Cornwall for a couple of days

While the country lanes of Cornwall seemed manageable for Streak and Storm, it seems to us it would be a different matter in a motorcar.  Even though Pat and Andy have chosen appropriately sized vehicles for the narrow lanes, there appear to be few places to pass. Thankfully we meet no oncoming traffic and finally arrive at their new home.  As we ride down their long driveway, I am reminded that we used to do this, on different motorbikes back at their old home in Maleny in Queensland, a sort of déja-vu?

As they welcome us, with yes you have guested it, Champagne, we easily slip back into conversation as if we had not seen each other for only a few weeks, not two years. As we enjoy their company as the sun sets over the Cornish landscape, we are told an interesting two days of local sightseeing have been lined up for us.  Pat and Andy and their choices did not disappoint. So much to see in a short distance of their home.

Pat and Anne catching up for the first time in three years.

Plymouth Dockyard was our first port of call, forgive the pun. Established in 1690, it is one of three major Royal Navy ship bases in the UK.  As the size of the Royal Navy diminished, so did the need for real estate. Royal William Victualling Yard which was built between 1826 and 1835, became surplus to requirements for the Royal Navy in the early 1990’s.  Today it is a mixture of housing, offices and restaurants in the restored old buildings. A great place for lunch sitting outdoors and admiring the impressive and imposing architecture.

Dock at Prince William Victualling Yard
Looking west at Price William Victualling Yard.

Cotehele, sited high above the Tamar river near Calstock was the ancestral home of the Edgecumbe family.  Now run by the National Trust, this Tudor era house reflects the Edgecumbe’s desire some 200 years ago to maintain its then historic Tudor interiors. Lavishly decorated with tapestries, arms and armour and a great deal of oak furniture for others to see. It shows that preservation of historical buildings interiors was not just a recent occurrence.   

Tudor interior at Cotehele house.
Cotehele house

Restormel castle was built in the late 13th century. Its unusual circular construction may have been more for its aesthetics rather than defensive properties as it was believed to have been built as more of  a luxury retreat than a fortification. The ruins still give a sense of the grandeur of the place with large fireplaces and high windows. A visit to the castle wall via a stone staircase allows one to walk almost a full circle and gives superb views across the valley of river Fowey.

Castle wall
Enjoying the Cornish weather at Restormel castle.
Anne’s first real Cornish Pastie, surprisingly good Anne says.

Our final night in Cornwall was rounded off with dinner in Looe. Drinks then dinner watching the sun set across the river mouth was the perfect way to end our three day visit. We will be back to Cornwall. Thank you Pat & Andy.

Looe harbour at sunset.

I have been told that travelling in Devon or Cornwall north to south is much easier than east to west which is direction of the busy main roads.  I have carefully plotted a route that will take us slowly east but travelling some of the secondary roads via Okehampton, Tiverton and Langport. It turns out that the route is not only very scenic and motorcycle friendly but has light traffic, the perfect combination.

Cornwall in all its riding glory.

Our route takes us through Somerset north of Yeovil past the Royal Navy station at Yeovilton.  This is home to the Royal Navy’s aviation wing, the Fleet Air Arm, Museum.  An opportunity not to be missed for an aviation enthusiast like me. Increasing my interest is the fact that both my father and step father had a naval connection.  My father did his national service in the South African Navy on HMSAS Jan Van Reibeik, formally HMS Wessex, and my step father made his career as an engineering officer the Fleet Air Arm.

Spread across four halls, the aircraft range from early years of naval aviation through WW2 to the to the recent Afghanistan conflict.   Hanger 3 has been cleverly modelled on a carrier deck from HMS Ark Royal from the 1960’s .  A McDonnall Douglas Phantom FG1, Blackburn Buccaneer S1, de Havilland Sea Vixen FAW2 are amongst others are on displayed on carrier deck. Access is via a simulated helicopter flight to the carrier deck. The aircraft carrier’s “Island” on one side of the hall contains three levels of compartments showing aspects of life on 1960’s aircraft carrier.  Quite illuminating as the narration is by videos made by modern day sailors looking back on their predecessors.

Contemplating hanger carrier deck replica.
Concorde 002, what a superb shape!

Also there, is Concorde 002, the second test aircraft – not sure what the connection is there or how even the most ardent naval aviation enthusiast could have considered it for the Fleet Air Arm. As we walked through the interior I recalled a tenuous connection to this aircraft. I saw it in Johannesburg at Jan Smuts airport in 1973 while they were doing hot and high testing and even got the chief pilot’s Brian Trubshaw’s autograph.  Anne remembers the excitement of seeing both Concorde 001 and 002 when they were first presented to the public at the Paris Air Show in 1969 at Le Bourget airport. A bit of nostalgia…

Cockpit of Concorde 002, so analogue.

