Road Trip………Part 1 Maine to Indiana

We had last been in the State of Maine in 2015 as we approached the end of RTW1. We only just crossed the state border to try the delicious lobster at Fox’s Lobster House in York County.  We were now going to visit our godsons who we had not seen since December 2019 in Singapore. Quite a change of location. Our route from London to Portland Maine took us via Philadelphia Airport for the first time.  With only two international flights arriving at the time, immigration and customs was a breeze.  Worth considering the less busy entry points into the USA.

Alicia whisked us away from the airport to their home and giving us a chance re connect with Alicia, Michael and especially our godsons.  My, had they grown!  The teen years see so much change that the almost three years have made such a difference. It was great to see them both again. A whirlwind three days saw us visit their lake house, take in a school soccer match to see Connor play: they won against stiff opposition and the standard was much higher than either of us was expecting plus a visit Portland city and some of the surrounding beaches. Not for swimming I hasten to add.

Anne and Alica at the lakeside.
The winning soccer team.
Our gorgeous godsons Ronan (centre) and Connor (right) and their mum Alicia

Without the historic monument, there would be no visible record of the shipbuilding that took place in Portland during WW2. A significant number of “Liberty Ships” built here and I did not know that they were based on a modified British Ocean class design!  While I do read up on the internet after visiting such sites for the blog, one can always gain snippets of interesting concise information from the signboards at such sites. 

Liberty Ship Memorial, Portland
A snippet of information on WW2 Liberty ships

Towering over Historic downtown Portland is “Voyager of the Seas”, a massive Royal Caribbean cruise ship, similar to the one my niece worked on and would have visited here. While the ships disgorge their passengers into the surrounding streets, there seem to be enough attractions to absorb them.

Cruise ship ” Voyager of the Seas” docked in Portland.

We gravitate towards Blyth and Burrows, an inn of good repute where we are educated by a skilled mixologist into the art of making clear ice shapes, not as easy as you would think and introduced us to the pleasures of freshly smoked bourbon cocktails.  The latter needs to be explored further.

We tried the “Ship Captain Crew”

I am not a cocktail drinker normally but this mixture of unusual ingredients had a great taste and if I was to return here I might try other cocktails on the list.

Smoking our bourbon cocktail
Smoked Bourbon cocktail

In America we find ice is the norm in drinks, but not like this. Clear shaped ice cubes! A mold that makes giant glass filling diamond shaped clear ice cubes. We learn that there is a process involved in preparing the water and then the results go into a special mold. I had visions of impressing my friends back in Australia with this until a quick check of the cost of the very heavy mold was over US$350. Oh well back to ice cubes from the fridge for us.

Wait for it…..
….surprise! The diamond ice cube is pressed and ready
Look at the clarity of this ice cube!

When we looked at the options to visit our friends in Indiana and Texas we had decided to drive all the way from Maine to Houston rather than fly to each location dragging our baggage with us.  We would get a car that could hold all our luggage in the boot/trunk and look to visit new points of interest on the way.  When we turned up at Hertz at Portland Airport we were told to look at three options they had for us.  The first an economical compact with no space to store all the luggage out of sight.  The second a sensible mid size Japanese car with all the latest driver assist features and then there was…

We are on the road again!

Dodge Challenger.  No choice really, ROAD TRIP……

Before you petrol heads start salivating too much, it was not the 5.7L Hemi V8, but the slightly more sedate 3.6L V6.  All I can say, it was an inspired choice, lots of fun to drive, comfortable and all our baggage fitted out sight. Brand new with a couple of hundred miles on the clock.   In two and a half weeks we added 3,680 miles / 5,800 kilometres.  I am sure we have trashed any environmental credentials we may have laid claim to from riding frugal motorcycles and yes electric cars accelerate quicker etc etc, but how long will you be able to drive a petrol “muscle car” before they are all consigned to history?

To make the most of the changing fall scenery we decided to start by driving on the back roads to Vermont. The colours had Anne wanting to stop and take photographs every few minutes it seemed, possibly a little exaggeration, but I could see her point. One could spend a week watching the foliage changing.

Colours everywhere
More fall colours
Molly Stark State Park, Vermont
Stunning fall colours up close.
Very early halloween decorations
ALL STOP for the School bus, in all directions. Not a bad idea.

