Over the Alps and back

Anne takes us around Milan and we continue to head northward. When I looked at booking options for tonight 98% of sites were unavailable, probably because I am picky about price, parking etc. My choice ends up being in Bellano a small village on the eastern shores of Lake Como where we have booked an apartment overlooking the lake.

A few hairpin bends in the car, a couple of extra grey hairs and we arrive at our apartment. We have a fabulous view northwards looking down onto lake Como and the mountains beyond.

Sunset view over Lake Como from our apartment

Rather than face those grey hair inducing curves again we walk down to the village in light rain to stock up on food and drink for the next couple of days. Beautiful views, great to enjoy the fabulous scenery on foot both ways. Worth walking although a bit harder uphill for some reason.

Looking north up lake Como from above Bellano
So many steps in every village

The next day sees us taking a leisurely stroll along the waterfront in Bellano followed by lunch overlooking the lake, I could get used to this, then an afternoon siesta. This is the first day we have not driven since we picked up the hire car.

Steps, steps and more steps!
Church of Saints Nazaro and Celso, Bellano

On the way to a well deserved rest back at the apartment we went via the Orrido di Bellano. The Orrido, a well known local attraction, is a narrow natural gorge that not only provides a great walkthrough on an elevated platform but powers a small hydro power plant. Waterpower was previously used for metal making and cotton weaving.

The hydro power station in Bellano
Orrido gorge, Bellano
Orrido gorge, Bellano

While the idea of an Italian One Euro house sounds appealing, we had not factored in the material delivery by helicopter! As we prepared to depart we see a helicopter was ferrying material containers from a house high above us. Back to winning lotto then.

Helicopter moving building materials

Down the western side of the lake we see many motorcycles and although we are in the comfort of the air-conditioned car, we are still missing Streak and Storm. The weather is still hot so we would not miss that aspect of the travel especially the slow pace that is caused by the traffic congestion.

So many motorcycles of all sorts

As we leave Milan for Switzerland, we are now finally back on the original schedule we had planned with Streak and Storm. While we have missed both Sardinia and Corsica, we have enjoyed the places we had not planned to see.

We head up over the Great Saint Bernard Pass, the weather is kind to us and we have blue skies all the way. So many motorcycles of all different models and vintages. Not too many as to make riding uncomfortable, as we have heard on some passes, probably because the Great Saint Bernard does not have quite as many tight hairpin bends. Another time for us perhaps.

Great Saint-Bernard Pass
Enjoying the mountain air on the Great Saint-Bernard Pass
Great Saint-Bernard Pass

With accommodation limited because of the Montreux Jazz Festival, we have opted to camp and have a suitcase full of camping gear taken off Streak and Storm. A little unusual but the easiest way to transport by rail, car and air. We are based at Noville on the south side of Lake Geneva, (or Lac Léman, its official name, as it is known in France) opposite Montreux.

Camping for 3 nights for the Montreux festival
Camping in style!
Motorcyclists father and son Kristian and Kikkan
Great idea by father and son, map your journey as you go.

A short drive from the campsite we can catch a train from Villeneuve into Montreaux and avoid the hassle of parking there.

Train into Montreux – no high fences here

We take a day to head to Chamonix via the Col de la Forclaz. Anne has not been there for years and while Chamonix is a very pretty town, having coffee with Mt Blanc as the backdrop is well worth the drive.

Monument to doctor Michael Paccard, who with Jacques Balmat, was the first to ascend Mont Blanc in 1786
Mont Blanc from Chamonix

Spread along the waterfront the Montreux Jazz Festival has food-stalls, souvenirs, yes Anne has the t-shirt and hat, buskers and secondary stands with lesser known bands playing.

Anne bids you welcome
All tagged up for the Montreux Jazz Festival

Every year, I (Anne) make sure I do something special in honour of my brother. He and I used to talk for hours, shared similar tastes in music, had talked about going to Montreux for many years and had planned on going there together in the year 2000. But we didn’t make it. Life had become unbearable for him. While Anthony and I were still in Algeria, I checked who was playing on “his day” at Montreux this year – Neil Young! The 2nd joint LP we bought in 1972 was Neil Young’s Harvest and remained a favourite one of ours. It was a “no brainer” – Neil Young playing on the 6th July – a perfect way to remember my brother. I went all out and got the best tickets! Amazingly, the morning of the concert, on our walk to the city centre, I suddenly suggested we stop at this lakeside bar and have a drink – a few minutes later, this gorgeous ferry pulls up just in front of us, bearing the name of the street we grew up on!! What are the odds?! Of all the billions of possibilities!! As an Aboriginal elder friend of mine once told me, the spirits were talking to me. And yes, the concert was amazing.

A drink to Alan
😱🤩
An amazing spot for Neil Young’s concert
Neil Young concert, Montreux Jazz Festival
Neil Young concert, Montreux Jazz Festival
Neil Young in concert at Montreux

Back over the Alps again, this time over Simplon pass, sadly sans Streak and Storm but maybe one day we will ride the Alps on rejuvenated motorcycles.

Along the Simplon Pass
Along the Simplon Pass
Simplon Hospice commissioned by Napoleon in 1801

Back to Milan and a day in the city dodging the thunderstorms.

Milan Duomo, sans scadfolding

Hire car returned, bags checked in and after the security and immigration we are ready to go. Two hours later we arrive back in the UK. Our travels will take (have taken!) a break, as will this blog, while we focus on family and hopefully friends till the end of August.

– Anthony & Anne

P.S. Toilets, now there is a subject I do not recall covering before in this blog. Malpensa Airport Terminal 2 just before duty free looks more like a Hollywood red carpet location . Inside clean, smells good, jazz playing, hooks for bags at the urinals and hands free washing. 10 out of 10.