Sep 21 2025

Barents to Baltic

Nordkaap, the most northerly point in Europe that one can easily access by road and a magnet for adventure motorcyclists heading to this part of Norway. Sadly we will not be able to join those other intrepid riders’ celebrations on the culmination or start of their journeys as we are in the comfort of four wheels.

Awaking in Honningsvåg, we are again blessed with better weather than forecast. Glimpses of blue sky and no rain as opposed to the grim cloud and rain all day on the app. A leisurely breakfast is interrupted by the blast of an arriving cruise ship horn, masses of tourists with the same destination as us: Nordkapp. Swiftly to the car and out of town heading across Magerøya Island. While appearing barren without a single tree to be seen, the landscape abounds with grasses, lichens and mosses in a carpet of woven greens, browns and reds. Climbing higher, we see Skipsfjorden and Tufjorden, both fjords, long fingers of water that have provided safe havens for ships in time of storms.

Standing near the Nordkapp Globus monument looking out over the calm Barents Sea, our timing could not be better: blue skies and sunshine – our luck continues. The obligatory photos are taken at the monument with the visitors giving each other time to get that memorable photo. Mist then envelops the building behind us and out of the mist, the cruise ship hordes eerily appear. Time to depart.

At the Globus looking over the Barents Sea

We return via the small fishing village of Skarsvåg. Here reindeer do wander the streets, a single coffee shop is open and we are the only visitors. The summer season is over and tourist related facilities are closing or have closed. Our hotel’s restaurant had closed for the season the night before we arrived.

One thing we have noticed, both in the open areas and forests away from the coast, is the absence of bird song – always very quiet. I do not know if it is the time of year or that few birds live this far north.

To leave Magerøya Island, one travels through a seven kilometre long tunnel that descends for three kilometres from each entrance at an angle of 9-10%. I will let you do the math on how deep that is. I am always watching for leaks! A sign warns of “Fog in Tunnel” and they are correct. Quite weird but I am sure there is science to explain that.

The road follows the shoreline of Norway’s fourth longest fiord, the Porsanger, which stretches for 123 km. / 76 ml. And it takes over an hour driving to leave the fiord and the Barents sea behind. The next sea we see, will be the Baltic, hence the title.

Anne has never visited Sweden and is one country behind me as I snuck in Qatar, which Anne had previously visited, on the way to Europe in April. Our route today allowed a crossing into Sweden for a new minutes on Swedish soil, so we are all square again. ( it does not count says Anne).

Overnight near the ski resort of Levi where we see last year’s ski slope snow piled up under white covers and will be used to form the foundation for this season’s ski slopes. This helps form a good base for the first snowfall of the season. I had read about this phenomenon but never seen it. Amazing how so much snow can last for the whole summer.

Ski run base all ready for the new season

At dinner as usual we see that many meals in Finland are both Lactose and Gluten Free, usually signified by an “L” & “G” on the description. Great for both of us.

Back to Rovaniemi the next morning where we started journey by road to the North. The night sleeper takes us back to Helsinki, but not quite as comfortably as I had hoped. I am looking forward to a good long massage when we get to Thailand.

Our train back to Helsinki courtesy of Santa

Our luxury overnight cabin with snacks and single malt whisky

Our train’s silhouette as the sun goes down.

Helsinki train station – with only the Ukrainian flag flying

An early arrival sees us at our Hilton Hotel, thanks to Diamond status, we are able check into our room by 7:30am! Membership of Hilton Honors does pay dividends.

We spend the morning as it rained sorting the contents of the four suitcases, three of which handily stayed at the hotel during our travels. A last trip in the afternoon to central Helsinki saw us wander amongst the food and produce stalls at the waterfront. One stall-holder kindly spent time explaining the different berries and mushrooms and how to use them in cooking even though we could purchase nothing. A last glimpse at the Baltic sea and we have completed Barents to Baltic.

Roberts Coffee in a converted Art Deco Bank building on Pohjoisesplanadi Helsinki

Art Deco work on Pohjoisesplanadi Helsinki

This fresh grilled fish outdoor stall looked delicious

Colourful street stall on Market Square Helsinki

Our time in Finland has come to an end. We have enjoyed our time immensely, seen and done more than we expected. We would like to return in winter to see the transformation the snow makes, but that will have to wait for another time. From the tranquility of the Finnish countryside, we are heading to the metropolis of Bangkok where the temperature will double and the sounds, smells and tastes of Asia will assail us – should be great.