While back roads give a much richer view of the countryside, they are slower and we only progressed as far as Albany New York in a day – Interstate highways will have to form a bigger part of our travel plans going forward.  In the USA, unlike much of Europe, the Interstate highways/Motorways gas/petrol stations are situated either at off ramps or in local towns.  It does give one the opportunity to explore small towns rather than just wiz past the exit signs.  Little Falls was our choice and as we wandered around the town after filling up we learned that this had once been the cheese capital of NY state. Sadly from an employment perspective those days are long gone and only repurposed factories and historic signs give a clue to its once interesting past.  The Erie Canal bypassed the falls here and probably helped in the export of cheese.   

The Mohawk river at Little Falls.
Little Falls Cheese news

It is said that oil and water do not mix, how about waterfalls and flames? This quirk of nature is found the Eternal Fame Falls near Hamburg New York. Another of Anne’s finds due to her diligent research while I just drive on cruise control. Anne spends a great deal of time looking for interesting places to stop at on the way to add to the enjoyment of the journey.  A walk through the fall foliage with leave falling and squirrels scurrying around was the gateway to this unique feature. I am clueless as to what we are looking for, following the flame signs on the trees we descend to the riverbed and head upstream. After splashing through ponds, we can confirm that Goretex is great for boots, climb over tree trunks, we arrive. It is surreal and enchanting, something you would expect in “Lord of the Rings”. I expect an elf or wizard to appear, but alas none do. It is a magical spot with the small strongly burning flame flickering behind the waterfall. Well worth taking the time to visit.

Walking through the forest to get to the eternal flame.
Eternal Flame waterfall

In this modern world of concrete and steel who would expect to find a wooden covered bridge, built in 1983 in Ohio a few miles off Interstate 90.  Another thumbs up to Anne’s research and choices.  When one walks over the bridge, the intricacies of the wooden construction become apparent. I guess the advantage over steel and concrete is that you can replace each part one at a time. Would they replace it with another wooden bridge or have the skills been lost?  

State Road Covered Bridge over Conneaut Creek in Ohio
Covered Bridge details

With the Mid Term Senate and House of Representatives coming up in the USA we see so many “Vote” signs across the country.  Elections were not only at national level but local judges, sheriffs and probably dog catchers are advertising. The largest we saw was the side of a 40’ container, possibly explains the global shortage if this is being repeated across the county.  It has been interesting talking to people about their views on the politics in the USA which has made me realise that what I read and see is only part of the story that my news sources want me to see.  I guess it is the same everywhere, it’s hard to get an unbiased view of what is happening on the ground. I do find it sad that it seems to me that dialog and debate between the political views has evaporated yet those we meet would like that discourse to return.

Larger than life voting posters

Rather than spend another night along side an Interstate highway we head to Marblehead known for its famous lighthouse on the shore of Lake Erie. As we stand at the base of the lighthouse looking East I find it hard to imagine that there is no land for over 280kms. / 170 mls.  It feels more like an ocean than a lake. I wonder how long our day’s drive along the lake would take to sail?

Enjoying the sunset at Marblehead lighthouse
Lake Erie at sunset looking East

As you may be aware, we think that every place has a story to tell. Antwerp Ohio. We wanted somewhere quiet to eat lunch away from the roar of Interstate traffic. In the local park we discovered that local donations had built the children playground, something that a small community could not afford but we in Australia would expect the local government to provide.  I imagine this approach works where individuals can afford to make the donations.

The town also has a memorial to all those Veterans in the community who have served in the US military from the American Civil War to Afghanistan.  A nice gesture to those who have seen active service. 

Antwerp Ohio, Veterans memorial

After four days of exploring and driving we arrive in Indiana to see our Amish friends, but that is another blog.

– Anthony

Family goodbyes

It is now end of September (yes, we are a month behind in our blogs) and after 2 and a half months in Europe, it is time to say our goodbyes to our family.  My plan had been to create new memories, especially for my parents whom we had not seen in over two and half years.  The more we age, the more realise that the most precious thing in life is time with our loved ones, family especially but friends too. 

