Back to Finland

With Christmas fast approaching, the opportunity to secure a favourable rating from Santa should not be overlooked. I understand that he lives outside Rovaniemi, located on the Arctic Circle in central Finland and since Anne has always wanted to spend time in the Finnish countryside, what a great chance to combine our two objectives.

With our not inconsiderable amount of baggage in tow, we head to the Heathrow Terminal 4 Hilton hotel, a quick drive to return the car to Hertz and back turns into a saga of epic proportions as an emergency closes Terminal 4 which in turn stops all transport. How will I get back to the Hilton Executive lounge before happy hour closes at 7pm? The answer is I did not but Anne had secured me a large glass of wine in advance. It turns out half the lounge knows of the Terminal 4 closure and my delay and want to hear my story. Not too exciting but I shared a taxi between terminals with a Maltese woman trying to catch a flight home.

Next morning, after a filling breakfast with great service, we realise after the effort of getting four suitcases, two carry on bags and a motorcycle helmet from the room to the lobby that taking the train between terminals is completely impractical. An excellent taxi ride with a local driver, who educated us about in-flight catering as he was previously a General Manager in that industry. Helsinki here we come.

Finnair A350-900 OH-LWD ready to take us to Helsinki.

We have a relaxing evening in the Executive lounge at the Helsinki Airport Hilton, then after an early breakfast, which starts there at 3am which is far to early for us, we board a local train to Helsinki Station

Helsinki Airport snippets from performances by the Finnish National Opera and Ballet’s repertoire

There we wait the IC 23 to take us to Oulu. Here we will transfer to a bus onward to Rovaniemi due to daytime track work. We have chosen seats on the double decker train above the buffet car. Included in our ticket is all you can drink tea, coffee and hot chocolate, yummmmm….

Ready to take passengers to Rovaniemi
Internet connectivity on Finland Trains, very helpful

The suburbs behind us, the landscape changes – patches of Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris), Norway spruce (Picea abies), and Silver Birch (Betula pendula), thanks Wikipedia. The Silver Birch is also Finland’s national tree.

Countryside north of Helsinki

The forests are interspersed with fields covered with golden stubble. The crops are harvested and the hay already safely stored for winter. Blue skies have accompanied us all the way. It is interesting, as a railway buff, that much of the lumber is removed by rail not road. We pass many sidings with railway wagons loaded with logs ready for shipment to distant factories.

Timber loaded and ready to travel south
Upper Premium section with individual swivel chairs

Comfortable seats, food delivered to you, glorious scenery, the only downside is that when you see an interesting track meandering into the distance you cannot stop and explore. Due to daytime track-work the last three hours to Rovaniemi are by bus. We are happy to arrive at our Airbnb and settle in. We stock up at the local supermarket while navigating unfamiliar product names.

A walk down to the waterfront and we find a group of five girls dressed in pink badge covered overalls. Hens night? Birthday Party? No, turns out they are third year art students, hence pink colour, from the local university manning a checkpoint for first year students undertaking an initiation course. We learn that Law students wear burgundy (dark red), grey for accountants perhaps? Just kidding. The overalls were introduced in the 1960’s.

University art students in customary pink overalls

Ever wondered what Rudolf and his friends did for the rest of the year? We can confirm they work as Uber drivers in Rovaniemi in the off season.

Santa’s reindeer hard at work in the off season.

When we arrived in Finland the weather forecast was for rain, rain and more rain where we’re heading. We had resigned ourselves to this, but so far, each morning the forecast changed and we have had mostly sunny days. We take advantage of this and we walk to the Arktikum Science Centre and Museum.

Along the river in Rovaniemi, different Lapland rock explained

Here we get hope to get a better understanding of the region we will be exploring for the next week. Worth the time to give us background on not only the environment but the culture and learn about some of those who made their lives here such as Hildur Larsson whose work and life are exhibited here.

Entrance to the Arktikum Museum
Inside the Arktikum Museum, Rovaniemi
Photographer Hildur Larsson (9/9/1882-3/5/1952)
By Hildur Larsso. Clever use of a steam locomotive in winter
Look up to see where a Polar Bear can reach!

Blue sky again the next day, what luck. While we have been to a number of northern climes before including Alaska, Siberia and Iceland we realise that we have never crossed the Arctic circle. Visiting Santa will mean that we finally cross over to the other side.

Anne inside the Arctic Circle for the first time

Meeting Santa in his home for the first time could be daunting, but Santa quickly puts you at ease. We chatted briefly about Queensland and did check that our nephews and my sister, who had asked, were on the good’ list, “Mostly” said Santa, so those three should have a good Christmas this year.