– Anthony

Sep 17 2025

Sámi country

Well that is a hard act to follow – the northern lights performed as if on command for Anne, with a side showing for me. A real privilege to see such beauty dancing across the skies. But on we must…..

“The last day of summer today, then 10 months of winter”. We heard those chilling words from a local as we prepared to head further north into Lapland. We have the freedom and flexibly of a hire car for the next week and dual objectives, firstly to learn more about Sámi, the name of the indigenous people of Lapland, culture then secondly see the northern lights again. The second already achieved even though the weather forecasts seemed to rule this out.

Reindeer!! We see our first reindeer beside the road; so exciting. No place to stop so onward we go, more reindeer ahead and a place to pull over. Lots of photos, however the novelty wears off and we are now experienced reindeer viewers and ignore many sightings unless they are perfectly positioned for photos.

Young bucks learning to duel as autumn approaches

Our accommodation outside Inari is a beautiful log cabin at the Wilderness Hotel Inari, right on the water’s edge with stunning views over lake Inari. Our own log fire and sauna are included with enough firewood to keep us warm day and night. A clever combined match and fire-lighter make starting easy. A warm fire and a sauna, what a great combination, luckily the wrong season for rolling in the snow.

The rain has held off again and we walked to Inari, the colours of autumn are all around us, further north we travelled we have found more and more silver birch leaves have turned yellow.

SIIDA is the Sámi Museum and Northern Lapland Nature Centre in Inari which has interesting and informative displays on Lapland, plus outdoors there are number of buildings that have been brought to site. They have also recreated a number animal traps showing both ingenuity and engineering skills.

Outdoor Sámi display of traditional houses

A tour of the Sámi Parliament was both informative and interesting to see how an indigenous culture interacts with national government. Similar Sámi parliaments exist in Norway and Sweden. Less is known about interactions within Russia. We learned there are five Sámi sub groups and three Sámi languages, Northern Sámi, Skolt Sámi and Inari Sámi. All three languages can be used in the Finnish Sámi Parliament. The full Parliament meets four times a year and provides advice to and negotiates with the Finnish government of affairs that impact the Sámi people.

Inside Sajos, the Sámi Parliament chamber with relief artwork “Eatnu-Eadni-Eana” (Stream-Mother-Ground) by Outi Piesk

Traditional Sámi handicraft of reindeer antler bones, tin wire and bead embroidery

A series of paintings quite cleverly in some cases indicated the dos and don’ts of tourism as it pertains to Sámi culture.

Sustainable tourism vs careless tourism.

AI and dog sledding. Now here is an interesting combination. When I searched Google for “were dog sleds ever used in Lapland”, AI gives me this:

Google AI overview. “Yes, dogs sleds were historically a crucial form of transportation for hunting and travel in Lapland, and remain a popular cultural activity and tourist attraction today. This centuries-old tradition was a primary way for the Sami people, the indigenous inhabitants of the region, and others to navigate the vast, snowy landscapes of the Arctic”

Sadly this is incorrect: we learned during our tour of the Sámi Parliament in Inari that Sámi used reindeer dogs for herding, but not huskies. Reindeer were used to haul loads. Sled dogs, used by eskimos in North America, are a relatively recent introduction boosted by foreign tourism and not always done to the benefit of locals or the dogs. The proliferation of such tourist organisations and descriptive websites using borrowed traditions likely leads to this not unreasonable conclusion by Google AI. How much other information we are presented with by AI could have evolved by similar means? I will try to follow up with Google on this, supposedly there is a way to do this.

The proliferation of these dogs also has the potential to interfere with the reindeer herders’ livelihood we were told.

After Inari we still had three and a half days of car hire left. Where to go? After pouring over maps, comparing options, further north it is – how far, we are dependant on the weather, and yes rain is forecast again.

