A day in Casper, Wyoming

I have always believed things always work out perfectly in the end, for some unknown reason. Today was another example. We were all set to leave Casper this morning, we were fully packed, finally decided what route we would take towards the Black Hills today and ready to put on our jackets when Anthony said his crooked neck was still too sore and maybe we should stay put another day. Of course. Perfect in fact as that way, we could get up early tomorrow and go and see the 30 or so hot air balloons take off at 6am: as we got up this morning and opened the curtains, we were graced with a stunning sky full of hot air balloons drifting past in the distance. Little did we know what an awesome day we were going to have!!!

It all started over breakfast, when the hotel receptionist brings us a map of the Black Hills which Doug, a Texan bike rider whom we chatted with last night, has left us so that we don’t miss any of the amazing roads awaiting us, each road colour coded, distances and special sightseeing sites marked. So useful!! How kind. And we have no way of thanking him.

We decide to go for a bit of walk as it will loosen Anthony’s muscles. Quick change out of our riding pants and boots and into our ‘town clothes’ and shoes and off we go. We haven’t looked at a local map but Anthony has a vague idea of where he’d like to head. After about 20′ we get to this:

No pedestrians allowed beyond this point in Casper

No pedestrians allowed beyond this point in Casper

We stand there a short while contemplating our options, can we climb down the bank? There is a fence along the railway line. Eventually, we turn back when a massive ute/pick up slows up and stops beside us: “you want a lift across the bridge? Hop in the back.” Wow, how did he know?! We laugh at our luck, it feels strange as we haven’t done this since our backpacking days decades ago. Australia has way too many laws including not allowing people to travel in the back of utes this way. He drops us off on the other side, tells us about a walking track along the river and how we can return to the other side further down and we watch him leave: he returns the way we came from. He must have spotted us as he was heading in the opposite direction, did a U turn to pick us up and eventually went back on his way. Another kind person.

We haven't travelled in the back of a ute for decades

We haven’t travelled in the back of a ute for decades

It is a lovely walk along the North Platte river. The city council has obviously spent a lot of money on this for the locals. There are several sculptures, picnic spots, benches, maps.

Finding Silver statue in the middle of the Platte river in Casper

“Finding Silver statue in the middle of the Platte river in Casper

Sculptures along the walking-cycling path in Casper

Sculptures along the walking-cycling path in Casper

Fence around the bank - must be big in the mining community

Fence around the bank – must be big in the mining community


Oil was found near Casper in 1851 and was mixed with flour  sold to westwards bound pioneers as axle grease

Oil was found near Casper in 1851 and was mixed with flour sold to westwards bound pioneers as axle grease

We spot a mini golf. That would be fun! We go in but the staff are all busy cleaning the place. It does not open for another 40′ but they let us in anyway. Fantastic. We had fun. Anthony won by a mile including a hole in one.

Hole in 1 at Casper's mini golf

Hole in 1 at Casper’s mini golf

We ended up being out and walking for over 2 hours – a good work out. Time for a rest back in the room and eventually we go out again for a bite to eat. As we walk down to McDonald (yes, there are times when you have to take what’s available but luckily they now make a delicious healthy Asian salad), a long distance cyclist goes past. I notice his safety jacket says Marseilles. “vous êtes Français?” I call out. He turns around and stop besides us. Jean is from Marseilles and is traveling from the Atlantic to the Pacific. He turns 76 in November!!!!

Jean from Marseilles is cycling from the Atlantic to Pacific coasts

Jean from Marseilles is cycling from the Atlantic to Pacific coasts


Amongst many other trips, he travelled around the world on a bicycle back in 2005. How inspiring. And what a character. We told you we were slow!!!! He tells us that he is following the American pioneers’ trails and is heading to Independence rock tomorrow. I remember we rode right past it on our way to Casper but didn’t know the significance of it. Pioneers used to scratch their name and date onto the rock as a way of letting other family members know they were at that point and when they came through. It is important for Jean to scratch his name into that rock for his great grand children. Stopping at that point was out of the question anyway for us as it was so windy. He is looking for a hotel and asks us where we’re staying. That is too expensive for him. Anthony suggests to me that we could pay for a room for him at our hotel – of course. Jean is touched by Anthony’s offer but turns it down. He does not need money, he just doesn’t like to spend that much on accommodation. We tell him that many people have been kind to us and it is our pleasure to do something for him. But no, he won’t have it. It is now pouring. We eventually say goodbye and tell him we’re going to McDonald’s for lunch. As we sit down with our lunch at McDonald and Jean turns up. He wanted to chat with us some more. I am enjoying chatting in French. Anthony leaves us and we carry on chatting for another hour. The offer is still open I tell him but he says that the offer is as good as if he took it up. What a great, inspiring man. I hope we manage to see him again when we return to France.