Time well spent with Santa with Christmas in sight.

It is amazing to think that half a million letters are sent to Santa each year at his official post office that is part of the Finnish Postal Service. The letters wend their way here with many different addresses from countries as diverse as Andorra and Zambia. No post code required for these letters!

Probably the only address that gets all its letters

After lunch we take a walk looking for a husky dog centre, sadly it does not open till November. I think we are between seasons, summer is waining, but winter not established yet. Probably a good time to take a break although there are many motor homes and a few coaches around.

Anne spies a walking track and we are off exploring. Autumn colours and textures abound as we walk through the forrest. A large map shows that tracks for walking and skidoo riding run for tens of kilometres in all directions. Must be amazing in winter just zooming along on the snow. Perhaps a winter visit?

Follow the Yellow Brick Road

Tomorrow we pick up a car and head further north, Reindeer, Polar Bears and Icebergs?, who knows what we will see.

– Anthony

PS. Recently, as many will be aware of, there has been some controversy over the incorporation of mushrooms, especially in dishes like beef wellington. Anne has recently taken an renewed interest in mushrooms. I have found the following photos on her phone, all taken here in Finland.

I also noted the following flavour of crisps for sale in Finland.

Probably not likely to be a big seller in Australia.

Should I have any concerns?

Exploring Tallinn

The weather is perfect, blue skies, calm seas. We are on the ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn. A short two hour crossing will see us in Estonia, the first time we have visited that country. We came close to Estonia in 2014 when we rode through Latvia en route to Russia. The route out of the harbour takes us past many low rocky outposts. Not somewhere to run aground – much less forgiving than the sands of Morton Bay where we live.

With both Finland and Estonia being in the EU, no border controls mean that you just walk off the ship, via a very long walkway and straight to the taxi line. Most people on the ferry have little or no luggage – we must really look like those tourists dragging the kitchen sink around with them. “Do not travel like them” they tell their children.

As we drive to our hotel, Anne says some of the architecture reminds her of St Petersburg, which I guess with the long history of Russian influence is not surprising. Russia had control of Estonia from the early 1700’s till the Russian revolution of 1917. Independence only lasted until 1939 following the signing of the German-Soviet Non-aggression Pact. Estonia has been independent again from the Soviet Union since 1991 and an EU member since 2004 which is celebrated by posters we see in the city. I also notice leaves on the trees in the park opposite the hotel which were not as evident in Helsinki. Seems just a short ferry ride can see a marked change in the advancement of Spring.

Spring is in the air, Tallinn

After a nice gluten free meal with wine specially organised in the Executive lounge at our Hilton hotel, we wait for the sunset over the view towards the old city, but no, it’s only 7pm with two hours and a half hours to sunset! A walk to the old city walls and our first exploration of the city beckons, so off we go. I do enjoy the long summer evenings, not something Queensland can offer.

Anthony’s executive lounge special meal

Our hotel is hosting a global Wikipedia Technical Conference. I have been wondering how far database indexing has come since I worked in the industry some 30 years ago. You can type just about anything into a search engine and it can be found. I did not ask, oh well probably just use the internet to get the answer or ask AI. A few fun facts: in 2012, Tallinn had the highest number of startup companies per person among all capitals and larger cities in Europe. Tallinn is the birthplace of many international high-technology companies, including Skype and Wise. The city is home to the headquarters of the European Union’s IT agency, and to the NATO Cyber Defence Centre of Excellence. world, and in 2022, Tallinn was listed among the top-10 “medium-sized European cities of the future”.

The weather is perfect, clear blue skies, crisp temperature but not as cold as it was last week when they got snow.

Lots of modern buildings outside Tallinn’s old town. Not sure about walking underneath!

As we walk towards the city centre, we soon notice a lot of Russian spoken by older people. According to the latest census, 27% of Estonians speak Russian – a legacy of history and multiple Soviet occupations – but this will change as Estonia started moving towards a unified Estonian language education system in December 2022, with a full transition finalised by 2033. While in a shop, we ask if the shopkeeper speaks English?, “русский” “russkiy” is the firm answer. There must have been a huge upheaval for older Russian speakers with the demise of the Soviet Union in 1991.

The origins of Tallinn date back to the 13th century, when a castle was built there by the crusading knights of the Teutonic Order. It developed as a major centre of the Hanseatic League, and its wealth is demonstrated by the opulence of the public buildings (the churches in particular) and the domestic architecture of the merchants’ houses, which have survived to a remarkable degree despite the ravages of fire and war in the intervening centuries. We even discover that the city has a Dominican connection as we spy a sign indicating that the building was once a Dominican Convent.