Once again, we are lucky with the weather and cross into Norway. We have decided to go all the way to Nordkapp or North Cape as we call it. We make good progress, just an initial challenge is the lack a centreline on many Norwegian main roads, just edging dashes causing a few interesting moments as we adjusted to this with oncoming motorhomes or trucks. As we head northwards the trees gradually give way to open landscape and stunning views.

No centre line, but two lanes wide, just.

Nordkapp awaits for us tomorrow.

– Anthony

Sep 15 2025

Tulikettu

A popular Finnish myth tells of a magical arctic firefox (“tulikettu” in Finnish) with a large furry tail that would sweep across the Arctic fells and tundra, creating sparks that lit up the sky or “fire foxes” which the northern lights are known as in Finland.

For anyone who has had the priviledge of seeing the Aurora Borealis (or the Aurora Australis in the southern hemisphere), you can imagine that sweeping tail. The aurora seems to be dancing above your head, all around you.

The aurora is best seen at night from autumn to spring but is never guaranteed. You can get a clear night, but the geomagnetic fluctuations (measured by a magnetometer over a 3 hour period and rated as KP index from 0 to 9 with 9 representing the most intense geomagnetic storm) are not sufficient to create the northern lights. The Kp-Index – derived from the German “Planetarische Kennziffer meaning “Planetary Index” – is a measure of geomagnetic activity in the Earth’s atmosphere. Similarly, you could have the perfect conditions, with a high KP index rating but have an overcast night and you won’t get to see the lights.

We are staying in a log cabin on the edge of a lake for 3 nights just outside Inari, really hoping we get to see the northern lights but the weather forecast is not looking good.

Still, fingers crossed…. Inari is pinned on my Aurora app, showing the forecast % cloud cover by the hour and KP index for the next 24 hours. Using that app and AccuWeather to see the actual cloud cover and rain movements, my alarm clock is set for 10pm when the rain clouds are meant to clear, 3am and 4am when a KP index of 5 is forecast!

After an unexpected beautiful clear day, the massive rain front coming up from the south is making its way up to us very fast and suddenly, the sky is completely overcast. Not looking good for a sky show later tonighth. Oh well, time for a sauna then.

Looking the other way: the weather from the south is getting to us

The predicted rain arrives on cue, still raining as 10pm approaches. Ever the optimist, I walk outside just after 10pm – the stars are visible!! There are some clouds still. Clouds? No, clouds don’t move so fast and eratically. It is a faint aurora! Anthony has to see this. By the time we are both outside, the aurora colours are clearly visible through the phone even if not strong to the naked eye. And the sky is dancing!

What a show we get.

An hour later, we call it a day and decide to catch some sleep before 3am. The activity is much stronger and the aurora is moving quite fast, making it very difficult to capture on our mobile phones – these blurry photos do not justice to what nature put on for us that night.

By 4am, the sky was overcast but the KP index strong enough to show the strong aurora activity. What would have the sky looked like without that cloud cover!

Nature has a way of making you feel insignificant and grateful to be alive to witness such beauty.

– Anne

Sep 12 2025

Back to Finland

With Christmas fast approaching, the opportunity to secure a favourable rating from Santa should not be overlooked. I understand that he lives outside Rovaniemi, located on the Arctic Circle in central Finland and since Anne has always wanted to spend time in the Finnish countryside, what a great chance to combine our two objectives.

With our not inconsiderable amount of baggage in tow, we head to the Heathrow Terminal 4 Hilton hotel, a quick drive to return the car to Hertz and back turns into a saga of epic proportions as an emergency closes Terminal 4 which in turn stops all transport. How will I get back to the Hilton Executive lounge before happy hour closes at 7pm? The answer is I did not but Anne had secured me a large glass of wine in advance. It turns out half the lounge knows of the Terminal 4 closure and my delay and want to hear my story. Not too exciting but I shared a taxi between terminals with a Maltese woman trying to catch a flight home.

Next morning, after a filling breakfast with great service, we realise after the effort of getting four suitcases, two carry on bags and a motorcycle helmet from the room to the lobby that taking the train between terminals is completely impractical. An excellent taxi ride with a local driver, who educated us about in-flight catering as he was previously a General Manager in that industry. Helsinki here we come.

