Unwinding in Ho Chi Min city

Flying from Brisbane to London normally sees one go through an Asian or Middle Eastern airline hub and takes around 24 hours, with one long leg of up to 14 hours. As soon as you look into breaking that long leg into two more manageable sectors you add additional airlines and the cost climbs significantly. We have found that the long sectors in economy, especially overnight do knock us about more than they used to.

For this journey we are using our frequent flyer points acquired over the last few years which has allowed us to create a route with three breaks for a day or two each time. We will take eight days to get from Brisbane to London.

After our overnight stop in Singapore we are whisked to Ho Chi Min City in just two hours. While we have visited other parts of Vietnam before, it is our first time in Ho Chi Min City.

A steady passage through immigration over 1.5 hours (luckily short of the 3 hours some have experienced) and we are heading for baggage claim: the bags have long since arrived and our three are neatly lined up together in a special area. A very nice touch , thank you whoever put them together for us.

We have read the usual bad taxi stories and booked ahead, with Anne getting the Klook app which also proved useful for booking lunches and tours. I must admit that we had no problems when we exited the terminal. I guess it is down to perceptions and with all our decades of travel experiences, we are probably more laid back than most.

Waiting for our ride from the airport

As we are whisked, at times what seems to be walking pace, to our hotel, we get to understand how the traffic flows work in Ho Chi Min City. I am reminded of an experiment I saw once where a scientist progressively filled a container with rocks, sand and water and how at each stage the container appeared full, you could add another layer. The cars are rocks and the mopeds sand. The mopeds seem to flow between the cars like sand between the rocks, I am assuming that drones one day will fill the gaps between the mopeds. Given the ingenious carrying capacity of a moped, why do we in the west require cars in warmer climes? A nifty parcel rack and dual hook combination below the handlebars will carry all one’s shopping and parcels. Three up is not uncommon and four at a pinch. Given the packed pavements, one wonders how a move to motorcars would be catered for, however it has happened in China where the move has been from bicycles to cars in two decades. How was that done?

Texting and moped riding go hand in hand.
A four person family vehicle passes a delivery moped.
Even the traffic police ride two up.

After arriving at the hotel which is in the centre of the city in District 1, we realise that yesterday I went 23 hours without sleep. While wonderful local food is all around us, I succumb to getting chips and dip from a western supermarket and sleep overcomes me.

On our first full day, Anne sensibly books a decent lunch at the Lotte Hotel Saigon on the river to recharge our batteries. This gives us an opportunity to walk across the centre of Ho Chi Min city. En-route, we discover an excellent patisserie, Bến Thành Market Station on the first new metro line, opened in December 2024, of fourteen planned and learn to walk across streets in harmony with the ever flowing streams of mopeds crossing our path.

Coffee holder for moped handlebars.
These croissant are really delicious.
First Metro line in Ho Chi Min City, station. Bến Thành Market Station.
Need eyes in the back of your head to be a traffic police officer here.
Well ordered parking in Ho Chi Min City

The Lotte Hotel Saigon buffet exceeds all expectations, we are overwhelmed with the choices and the service was exceptional. We had advised one of the managers of our food requirements, no lactose for Anne and coeliac for me. As we head to the buffet to load up, a member of staff follows us, he has been informed of our intolerances and is there to advise us on what we can eat – what service! Anne has rated them highly on TripAdvisor, well deserved.

Ready for a feast.

We return via the Saigon Central Post Office, built in the French Colonial times is described as “French Colonial” style. It was the centre of an extensive telegraph network and today attracts tourists from around the world who queue to send postcards home.

Central Post Office with statues in “Socialist Realism” style.
Map of Telegraph lines in the Mekong delta.

The adjacent Cathedral was closed and we return to our hotel for a well deserved rest. We realise that it will take a few days to adjust to travelling again and for Anne to relax after the project closeout.

Day three, now we will really explore starting with a visit to the Independence Palace. Completed in 1967 and only in use till 1975 it is now a museum. We go via the Bến Thành Market one of the oldest remaining buildings in Ho Chi Min City. Completed in 1914 is now home to some 1,500 stalls selling an amazing array of goods from food to luxury items.

It is somewhat of a tourist mecca, but after being grabbed by a over zealous store-holder, to look at who knows what, we leave. Not our thing, but Anne did purchase 500g of dried mango for a reasonable price, very tasty.

