All aboard…………
‘All Aboard’ the call of the conductor mingles with the hissing steam from locomotive number 486 on the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad (DSNG RR) as we prepare to depart from Durango for an all day round trip to Silverton. We have chosen the open carriage, which affords a view seated sideways, but exposes us to soot, a small by-product of stream locomotives which we find coats our clothing, hair and skin, all part of the experience.
Our Durango-Silverton Rail Road train
The railway was constructed by the Denver & Rio Grande Railway in the 1880s to take supplies and people to the town of Silverton and bring back silver and other ores from the mines situated in around the town. Run as a tourist operation since the 1980’s the DSNG RR line is some 45.2 miles or 72.7 kilometers miles long. Each way takes some three and a half hours with maximum speed of 25 mph or 40 kmph, although often slower than this.
A final long blast on the whistle and we are off, slowly the puffing locomotive draws us out of Durango station, loud whistles continue as we cross each street in Durango and there are many of them. The carriage sways as we gather speed, a gentle rocking motion, this is not the welded track of our local suburban rail services. Quickly we are out of town
Horses along the DSNG RR
Our journey will follow the Animas river and we start by paralleling Route US550 with fields and farms on both sides, pleasant but not inspiring. We cross the US550 with the typical US rail road crossing bells ringing in our ears, I am sure you have heard them in the movies. We start to climb into the pine and aspen trees, looking eagerly for our first glimpse of wildlife, alas nothing stirs, but we are sure many eyes are upon us.
The railway line has a number of passing places which also serve as maintenance depots. After an hour we reach Rockwood which also has a wye which allows trains to reverse direction. We enter a cutting with shear rock on each side and on the other side, Wow!
The trackbed is cut into the cliffside, seemingly hanging by its nails or rails as we wend our way above the Animas River rushing over the rocks below. We had been promised a spectacular journey and we were not being disappointed. We snake our way northwards and can easily touch the rock in numerous rock cut outs and view the rushing river below.
Along the DSNG RR
The slow pace on this section means we do touch the rock wall on one side while,looking down into the canyon on the other.
DSNG RR cliff face
It’s a pretty sheer drop down to the Animas River
Apart from the railroad track, no sign of human habitation exists. I love this aspect of rail travel, we see none of the usual rubbish that is associated with roadsides.
Engine discharges steam by the Animas river
We descend to the Animas river and then spend the rest of the journey criss crossing from time to time giving people on both sides a wonderful view. We see little meadows in clearings, still carpeted in delicate wildflowers. Aspen trees interspersed with pines line the river as we progress northwards.
Fast running Animas river
Our eyes are peeled for a bear sighting, but alas, while they most likely all looked at us as we went by, we didn’t see a single one. Chipmunks have to do for wildlife, much smaller than bears, but not as scary!
Chipmunk!
Arriving into Silverton
We arrive in Silverton, where we have heard everyone works in the restaurants when trains are in town. When they hear the first train’s whistle, they drop what they are doing and head for their lunchtime jobs. With up to 900 people for lunch on 3 trains daily, you can see this makes sense. The visitors that the DSNG RR brings to Silverton each day probably form the basis of the town’s economy.
Saloon in Silverton
Great Silverton street entertainment for young and old
The DSNG RR is also the largest employer in Durango with over 500 staff. The loss of the railways tourist pull would devastate both towns economies. We are told the the Maintenance of Way staff who are responsible for the track at times work 24 hours a day to keep the trains running.
One of many Animas river crossings
Aspen trees along the Animas river
Stream trains seem to bring out the best in people, we saw waving from people on foot, in cars, on bicycles and even skateboards. Anne (Vive la France – it’s the 14th of July today!!) loved this aspect of humanity.
The return journey is just as pleasurable, and in no time we are with civilisation again. This was a very worthwhile day and we hope you enjoy this and the related video.