The remainder of the afternoon is spent riding back to Dorset on the back roads enjoying a last few hours riding Streak and Storm before sadly returning them to slumber for another year. Streak needs new chain and sprockets and for a longer trip new tyres and batteries would probably be a good idea for both bikes. They performed flawlessly and like us there are a few miles / kilometres left yet in them. We will be thinking of what to do in the coming months for 2023.

– Anthony

PS. apologies for the tardiness in delivering blogs recently. We are looking to recruit additional staff or motivate the existing team to write faster and be back on track by the end of ???

Streak and Storm ride again?

After languishing in a dark, temperature and humidity controlled environment on trickle charge for almost three years, Streak and Storm are wheeled out into the preparation area. Excitement mounts with the possibility that the 2slowspeeds will ride again. Where to and for how long?

Meanwhile, a short distance away in the village of Verwood, two very dead Senna S20 headsets (for rider to rider communication) are being encouraged to take a charge. They have not been fed a meal of electricity for three weeks since they came with us from Brisbane and have not taken kindly to this.  We sometimes forget that many of the items that we use while motorcycling have been with us for up to eight years and, like us, can show signs of their age. One Sena S20 is revived but with an uncertain life expectancy, the other sadly did not make it out of the emergency room. Since they are an integral part of our riding, we pondered what to do next.

Contingency plans developed as we headed to pick up Streak and Storm included buying a new one today, costing some 250 UK pounds, or extending our car hire and not riding at all.  After deciding to take the hire car option and rebooking over the phone, success!!!, Anne finds a spare set of Sena S20’s she was sure had been left behind amongst a plethora of spares including brake pads, clutch cables and fuel pumps. Anne had found the spare Sena’s while removing extraneous parts from a pannier. Those spares we really do not need to carry on what will be the shortest trip taken by Streak and Storm, no more than 500 miles, and the first that does not involve a ferry, plane or train as part of the journey and is wholly in the UK.

After a nervous departure through the loose gravel path and as we get used to the feel of the bikes again navigating through the New Forest, I feel a mixture of pleasure, elation and slight nervousness as I become accustomed again to the handling of Storm again. Having been used to riding only the Triumph Thunderbird for so long, I have to get used to changing gears to gain power, not just a simple twist the throttle!  

A quick fuel stop to dilute the old stabilised petrol with Esso 99, which we have been told is the best fuel to use after such a long storage period, and we are ready to leave the quiet backroads of the New Forest. As wend our way through the traffic on the A31 west of Ringwood, we realise that being on Streak and Storm brings back all the positive feelings we have enjoyed over the last four trips. 2Slowspeeds are back!

We have no plans as to how far we might get on the first day, not departing till around 2:45 pm it might be the campsite a couple of miles beyond where we have been staying with Tansy.  Luckily traffic is fairly light and we are able to make good progress towards the western borders of Dorset.

A split second decision at a roundabout sees us descending towards the coast at Lyme Regis. Ignoring capacious “Park and Ride” facilities, we arrive in the centre of town, having navigated narrow streets without a sign of parking, an open gate and motorbikes are neatly parked along the sea wall in the centre of town. Perfect – we stop for tea. We will stop here for the night having covered only 65 ml / 102 km since 3pm.

Perfect waterfront parking in Lyme Regis

A campsite at Uplyme, which is over the border in Devon, provides us with a private location to set up the tent and we enjoy our first night on the road. An easy downhill walk to town for dinner and nice meal then sadly a long walk back to the campsite uphill! 

Our own private campsite

Anne had identified a couple of locations on Dartmoor National Park where we could see ancient forests, so this is our next destination. We have to cover a huge 50 ml. / 80 km in a day. Start slowly they say but this is ridiculous.  We do not even leave till 11:00 am.

For navigation, I am using what by now must be obsolete Garmin Montana GPS.  I was lucky enough to find that it contained the maps of the south west of England as I have long forgotten how to download the free maps from the internet and then upload them onto the GPS.

After a fast transit down the M5 and A38, we stop at Bovey Tracey, a quaint town on the eastern edge of Dartmoor.  This is a name Anne has difficulty remembering and I probably do not help by providing alternate names whenever asked so Anne would come up with Bony Tracy, Stinky Tracy etc.  Tourist Information provides us with useful local knowledge on where to camp and sells us an ordinance survey map of Dartmoor.  The size unfolded makes me think that it may be close to 1:1 scale, but it does contain an enormous amount of detail which could prove useful as we search for a campsite for the night.