Inside Bến Thành Market
Mobile vegetable shop on the back of a moped.

The Independence palace has a very 60’s appearance. It was the presidential palace before reunification in 1975. With Vietnam’s capital in Hanoi, it has been converted to a museum. Interesting to see a 1960’s architecture preserved with all the period furniture. The building is still used from time to time for meeting foreign dignitaries. We are seeing a historical building but from our lifetimes. We must be getting older! We pass two army tanks on display in the grounds, identical models to those that broke through the gates in the famous photograph from 30 Apr 1975. We exit through those same gates.

Independence Palace the day before Hung King’s Commemoration Day.
Meeting room for visitors in the Independence Palace
Lacquer wall art in the Independence Palace.

By now we have adapted to crossing roads at a steady pace with the mostly moped traffic deftly weaving around us. It is still a little unnerving as a swarm of mopeds sweeps up the road towards you: do not to turn, look or panic. Remember, do not hesitate, your path has been factored in by the riders. Coming from wearing full face motorcycle helmets, the small half helmets seem more like cyclists headgear and the words “Style and Fashion” emblazoned on one pink helmet do not give me confidence as to the safety features of said helmet.

Lunch is taken nearby at Quán Nhon 138, as we see it is full of locals, which is always an indication to us of good food. We try a couple of new dishes and are not disappointed although a little spicy by our standards, probably considered mild by locals.

For dinner, we try something different and head to a local bar and eatery intriguingly named Forest Therapy. They have created a jungle like environment in the centre of the city. A couple of cocktails, which is unusual for us and good food made for an enjoyable evening.

Dinner in the Forest Therapy.

I have to confess that we have not tried the street eateries that seem to occupy store fronts in every street in District 1. Am not sure if it is because of the low tables and chairs that I may never get up from, the fact that gluten free may be an impossibility or just we are looking for the easier albeit more expensive option for food. When we are on the road next month on Streak and Storm, such places will be the norm and I am looking forward to those experiences.

– Anthony

Wandering through “Little India” in Singapore

At 7:30 am the quiet of the morning is broken by the tolling of the bell and the nearby Hindu Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple. We are staying at the Hilton Garden Inn Serangoon in the heart of Little India in Singapore. While Singapore is known for its modern architecture, fabulous gardens and attractions, we both enjoy the more historic areas such as Little India. The buildings here seldom exceed a couple of stories and it can feel as if the surrounding skyscrapers are crowding in on this small quaint area.

An early morning stroll takes us past the temple with rows of shoes carefully placed outside the entrances attest to those who have answered the bells’ call. Shops close by are festooned with garlands of flowers and limes, to be purchased by those attending the temple. The smell of spices waft from the now open restaurants as we walk past, tempting but we have already eaten so not this time. Many types of regional Indian cuisine seem to be represented.

While the Serangoon Road seems to be the home of gold and jewellery stores selling everything up to 23.999 carrot bars, each side street seems to have groupings of business, export to India, clothing, pc repair, even dentists are all neatly grouped together. I guess it makes it easier to compare, no driving from store to store. Anyway a picture tells a thousand words so enjoy as we did.

Eating out at a Nepalese restaurant in Little India
Traditional sewing as we saw in India in 2014
The Sri Veeramakaliammama Temple
Follow the heritage trail for more information.
Not yet open for business on Dunlop Street.
Traditional street art, modern imagery.
Only open 23 hours a day.
Last Chinese Villa in Little India, formally owned by Tan Teng Niah

We are here in Singapore after a few whirlwind days in Brisbane after our return from Cairns, unpacking and repacking, catching up with friends and even buying a new iPhone for me to replace my SE series 2 which was on its last legs. A 6am departure and we are off.

– Anthony

Cairns and the Atherton Tableland an exploration over 18 months

Everything is packed and we are ready to depart Cairns for the last time. Time for a little bit of reflection on Anne’s and my time here in Cairns. Situated between the Great Barrier Reef and the tropical rainforest we did not spend every weekend snorkelling or walking amongst the ferns, so what else do we do with our  time in Cairns?  Well, Anne keeps pretty busy with that work stuff. As project manager, I think, Anne is like a conductor of an orchestra trying to keep all musicians on track and in tune. Not an easy task.