Jean inspired me to go to the local Museum on historic trails next, while Anthony rests. Jean was cycling across the US, following those trails – out of historic interest but also because they avoided the mountains! National Historic Trails are designated to protect the remains of significant overland or water routes to reflect the history of the US pioneers. There 19 such trails across the country, 4 of which come through Casper, including the Poney Express trail.

Represents the Poney Express trail

Represents the Poney Express trail


I crossed the North Platte river in this carriage (in the museum!)

I crossed the North Platte river in this carriage (in the museum!)


Casper, from the National Historic Trails museum

Casper, from the National Historic Trails museum

It is wonderful how people can touch you, at the most unexpected time. And you can have so many amazing experiences in just the space of a day.

– Anne

Byebye Boulder

Time to say goodbye to Marshall and Ali after a wonderful stay where they thoroughly spoilt us. We take Marshall’s recommendation and ride the Peak to Peak road, following the Boulder Creek to Nederland before heading north to Estes Park. A perfect biking road, with gentle, nearly rhythmic left then right turns. We ride through Ward, a community of hippies, which looks more like a massive junkyard. Interestingly, whereas most of Colorado views Boulder as too liberal, too different and too weird, that is how the residents of Boulder view the residents of Ward!! We stop in Estes Park for a hot coffee and tea to warm up, and add another layer – it is nippy and will get even colder as we climb into the Rocky Mountain National Park next. It goes down to 7 degrees celcius! We even get our winter gloves out.

Peak to Peak road sign

Peak to Peak road sign

On our way to Estes Park

On our way to Estes Park


On our way to Estes Park

On our way to Estes Park


Wow, to think we visited this park back in 1980 – we had no idea then that we would be back 35 years later on bikes!! We thought it would be fun to get a photo at the same spot as the one we got of ourselves back then but thank goodness, Anthony suggested we had walked far enough and not to bother going all the way: at 3700m high, walking uphill is much tougher for both of us than it was in 1980 – and it was hard enough back then! We walked back to the bikes, ready to explore more of this stunning park. Ooops, I am feeling weird. Pull over quick – crouch down, breathe, wait, head down. We need to get down, as soon as possible. I am ok to go on – it won’t be long before we loose altitude. It is a battle for me. Concentrate, breathe slowly, Anthony, talk to me, about anything! Anthony is calming. Four cars in front me suddenly slow down and stop in the middle of the road: stupid drivers, move on, just because they want to take a stupid photo of a stupid male deer, a perfect picture postcard stupid photo. My legs are shaky but I know that staying up and wait for the feeling to pass is not an option and as soon as we move again, the momentum of the bike will keep me up. I am fighting with my head as I know what’s going on, especially when I caught myself about to say to Anthony to carry on and just leave me here. Eventually, the cars move on and after a final extra short climb, it is downhill all the way. Anthony reads out the altitude we have reached every few hundred feet. It is not long before I start feeling better. What a pity I didn’t get a photo of that amazing elk (thanks Karen), looking straight at me, huge perfect antlers against the deep blue sky!! The picture is imprinted in my mind though. And Anthony captured it on the video!!
Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park wildflowers

Rocky Mountain National Park wildflowers


Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park

From there, we went to Granby, Kremmling and stopped in Steamboat for the night as there was a massive storm ahead of which we were not going to be able to avoid and we didn’t feel like getting wet. We have ridden through a few interesting places today, witnessing some topical aspects of Colorado and US politics Such as the distinctive smell of cannabis, whose sale for recreational use was legalised early 2014 in Colorado. And such as a pickup (ute), driving with a massive Confederate flag flying high above its canopy. Since the recent massacre at a church in Charleston, South Carolina, there has been a lot of debate about the use of the Confederate flag and whether it represents pride or racism. While the US flag flew at half mast atop the state Capitol, the Confederate wasn’t. There was outrage. But things are not that simple as is often the case. The height of the Confederate flag was regulated by law, it had to fly at 30 feet, there was no pulley system to lower it and unless the lawmakers voted to have it removed, it had to stay where it was!! That was until a week ago when legislation was passed to have it removed.

We stop for lunch at a tiny road side restaurant, the Chuck Wagon Restaurant, in Granby. The poor waitress is completely rushed off her feet, being the only waitress there. The green chili burrito is delicious. On our way out, we chat with a great group of 3 ‘mature’ Harley riders. Real salt of the earth characters, with eyes that tell me they must have so many fabulous stories and experiences. Unfortunately, they are riding in the opposite direction to us.