Anthony has always loved steam trains
– Anthony
San Juan Mountains, ‘Million Dollar Highway’
Fabulous Rides through Colourful Colorado – 1
Sunshine greets us for the first time in days as we head south from David and Leslie, their wonderful hospitality still fresh in our minds. We head south with Cañon City as our likely destination today. Swiftly we travel down I25 to Colorado Springs, passing the US Airforce Academy (USAFA) which Anthony is certain will not allow visitors in today’s security conscious but I spot the visitor’s hours, so we turn back, and pass the offramp for Cheyenne Mountain Air Force Station, of Cold War and movie fame. Surprisingly, the only security check consists of handing our Australian driver’s licence (which has our name and our photo) to the guard at the entrance, who looks at each one briefly and hands them back and off we drive through the vast USAFA grounds. It surprises us that it is so easy for us to get in, nothing written down, nothing checked. What incredibly huge and scenic grounds the USAFA is situated in. It is one of 580 sites put forward at the time of choosing a suitable site for the Academy and was selected as such in 1954. The graduation of the first cadets took place in June 1959. And the first class of cadets to include women entered in 1976 and graduated in 1980.
Sign on the road leading to the US Air Force Academy
B52 at the US Air Force Academy
We head to the tourist centre which is a good few miles from the entrance gate. After visiting part of the museum which explains the ranks new graduates go through, we watch an interesting film on life as a new recruit during their first year. This is when we learn why they are so brutally waken up every morning, with loud banging, shouting and pounding on the doors: this is how you are likely to be waken up in real life, in case of bomb, attack or other emergency, so get used to it. We see how new recruits are ‘broken’ and ‘built up’ again over their 4 year course. It reminds me of what I learned from my nephew: they break you because when you are at your lowest, your true nature comes out. And that’s when you find out whether you have what it takes to be an officer.
Where we have lunch, we see a very interesting display on the Tuskegee Airmen: a group of African-American military pilots who fought in WWII. Because the US military was still racially segregated at the time, these airmen trained at a separate university and air field. They were flying escorts for heavy bombers and never lost a bomber they escorted, although 84 Tuskegee pilots lost their lives. Interestingly, and sadly, the Tuskegee airmen were some of the best pilots of their time because of their training and personal drive to be accepted for training and it wasn’t until 1949 that black airmen were allowed into the formerly white-only units.
We also visit the stunning USAFA chapel, which has sections dedicated to different faiths.
USAFA Chapel
We stay in a cheap motel in Cañon City and head towards Gunnison on US Route 50. We get to Salida again, stopping at the Royal Gorge – very touristy but worth seeing.
Royal Gorge bridge, west of Cañon City, Colorado
On the Royal Gorge bridge built in 1929, 321m/1053ft above the Arkansas river
Royal Gorge bridge – the world’s highest suspension bridge – spot the train below
A stop along the Arkansas river
As we approach Salida, large storm clouds are looming so decide to have lunch where we had breakfast a week ago and wait for the storm to pass.
Approaching Salida, storm clouds building
After lunch in Salida, will have coffee somewhere and wait this one out
An hour later, it is still raining, so we head into the old Salida and find somewhere for coffee. That is when I notice wires hanging from Anthony’s bike: BMW Denver, when they serviced our bikes, didn’t bother returning the cables where Anthony had them carefully wrapped and tied under his ‘tank’ cover and they have worked themselves loose…
Storm passed, time to move on. US Route 50 has some stunning stretches. We climb up to Monarch Pass, at over 3,445 metres (or 11,300ft), and cruise down towards Gunnison, along Tomichi Creek.
Poncha Springs
Approaching Gunnison
We get to Gunnison around 4pm. All hotels are full, so camping it will be. We recall seeing a number of Klim banners, they made our motorcycle jackets, as we entered town at one of the inns so we decide that we will try the hotel there.