Anne’s home for 12 months.

Food, now there is a good place to start.  With all the tourism, Cairns has an amazing array of eating places, everything from excellent seafood, a variety of Asian cuisines and even a French restaurant.  We have our favourites.   “Tha Fish”on the waterfront with great views over the harbour and Trinity Inlet.  Rendezvous du Vietnam and “Little Sister” are close to Anne’s apartment and both have excellent food. 

Dinner at Tha Fish our favourite Cairns restaurant.

Anne is even a social member at the local Cairns Returned Services League (RSL) club. The Club overlooks the Cairns War Memorial and at 6pm each day, the “Last Post” sounds and the chatter of voices stops instantly and everyone stands in silence, taking a moment perhaps to think about what wars cost.  A memorable moment.

Cairns WW2 memorial to Commando Units M & Z opposite the RSL club at sunset.

Now you are right in thinking this blog started with motorcycles, so where do they fit into Cairns?  We had decided that we wanted to explore the region during the winter and so in June the “Bird” and the “Bee” needed to move to Cairns.  I did consider riding each motorbike one at a time up, but it is not the same as riding together.  So shipping by road we will go.  Ironhorse Motorcycle Transport did a great job  and in a couple of days we were riding in Cairns.

“All aboard” Next stop Cairns.

Our first trip was up the Gillies Highway, this road that starts at Gordonvale is known for a section that is 19km./ 12 ml. long that climbed 800m. / 2600ft. And has 263 corners.  What a great motorcycling road! Upwards and onwards we twist and turn to the top and onto the Atherton Tableland. This is an area of undulating scenery and some great roads to ride, cafes to stop for lunch and even strawberry farms for that sundae on Sunday.

Making the most of Far North Queensland (FNQ)
First time up the Gillies.
A break amongst the sugar cane south of Gordonvale.
Stop off in Cardwell

We have also ventured to Port Douglas, the Daintree River, Innisfail and Kuranda on the motorbikes.  While the landfalls from Cyclone Jasper have not all been repaired on the various routes to the north and west of Cairns, we are still able to have some great riding experiences including up the coast on the Captain Cook Highway which gives spectacular views out over the Coral Sea.  A stop at Thala Beach Nature Reserve Resort for coffee overlooking the spectacular coast is well worth a very short detour.  

Mosman Gorge.

Anne running? “I would like to see that” especially as Anne has a titanium plate in her right foot making running impossible.  Anne coined the phrase “Night Walkers” for those in a local walking group who worked and could not walk during the day. So how come Anne signed up for the Cairns Half Marathon? Not quite sure but  Anne walked with a work colleague, or rather limped in the later stages for 21 kilometres.  Well done Anne and what a great medal to remember the experience by. 

Anne crosses the finish line completing her first half marathon.
A medal and a banana.
Jess and Anne with their half marathon medal

Cairns is home to the Australian Armour Museum, the museum contains an impressive collection on armoured vehicles some dating back over 80 years.  All exhibits are housed undercover in a massive building all of which is privately funded.  What makes the museum even more interesting is that many of the exhibits have been restored to running, not firing order I hasten to add.  Once a year many are run on the outdoor grass circuit. It probably takes the next 12 months to repair the damage to the grass made by literally dozens of tracked armoured vehicles.  Surprisingly, all this is privately funded by a local, I was told. Quite an investment in the community as a number of people are employed to restore the various vehicles.

Inside the museums cavernous hall.
AusArmourfest held in August. Get to ride on a tank.

“Shadows of the Past” is a theatre experience held annually in the McLeod Street Pioneer Cemetery. A local theatre company performs in the cemetery at night bringing alive some of the stories of those buried there who were the early European pioneers in the Cairns region. We were able to attend the preview night courtesy of a friend of Anne’s. I was fascinated to hear their stories, all well presented, as we navigated our way around the cemetery from “stage” to “stage” with tiny nights on the ground to guide us.  Each actor wrote their own story from their research, making their delivery very natural.  What was  surprising to me was the deaths from tetanus, diabetes, and other aliments that are easily treated today but were death sentences 150 years ago.  I did feel sorry for one inhabitant who, while passing the winning post in a horse race, had his saddle slip and hit his head of said post making a quick trip to the cemetery.  