Dominican Monastery established 1246, Tallinn

Tallinn Old Town is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe and was listed as a Unesco World Heritage site in 1997.

Katariina Kaik – one of Tallinn’s oldest passages

We enter Tallinn Old Town through the impressive Viru Gate which was part of the Tallinn city wall built in the 14th century. This blog is so late, I will let the photos do the talking now:

Inside the Viru Gate, Tallinn
Must get a selfie in Tallinn

The Tallinn bus and tram pass has an interesting feature, a day pass runs from time of first use for 24 hours. Yesterday we acquired a tram/bus pass which allows us unlimited travel for 24 hours from the time of first use. As we start at 11am we can use it tomorrow before our ferry departure. What a good idea for tourists. We head to the Soviet Statue Graveyard by the Maarjamäe palace, behind the Estonian History Museum. All the Soviet heroes are there, minus their original pedestal, Lenin, Stalin – some are just decapitated bronze heads, some still have bodies. Each statue has a plaque with the history of the person, the statue and its removal. So much history, so much turmoil . We note that multiple statues have the year of passing as 1937. Stalin’s “Great Purge” or “Большой террор” “Bolshoy terror” the most likely cause of death for 700,000 to 1.2 million people estimated to have been executed between September 1936 and August 1938.

Monument of 1 Dec 1924 communist coup and unveiled in 1975 to commemorate 35 years of Soviet Estonia
Lenin, the face that stared down over Estonia for decades.
Maarjamäe Memorial Complex, Tallinn – commemorates the Bolshevik victims of the 1918 Russian Civil War.
The eternal flame no longer burns at this Bolshevik memorial
Kadriorg Park, Tallinn – construction began in 1718 on the orders of Russian Tsar Peter 1
Kadriorg Park – each tree is dedicated to a loved one

We head back to town and up to the area known as “High Town”. We enter the Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky cathedral to discover a hive of activity, no not us tourists, but large number of local women decorating the cathedral with flowers and laying out cakes. It is Sunday after all. We feel wrong to be visiting or taking photos at this time and we withdraw.

Estonia’s main Russian Orthodox cathedral, Aerxander Nevsky Cathedral, Tallinn

By contrast the nearby Cathedral of St Mary, run by the Lutheran Church is much quieter. Built on the location of the first Church in Tallinn, the first stone was laid in 1240. With the organist playing, we can quietly contemplate the interior and history of such a beautiful building.

St Mary’s Cathedral, Tallinn’s oldest church
Wonderful organ music was being played at St Mary’s Cathedral, Tallinn

While the Naval museum was closed for renovation, but one can still admire the scale of the seaplane hanger that houses the museum, we visit historic ships mored nearby. Until the dissolution of Soviet Union, this was part of a naval base.

The old Seaplane hangers now a museum.
Suur Tõll, Estonian Steam powered icebreaker

We then travel to a gluten free cafe in the suburb of Kalamaja just behind the station. Colourful houses line the streets and it seems like it would be a good suburb to live in. Then onto the Linnahall formally known as the V.I.Lenin Palace of Culture and Sports, a multi purpose venue opened in 1980 when Tallinn hosed sailing for the Moscow Olympics. It contained a skating rink and concert hall. Both are now closed and the vast concrete structure is closed and slowly falling into disrepair. Will it every return to its former glory?

Colourful wooden houses in the suburb of Kalamaja.
Clever park bench feature, Tallinn
V I Lenin Palace of Culture and Sports or the ruins of the 1980 Moscow Olympics Yachting Centre – now called Linnahall.

We have really enjoyed our visit to Tallinn and know if we come back this way, there is more for us to explore.

Anne & Anthony

Heading to Helsinki

I feel somewhat of a fraud. While I recline in the Cathay Pacific Lounge at Heathrow Terminal 3 awaiting our flight to Helsinki friends are riding motorcycles across Morocco wobbling over sand dunes, splashing across rivers and removing the rear axles of cars u-turning in front of them. All Ok I hasten to add. The closest I have come to a motorcycle is visiting the mechanics who will service Streak and Storm in January next year. Some adventure motorcycle blog this is! Anyway back to the narrative……

After Anne’s father’s funeral, we spent time visiting with family in both France and the UK. Time flew by swiftly but is was great to catch up again after nine months even if we did not get around everyone and some friends will need to wait until next year or visit us in Australia.