It was our choice to move to Australia all those decades ago for our careers, so we always felt it only normal to return to visit family every year.  We have tried different “formulas” over the years.  The quick visits while we worked were exhausting emotionally with successive highs and lows every few days – the high of the reunion, quickly followed by a heart-wrenching goodbye until next year.  Then another time we hired a farmhouse where everyone came to visit. Us being retired, my parents not travelling so much these days, and our not having seen family for so long, we decided this year to have a prolonged stay in Europe, making several visits, to see my parents, one lives in the UK and the other in France, to make several new memories.  Covid has a lot to answer for as the pain of being separated for so long weighed heavily with each visit as if we hadn’t seen each other for years.  What is the best way to handle family visits when they are so far away (one could probably say we’re the ones who are far away), split and scattered?  We had originally thought of renting a place for an extended period both in the UK and France.  Maybe that is the best option for next time?  Any ideas are gratefully accepted.

Don’t get me wrong, we had a wonderful trip, we were constantly and thoroughly spoilt by everyone and loved every minute.  

We saw both my parents and our sisters one last time before leaving Europe end of September and a few more friends we hadn’t managed to connect with yet.  We sincerely apologise to those we missed on this trip.  An unplanned and spontaneous bonus was my spending our last week end in Paris, just my sister Diane and me while Anthony got to see his sister Tansy again too, together nieces and nephew.

My mum, dad, and our sisters

Although I spent my childhood in Northern France, my roots are in Paris, where I was born.  It is visceral and undeniable. When Anthony suggested I spend those days in Paris, I immediately thought of asking my sister to join me. Just the two of us.  Being an avid art enthusiast and keen walker, I had a few “serving suggestions” that would see us visit museums and exhibitions and walk the streets of Paris and try a numer of restaurants. It is easy to walk 13 kms in a day in Paris when you keep stopping to admire the buildings, architecture, sculptures and chat non stop.  We start our Paris experience with champagne, of course, at La Coupole – a stunning art deco brasserie near the gare Montparnasse followed by the most delicious crêpe either of us have ever eaten at Le Petit Josselin nearby.  This was a great start to our sisters week end!   Diane picked a superb restaurant for our first night:  Pouliche.  They have a set menu but gladly amended it to cater for my lactose intolerance.  Add this restaurant to your next visit – you won’t be disappointed!  

Our starters at Pouliche restaurant

The next day, going from the Musee Guimet for a pottery exhibition and admire the building’s art deco architecture, walking up to Alma Marceau along the Seine, up to the magnificient Pont Alexandre III, then onto the quirkiest place: 59 rue de Rivoli.  It houses an ecclectic group of artists, each in their own open studio, over 6 floors!  

Yu Tanaka sculpture – Musée Guimet, Toucher le Feu exhibition

Yu Tanaka sculpture – Musée Guimet, Toucher le Feu exhibition

Yoshimi Futamura sculpture – Musée Guimet, Toucher le Feu exhibition

Oh well, can’t get the Eiffel Tower in our selfie!

AfterSquat, 59 rue de Rivoli

Each level had different staircase artwork

My moto – Aftersquat, 59 rue de Rivoli

Neither of us could pass up the opportunity of walking to St Germain des Près and enter its beautiful abbey.  

Abbaye de Saint Germain des Prés

Abbaye de Saint Germain des Prés

The Musée Maillol had a hyperrealism exhibition.  What made this exhibition particularly interesting is that they intersperced hyperealism sculptures amongst their “traditional” art.  

Musée Maillol – Hyperrealism exhibition

Musée Maillol – Hyperrealism exhibition

This was followed by a visit to the Jardins du Luxembourg before lunch at Dammann Frères in the collorful and vibrant Rue Mouffetard.  Sweet tea followed at the Grande Mosque of Paris before dinner at the Coupole.  

Jardins du Luxembourg

Rue Mouffetard

Diane’s serving suggestion took us to the Ateliers des Lumières where they were showing Cezanne and Kadinsky – a fabulous show, presenting classic pieces in immersive music and video.  A final meal near the Place des Voges before returning to the UK and making my 5th and final visit to my mother the next day.

Cezanne at Atelier des Lumières

Thank goodness for whatsapp video or skype!  Goodbyes are hard but we can at least easily stay in touch even if we can’t physically hug.  We have had an amazing time in Europe but it’s time for us to make our slow way home, via the US.  Until next time…

– Anne

4’ 8½”, 15”, 7¼”

As some readers will be aware I have always had an interest in trains.  Perhaps it comes from having been born in the United Kingdom, the birthplace of railways, who knows. In Australia, I am a card carrying member of the Brisbane Bayside Steam Railway (BBSR) – a 5” and 7¼” gauge railway so on the lookout to see what other railways are doing especially in the area of ballasting which I am involved in. I am hoping that the membership card will carry some weight when talking to or trying to gain access to non-public areas.