We meet Tonia and Katie, who are running an Adventure Rally Series event on behalf of motorcycling magazines including Dirt Rider, Cycle World and Motor Cyclist. This is an event over three days, limited to 100 participating riders working in teams, that tests their motorcycling skills and gives them the opportunity to explore central Colorado. Tonia quickly offers us a place to pitch our tent and then invites us to be her guests for the evening, how generous of her and how lucky we are!!
Our camping site behind the Inn at Tomichi Village outside Gunnison
It is hard to describe the evening as we met so many kind and interesting people. Offers of accommodation from Domenic and Petra, Ned who offered us use of his room and shower at the inn, gifts from sponsors such as Chris from SBS who gave us T-shirts, gloves and brake pads, and Justin from Butler Maps who gave us 3 maps designed by motorcyclists for motorcyclists: these state by state maps highlight and provide information on the most scenic and beautiful riding within the state, with detailed maps of each route, colour coded depending on grade and skill. Riders had travelled from far and wide across the USA. These maps are great for anyone touring the western US and looking for scenic routes – check out http://www.butlermaps.com. It was such a pleasant and interesting evening with simple, friendly, fun and open likeminded souls. The final prize was fun. Participants were asked to who has an interesting to share: the first one described how he rode for a half a day operating by hand an adjustable wrench which replaced the gear shift lever sheered off by a tree root. The 2nd explained how he broke a Ducati electronic key on a friend’s bike (irreplaceable at short notice), and that friend hot wired another key via the light wiring. The 3rd one to put his hand up told how he spent the first 2 days of this 3 day event in prison: on his way over to Gunnison, his expensive bicycle was stolen outside his motel room. He called the police who, after getting his details, promptly told him he was under arrest, handcuffed him, threw him in jail for 2 days – all because he was supposedly in contempt of court for failing to appear in court 24 years ago when his wife filed for divorce, but he had moved interstate and never got the notice. He won the prize.
Chris from SBS
Justin’s starting early on a KTM
Alex, Petra, John and Domenic
A slow rise and pack the next morning from Gunnison, we make a leisurely and short route to Montrose where we find a great little motel as the afternoon storm is building fast – we prefer to stop early, avoid the rain and leave at the crack of dawn tomorrow. Time for shower and machine wash our clothing there.
Leaving Gunnison, on US50
Running along the southern side of the Arkansas river
Along US50 near Cimarron
The first G1 section of our new map (perfect biking road) which we covered was the ‘Million Dollar Highway’, so called due to the cost at the time. Part of US Route 550 runs over 40kms/25 miles from Ouray to Silverton, through the Uncompahgre Gorge via the Red Mountain Pass at 3,358m/11018ft altitude. An absolutely stunning road. We stop at Silverton for tea and coffee, watch a steam train arrive and book ourselves on that train ride for tomorrow.
Ridgeway State Park
San Juan Mountains with Mr Abraham in the distance
Uncompahgre Formation outside Ouray – exposed rock going back 1.4 billion years showing perserved ripple marks
Red Mountain on the Million Dollar Highway
Million Dollar Highway
Million Dollar Highway
Million Dollar Highway
Million Dollar Highway
Silverton, Colorado
Watching the DSNG RR arrive at Silverton
Silverton, Colorado
Silverton, Colorado
Million Dollar Highway at Silverton – fabulous bike riding road
Leaving Silverton on the Million Dollar Highway
Colorado wildflowers
Our campsite outside Durango
We stop in Durango and set up our tent at the KOA campground for the next couple of nights. Not our favourite type of place to camp but the managers there have added some lovely features like fresh herb garden which we can help ourselves to, fresh pizzas made to order and delivered to your tent!!! See Anthony’s next post for commentary, photos and video on that train ride.
– Anne
Two weeks in Denver
We made it to Denver and BMW on 26th June, our 1 year anniversary since we left the UK. It is hot and so green. It is not the brown we have seen in the past because of the amount of recent rain. Daisies, white flowers, yellow flowers, purple, blue, pink. We have arrived at the tail end of the spring flowers but it is still stunning.