Walking along the banks of the river Stour in Canterbury, I was surprised to see an unusual way of cutting down trees. Had chainsaws become too environmentally unfriendly and the locals reverted to pre Roman adzes for tree felling? No, on closer inspection the teeth marks of beavers were apparent. Yes beavers in Kent. Seems they became established in the last six months or so. While there is great interest in nature’s natural river managers, I am not sure that the centre of Canterbury is the best place for them to setup home.

Beaver teeth at work…..

ANZAC day, the 25th of April, holds a special place for Australians. It is the day we remember the day Australian and New Zealand troops landed at Gallipoli in Türkiye in 1915.

If offers us a time to remember those sacrifices made by others for our way of life today. It is also a time to reflect on the horrors of war and that we should all try to avoid actions that can lead to war…

Anne and I like to attend the dawn service at our local war memorial each year, but if travelling and near a major city with an Australian Embassy, there usually is an alternative. London has such a service. Being in Canterbury made the early morning journey impractical. There was however a later ANZAC Memorial Service service at Westminster Abbey that I was lucky enough to attend with Jeremy my brother in law. My Grandfather, as many others of his generation, fought in WW1 – for the first time I wore his medals in his honour, which I had cleaned and mounted in 2023.

Inside Westminster Abby for ANZAC day service

The temperatures have warmed considerably since we passed through Helsinki airport two and a half weeks ago. Lakes are now ice free and the daytime maximum temperature has soared from a chilly one to two celsius to a balmy 11 or 12 degrees. All those thermals that we thought would be mandatory wear are consigned to the bottom of the suitcase.

Helsinki airport – seating resemble forests and coffee tables made of logs

From Helsinki airport, we take the 600 bus to downtown Helsinki where our hotel is located. Tickets are purchased near the bus stop, not on the bus. After departing the airport, we meander through suburbs full of low rise apartments picking up and dropping off locals. We get our first real glimpse of how people live here. Fully enclosed balconies, fixed ladders and roof walkways, to remove snow we presume for the latter. Spring comes later here and green buds are just evident but no leaves yet.

Finnish houses with side ladders to clear snow?

Our planned “short walk” from the bus stop in town to the hotel is complicated by roadworks and the incompatibility of luggage wheels and cobblestones. The benefit of taxis door to door I suppose but we saved quite a bit of money.

After dinner we head out for a walk at 8 pm. Sunset is not till 9:30pm – what a benefit this is. One which we will never see in Queensland. Cannot have everything.

We decide to focus our evening walk in the District of Vironniemi across the inlet from out hotel, more precisely the sub district of Kruunuhaka. I am glad this is not an audio blog. I have no idea how to pronounce either name. This area contains not only a University, but two cathedrals and a presidential palace. Not bad for one sub-district.

We wander through the suburb, past the University, and as we approach some steps in front of the Helsinki Cathedral, I realise that I have been here before, April 2000 to be precise. A flying visit just to see Helsinki for the first time on one of my RTW flights for business. It was usually cheaper to buy a RTW ticket than just to the USA and back from Australia. I saved the company money, saw family and visited new destinations en route. Amazing how some memories come straight back but where I put things away at home last month still remain a mystery.

Helsinki Cathedral
That’s what you call a scissor lift!
Uspenski Greek Orthodox Cathedral
Ice breakers waiting in the background, Helsinki

We head out the next morning to return to Uspenski Cathedral, which is a Greek or Eastern Orthodox Cathedral and take time to explore the colourful interior. Worth a look if you are here.

Golden interior of Uspenski Greek Orthodox Cathedral

I am intrigued by the building drainage downpipes which all end at the base of the buildings, have groves cut in the pavement/sidewalk to take water to the street and have wires looped out of the bottom. A little research confirms they are heating wires used to thaw ice buildup in winter. They are looped from above and also cover gutters.

Dealing with ice Finnish style
Same street. Image taken in 1930’s

Our mini break will be across the Baltic in Tallinn, the capital of Estonia. This will be our first visit to both country and city. Our destination is a short two hour ferry ride from Helsinki. The terminal is spacious and people queuing leave space between one another, unlike other places we have been. Interesting to note that our ship is both powered by Liquid Natural Gas (LNG) and held to the quay by large electro magnets. Something new every day.

Magnets holding the ferry to the dock.

The duty free shopping area is vast and well stocked with products normally only seen in high end stores or major international airports. Pity our budget will not reach such heights, sorry, Red Label for you all.

At AUD 10,000 a bottle we will give this a miss.
So calm Anne did not realise we sailed!

A calm crossing sees us disembarking in Tallinn mid afternoon. A new adventure awaits.

– Anthony