Finnair A350-900 OH-LWD ready to take us to Helsinki.

We have a relaxing evening in the Executive lounge at the Helsinki Airport Hilton, then after an early breakfast, which starts there at 3am which is far to early for us, we board a local train to Helsinki Station

Helsinki Airport snippets from performances by the Finnish National Opera and Ballet’s repertoire

There we wait the IC 23 to take us to Oulu. Here we will transfer to a bus onward to Rovaniemi due to daytime track work. We have chosen seats on the double decker train above the buffet car. Included in our ticket is all you can drink tea, coffee and hot chocolate, yummmmm….

Internet connectivity on Finland Trains, very helpful

The suburbs behind us, the landscape changes – patches of Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris), Norway spruce (Picea abies), and Silver Birch (Betula pendula), thanks Wikipedia. The Silver Birch is also Finland’s national tree.

The forests are interspersed with fields covered with golden stubble. The crops are harvested and the hay already safely stored for winter. Blue skies have accompanied us all the way. It is interesting, as a railway buff, that much of the lumber is removed by rail not road. We pass many sidings with railway wagons loaded with logs ready for shipment to distant factories.

Upper Premium section with individual swivel chairs

Comfortable seats, food delivered to you, glorious scenery, the only downside is that when you see an interesting track meandering into the distance you cannot stop and explore. Due to daytime track-work the last three hours to Rovaniemi are by bus. We are happy to arrive at our Airbnb and settle in. We stock up at the local supermarket while navigating unfamiliar product names.

A walk down to the waterfront and we find a group of five girls dressed in pink badge covered overalls. Hens night? Birthday Party? No, turns out they are third year art students, hence pink colour, from the local university manning a checkpoint for first year students undertaking an initiation course. We learn that Law students wear burgundy (dark red), grey for accountants perhaps? Just kidding. The overalls were introduced in the 1960’s.

University art students in customary pink overalls

Ever wondered what Rudolf and his friends did for the rest of the year? We can confirm they work as Uber drivers in Rovaniemi in the off season.

Santa’s reindeer hard at work in the off season.

When we arrived in Finland the weather forecast was for rain, rain and more rain where we’re heading. We had resigned ourselves to this, but so far, each morning the forecast changed and we have had mostly sunny days. We take advantage of this and we walk to the Arktikum Science Centre and Museum.

Along the river in Rovaniemi, different Lapland rock explained

Here we get hope to get a better understanding of the region we will be exploring for the next week. Worth the time to give us background on not only the environment but the culture and learn about some of those who made their lives here such as Hildur Larsson whose work and life are exhibited here.

Photographer Hildur Larsson (9/9/1882-3/5/1952)

By Hildur Larsso. Clever use of a steam locomotive in winter

Look up to see where a Polar Bear can reach!

Blue sky again the next day, what luck. While we have been to a number of northern climes before including Alaska, Siberia and Iceland we realise that we have never crossed the Arctic circle. Visiting Santa will mean that we finally cross over to the other side.

Anne inside the Arctic Circle for the first time

Meeting Santa in his home for the first time could be daunting, but Santa quickly puts you at ease. We chatted briefly about Queensland and did check that our nephews and my sister, who had asked, were on the good’ list, “Mostly” said Santa, so those three should have a good Christmas this year.

Time well spent with Santa with Christmas in sight.

It is amazing to think that half a million letters are sent to Santa each year at his official post office that is part of the Finnish Postal Service. The letters wend their way here with many different addresses from countries as diverse as Andorra and Zambia. No post code required for these letters!

Probably the only address that gets all its letters

After lunch we take a walk looking for a husky dog centre, sadly it does not open till November. I think we are between seasons, summer is waining, but winter not established yet. Probably a good time to take a break although there are many motor homes and a few coaches around.

Anne spies a walking track and we are off exploring. Autumn colours and textures abound as we walk through the forrest. A large map shows that tracks for walking and skidoo riding run for tens of kilometres in all directions. Must be amazing in winter just zooming along on the snow. Perhaps a winter visit?

Tomorrow we pick up a car and head further north, Reindeer, Polar Bears and Icebergs?, who knows what we will see.