In the UK, there is a thriving heritage railway network. Across the country, around 100 groups have saved or restored railway lines closed as a result of the Beeching cuts in the mid 1960’s.  Over the years we have visited a few when in the UK including the Swanage Railway, the Strathspey Railway and the North Yorkshire Moors Railway.

While in the UK this time, I was lucky enough to be able to visit three steam railways, each on a different gauge, hence the title, and I decided to group the visits together in a single post for those interested in railways to read.

The Bluebell Railway in Sussex is one of the best known heritage railways in the UK.  Thus while returning to Kent after riding Streak & Storm, I was able to plot a route close to Sheffield Park Station, the southern terminus of the railway.  I had never visited the Bluebell Railway before and just wanted to see what was there.  Fortuitously, the last train of the day was about to leave and just as had happened in October 2019 on the Strathspey Railway, they held the train while we purchased tickets. With the fire risk from summer heatwave, our train was pulled by a diesel locomotive, not steam. En-route to Horsted Keynes we passed a burnt out field believed to be caused by burning coals from a steam locomotive earlier in the week.  As someone who volunteers on Brisbane Bayside Steam Railway (BBSR), we are familiar with the fire risk from coal and take appropriate precautions.

 

Sheffield Park Station looking north from the footbridge.
First Class all the way with Anne
Our 0-6-0 Diesel loco D4106
Beautiful Sussex fields from the train.
Line side fires on Bluebell Railway.

At Horsted Keynes we are able to see British Railways Class 5 loco in action pulling a wedding train! You get changing scenery while you celebrate the wedding reception.  A great way to get additional income for the railway. They also let me onto the locomotive cab. A great experience.

 

BR Standard 2-6-0 loco 73082 “Camelot”
Driver and Fireman of 73082 “Camelot”
Lucky to get time in the cab of 73082 “Camelot”.

My second outing, courtesy of my brother in law Jeremy, was to the Romney Hythe and Dymchurch Railway (RH&DR).  Located on the south Kent coast, this 15” railway which opened in 1927 was the the brainchild of Captain J. E. P. Howey and Count Louis Zborowski who wanted to run 1/3 size steam locomotives at mainline scale speeds. Sadly, the Count was killed in a motor racing accident before the railway opened but Captain Howey pushed ahead with the project.  The locomotives were designed by Henry Greenly and built by Davy Paxman and Co. in Colchester.

The railway was designed to run at 25 mph and between Hythe and New Romney dual track helped facilitates this. During WW2 they even had an armoured train running on the line. At one time the RH&DR used to take children to school.

Jeremy had carefully planned the day to allow us time to a visit a number of locations.  Our journey starts at Hythe Station with anticipation to see which of the dozen locomotives will be pulling our first train.  It turns out to be No. 2 “Northern Chief”.

RHDR No. 2 “Northern Chief” on the turntable at Hythe.

The day has been overcast with some rain but we bravely or foolishly take the open carriage.  This way we get more of the steam train experience.  The weather Gods are kind to us and our journey to New Romney sees no rain.  At New Romney we are lucky enough to meet the Engineering Manager who gives us a tour of the engine shed. There is also a large HO gauge railway layout to see here as well.

 

Our guide around the RHDR Engine Shed at New Romney.
RH&DR New Romney engine shed with No. 9 ”Winston Churchill”.
RH&DR No. 1 “Green Goddess” waits for No. 2 “Northern Chief” at New Romney.

Onward to Dungeness, which is the end of the line, this time with a different locomotive: No 1. “Green Goddess”. As the rain beat against the roof and windows of our enclosed carriage, we knew we had made the right choice.  At Dungeness, the old lighthouse contracts with the now closed Nuclear Power Stations.  “A” which consisted on two 250 MWe, opened in 1965 and reached their end of life in 2006. “B”  which consisted of two 520 MWe, opened in the mid 1980’s and both units shut down in 2018.  Interesting how the RH&DR railway has been in existence from long before the nuclear power stations and likely to continue long afterwards their closure.