Actors ready to tell their character’s story.
Telling her character’s story by the graveside.

Much has been made of cost of living pressures and the power exerted by the big supermarket chains.  We are no different to many others taking convenience over choice when we shop of vegetables.  Walking through Cairns early one morning after seeing Anne to work, I passed the Cairns market.  Alive with activity as stallholders laid our their produce and customers with shopping trollies walked the isles looking for the freshest fruit and vegetables.  The choice is impressive both traditional western and asian fare on display many stating  “Locally Grown”.  I am certain that the route from farm to stall is a lot more direct than the big chains warehouses where I wonder how long items sit in storage before distribution.  It really is up to us individually to make the change and support local stallholders and farmers if we want them to survive.  This market is a large contributor to OzHarvest, a charity that rescues food from markets, stores and supermarkets and delivers to various organisations to assist those in need.  

Support you local market, Rusty’s in this case.
Why Coconuts lost out to Coca Cola. Packaging.
Shelves are empty again due to the floods

Cairns also seems to be blessed with an impressive number of festivals, all themed and just a few paces from Anne’s apartment. Fireworks always seem to light the night sky at such events and even if I cannot eat the pizza or pasta at the Italian festival we still enjoy seeing how well supported the each festival is by visitors and locals alike.

Festival fun with bubbles on Cairns esplanade.
Fitzroy Island trip with our dear Sydney friends
Nice to see Nola in Cairns
Anne’s two Cairns buddies Julie and Belinda
Final Cairns team dinner at Anne’s appartment

Waterfront walks, rides for coffee at Kuranda or Palm Cove, trips to Fitzroy Island we have enjoyed them all, but still have not been snorkelling, visited all the towns on the Atherton Tableland, attended a Theatre performance or visited the Aquarium. Much more for us to do and we have realised that we will not see it all in Anne’s remaining time in Cairns.  So much variety in such a compact area well work a visit if you are looking for a break from the big cities down south.

Anne’s work was tough at times, working very long hours, but her work colleagues, local friends and our exploring made it all worthwhile and enjoyable. Thank you Cairns – we’ll be back!

– Anthony

Cairns to Brisbane… 5 Days on the Road

When the “Bird” and the “Bee” were shipped up to Cairns last year, we had hoped at the end of Anne’s project to ride back to Brisbane taking a couple of weeks, but this would depend on a number of factors including time of year and our future overseas travel plans. As time progressed we realised that the options had narrowed: we either ride back in five days or ship the bikes back. You guessed it, option A won out easily but we would need ride about 400km each day which is about a 100 km more than we usually do. Around Cairns, we were only doing 250km trips so how will our bodies react to an extra couple of hours in the saddle each day?

Packed and ready to go. Ignition on, engine start but it seems I have no fuel! Zero according to the dial but then I remember that I installed a new battery last week.  A quick pit stop, fuel in, gauge fills up and we are good to go and off Brisbane here we come.

As we head south past Gordonvale, the Gillies Highway turnoff, Innisfail and to the Bingil Bay Cafe near Mission Beach, Anne realises that we are seeing each of these places for the last time and that her stay in Cairns is coming to an end. Quite emotional. Anne has become an FNQ’er. (Far North Queensland) person. Anything below 26 Celsius / 79 Fahrenheit is now considered cold by Anne.

Its tough on the road. Bengal Bay Cafe.
Mission Beach at its best for riding.

We stop at the Hinchinbrook Island outlook, which was very close to where we stayed last August to celebrate 50 years since we met in 1974. 

Southern end of Hinchinbrook Island in the distance.

Lunch is taken at Ingham which as far south as we have ventured on the motorbikes in Anne’s time in Cairns.  I have found as a coeliac that the local country pub always does a gluten free steak, mash and steamed veggies, it works every time. 

It’s only just over 100km to Townsville no problem apart from a really heavy afternoon rain.  Am I on a road or a river? We are still using some riding gear that dates back to 2014. We have added a new Rev’it Cyclone 4 H2O Rain Jacket over our now semi porous well loved KLIM motorcycle clothing.  We are however testing current riding boots which while great in the dry are semi porous and will require us to rethink footwear for Europe.

Now I know where rain comes from.