Yarner Wood purchased in 1952 by nature conservancy becomes England’s first National Nature Reserve. We only take a short walk as the riding gear does impose some weight and heat limitations on our activities, which we had forgotten about, although I would not swap the blue skies for clouds while riding. We meet a local Ranger who suggests a better camping location than the one we already had. Thank you!

Yarner Wood walk

Dartmoor National park allows wild camping in certain areas as long as you camp away from the road and car parks to avoid use by campervans, for a maximum of two nights in any one location. With the directions provided by the ranger at Yarner Wood we come out of woodland with spectacular views in both directions – this will be the area to camp tonight.

Leafy Lanes on Dartmoor contrast with the open spaces.
“Storm” looking over Dartmoor.
Breathtaking view eastwards from campsite.

We lug, tent, sleeping bags, mats and camping chairs the prerequisite distance from the road. As advertised our location has stunning views eastwards over Yarner wood, Bovey Tracey and we can see as far as the sea some 20 miles/ 32 km away. This is perfect. No one else is camping near, we have the place to ourselves and the long summer evening to enjoy. Pure bliss, this is why we do what we do, for experiences like this.

All set for the evening, high on Dartmoor
Wild camping at its best

After a leisurely breakfast in Bovey Tracey, given the current dry conditions, we did not want to be known as the couple who started the great fire of Dartmoor in 2022 from using our camping stove.  Across the moor, yes video will follow, we wend our way towards Two Bridges in the centre of Dartmoor to visit Wistman’s Wood, another special woodland area. The roads are perfect for motorcycles: undulating, open vistas, steep climbs and descents, up to 25% in one case and yes Anne could smell my brake pads at the end of that one. 

Two Bridges is just that, two bridges and a hotel, nothing else added expect for the police radar van up the hill.  The speed limit on Dartmoor is just 40mph or 65kph which I would forget from time to time due to the beauty of the place.  “Honest officer I was just a little over”.  Will I have to check the mail for any offical “notice”?

The “old” bridge at Two Bridges

Having morning coffee, we meet a lovely gentleman who has just returned to motorcycling after many decades who we learn is on his first longer distance day outing. Great to see someone return to riding after such a long break.

First time out in Devon and enjoying it, good on ya

As I make a lunch booking at the hotel and I am mentally preparing for the fast walk to Wistman’s Wood, lunch and then ride to select a campsite when Anne, not wanting to rush her Wiseman’s Wood experience, suggests staying at the Two Bridges Hotel, appropriate for the Two Slow Speeds I suppose.  Her argument is very sound:  we had an un-repeatable experience last night, let us do something different tonight. 

At lunch we learn more about the local area from a member of staff who does guiding on the moors and suggests a route that will not only encompass Wistman’s Wood but three of the over 150 “Tors” on Dartmoor and a “stone throne” that locals like to say was the inspiration for “Game of Thrones”.  I asked about the interesting apparent overlap of “wild camping” areas and the military training ranges.  Yes they do and if you do not check before entering them you could have an unexpected interaction with the British Royal Marines.

The “Game of Thrones” chair?

Wistman’s Wood is made up of mostly “Quercus robur” or common oak, a bit of Latin for culture, in a granite bolder filled South West facing valley.  Here they grow to no more than 4.5m /15 ft. tall. What also makes it so interesting apart from the fact the trees survived being turned into firewood or fence posts is the variety, up to 120 species, of lichens that cover the trees giving Wistman’s Wood an almost mystical appearance. Visitors are asked not to enter as some of these lichens are slow growing and hundreds of years old. Our enthusiasm to explore and enjoy needs to be tempered with the damage we can cause just by our presence, no matter how well meaning. 

Anne with Wistman’s wood in the background
The lichen covering in Wistman’s wood
One of the inhabitants of Wistman’s wood
Closeup of lichens in Wistman’s wood

After a long and enjoyable walk and restful night’s sleep, we prepare for another long day in the saddle.  We are meeting friends Pat and Andy at the “Jamaica Inn” made famous by the book of the same name by author Daphne Du Maurier . Our adventures will continue in Cornwall about 20 ml / 32 km away.

– Anthony 

Family Exploring

Having been separated from family and friends in Europe for over two and a half years, we have wanted to spend time with them catching up as well as exploring familiar and new locations. Having sampled champagne, refreshed our riding skills and confirmed that the Eiffel Tower has not rusted away, it was time to explore some of what the south of England has to offer with family.

We had planned to go to Yorkshire to go down memory’s lane with Anne’s mother, but the weather forecast promised 3 days of heavy rain.  Quick change of plan and we decide to explore more of Kent instead.  Choosing a coastal destination in Kent gives one a plethora of options. From estuarine towns the Medway around to the White cliffs of Dover the choice varied, each with a long history and variety of attractions.