Dungeness old lighthouse and decommissioned A & B nuclear power stations.
RHDR No. 1 “Green Goddess”.

Close to my sister’s home in Dorset is the Moors Valley Railway. Here the gauge is the same as the larger gauge on the BBSR namely 7 ¼”. I was able to spend some time with the works team looking at their maintenance equipment. Very jealous of their equipment and setup but too large to sneak into the overhead locker on the plane.  Oh well back to buckets and shovels for me BBSR at home.

 

Moors Valley Railway Engine Shed.
Moors Valley Railway Turntable
This is what we need for the BBSR Ballast Dept.

A common theme across heritage railways from what I have learned is problems accessing quality Welsh coal. Over the decades, steam engines have been using Welsh coal for its good burning qualities and engines have been tuned accordingly.  Alternate coal and coal substitutes each have their own issues and are not the best answer. It seems a pity in our rush to go green that the heritage railways could suffer for what must be a very small amount of coal that they use.

Well that’s the train bug out of the way so back to normal blogging next.

– Anthony

A new country – San Marino

We have been fortunate enough to visit over 100 countries during our travels and while we do not make a point of adding to that number,  when a relative whose total is in the high 90’s chooses to close on us by one, firm action needs to be taken.

Being in Tuscany, I realised that we were not too distant from San Marino.  One of five, what I would call, micro countries in mainland western Europe, the others being Andorra, Liechtenstein Vatican City and Monaco, has always been intriguing to me in being able to remain independent for hundreds of years including avoiding being absorbed during the unification of Italy in the 19th century and remaining neutral during WW2. 

The Republic of San Marino has a history dating back to the 4th century AD. It is believed that the first settlement was founded by Saint Marinus and other christians who were trying to escape religious persecution. Over the following centuries San Marino developed its own form of government based in part on the Roman model and by the 15th century AD was republic ruled by a Grand Council of 60. San Merino in part due its remote location and fortress mountain top was able to stay independant.  When Napoleon invaded Italy, he respected the independence of San Marino, in part it is believed that the republican form of government appealed to Napoleon due similarities with the direction that France had moved in. Napoleon also offered San Marino more territory, which they wisely declined.  The Congress of Vienna in 1815 at the end of the Napoleonic wars recognised San Marino’s independence.   During the 19th century unification of Italy, San Marino offered asylum to revolutionaries including Guiseppe Garibaldi.  After the initial unification of Italy took place, a series of treaties with Italy starting in 1862 confirmed San Marino’s independence.  I think that there must also have been an element of wise leadership over the centuries in maintaining independence.  Today, San Marino’s two leaders, the Captains Regent, are elected every six months by the Grand and General Council, the legislative body.  Unlike  some other countries where politicians seem to be in office for decades. 

As usual Anne has done the research and since we only have one night here has booked a hotel in the centre of town. As we cross the border I am struck by the size of Mt. Titano that forms the core of San Marino soaring some 2,424 ft / 739 m above sea level and towering above us. The road to the top twists and turns as we cling to the side of the mountain ever upwards, past full carparks, multitudes of pedestrians. Tourism is a big industry here and on one of the last warm days of the year, it seems everyone from the Rimini area has come to the mountain today.

After stealing the hotel owners’ parking spot, we only found out later as we checked in, we  take a walk between the three fortifications that sit atop Mt. Titano. I cannot go too close to the edge as it just seems to fall away. Heights are not my thing, but Anne gets some great photos not only of the castles but also views to the Adriatic sea and beyond. Quite amazing.

The Guaita Fortress, San Marino city.
Drinks below the Guaita fortress. Not all photos and blogs here.
Blowing huge bubbles in Piazza Della Libertà San Marino.
Looking south along the cliff in San Marino city.
Close to the edge, for me anyway, in San Marino city.
“Right a bit” or the Italian equivalent. The streets are narrow here.

As night falls we relocate the car to an empty parking spot as the day trippers leave.  Dinner and an early night follow.  We rise early to get the sunrise spots and find we have the place to ourselves. So different from the previous night. Sunrise was worth getting up for.

Rooftop view in San Marino city.
What a view.
Looking west at sunrise in San Marino.
Anyone for an outdoor job? Morning check on the cablecar cable from top to bottom.