Between Granby and Kremmling

Between Granby and Kremmling


Once again, we manage to dodge a couple of storms but as we arrive into Steamboat,we realise we would be heading straight into the next one. Time to stop as we don’t feel like getting wet and we could do with a rest. We find a nice little hotel on the main road, the Nordic Lodge, run by a lovely young Polish couple. We have been to Steamboat before but always to ski – we go for a lovely walk around town before find a place for dinner.
Just love those wildflowers

Just love those wildflowers

Managed to dodge this storm as we approach Steamboat

Managed to dodge this storm as we approach Steamboat


Steamboat

Steamboat

Steamboat ski slopes

Steamboat ski slopes

Outside a Steamboat bookstore

Outside a Steamboat bookstore


After a delicious breakfast (with real bread instead of the usual sweet American ‘bread’, quality jams, fresh fruit and good coffee), we load up streak and Storm with our overnight bags (we have got quite organised since we got to South America: we each have a day pack that lives in our top box which contains all we need for 5 days, including pillows, slippers, rain jackets, fleeces and snacks. Our walking shoes live in a side pouch of our panniers.

Thursday, we leave Steamboat under a bright blue sky. After riding along the river, through a final canyon, head north of Craig on Co13 and we are suddenly out in the open country. This country is vast!! It is incredible that while we are riding through flat land, we are still above 2000m/7000ft!! Time for a stop and a snack of fruit and nuts. We enjoy stopping, watching grasses blowing in the breeze, listening to the chirping birds. We stop again for lunch outside Rawlins next to a gas station we have just refueled. Once again, we chat to a group of Harley Davidson riders. We’ve enjoyed chatting to fellow riders, but we have found that, apart from a few exceptions, people who approach us for a chat are invariably riders themselves. And so far in the US, they have all been Harley riders. Apparently, HD sales represent 50% of large bike sales in the US. I would have thought it was more than that from what we have seen on the road.

Leaving Steamboat

Leaving Steamboat

Co13 north of Craig

Co13 north of Craig

New section of Co13

New section of Co13


It is windy most of the day. In places particularly windy, difficult and tiring to ride. Nothing like the scary gusts we experienced in South America luckily. We see signs warning of 35mph gusts on the outskirts of Casper but we got much stronger than that on the open road. Today has been pretty tiring with a combination of boring straight roads and strong side winds and we are ready to call it a day by the time we arrive in Casper.
US287 to Casper

US287 to Casper

Interesting rock formations along US287 to Casper

Interesting rock formations along US287 to Casper

US287 to Casper

US287 to Casper

US287 to Casper

US287 to Casper


Which way will head tomorrow?? Maybe towards Sturgis and the Black Hills before the big crowds hit Sturgis as a number of riders we have met recently have told us it is already getting busy in anticipation of the motorcycle rally’s 75th anniversary. There is a bit of shopping I want to do there…

– Anne

Fabulous Rides through Colourful Colorado – 2

Our departure from our Durango campsite is delayed by our meeting lovely Dave and Elaine from Conneticut whom Anthony met and spoke to on the way to the shower block this morning. They have dropped by our tent to give us their address should we need a place near New York or need anything. They are riding on a Harley and heading to Utah so we give them one of our Butler maps as we are not going to Utah on this trip.

Elaine and Dave at KOA campground

Elaine and Dave at KOA campground


We decide to visit Meza Verde National Park outside Cortez. Another Unesco World Heritage site!! This park, created by President T Roosevelt in 1906, occupies 52,485 acres and protects some of the best preserved Ancestral Puebloan archeological sites in the US, with more than 4,000 and 600 cliff dwellings. Check out wiki for more info. It takes an hour to get from the entrance to the first dwellings, so a minimum of 3 hours is required to drive around, more if you visit any of the cliff dwellings. Being peak season, it is too late for us to book a tour of the main dwellings. So we drive around and stop at the numerous viewing points and short walks. That alone was well worth it. As we get to the museum and look for a parking spot, we bump into Dave and Elaine, who kindly leave us their parking spot – perfect timing and fun to see them again!
Mesa Verde, Colorado

Mesa Verde, Colorado

Mesa Verde National Park

Mesa Verde National Park

Cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park

Cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park

Cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park

Cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park

Cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park

Cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park

The Balcony at Mesa Verde National Park

The Balcony at Mesa Verde National Park

The Palace at Mesa Verde National Park

The Palace at Mesa Verde National Park


An early stop and night in Cortez as they are predicting afternoon storms today and a clear day tomorrow. We have our now traditional tub of hummus, crackers and mango juice from Walmart for dinner.

Up early, we head out of Cortez on route 145 through Lizard Pass, another stunning ride – thank you Butler maps!!