Our first trip was to Broadstairs, a town of which we had never been to before. It is located in an area called the Isle of Thanet. When I first cane across this name, I naively thought was there an island off the Kent coast of which I was unaware. In one sense, I was right. The area referred to  as Isle of Thanet, now a contiguous part of Kent, was in fact an island with, at one time, the Wantsum channel some 2,000 ft/ 600m wide separating it from the rest of Kent. This channel gradually silted up with the last recorded ship sailing through in 1672. Today the isle is firmly part of Kent, although rising sea levels could at some time in the future restore its island status.

Looking across the beach at Viking Bay, Broadstairs.

For those with a literary bent and interested in Charles Dickens, the English author visited Broadstairs frequently over a 20 year period from 1837. He wrote his book “David Copperfield” there. An annual Charles Dickens festival is held in Broadstairs every year in June.

Criminals can be found in all shapes and sizes.

Tenterden is a pretty town in mid Kent and of interest to me as one end of the Kent and East Sussex heritage railway. While not the reason for a visit this time, I am sure that the town benefits from such a tourist attraction. 

M’my and Anne enjoying the Main Street in Tenterden

I was interested to note that the Lemon Tree Restaurant in addition to providing good meals and service also looked to source as much of their food, including wine, as possible from local suppliers, not the cheapest conglomerate. We had hoped to visit a Kent winery and sample the reported excellent wines now coming out of Kent and Sussex, but “Road Closed” thwarted us. Another time.  

While travelling westwards towards Dorset to see my sister, lunchtime beckoned and we pulled into the car park of “The Selsey Arms” at Coolham which appeared from the outside to be just another english pub. Upon entering the pub, we are transported to another era. The walls are decorated with memorabilia including uniforms covering the short history and operation of RAF Coolham, a former Royal Air Force Advanced Landing Ground. RAF Coolham was built as part of Operation Overlord and was only operational from April 1944 to January 1945.   Units based there included 306 and 315 Polish squadrons which is reflected in many of the photographs and paintings. A fascinating slice of history, and the involvement of Polish flyers in WW2. The pub also has a gluten free fryer!

English village pub in Coolham
Interior of “The Selsey Arms” Coolham.

Refreshed and educated, we travel on to my sister’s in Verwood where a Aussie decorated welcome awaited us in case we were feeling a little homesick. I am not sure I like the inflatable shark circling above my head.  As long no “Jaws” movie music starts playing, I will be fine.

An Australian welcome in Dorset, watch of the Shark!

The weather for the past few weeks has been warm and sunny and provides an excellent opportunity to walk to along Hengistbury Head which provides good exercise and a fantastic view  of the Needles, a rock formation on the western end of Isle of Wight. For those who walk all the way to the beach beyond Hengistbury Head, a variety of food stalls will provide sustenance.   

Tansy, John and Anthony near Hengistbury Head, Dorset.
Hengistbury Head

Sunday morning saw a country drive for coffee at Compton Abbas airfield. An interesting name made up of  Saxon word “cumb-ton” meaning village in a narrow valley and  “abbas” meaning land owned by an abbess of an Abbey, Shaftsbury in this case.

A regular stream of two or four seater aircraft both landed and took off, joyrides, visitors and club members I presume, enjoying the beautiful weather and the fantastic views of the Dorset Downs. The location is a local stopping point for motorcyclists and car enthusiasts out for a Sunday drive with a well stocked coffee shop to refresh them before a homeward journey. Unusual aircraft include an Auster, Harvard and I believe a Boeing Stearman, my guess based mostly on the blue/yellow colour scheme.

Boeing Stearman taking off from Compton Abbas.

I was wondering what was the largest aircraft that this undulating grass airstrip could handle when right on cue in came a Pilatus PC-12, which is a single engined turboprop seating 6-8 passengers with a range of some 1500ml/2400km.   After landing, a single passenger disembarked with his briefcase and the plane then departed showing its excellent short take off capability.  An impressive sales advertisement for the PC-12.  An examination of the flightradar24 website showed the plane had come from Cannes to Bournemouth, customs and immigration I presume, then flown on to Compton Abbas some 25ml./ 40km away from Bournemouth Airport, presumably due to a dearth of taxis at Bournemouth Airport?

Only US$4 million for your own executive plane.

A wonderful couple of days with my sister and her family in Dorset comes to an end with a meal with some of her friends who have been aware of our motorcycle travels since the beginning. 

Now we we must prepare for re uniting Streak and Storm.

– Anthony

When I am looking for additional information on a place or event for this blog, My search often leads to Wikipedia to enhance my scribing.  I must thank all those who contribute to Wikipedia, for taking the time and effort to document a small piece of history or knowledge that otherwise may be inaccessible to many or worse lost. This makes our world a richer place for the authors efforts.