Our first stop in Denver when we arrive is BMW. It pains me to keep talking about Streak’s problems, but below is a synopsis in one long paragraph. As this goes into some detail, skip the next paragraph if, like me, you are tired of Streak’s problems, but just know that, as of 9th July, I think Streak is finally fixed!!
The service manager at BMW Denver in Aurora whom I have been dealing with since early June and well before the end of warranty has been away and is busy in his office so we see Linda, who checks the bikes in and out. I explain what Streak has been doing, including the lag, spluttering and stalling while riding which had reoccurred after Santa Fe but been fine for 2 days, and the previous squeaky suspension and strange sudden sagging feeling with the suspension while riding. We are told to trust them, they know what the problem is with the lag and spluttering as they have seen this many times. We find out from BMW Denver that BMW USA will only honour US specification motorcycles warranty work and that we will have to deal with BMW UK to get warranty work refunded. This has been confirmed to us by BMW USA. This is when the service manager comes out from his office behind Linda, introduces himself and explain to Anthony (I must have been invisible!) that it is what they have always done for people with non US bikes. We cannot afford to go on with Streak in this state so we have no option but to ask them to go ahead, and we will have to deal with a refund later… This is not a good feeling to say the least. This is the first time a BMW dealer has not honored the guarantee, and we have seen many since November in Thailand as you know!!!… Tuesday, Linda calls to say the bikes are ready, both have had their 25,000 miles service and Streak’s lagging problem is fixed. As suspected, we are told, the air filter was badly blocked, they cleaned it and all is fine. (Really?!). But there is a fault with my shock absorber, (which we had been told about by BMW Monterrey in Mexico in May, so well within the warranty period) and it will cost US$1795 and take 2-6 weeks to arrive. It is not dangerous so we decline to have the shock absorber fixed here because we would be expected to pay for this warranty work and we might have to wait an additional 6 weeks for the parts to arrive – we do not have this time anymore. We will get this work done in the UK as the problem was identified during the warranty period. As a bit of background for those new to the blog, the throttle lag and stalling while riding was first investigated by BMW Chiang Mai, Thailand in November, unsuccessfully fixed with a new throttle valve switch and identified as requiring a new DME by BMW Kuala Lumpur in December, all within the 2 year warranty period. The stalling while riding and spluttering got worse in Colombia in April. We rushed through Central America to get to the US in time for the problem to be looked at within the warranty period, but because of a major recall on BMW’s 1200GS, there were no maintenance slots available and we had to wait until end of June. We will now have to work on getting a refund for all this because BMW North America do not honor the guarantee which all other countries we have visited have. Wednesday, our friend Karen drops us off at BMW, we pay, it is painful, but we are grateful that BMW have done all the work so quickly for us. Time to reload the bikes and head to other friends of ours, south of Denver. Streak is purring beautifully once again. 15 miles out, on I470, it coughs, splutters and dies. I put my flashers on, and let Streak slowly freewheel to the curb, cutting across traffic on my inside. I let Anthony know what has happened and once on the curb, let out an almighty primal scream!!! This is now really frustrating. We have to get off this interstate asap and call BMW. Streak splutters, dies, restarts, splutters. We limp to a car park off I470 and call BMW: if Streaks can restart, they want us to return now. Yes, it dies on me again all the way back, once in a particularly awkward spot, but luckily, Anthony is protecting my back and the cars, probably seeing my flashing lights, patiently wait for Streak to eventually restart. This time the service manager comes out immediately so I explain to him the exact symptoms (I am no longer invisible), while Anthony deliberately stays back. Yes, the spluttering that didn’t occur for 2 days has returned, badly. It seems to start when Streak is hot. And the fuel tank is under half. I ask him to take it for run. No way!! It’s too dangerous he says…. Ha, really?! What about the parking lot? Off he goes, but doesn’t go out of 1st gear and Streak doesn’t miss a beat. He asks me many questions. He had ordered a part for Streak before our arrival last week and he will now install it. He had missed an email I had sent him after Santa Fe letting him know the problems had