We found in our morning walk an area dedicated to those who use touch as a primary sense. What a great idea and also centrally located on a square off the Via Eugippo next to the cable car station. Not just an afterthought in an out of the way location.

A tactile area for those who cannot visually see what is here
A tactile model of the peaks of San Marino city.
3D model of a San Marino castle.

I do not imagine we will return here but it was worth taking the time to visit San Marino.  Oh yes it is another UNESCO World Heritage site for us to add to the collection.

– Anthony 

Tuscany my beauty

As we walk through the archway of Rochester castle in Kent to hear the local proclamation of the accent to the throne of King Charles III, we are struck by the thought that for hundreds of years this was how locals would have learned about such an important event.  No TV, instagram internet messaging or other forms of modern instant communication were available.  It was nice to feel that we have been a small part of what will evolve over the coming week.

Proclamation of King Charles at Rochester castle, Kent

As someone in their 60’s who has only known of and had Queen Elizabeth II as their head of state in three countries Anthony has lived in, the feeling, as for many others I assume, is a mixture of sadness for the Royal families loss and our own loss of continuity in a world where so much changes so quickly in the 21st Century.  

While people in the UK and especially those in London will be more intimately involved with events leading up to the funeral on the 19th of September, we will be in Tuscany, exploring a part of Italy that has drawn us with its muted colours, fortified towns perched on hilltops looking down over olive groves and wheat fields.

We are off to Tuscany, well almost……Flight cancelled, without any fanfare the email arrived from EasyJet cancelling our flight from London Gatwick to Bologna two days hence.  The first step for us for a week long surjourn exploring the backroads of Tuscany.

In these days of low cost flights, there is no airline rebooking or making alternative arrangements on your behalf, they are long gone. Make your own new booking at no cost or get a refund are the options available. After a brief flirtation with rival Ryanair’s timetable, who have had the least percentage of cancellations over the summer, we decide that we will rebook with EasyJet to Milan and take a train to Bologna airport to collect our rental car.  Change as little as possible seems the best way forward.

Flying over the Alps into Milan


The only drawback, apart from the extra travel is the 3am alarm as our flight now leaves at 7am not 11am. The journey to Bologna airport sees us use a hire car, plane, two busses, express train and a monorail, quite a variety of forms of transportation all because of a cancellation.

The airport seems as full as I remember last month when we flew from Gatwick, full of holidaymakers, tourists and businesspeople.  The only change appears to be that all the tv advertising is showing a black and white image of the queen as a sign of respect.  Many of the shops also have signs of condolence, all of which must have been printed in double quick time. 

We now know that the cheapest way to Milan Central Railway station from Linate Airport is by Number 73 bus then number 60 bus.  All because we bought a couple of €2 tickets which were only for the local busses that run quite frequently compared with the dedicated “Airport Busses”.

Milano Centrale Railway Station is a marvel to behold, built in the 1930s in the era of  Mussolini, it displays a mixture of Art Déco and Art Nouveau styles. Approaching from the park opposite gives one a chance to see the grandeur of the structure from a distance, not possible in many other impressive big city railway stations.  Worth arriving a little early for your train to explore a little.  As we walked through the entrance it felt like I was entering a series of anti chambers in a Roman temple.

 

Milan train station

Inside Milan train station

Inside Milan train station

We finally made it happen – while we have been to Florence and Sienna before,  and seen most of the stunning historical marvels there, I had dreamed of spending time in deep rural Tuscany.  After the last couple months of being thoroughly spoilt by friends and family, it was time for us to retreat and get some quiet time. That is how we came to spend time in a cottage, a good 40’ from the nearest town of Volterra. 

Of all the places in Tuscany, how did we chose that part of Tuscany?  For its proximity to some villages I wanted to visit but also just as importantly we wanted the ability to enjoy the scenery in all its splendour and changing light and make our own meals in the evenings. 

Our AirBnB host had warned us many times prior to our arrival to make sure we stopped at supermarkets on the way to buy food as there was no store nearby.  She also mentioned that Italy was very coeliac aware which was a great surprise and she was not wrong.  The first counter as we enter the Coop has a huge sign “senza glutine” near gluten free pizza bases.  We stock up on all sorts of vegetables and meats for our pizza bases and everything we’d need for our stay. 

