mausoleums at Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan, built in honour of Temur’s sister Turkon and her daughter Shodi Mulk, Shahi-Zinda, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

One of the most beautiful mausoleums at Shahi-Zinda, Samarkand, Uzbekistan, built in honour of Temur's sister Turkon and her daughter Shodi Mulk, Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

One of the most beautiful mausoleums at Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan, built in honour of Temur’s sister Turkon and her daughter Shodi Mulk, Shahi-Zinda, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Built by Temur for his sister, Shirin Beka, Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Built by Temur for his sister, Shirin Beka, Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Shahi-Zinda ensemble, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Shahi-Zinda ensemble, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Shahi-Zinda ensemble, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Shahi-Zinda ensemble, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Gorgeous Uzbek lady - women especially have a mouthful of gold teeth

Gorgeous Uzbek lady – women especially have a mouthful of gold teeth

Shahi-Zinda ensemble, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Shahi-Zinda ensemble, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Carved glazed terracota, Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Carved glazed terracota, Shahi-Zinda necropolis, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Shahi-Zinda ensemble, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Shahi-Zinda ensemble, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Shahi-Zinda ensemble, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Shahi-Zinda ensemble, Samarkand, Uzbekistan


Gulnoza and baby Omar, behind Anthony and Aziza's kids Muqhbar and Raziza on either side of Anne, with Aziza's niece Sabina

Gulnoza and baby Omar behind Anthony and Aziza’s kids Muqhbar and Raziza on either side of Anne, with Aziza’s niece Sabina


After bumping into Aziza and Gulnoza again, we were invited to have dinner at Aziza's home and meet her family - such a beautiful family and overwhelmingly warm welcome

After bumping into Aziza and Gulnoza again, we were invited to have dinner at Aziza’s home and meet her family – such a beautiful family and overwhelmingly warm welcome

After dinner at Aziza's home, we are taken to an Uzbek wedding - it was quite ok to them for us to 'gatecrash' this wedding

After dinner at Aziza’s home, we are taken to an Uzbek wedding – it was quite ok to them for us to ‘gatecrash’ this wedding

Anthony is invited to the table of honour by the father of the bride whose wedding of 500 guests we were invited to gatecrash by our Uzbek friends

Anthony is invited to the table of honour by the father of the bride whose wedding of 500 guests we were invited to gatecrash by our Uzbek friends

Steps up one of Tilya-Kori minaret, courtesy of a guard at 7am

Steps up one of Tilya-Kori minaret, courtesy of a guard at 7am

View of Tilya-Kori dome from one of its minarets,  Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

View of Tilya-Kori dome from one of its minarets, Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Sher-Dor madrasah, seen from one of Kilya-Kori minarets, Registan. samarkanf, Uzbekistan

Sher-Dor madrasah, seen from one of Kilya-Kori minarets, Registan. samarkanf, Uzbekistan


Last view of the Registan, Samarkand, before returning to Tashkent, Uzbekistan to collect our Turkmen visas

Last view of the Registan, Samarkand, before returning to Tashkent, Uzbekistan to collect our Turkmen visas

12 comments on “Samarkand – a silent stroll

  1. You seem to be blessed with good fortune. Being able to meet so many friendly and welcoming people must make you wonder how wars are ever started !
    Keep on riding and writing. Phillip

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    • Yes, luck keeps following us for some reason. And we too have often wondered why wars ever started Phillip… Feeling the serenity of so many of these Islamic buildings here, and yet, today’s world is not so serene or tolerant…

      Like

  2. Wow Anne and Anthony, words indeed would not do justice to all that you are experiencing. The splendour of the Islamic architecture (surely Samarkand must have the best examples of this) and all the wonderful people you meet…. Enjoy this journey of a life time!!

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  3. Simply beautiful, what an absolute joy to look at the photographs from this amazing place. I have been to Uzbekistan but did not end up going to Samarkand, this is definitely on the must do list. Can’t wait to catch up with you again and listen to the stories.

    Like

    • It is amazing how much we enjoy preparing the posts as we know we now have a few loyal followers and it makes it all worthwhile. Plus it feels like we’re talking to you. Thank you so much. Anne xx

      Like

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