reoccurred and therefore didn’t look into the spluttering and stalling and didn’t hear my telling Linda this too… I point out that the service engineer overfilled my brake fluid reservoir and it has been leaking all over my tank over the past hour. That evening, I got really annoyed at myself for feeling so frustrated at them. People rarely get under my skin this way. The next day, Thursday, Linda calls – I get Anthony to answer, as he is so much nicer than me and I can’t face talking to them right now. Their new findings: replaced crank shaft sensor as found, while hot, intermittent signal interruption. On test ride, the bike still stalled. Replaced fuel pump unit as found voltage far above specifications. Regarding the suspension: found a fault for rebound adjustment – an intermittent internal fault and leak in the shock. Friday, at 4.45pm, I notice 2 emails from Stephen telling me the bike is ready for collection. A phone call an hour ago would have been nice… Too late to collect, so that will now have to wait until Tuesday 7th July. While we pay another $850 for a full fuel pump unit, and a crank shaft sensor and some fuel cleaner for Anthony, the service manager comes out and explains what they have done. In total for those parts, and 2 services, $2200, and they couldn’t even give the bikes a clean… Unbelievable. Enough said, we are not happy and now we have to find out how we get some of this back as part of warranty and get more warranty work done when we get back to the UK… All this because BMW USA will not honour other countries’ BMW warranties…. I would like to stress that this is not meant to be a rant against all BMW dealers, as we got absolutely fabulous service from BMW in Kuala Lumpur, Lima, San Jose in Costa Rica, Mexico City, Austin and Santa Fe who have all provided fantastic service, above and beyond expectations, and Streak has performed well apart from those issues, and Storm has not missed a beat.
Karen, whom we met in Brisbane through mutual friends, picks us up from BMW. How great to see her beaming face again. We stop for lunch on our way home to Broomfield – once again, I choose a berry salad. Yumm!! Those salads are so delicious, full fresh raspberries, blueberries, strawberries, different types of lettuce and some seeds for crunch including tiny bits of candied pecans. I must remember this for when we get back to Australia. We spend the next 5 days at Karen and Mike’s home. Mike treats us to his special bbq ribs, marinated to perfection by Karen the night before!! How amazing to see their kids, Kristi and Ian all grown up!!! We dogsat Kristi’s dog Eggo a few times – what a cute and intelligent dog!! Kristi, you’re lucky we didn’t dognap Eggo – I am sure he would love to travel and sit on top of our fuel tank! It was lovely just to be, relax in a home, chit chat, go for local walks to the local supermarket, get our washing up to date again. Packed lots of maps and brochures and sent these home. Said goodbye to Anthony’s old gloves. We had the use of Mike’s car for a day after we dropped him off at the airport and the house was ours for one night as Karen had a golf trip away that had been planned ages before our planned arrival. Karen and I had our toes painted. We did a spot of shopping too, looking to replace my Keen sandals which I have worn every single day since we left the UK and replace Anthony’s torn waterproof trousers – one leg was torn all the way up one side, so it was much needed. Karen drops us off at BMW before collecting Mike from the airport. Our stay with Karen and Mike was simply lovely – thank you Karen and Mike!!
Karen and Kristi preparing the okra for the bbq
Anthony and Mike preparing the smoked ribs
Great evening with Brissy friends Karen & Mike, with their daughter Kristi & Eggo
Happy toes – girls have to be girls – with Karen
Time to say goodbye
After our aborted ride out to Roxborough Park, and return to BMW, our friends David and Leslie come over to pick us up, taking the same route as we were taking in case they find us stranded on the side of the road. We unload the bikes again, leave Streak and Storm behind. It is great to see David and Leslie again!!! David and Anthony first met 20 years ago. They were the pioneers in coal seam gas in Australia and they signed the first coal seam gas deal in Australia. How brave they were back then, with so many sceptics around them at the time. After a few years, Anthony joined David’s company Tipperary and spent the most exciting and rewarding part of his working life there. I met David and Leslie a number of times in Denver, we skied together. They also organised my first ever art exhibition in the US!! It is there that Deborah first saw and fell in love with Aboriginal work and invited me to show in Houston in their restaurant and started my annual Houston shows. So a business association turned into a long friendship.