We arrive at our cottage just before dusk and the lighting is turning gloriously golden. Just like in the photos.  Anthony wastes no time and starts a fire in the outdoor pizza oven.  We hadn’t expected to start our Tuscan experience so soon!  The pizza turned out delicious.  And our second one a few days later of course was even better!

Fiew from our AirBnB when we arrived

Time to prepare the pizza oven

Our first gluten free wood fired pizza

Cheers!

The first thing that struck us while driving in Italy is the number of Formula 1 wannabes.   Nearly everyone drives as if the road is a one way system, going their way of course and every bend is cut to save time.  Having driven in Italy before, I was familiar with their driving style and was glad the hire car company had upgraded our car to a more powerful one as opposed to a physically larger one!  Small is good there, especially on narrow twisty roads.  We did laugh at the Italians’ total disregard for no parking (all around the airport roundabouts), no overtaking (on bends, hills or blind spots) and no speeding!! We think our riding in places like India got us prepared for the exciting situations we come across!

Coming from the sanctuary of our quiet cottage in the country, arriving in San Gimignamo to the throngs of tourists was a shock – maybe arriving after schools returned from their summer holiday, just one week later, would have been better.  

As you reach the town’s fortified walls and walk through the gate, you immediately feel wrapped in medieval times but also see what life was like in the 1700s, long after the town’s decline in importance but centuries before its regeneration and UNESCO acclaim.  San Gimignamo is famed for its cluster of towers.   The two Torri Salvucci are said to have been built to bypass the communal statutes of 1255 that limited towers to the height of the Posesta towers.  But to show their superiority and annoy their rivals, the Salvuccis supposedly built these whose combined height surpassed the Ardinghelli family’s Podesta tower.  

Plazza del Duomo, San Gimignamo

1340 bible

Marble cherub from 1475

An early lunch on an outside terrace meant that we were able to wonder and admire this town streets with fewer people.

Duomo San Gimignamo

Duomo San Gimignamo

Duomo San Gimignamo

One can easily spend a few days here, visiting all the towers and old palaces, Duomo and churches and museums.  

After San Gimignamo, we went to Pieve di Cellole also known as Santa Maria Assunta – a romanesque church dating back to the 11th century.  The parish buildings nearby were once used as a leprosarium but now house a monastery.  A wonderfully calm setting overlooking across the Tuscan countryside towards San Gimignamo.

Pieve di Santa Maria Assunto a Cellole

View from Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta

The nearest town to our litle country cottage was Volterra.  It sits atop a hill, surrounded by impressive ramparts.  It is not as well known as its neighbours San Gimignamo or Sienna, but with the Palazzo dei Priori, the oldest civic building in Tuscany dating back to the 13th century on the Piazza di Priori and its gorgeous narrow stone paved streets, an impressive Roman ampitheatre, it is well worth a visit.  It is now a thriving little town – there are very few shops selling touristy Tuscan linen and pottery unlike the other better known centres.  

From Volterra wall

Roman ampitheatre, Volterra

When the heavens opened up, we looked for somewhere for lunch.  We could not have picked a better place.  Porgi l’Altra Pancia is a tiny restaurant, that serves not only delicious home made Italian pasta, but now make their pasta upstairs so that they don’t contaminate the restaurant for their coeliac customers.  I had pici pasta for the first time – it is like a thick hand rolled spagetti, lovely and chewy.  

Time for lunch at Porgi l’altra Pancia

Pici with grated truffle

Volterra

Visiting the many villages in Tuscany, I was constantly reminded that we were in an earthquake prone part of the world.  How some of the houses were still standing and safe is truly remarkable!

House in Monteriggioni

Fixing walls in Monteriggioni

Castle of Monteriggioni

Colle di Val d’Elsa

Colle di Val d’Elsa

You have to embrace accidental photobombing!

The curvy cypress lined Tuscan country lanes were as photogenic as I imagined. Anthony was so patient with me, chasing one more photo, just one more country lane, before the next! We arrived a week after early plowing thanks to an unusually hot European summer so the fields were no longer golden. It would have been interesting seeing the ploughing: how they managed to do that on such steep hills had us baffled.

Tuscany near Volterra

Tuscany near Volterra

Tuscan countryside after ploughing is over

Pienza

On our way to our next country, (can you guess where?!) I chose some stunning parts of Tuscanny to drive through. Thank you Tuscany, you were beautiful!

– Anne