– Anthony

PS. Recently, as many will be aware of, there has been some controversy over the incorporation of mushrooms, especially in dishes like beef wellington. Anne has recently taken an renewed interest in mushrooms. I have found the following photos on her phone, all taken here in Finland.

I also noted the following flavour of crisps for sale in Finland.

Probably not likely to be a big seller in Australia.

Should I have any concerns?

Aug 31 2025

Three days in Oxfordshire

Thursday afternoon Passport Control in rural Oxfordshire? Well sort of: we have just arrived at the Overland Event. Due to my lack of social media exposure, I was not aware of the Overland Event’s existence until Anne suggested attending so have no idea what to expect.

At “Passport Control”, we are swiftly registered, gain multi coloured wrist bands and follow then back on the bikes, follow the signs “Motorcycles only” to a large camping area where a multitude of different coloured tents are being busily erected. With rain forecast, we quickly get our faithful Jack Wolfskin tent up and all our gear stowed inside out of the rain.

Glorious camping weather, when the sun shines.

The Overland Event has been held annually since 2015, except for 2024 to allow the organiser time to take his own trip, a gathering of like minded motorcycle travellers, sharing knowledge and experiences while camping out for three days. Only 500 tickets are made available so the numbers are not overwhelming as can be the case at similar events. Up to three streams of presentations, stands and famous motorcycles on exhibit will keep us fully occupied.

A number of adventure rider luminaries will be here, including Ted Simon, Sam Manicon, Tiffany Coates, Michelle Lamphere and Kinga Tanajewska (from On Her Bike). The first three we have met before at Overland Expo West in Arizona in 2017. Others Anne has been in contact with over the years but never met in person.

As we walk towards the main precinct we note styles of tents range from one man bivouacs to palatial mansion sized tents that require their own sidecar to transport them. While many of the motorcycles were BMW GS’s I only noticed two identical tents.

While the hardier amongst us had their own stoves for cooking, various tasty food trucks and variety of on tap beers and ciders were more than enough for me.

The opening welcome was quite a clever icebreaker, people had been asked to send in interesting motorcycling photos and then explain them to the audience in a few minutes. A good variety, great stories involved everything from cranes and winches to dead badgers!

How did the three days go? Friday morning was raining and few stirred early, us included. Coffee and breakfast dragged us from the tent and then off to explore.

I had expected to spend my time in presentations, but kept meeting people, got talking and time just flew by. Nigel who camped next to us had just finished a RTW which had seen him in Kashmir when Pakistan and India squared off recently.

Noel had ridden from India via Iran, but tourist rule changes after the Israeli attacks make the return home to India more problematic. Chloe had problems shipping her small Honda back so dismantled it in her hotel room and packed it into three suitcases. So many great stories and inspirational riders.

Chloe’s suitcase bike partially reassembled for the event.

Saturday morning the sun was out and we were awake early, seems we were giving a presentation! Somehow Anne’s offer to present if they had a cancellation and our recent visit to Algeria gained the organisers’ attention and so we are up at 9:00am. We had only finished the powerpoint slides the night before but were unsure of who our audience would be and how to pitch the presentation. We knew that at least three people we had met the day before would turn up, but were pleased to have a fairly full room. Positive comments afterwards allayed our fears and we hope that some may one day visit Algeria and enjoy the same hospitality that we did.

Fabulous surprise finally meeting Tracy
Charles in person

All the presenters, including the 2slowspeeds.

There is a great community spirit at this event, well known presenters can be found making breakfast rolls. People are happy to share their knowledge and experiences with others. We even had a Singaporean couple who had ridden to the event from home taking 15 months and covering 55,000 miles / 80,000 km. Sadly one rider coming from India had his motorbike and all possessions stolen near Nottingham two days previously. The motorcycle community rallied and he immediately got several offers of loan bikes, new gear etc. He was eventually gifted a brand new KTM by The Off Road Centre store. What a fabulous community.

Sunday we packed up and the motorcycling adventures will pause for a little while. I am glad we attended the Overland Event and certainly would again.

– Anthony

2slowspeeds

Loving life – Turning Dreams into Memories

Category General

Barents to Baltic

Sámi country

Tulikettu

Back to Finland

Three days in Oxfordshire

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