Our walk back from the local shopping centre we get drowned again, no waterproof clothing just the Queensland wear, shorts, singlet and thongs so not much of a problem there.  We have however lost one of our Sena headsets, completely dead. The driving rain has made its way past the layers of waterproof tape holding it together. Cable ties and tape can only do so much.  But we have a spare old unit so onwards we go.

With still damp clothing and sodden riding boots, we set off on day two, rain foremost in our minds and yes rain is back.  If i ride faster will it miss me, sadly no. I recall in the book “So long and thanks for all the fish” by Douglas Adams the existence of a minor rain god who is followed by the clouds. No not us as the weather clears as we head south.  A detour up the 200 meter high Mt Inkerman south of Townsville brings me a “close encounter of the kangaroo kind” within a few meters, luckily I am only travelling at about 40km an hour but it was close enough to raise my pulse rate.

Looking North from Mount Inkerman.
Queen St in Ayr.

Bowen for coffee and Proserpine for lunch with interesting chats with locals allows us to avoid the passing showers. Mackay is our second stop and a chance to catch up with Mar, a motorcycling friend who lives there.  A good side to social media and forums – Anne and Mar met online through common interests and we first met Mar at Brisbane airport about a year ago. Mar used to be a motorcycle racer in Spain and it was beautiful to watch Mar zoom off after our dinner together in Mackay – she is obviously just one with her bike – poetry in motion as the saying goes.   

Catching up with Mar in Mackay.

At Sarina we head west on the alternative inland route to Marlborough suggested by our friend.  Yes rain again but we now have bin liners in our boots so they remain dry. A great road but after 30 minutes “Road Closed due to flooding”!  We stop and Anne goes back but the first sign in a large “X”?  Must be further back? We have no mobile coverage so Anne goes looking and disappears from sight. A ute pulls over and the driver offers to go and bring Anne back.  Five minutes later Jacob and Anne are back.  The sign has reappeared.  The wind is blowing the “X” cover on and off and is not secured. How easily one can be led astray by false information and the internet was not involved.  The road is not flooded and we can continue.

Before …….
After….no wondered we were confused.
Jacob saved Anne a long walk back

A somewhat lumpy road with little traffic would be wonderful to ride, apart from the many recently deceased kangaroo and wallaby carcasses that regularly dot the road. I did see one grey hopping away from the road but the number of fresh carcasses is a reminder of the risks on some roads.

Best to avoid these if you can.

A break and good coffee at “the homestead” at Lotus Creek, onward we go. We have little sign of civilisation since leaving Sarina until we come across the Clark Creek wind farm which is under construction.  When completed stage 1 will bring 450MW online generated by 100 massive turbines. 

A coffee oasis at Lotus Creek.
Still toughing it out on the road.
Lotus Creek Emu’s
Memorial to 1956 Olympic Relay organisers on the Marlborough Rd.

After lunch in Marlborough we head towards Rockhampton,  traffic is light and we make good progress apart from Anne needing the occasional 10 minute afternoon nap.  I thought that was my  province “afternoon naps”!

A little nap at the side of the main highway.
No this sign is not near Anne sleeping!

By day four we are well versed in packing and leave Rockhampton ahead of our usual 7:45 and now the rain had finally abated we make good progress south. We are heading for Hervey Bay to catch up with an old work colleague of Anne’s. The remaining Sena headsets are disconnecting, playing music and occasionally I cannot hear Anne.  Only when we do not have contact with each other do we realise how much we miss the contact.

Anne does love her tractors.

Our last day on the road, we have covered over 1600km with around 300 still to go. We are surprised at the volume of traffic heading into Hervey Bay as we make our way towards Maryborough.  It has been interesting to compare the size of each town we have passed through as a dot on a map tells you nothing about the town and its facilities. 

We get to use the Gympie by-pass for the first time, smooth double lane highway, 26 kilometres long which removes 53 intersections and nine traffic lights from our journey and with animal fencing down each side is much safer. Shortly after mid day we are home in Manly.

Five days on the road, 1,900 kilometres covered and we have identified what motorcycle gear still works and what does not. Our new over-jackets are great and very visible, waterproof boots need to be considered and research is needed on the next headsets to replace the Senas which have reached the end of the road after over 10 years of service. We now both head back to Cairns by air,  covering the same distance in two hours 15 minutes but without all the experiences being on the road brings.

– Anthony