And what a warm welcome we are given by David and Leslie!!! We are thoroughly spoilt. We spend many hours chatting about the current political and economic climate in the US. We discuss politics, religion, retirement. Once again, we are touched that they open up so much with us, and we learn more about some aspects of life that is so American. What a wonderful to be and chatting with friends.
Moon rise ar Roxborough Park
David and Leslie take us to Estes Park, in the heart of the Colorado Rockies at 7522 ft/ 2300m altitude. The scenery up to Estes Park is lovely. We have lunch at the gorgeous old Stanley Hotel which was built in 1909. After our leisurely lunch, interrupted by a call from BMW Denver, we head to Loveland, through the Big Thompson River canyon which is stunning – I spot so many places I wish we could just stop and camp along the Big Thompson River. Loveland which has a huge sculpture park. I have always loved sculpture parks. This one is full of humour and joy. One artist made a sculpture of a shepherd with his goats. Some years later, another sculptor had his flock of wolves strategically placed in the park so that they are all looking back at what could be a tasty meal, the shepherd’s goats.
1909 Stanley Hotel, Estes Park, Colorado
With Lesley and David at Loveland, Colorado
Conversation by Robert McDermott, Loveland, Colorado
Monument in Right Feet Major, by Todd Kurtzman
Fireworks for sale for the 4th July
Leslie hardly stopped cooking magnificient meals for us. My one and only “core strength” gym session with Leslie wasn’t going to do much to counter the kilos I must have put on but showed me what muscles I need to work on: the legs and thighs are good, balance excellent, but my sparrow biceps need muscling up still!! We had fun making more s’mores.
Perfect marshmallows Leslie but watch that top one!
Love s’mores and the mess
We spent our first 4th of July in the USA since our last one in 1985 in Alaska. Those two evenings could not have been any different. Instead of the loud, beer swilling evening with a bunch of happy-go-lucky misfits, we spent this year’s 4th of July at friends of David and Leslie’s, Karen and Bill who kindly included us, with a group of people actively involved in supporting The Seed Company, a bible translating organisation, currently working on 700 languages in 70 countries. We had a bi-annual update meeting prior to the 4th of July fireworks. Not quite what we had expected but it was lovely of Karen and Bill to invite us, very interesting and we met some lovely people and enjoyed some amazing fireworks:
Gorgeous Ricki
4th of July 2015
4th of July 2015
4th of July 2015
4th of July 2015
This evening, we met some of David and Leslie’s dear friends – what a fun time we had with Pam, Anne-Marie, Teresa and John, especially learning from Anne-Marie about some of the sights in some San Francisco suburbs where for example walking down the streets totally naked is allowed, etc. I will let your imagination run wild with the “etc”…, really wild… The things you learn…
It has rained so much since we have been in the US and Denver has been no different. Very unusual weather we are told. We are leaving tomorrow and hope we get to set up camp before it rains. We have had an amazing time with David and Leslie – what wonderful hospitality and generosity, thank you Leslie and David!! And what a beautiful spot to spend a week.
Beautiful spot to spend a week, at Roxborough Park
Local wildlife comes every day for a drink – didn’t see the mountain lion
My brother would have loved this spot
Roxborough Park
Lovely walk in Roxborough Park
Gorgeous ride to Grant today
Home just before the rain
But we have been here much longer than we expected and the twisty roads, green pastures, multicoloured wildflowers and rushing creeks of Colorado beckon – we can wait to be back on the road again and camp – must remember to watch out for bears and the camping rules!!
– Anne
2slowspeeds 