Colorado wildflowers

Colorado wildflowers

Heading to Lizard Head Pass

Heading to Lizard Head Pass

San Juan National Forest along CO145

San Juan National Forest along CO145

Rico, Colorado

Rico, Colorado

Up to Lizard Head Pass

Up to Lizard Head Pass

Lizard Head Pass

Lizard Head Pass

Cahone, Colorado

Cahone, Colorado

Ophir, Colorado

Ophir, Colorado

Heading up to Telluride

Heading up to Telluride

We stop at Telluride for morning coffee.

Telluride, Colorado

Telluride, Colorado


Lunch back in Montrose, quick check of the radar and we decide to head for Paonia State Park on route 133 which has a number of campsites. We ended up riding more today than we have since being in Colorado, 365kms, but we are definitely travelling to ride at the moment. Colorado is a truly beautiful and colourful state and paradise for motorcyclists. The rushing creeks and rivers, lush green meadows, dotted with wildflowers. You couldn’t design more beautiful gardens or rockeries. Even the rock faces are dotted with delicate white, yellow, pink, red and blue flowers. And the Colorado smells take us back to our first visit here in 1980. The smell of pine, the white flowers. We are lucky we do not suffer from hay-fever. We decide to stop just north of McClure Pass where we spot a campground below us, by a creek. This is just the sort of place I wanted to find. We must just remember to be careful with our food and clothing in case of bears as the sign on our picnic table reminds us.

Along Leopard Creek on  CO62

Along Leopard Creek on CO62

San Juan Mountains from CO62

San Juan Mountains from CO62

San Juan Mountains from CO62

San Juan Mountains fromCOI62

Vinyards near Hotchkiss

Vinyards near Hotchkiss

Paonia State Park on CO133

Paonia State Park on CO133

Paonia State Park

Paonia State Park

Paonia State Park

Paonia State Park

McClure Pass

McClure Pass


Just over McClure Pass

Just over McClure Pass

Camping at McClure Pass

Camping at McClure Pass

Warning sign on our camping table, McClure Pass

Warning sign on our camping table, McClure Pass


The next day, 17th July, after a very cool night, we pack up and decide to go to Aspen for breakfast as this will take us towards yet another top motorcycling route: the Independence Pass!! It is the 2nd highest paved road in the state and provides 50kms/30miles of dramatic riding.
White River National Forest

White River National Forest

White River National Forest

White River National Forest

Independence Pass

Independence Pass

Independence Pass road, Colorado

Independence Pass road, Colorado

Just over Independence Pass, Colorado

Just over Independence Pass, Colorado

Independence Pass road, Colorado

Independence Pass road, Colorado

Independence Pass road, Colorado

Independence Pass road, Colorado

Independence Pass road, Colorado

Independence Pass road, Colorado

Independence Pass road, Colorado

Independence Pass road, Colorado

Independence Pass road, Colorado

Independence Pass road, Colorado

Twin Lakes, Colorado

Twin Lakes, Colorado

Looking towards Mt Elbert, Colorado

Looking towards Mt Elbert, Colorado


Colorado has not had a summer as wet as this year’s for a very long time. We have kept an eye on the weather radar and changed our timetable or route to avoid the storms on numerous occasions. Today is no exception and once again the 2slowspeeds luck is in. We decide to head north towards Leadville and onto route 91 instead of south towards Buena Vista. Hikers got struck by lightening and one person died that afternoon near Buena Vista…

We arrive at Marshall and Ali’s in Boulder on the afternoon of the 18th. We have known them for about 15 years and I have visited them numerous times while they lived in Chicago and I was exhibiting Aboriginal art in the US so it is great to see them again, in Boulder this time. Ali has remembered how much I love dried mango and had left a packet of it our room for me!! So sweet!!!! We are treated to fantastic meals, taken on a few drives around Boulder and up to Nederland and we enjoy our many lively discussions on all sorts of topics, including American politics of course. A wonderful time with great friends. And it is great to see two of their sons again too.

Boulder wildflowers

Boulder wildflowers

Boulder

Boulder

Container house in Boulder

Container house in Boulder

Container house in Boulder

Container house in Boulder

Chautauqua Park, Bolder

Chautauqua Park, Bolder

Marshall and Ali

Marshall and Ali

We take up Marshall and Ali’s generous offer of us staying longer than originally planned – it is expected to rain early today and we are behind with our blog so we make the most of this extra day to get up to date. We finish off the day with yet another wonderful barbecue on their terrace, spending a few hours reminiscing about our past and (not!) solving the world’s problems!! Wonderful company and generous hosts – thank you Ali and Marshall. We are off heading west again tomorrow morning – on the road again…..!!!

– Anne